Prius (2001-03) :: 2002 Stalls After Starting, Not Able To Accelerate
May 26, 2015
This evening, after not driving my car for a couple of days, I tried to start it and got the check engine light, triangle with exclamation point, and car symbol with exclamation point. It seemed to start, then shuddered and stalled. I was able to get it going by immediately putting it in drive and driving before it had a chance to stall. Then while driving, stepping on the accelerator did nothing- like no gas was getting through yet the car was still moving ahead. I quickly returned home and checked Prius Chat for advice.
I checked the throttle body, which was not stuck, but did see a tiny pool of oil in the bottom. I then started it in the driveway and the tiny pool of oil disappeared and it stayed running. I then took it out for another drive and it ran fine and accelerated normally.
All the warning lights are still on though, and I will try and get the codes read tomorrow or the next day.
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2001 Prius with 230,000 miles, replacement hybrid battery in January 2009 at 197,000 miles has recently been having mutliple electronic problems. Current status is:
o Disconnect the 12 v battery for one or two days.
o Re-connect the 12 v battery.
o Turn key and the ICE starts up and runs normally for about 20 seconds, but all warning lights are on: Red Triangle, PS, ! Car.
o ICE begins to shudder and shake as if it is attempting to engage something that won't turn.
o After about 15-20 seconds of shudder/shake the ICE dies and nothing will happen until I start over at disconnect of 12v battery.
I am guessing that the ICE is trying to engage the motor/generator that recharges the main battery, but it is stuck. Is that what is called "the inverter"?
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I have a 2002 Explorer with a 4.0 It has started stalling right after it starts. It will idle for 1-2 seconds and then stall. After it stalls, it will not start again. If you let it sit for about 15 mins, it will usually start. If you just bump the starter and let it idle and die a few times, it will start and the engine will race for about a few seconds and then come back down to an idle. It runs fine otherwise. There seems no rhyme or reason to it. Hot, cold, etc. I do notice that it smells like gas after it starts like an old carb engine does when it is flooded.
It shows a p1401 code but has since I have owned it the last two years. I unhooked the battery overnight and after that, it ran fine for about a week. I unhooked it again last night for about 30 min and had no luck. Maybe just a coincidence.
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Truck stalls out and cranks hard for 7-10 seconds before starting if I don't let it warm up adequately before I start driving. Transmission is hesitant to shift. Also, white smoke comes out exhaust if it's cold and I get in the throttle too much or if I hit 70+mph.
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I have a 2002 Santa Fe, 2.4, 2WD, stick shift with 125,000 miles on it. The problem started 9 months ago, when I was driving up-hill above 45 or 50 mph that continuous knocking noise came up from the rear-underneath the car, in order to stop it I had to reduce the speed, the problem has been there since then, but now is getting worse due to the noise comes up even driving on the street, when I'm gunning the car and shift to the next gear the noise comes up for 1 second, meanwhile I'm pressing the clutch pedal and then disappears, It's really weird because looks like it is related to the engine but the noise is in the rear.
I forgot to tell that the noise is not metallic, sounds like plastic or rubber, besides I already replaced the rear shock absorbers, inspected the exhaust to see any sign like touching the body of the car and checked all around the tires to see any sign of wear out and nothing, everything looks good.
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I've been having problems with my '02 Elantra. It shudders and doesn't accelerate well (or at all) going up hill, or attempting to accelerate quickly (like passing a car on the interstate). If I try to push it through these situations it will run worse, engine light flashes, and sometimes will stall. In the past, when it stalled, it would start up again in about 30mins or so.
Codes it has thrown were P0304, P0303, and P0420.
When I took it to mechanic, he really couldn't figure it out. He ended up testing and replacing fuel pump motor in November. Got it back and within a few days it was throwing same codes and having same symptoms.
Everything else from this point as been DIY. I bought a manual, researched these forums, learned as I went, and did the following myself:
I changed the spark plugs and wires. Still ran as described above but at this point when the engine light comes on, I am only down to the P0304 code right now.
