Prius (2001-03) :: ABS / Brake Light And Chime Came On - Hard To Stop
Jun 26, 2013
I just hit a pot hole this morning. Not too bad but instantly the abs/brake light and chime came on. Parked the car and turned it on and off to no avail. I drove home while the car was very hard to stop.
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2001 supercrew 4x4 all wheel disc brakes. Driver side brake is stopping harder than all the rest to the point that the pads will smoke if you do a hard stop
thought it was the caliper sticking. Replaced caliper and mount. Still same problem. Thought possibly there was air in the lines. Bled all 4 brakes several times. And still the driver front wheel still stopping harder than the rest. I wouldn't think it would be the master cylinder.
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My cousin got a 2007 Toyota Camry. Every time we did a oil change put 5 qt Synthetic ow-20, once he hit to 3000 mile on hard brake stop, the oil light is on, we check that has low oil level and oil change. came out 2 half qt oil.
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2001 01 1.8t... Hoping this isn't a bad ABS module. When I bought the car, I was told it was a bad wheel sensor in the drivers side. But, the funny part about this is its not on all the time, sometimes it doesn't even come on and the dash is normal.
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So i just bought my first car. I bought a 2003 prius from an auction. They sold it cheap because the brake light was on, and when driving it was hard to stop. There would also be a non-stop continuous whistling sound when the car was on. We took it to sears auto center, but they said that they could not fix the problem. They said that brake fluid was not going to the back brakes, so the front brakes were doing all the work. They said I should take it to a specialist.
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Recently I noticed that three LEDs in my 05 SantaFe's high mount stop light glow even without the brake applied. When the brake pedal is depressed, the entire light glows as it should. But only the three LEDs glow at all times.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Prius, that you have to push sooo hard to make it stop, the ABS and brake light are on and there is some aweful chime that is solid and doesn't go away (very high pitch), I just got the car, and got it like this. I think its signs of a BRAKE BOOSTER, but I have been unable to loacted that, I found the Master Cylinder, but looks like you have to remove the Hybrid engine to do... Is there a procedure for this...
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Could my brake issue be related to my transmission problem? Neither are constant. Brake problem= sometimes the brake pedal feels hard, like there's no power brakes (I drove a car once. ..looong time ago. .. that had no power brakes or steering) but it will kick in after a short distance. Transmission prob= seemingly unrelated, is a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This has happened maybe a 1/2 dozen times, the first time and mostly when in heavy commute traffic and when going between 1st and 2nd gear because of the slow commute speed, but also at other times when not in lengthy slow commutes. When it doesn't shift, the odometer doesn't work (shows only dashes) and an engine light comes on (the sprocket/gear looking one). Usually the transmission will eventually shift and the light goes off.
I read that the brake problem might be a vacuum hose problem? Something about a booster? Is this dangerous? or is it like having a car w/ no power brakes? Going to have my transmission looked at this week. Read on another site about dropping valve seats on this year car. If there's a major transmission problem, I'm wondering if it's worth fixing? I changed, timing belt, water pump, front and rears brakes, tires. 143,000 miles.
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2005 with 110K miles. Had oil change about 2K miles ago, tires rotated about 1K miles ago. I was at a stop light when I felt a little movement in the brake pedal and the lights all came on. Brakes continued to work, but somewhat harder to push the pedal. When first applying the brakes, there was a very slight wandering of the car, which was easy to correct.
I drove the car home and turned it off. About an hour later I started it and the problem was gone. I took it to an independent garage the next day. Their scan tool found C1357 -- decrease pressure solenoid fault -- but could not go further into sub codes. They recommended that I take it to dealer.
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When my 2001 Elantra is started, the door chime remains on and the red "door open" indicator remains lit on the dashboard. The chiming continues throughout my entire drive.
While the engine is running I am not able to lock the doors. When the engine is not running, I can lock the doors, but the inside red light on the door, on the driver's side only, stays lit.
I have checked all the fuses, do you know what I can do to either fix it or disable the chiming so I can drive more peacefully?
