Prius (2001-03) :: 2002 - Getting Code P03120?
Oct 28, 2010
I've got a shop in Az. One of my customers has an 02 with 489,000 miles. The problem is when you drive it about 5-10 miles the "red temp" light comes on then it starts to lose power. Pull over and shut it off for about a minute or two then it runs fine for another 5-10 miles. took it to dealer today and they said it needs a trans axle.
My question is why would it need a trans if it runs good until the "red temp" light comes on? Could it be just a sensor? What has gone bad?
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I picked up a 2002 Prius with 164k, still on original battery. It giving code P3030 which evidently relates to a high voltage line snapped on the bus bar.
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I just purchased a 2002 Prius from a government auction. The car had to be jump started at the auction yard. It ran for awhile and then died before I could put it on the dolly. I jumped it again, load it and towed it home. When I got home I jumped it and drove it off. I tried to charge the 12V battery on a 2 amp current, but it wouldn't charge so I replaced it with a new battery. Now the car won't start at all. Don't worry, I did not reverse polarity at anytime. Here's what is happening now....
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CEL, Triangle Displayed for the second time, Engine goes to READY, ICE starts and shuts down when I assume adequate charging is reached. However, OBD2 code thrown is P1636. Drives very well from what I can tell. But she just reported the CEL & Triangle went on again and she feels it is driving rough, like it is struggling.
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I own a 2001 prius and work on a lot of toyota . I am looking at friend's 02 prius that he got with a bad inverter . To make a long story short I checked the codes before we started and got code 3025 which can translate to a bad inverter if I am correct. The inverter pump was bad so we changed it and flushed the used inverter after we put it in. The "new" inverter seems to be working ,but we still have a major problem with the transmission I believe. The car will move , but it shudders very bad when you put it into drive and reverse both.
It appears like the engine is turning over with the transmission ,when the engine is hot and shut down and running on battery only. Yes the check engine light came on ,but have not had time to pull them yet.I know ,I know .its hard to give me info with no codes. The big question was ,is it possible for the engine to rotate when you drive the car in battery mode? It sounds like the engine is actually rotating and the engine will also rock back and forth with the car driving real slow. I know this will end up needing a transmission.
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My 2002 Prius died the other day. Getting DTC P3125 when I ran it through my scanner, but I don't have an advanced enough one to get the sub-codes. It's got 215,000 Miles on it, so I would expect something major to be happening at this point.
Here's a detailed description of what happened --- I was driving down the freeway the other day and started noticing my car was sputtering a little bit and losing a slight amount of power. I pulled over to a restaurant to say hi to a friend; when I came back out I started the car and the check engine and battery lights came on. About 10 more miles down the freeway the car started heavily limping and barely was able to get me off the freeway, then the car completely died. When I would start it back up it would die in about 5 to 10 seconds. The 12v auxiliary battery, not the main hybrid battery, had completely died.
I figured it might have been just a dead old battery that needed replacement so I put in another new one. It ran amazingly for about five minutes around the parking lot, then the same thing happened again. It completely died just like before.
The 12v battery isn't getting re-supplied with the juice it needs. Something's wrong in there.
The either the inverter is shot, it's just overheating due to a faulty coolant pump, or the MG2 generator isn't putting juice back into the 12v system.
I checked the fluid reservoir. It looks like it's flowing, but there is a few bubbles floating to the top of the fluid. Is that normal?
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Pulling into parking lot and the triangle and exclamation light appear on dash. Drive about an additional hundred feet with what felt like lower power and no noises.
- Check 12V after about an hour and it reads 12.4 volts.
- Read codes and get P3125 sub code 325.
- Temperatures and HV battery numbers all looked good.
- Clear codes and immediately code comes back with no start, nothing. Did this many times.
This code and sub code lead to the inverter failing. Being that there was no noise as a MG2 stator failure this also leads to an inverter failure right as the MG1 motor starts the engine? Inverter pump still running good as it was recently replaced along with ATX fluid. Within the last two weeks two HV modules have been replaced.
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Suddenly today, I get a "Check Engine" light while driving. Scangauge II says it's a P1430 error. I found two different suggestions, but where these are located on the car.
P1430-Electric Air Pump secondary Failure
P1430 -Vacuum Sensor for Adsorber and Catalyst System Circuit Malfunction
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My brother and father just finished with all of the small issues after throwing in both a "new" engine into the vehicle and a transmission..both have around 80K miles (chassis has around 180K). There were some issues with codes after both were installed, but then everything was diagnosed and fixed, vehicles codes were gone and vehicle was able to be registered, afterall.
Anyways, now the car threw a P0715 code and has issues with shifting. It appears that the Santa Fe is stuck in a single gear (appears to be a higher gear). The car won't shift properly, especially noticed at higher speeds in a main road. Using tiptronic does not seem to make a difference. After the car sits and is taken around the neighborhood, it seems to drive fine, until it is taken out into a main road...I'm guessing once it heats up?