Thought perhaps it was a vacuum leak. I have very few tools, and Autozone said I could use seafoam as a means to tell if I had a leak if smoke came out of vacuum lines as I put it in. I tried this, none came out of vacuum lines that I could tell. I drove it after seafoam, some white smoke came out tail pipe from solution but dissipated after driving a little while, and then I had the shuddering issues and loss of power while driving the interstate. It literally would act like I wasn't pressing the gas peddle, then suddenly surge as if it realized I was... engine continued to run until I pulled over and then it stalled. Normally it would start right back up after 30mins or so. But this time it didn't, I had to tow it home.
With a crap load of starter fluid and jamming the gas pedal, I finally got it to start. It ran horribly at idle, had a weird knock. So I didn't drive it and did the following instead.
I replaced the coil pack.
Replaced crank position sensor.
I confirmed that I have spark on all 4 cylinders.
There are no obvious oil leaks (nothing on garage floor and I don't see any obvious signs of wet oil on engine or smoke when it runs)
Temperature is fine, coolant level is normal & hasn't needed refill or topping off.
I pulled the fuel pump again, noticed that the fuel sock had holes and was full of muddy/pasty type crap. Gas was dark, cloudy in spots, and appeared to separate in some areas.
Replaced fuel sock.
Syphoned gas.
Thoroughly cleaned out gas tank.
Put premium gas in.
Manually cleaned fuel injectors.
Reassembled and it started right up, runs strong, no more weird knock, but the other symptoms start to reappear... the shuddering, loss of power, and stalling. Its intermittent... sometimes when I jam on the gas peddle, sometimes when I'm cruising at low speeds. I can force it to stall by jamming on the gas peddle to the floor, acts like it's choking, engine light flashes, lose power, then it stalls. Pretty much every time I push it like that.
I can continue to limp it to Autozone for codes, but the engine light currently isn't on.... and it usually takes it a hard drive pushing it through the symptoms for the light to appear, and it's always been the P0304 code at this point.
Is there anything else I can do from home with no special testing equipment?
Is there a part or sensor that would cause these symptoms and NOT throw a code other than the misfire?
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2002 Santa Fe has been misfiring for about a month...yesterday it got worse...When it's running hot and stopped at intersection it lurches forward.. It stalled when backing up after being parked. Mechanic did diagnostic test and it showed zero...He changed 2 wires to spark plugs..Spark plugs have only 20,000 miles and SUV has 68,000 miles.
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Just finished installing a new water pump on my 2002 Elantra GT when...
I went to start it, and it started for half a second and died. Further attempts to start were strained.
The battery is showing 12.58 volts on the multimeter so this was likely not the cause. I checked the fuses under the hood which all looked good. I don't know if it could be a relay or anything else electrical.
Other than the electrical side, there are two things I can think of that may be the cause.
First, being in a hurry to finish(which is probably the biggest mistake of all) I reconnected the battery too soon and wound up connecting the ground(I thought) wire to the alternator for a second causing an arc. I immediately removed the wire and followed proper procedures to reinstall it.
The only other thing I can think of is that one of the water pump bolts required removal of the idler pulley. The idler pulley demands the loosening of the timing belt tensioner in order to be reinstalled. Before removing anything I marked the position of the timing belt on the camshaft sprocket as well as the crankshaft sprocket so I'm really hoping I haven't lost timing.
Could it be something electrical? Did I over-tighten a belt or pulley? Is it timing?
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We've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.
The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.
Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.
Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.
What are the possible culprits? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, ignition module, spark plugs, and....... what else? (I'm not that familiar with what these engines have) And of the possibilities, what are the most likely causes.
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I have a Prius 1st gen and I just started having this problem yesterday. I started the car and the warning lights came on but the engine started. Then I put it into gear and the car stalled, engine shut down completely. Then I put it back into park and the engine started up again. So I put it into drive again and the engine shut down again, put it back into park and the engine started up. So I turned off the car and waited several minutes, started the car and put it into drive gear and was able to drive it to a mechanic. He said they couldn't get a code reading on it.
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I have a 2002 Prius that doesn't start properly, It takes about 3-10 tries, put key in , try and start, pull key out, repeat.
Brake pumps are working, 12 volt battery is 6 months old and has voltage. This behavior is only at after sitting all night, not during the day. Car has about 200k miles on it. No codes.