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My 2002 f350 diesel recently started acting up, the first sign was when my park brake light came on and the chime came on. I mucked around with a few things but still wont go away, while I was doing this a buddy noticed i had no brake lights at all and under further inspection no signals either, not even the clicking noise you usually hear also the cruise control has stopped working as well as the little screen mounted to the roof near the rear view mirror. I am fairly clueless with electrics (I don't even own a multi meter) but i do want to figure this out, i have noticed that fuse 20 was burnt and after replacing it it pops pretty much right when i push my foot on the breaks or signal.
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I first heard this on Car Talk on National Public Radio (sundays at 10, on the west coast). I heard the question but not the answer. Wife favored slow and hubby fast.
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I have been riding my motorcycle for the last few days and now I went to drive the 2001 Prius. Car started and ABS and BRAKE is lit and won't clear. The car ran fine last week and no issues. I did have a strut loosen on the front left and made a metal to metal clunking on bumps. I had a shop use an air tool to tighten the top of the strut. Drove for a week with out issues after this and then parked the car for a week.
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I noticed that the car take a very long time to come to a complete stop and I have to press the pedal hard to stop. The brakes have approximately 11,000 miles on them in city driving conditions. Also the slightest bit I relax my foot, the car begins to creek and move. I have to have a very firm foot on it so it won't move. Is it time for new brakes or should I first begin to look at other potential problems? Also I noticed the car pulls to right slightly could that be related?
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I was driving my trusty 2002 152K miles, and came into a very long and very slow traffic jam on the side of a mountain. After about two hours of mostly stop and very little go, my CEL light came on. I am also seeing the "general fault" symbol, but it should be noted that my PS symbol has been showing for about a year because my PS died and I just didn't fix it.
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I'm having a problem with my interior dome light and my door chime bell not working in my '01 F-250. I found that the bulb was blown,so I replaced it thinking it might fix the door chime bell also, thinking they were wired together from the factory.
The new bulb didn't fix the problem. I recall that when I noticed the door bell didn't ding-ding anymore was about the time(when it got dark), that I noticed the dome light was out also.
What I may check? The fuses all work, the interior dome relay switch works and I see nothing else in the owners manual to look for as far as dome lighting and door bell chime.
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I'm also having an issue with these lights/buzzer on my 2002 since last weekend. Probably about one in every five starts, the brake/ABS warning lights/buzzer come on for around five to ten seconds and then go off. Braking appears to be fine. I'm thinking the brake system is taking too long to pressurize on starting. The car has run fine and brakes have worked fine after this has happened. Brake fluid level is fine. Do these warning lights/buzzer usually stay on, with an issue, or is this intermittent lights upon starting how it normally shows a problem? And yes, I am going to see about finally ordering a mini VCI and also read the blink codes. Dealer is 50 miles from home so I'm trying to figure out what is going on prior to heading that way, as I don't want to have an issue on the drive there.
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2001 Prius, 182,000 miles... Master Warning Light and brake light came on.....
I took it to the local dealer and they did a diagnostic, and they pulled the codes P0300, P3125, P0301, P0302, P0420, P3006, P3016, P3017. They said I would need to replace the the hybrid battery, the inverter, the catalytic converter, and the spark plugs.
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This started out as an intermittent problem after I would run the a/c for a bit. Now it happens every time I get in the van regardless of if I turn on the a/c. The engine begins acting like I am pressing the gas pedal, but not flooring it. I have to press hard on the brake in order to get the vehicle to stop because it is trying to race ahead and I don't have to press the gas until around 45 mph. What in the world is going on with my van? If I throw it in neutral it just goes nuts. I have been pulling over, shutting off the van, waiting a few minutes, and then cranking up again. It could take a couple of minutes for it to start again or it will do it right away.
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I had the light and sound show pop up on the display of my 00 2.8 wagon this week. The ABS light, the brake light and occasionally the TC light combined with a big STOP in the display and Brake Failure.
I took it to my local and he did a quick scan and the ABS computer isn't communicating, indicating it's fried.
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Took '05, (package 5) to dealer for 70k maintenance yesterday for trip tomorrow. Got new tires, this, that, the other. On the way home the headlight leveler warning comes on, goes off, comes on, goes off.
Back to the dealer, he says it's just "it's time". I am driving 500 miles tomorrow for vacation. He says the headlights are properly aligned and it's probably just the sensor and I can have it fixed when I return because this won't be quick.
I don't know if I can tolerate that darn chime going off every 10 minutes for 1000 miles. Is there any way to turn off the volume of the chime?
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