Prius (2001-03) :: 2002 Gen I Sputter And Completely Died - Code P3125
Feb 1, 2012
My 2002 Prius died the other day. Getting DTC P3125 when I ran it through my scanner, but I don't have an advanced enough one to get the sub-codes. It's got 215,000 Miles on it, so I would expect something major to be happening at this point.
Here's a detailed description of what happened --- I was driving down the freeway the other day and started noticing my car was sputtering a little bit and losing a slight amount of power. I pulled over to a restaurant to say hi to a friend; when I came back out I started the car and the check engine and battery lights came on. About 10 more miles down the freeway the car started heavily limping and barely was able to get me off the freeway, then the car completely died. When I would start it back up it would die in about 5 to 10 seconds. The 12v auxiliary battery, not the main hybrid battery, had completely died.
I figured it might have been just a dead old battery that needed replacement so I put in another new one. It ran amazingly for about five minutes around the parking lot, then the same thing happened again. It completely died just like before.
The 12v battery isn't getting re-supplied with the juice it needs. Something's wrong in there.
The either the inverter is shot, it's just overheating due to a faulty coolant pump, or the MG2 generator isn't putting juice back into the 12v system.
I checked the fluid reservoir. It looks like it's flowing, but there is a few bubbles floating to the top of the fluid. Is that normal?
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
Pulling into parking lot and the triangle and exclamation light appear on dash. Drive about an additional hundred feet with what felt like lower power and no noises.
- Check 12V after about an hour and it reads 12.4 volts.
- Read codes and get P3125 sub code 325.
- Temperatures and HV battery numbers all looked good.
- Clear codes and immediately code comes back with no start, nothing. Did this many times.
This code and sub code lead to the inverter failing. Being that there was no noise as a MG2 stator failure this also leads to an inverter failure right as the MG1 motor starts the engine? Inverter pump still running good as it was recently replaced along with ATX fluid. Within the last two weeks two HV modules have been replaced.
View 18 Replies
I bought an 01 Prius with 148k miles. It had code P3125 which mean bad inverter. I replaced the inverter with one from a junk yard with 81k miles. As soon as I was done the car started right up, and I didnt get electrocuted!
Right after the car started I got codes P3115 P3001 and P 3191. I cleared them out and turned off the car for a min.
When I started the car again I got codes P3030 and P3001.
This car has an extensive service history, It has a new Cat and exhaust, a new accessory and HV traction battery that are less than 8 months old. Crank position sensor is new. fuel tank is new.
What could be causing the P3030 and the P3001?
View 19 Replies
My Wife was driving our 2001 Prius and got the big triangle and the car went into limp mode.
The Codes were P3100 (info code 196) and P3125 (info code 325)
P3100/196 = Internal Error - Generator CPU Malfunction
3125/325 - Inverter Internal Short. - Generator Inverter Fin - Inverter Internal short
Clear the codes and the car runs fine, but the problem will eventually resurface.
The dealer wanted tor replace both the converter/inverter and HV ECU.
I purchased replacement converter/inverter from Ebay and inverter coolant pump (new) and installed.
Problem eventually resurfaced. I purchased replacement HV ECU from ebay and installed.
Engine would not start (does not attempt to even turn over), but was not throwing any codes. I had this same symptom with a third HV ECU as well. The part numbers on the HV ECU were exact matches.
View 11 Replies
Working on a 2002 prius with 153k miles. bought it with a "Bad transmission" diagnosed by toyota dealer. Got I home and did a quick check but there were no codes. I drove it about 50 feet into my garage where it would shudder badly while being driven which from my experience sounds like a bad MG2 motor. Drained the oil and thought hhmmm th oil does not smell bad and neither did it look burned. Proceeded to pull the mg2 but found it looked brand new, no burned spots or any such thing. SO I put it back together and think its a bad invertor. put on a different invertor that I have lying in my garage that I "think" is good and start the car. get code p3125 and p3120 and still have the bad shuddering when i try to drive it..Is there any way to test it further before I pull the trans and put a new trans back in?
View 19 Replies
I picked up a 2003 that had a bad AUX battery and P3130 code. Just FYI, aside from the battery it drives fine. Kicks the Warning light after about 15 miles but since the battery was bad it kept getting reset. Replaced the battery with a nice optima conversion.