So, what should be looked into? A sensor? Is it maybe because this "new" used trans was swapped in and all of the trans fluid was replaced with new fluid? What could the issue be? I guesss the car's been a headache but they're trying to get it finished to avoid any further codes/issues.
02' Santa Fe 2.7 FWD
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So my wife was driving our 2002 santa fe 2.7L and it shutdown. I went with the scanner and saw one code, P0340. I towed it home, changed the Crank Position sensor, which really sucked. I put it all back together and still no start. Same code.
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I recently took my car to the Hyundai dealer who told me that my engine light was from a bad cam sensor (Fault Code = P0340). I bought the sensor from the Hyundai parts dealer and replaced it myself. After having the code erased, the check engine light comes back on (with the same code) when I turn the car off and turn it back on, after driving it for a while (30 minutes or more).
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My 2002 v6 is throwing a cel that reads p0018. What the code description is? the general ob2 scanner mentions a coolant sensor issue but I did some research and i saw where it is a timing sensor for the newer hyundais.
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I have a 2002 Santa Fe 4 cyl that is giving me a problem that I could use some advice on tracking down & fixing . First & most important is a code P0302 # 2 Cyl misfire. How to check the ignition coil pack , injector ,& wire for this cylinder in home garage with normal tools & meter . Is there a you tube displaying how to do this step by step ?
The other problem which I don't have the code for at this time is that some part of the exhaust is not getting warm enough & this also put's the check engine light on . Will get back on this one when I solve the main problem Misfire.
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I have a 2002 Prius with 70,000 miles on it. The car broker replaced one cell which lasted about 15oo miles.
Code P3022 tells me I need a replacement battery.
The internet tells me Gen 2 and 3 cells are better than Gen 1.
Luscious Garage says don't buy a rebuilt battery with old cells, buy a new one.
Toyota tells me they only sell batteries with rebuilt old cells from Gen 2.
One person told me he would sell me a brand new Gen 1 battery with Gen 1 cells manufactured by Toyota. Does this sound right? or rebuild Gen 1 Batteries with NEW Gen 2 or 3 cells?
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My 2002 Prius recently had an episode where the SOC went down to 25%, and then went all the way to 100%. This seemed to be triggered by being stuck in traffic in about 80º F weather with the A/C on. When SOC was at 25%, there was no response for about a 1/2 second or so when hitting the accelerator, and then the ICE would kick in, lurching the car forward. This seems to indicate that there wasn't enough juice to turn over the electric motor, yet there was never any turtle or any other warning light. The low SOC lasted until I was moving steadily, at which point it went up to 100% It stayed there for maybe another 40-50 miles of driving and finally settled back down to the normal fluctuations of 50% and 75%.
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My 2002 Toyota Prius keeps dying (triangle of death and OBD Code 3191) after running smoothly for a few seconds each time I start the engine. Clearing the DTC code allows restart. But the check engine light and triangle of death keep returning after a few seconds.
It has been doing all this since I recharged the 12V battery (which had been drained completely by a dome light left on for 3 days). Initial attempts to recharge the 12V battery were causing current spikes at charger, and (relay?) clicking sound under the hood. So I disconnected positive battery cable and charged the battery in isolation, then reconnected it to the vehicle after charging was complete.
When I reconnected the recharged 12V battery the vehicle (honking horn) alarm went off. But that stopped when I unlocked door with key. It may not be related, but I'm also hearing a fan-like sound (under driver seat) when ignition key is in run position. I don't recall hearing that sound in the past.
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I bought an 01 Prius with 148k miles. It had code P3125 which mean bad inverter. I replaced the inverter with one from a junk yard with 81k miles. As soon as I was done the car started right up, and I didnt get electrocuted!
Right after the car started I got codes P3115 P3001 and P 3191. I cleared them out and turned off the car for a min.
When I started the car again I got codes P3030 and P3001.
This car has an extensive service history, It has a new Cat and exhaust, a new accessory and HV traction battery that are less than 8 months old. Crank position sensor is new. fuel tank is new.
What could be causing the P3030 and the P3001?
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On my way home in stop and go traffic the whole dash lit up with about 4 miles to go. Car was running as normal so I immediately thought inverter pump so got home and checked for circulation and there was good circulation. Pulled code with my obdII scanner and code P3130 came up. Cleared codes to restart and check circulation of fluid to verify and there was NO CIRCULATION. So, went and ordered the Toyota part #G9020-47022. Is there something else I should check before just changing the pump like a relay or electrical? Is there another place to get the coolant as the dealer has it at $32 gallon which is crazy. Then, if I do end up changing out the pump which I am almost sure I will have to which is a good way to burp the system as I have read this can be an issue. Does all the fluid (parts guy says two gallons) need to be changed out or just what spills out.
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what is that?
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keep on getting this error code....I think I have exhaust leak , Would that trigger this code ?....is an Exhaust leak is considered a Vacuum leak??
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I'm getting low gas mileage (34mpg) on my 2002 Prius. I just changed the hybrid battery with Gen 2 cells. What can the reason for this be? spark plugs? mass air flow sensor?
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