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2003 Prius starts then stalls (shudders bad) then starts right after with no problem.
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So I bought this car about 2 years ago and the last couple weeks it's had trouble starting and will sometimes stall out when your about to accelerate (from a stop sign) the mechanic I go to replaced the a couple relays under the drivers side dash, however I it hasn't made it better it actually made it worse as now it won't start at all the last 2 days. It rolls over and tries to start just doesn't. Its my only car and I already missed a week of work for it ( I commute ). I believe the relays where the ECM is what he said number 249 I believe.
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My 2001 Prius (230,000 miles) is unusable. I can clear the codes. The engine will start up fine. After a few seconds it starts bucking and jerking as if the engine is trying to engage something that won't turn and finally stalls. It is similar to a manual transmission car's action if you fail to push the clutch in when you stop the car. What the engine is trying to engage? I don't have any scanner to read the codes.
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I read the forums and found nothing quite like mine.
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2004 Nissan sentra 36,000 miles, stalls when it rains after I stop for a red light or a STOP sign. While pumping the gas, I have to wait a minute or more before it accelerates and moves. It is an automatic. I had a mechanic check the spark plugs and sensor codes. All checked out okay. Car drives fine in dry weather, no stalling. Bought used from out of town.Mechanic told me to bring it in when it rains. But that's not safe, because it will stall. Could moisture, humidity, or air pressure affect sensors?
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Looking at a 2003 Prius with 77K miles. Turn the key, the engine starts, runs smooth for about 5-7 seconds. After that it starts to run rough and rattle, then shuts off. The only code I pulled was P3191. I pulled off the air cleaner to clean the throttle body, and noticed a small pool of oil in the bottom of the intake manifold. Is that normal, or could that be causing the code issue? BTW, I cleaned the MAF and throttle body, and the engine still does the same thing.
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I have a 92 Ford Thunderbird and it stalls every time I accelerate from a stop. I am a single parent and extremely low on funds. I don't have a mechanic that I trust so I don't know where to turn. How much do you think it would cost to repair? I also struggle when I don't have a car. There is no public transportation close to where I live.
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A few months back, I posted a problem with my '01 prius: engine knocking for @30 sec when first starting up. Does NOT happen on first start of day, only on subsequent ones. Random misfires not corrected by changing coils/plug. It's been in the shop for awhile, and no diagnosis. I'm ready to sell the thing, unless there is a quick fix. New hybrid battery 20# miles ago; used transaxle 10# miles ago (with 1.5 yrs left on 2 yr warranty); new tires 10 miles ago. Has 185,000 miles.
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Ok here is the back story over the last couple months with this late build 04 6.0 with 230,xxx miles. I had problems with it losing oil pressure at idle, which lead me to replace the hpop. After that repair the truck still wouldn't run right so i had it taken to my local shop for some diagnostics. They fixed a few electrical issues and got it running, also telling my I had 2 injectors on the way out. Due to expenses I replaced only the 2 injectors in my driveway. A few days later the ipr screen got plugged and failed. Replaced that, and changed the oil, and it ran for a week.
Now for this weeks problems. Yesterday the truck lost all power and stalled out on my wife. She pulled the codes while I was at work and this is what was listed
P0404-60===
Code: P0404 - EGR valve position control performance or range fault
P0405-60===
Code: P0405 - EGR Sensor A Circuit Low
P1335-60===
Code: P1335 - EGR Position Sensor Minimum Stop Performance
P2290-60===
Code: P2290 - ICP Too Low
Using forscan she forced the IPR 80% open and the truck would start but as soon as you try to accelerate it stalls out. Today i got the truck to start the same way. While idling the IPR was at 44% and I had about 870 psi at the icp. As soon as i would throttle up the icp would drop to around 400.
The hpop i put in a couple months ago is covered under a 1 year warranty and that's what I am leaning towards because of the plugged ipr last week. I waned to see what the great minds hear thought as well.
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My car alarm goes off, or at least it tries to, when I open the car in the morning. Then every time I try and start the car, it seems to delay starting. IE. I put key in and it struggles to turn on, and lights dim.
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