Took out the inverter coolant pump, tested the circuit (good), tested the pump (bad). Replaced with a new one from dealer. Set up the bleeder tubes and massaged the lines till the new pump stopped SCREAMING at me. Added probably 2 qts of TLLC total. Bleeder tubes never had enough pressure to push fluid back up to reservoir but got solid 2 inches of fluid with no bubbles. Topped of the coolant. Went for a drive around the block, made it halfway (about 28mph) before the light kicked in and the motor seemed to bog down. Limped back home and read the 3125 Code. Code reader does not give me sub codes.
2003 Prius 154K miles on ODO.
View 3 Replies
2002... 184,000+ miles
I was driving the car and triangle popped up and engine would not shut off while parked (key on) I hooked up the non prius aware scanner (carry one with me at all times) and don't remember the code, but it was a "HV malfunction".
I didn't shut the car off to clear the code as I was not home and attempted to drive it home, meanwhile engine never shut off. I had to come to a complete stop at a red light and the car died. tried restarting it but nothing. so I pushed it off to the side of the road and cleared the code. Tried again and nothing. didn't start, nothing. it beeped and error code popped up. Checked the code and it was p3125.
I know there are subcodes but online it was leading to inverter. but I replaced the inverter last year with a re involt. I had the car towed to my job for $50, to have it towed home, would cost roughly $168. When I got it to work, I did the screen thing and checked the 12v battery and it was reading 10.9 I have been meaning to get a new one for about a year now so I did.
I purchased a new optima battery and installed it yesterday, cleared the codes, tried to start it and nothing. error code p3125. What leads me to believe that it may be a transaxle, well actually a Mg2 is when my inverter went bad, it would start then shudder and die then the triangle would pop up. this time around, it doesn't even start. I have an appointment with the dealership to get the code with subcode read on Tuesday 10/15 for $98.7.
View 7 Replies
Car stalled and ran on battery only. Set code P3125, and depleted aux battery. So, I replaced the inverter and recharged aux battery.
Drove it 20-30 miles test driving it, when the MIL came on.
Drove home and found 2 codes set, 1st was set while driving, 2nd was set after parking.
P3000/123 - MPH=22 MG2.RPM=1280 SOC=65% Position=D
P3125/287 - MPH=1 SOC=60% Position=P
Any TSB on this issue?
View 8 Replies
I bought my Prius after I tested the car around town and on the highway and went smoothly. I drove the car about 200 km after the warning came on board, high temperature and cold engine warning (red and blue). Stopped the car and I found nothing to be hot (engine or inverter).
I rebooted and the errors disappeared but reappeared and on the highway (120 km) car no longer accelerate, pedal did not respond.Stopped and restarted repeatedly trying to get as close to home and a Toyota service. High and low temperature have appeared and disappeared after stopped and restarted. Warnings appear together, none or only one of them.
But after 600 km appeared turtle on board and the car stopped. I was unable to start. They came from Toyota and were able to start with another auxiliary battery and ran 10 km with a tester on the dashboard (at full throttle and the car accelerated 1 km / sec until it reached 60 km / h then accelerated normal to 125km/h. When he put the foot on brake and after that tried to accelerate again the pedal was non responsive and the car stopped again and they towed it.
Next day they told me that the ECU is faulty (the one located behind the glove compartment) together with the Auxiliary Battery.(1100 Euro ECU).They told me that the temperature sensor is 200 degrees Celsius with a cold engine.
We towed the car to another service closer to home (1300 km) and asked a second opinion telling me that is defective inverter. I decided to buy an ECU. (220 Euro/ second hand)
Meanwhile my traction battery died after they tried to start the car many times.
After I charged the traction battery (one module at a time), whole battery shown after charging 301 V.
Now I have the following :
P3120 HV transaxle / Wire harness
INF. Code 249 (Open or +B short in motor temperature sensor)
View 19 Replies
We purchased a used 2002 Prius from our brother-in-law's family and we're the third owners. The car has around 80K and we've owned it for about a month and a half. Before we picked the car up they took it to a dealer and checked it out. They put a new aux battery in the trunk, changed the oil and gave it the green light. We picked it up in Philadelphia and drove it home to Chicago.
Today my wife was returning from a trip down to Missouri. After a stop for gas and refreshments and just getting back on the interstate the car started to die. The warning lights came on and the battery indicator as well as the red triangle. After sitting a little while she was able to start it again but only made it to the next exit where it officially died and needed to be towed to a dealer just outside of St. Louis. It was 104 degrees out this afternoon and she did have the AC, radio and other necessities running during the trip but she had gone less than 100 miles today before it died.
It sucks to be 300 miles away (I'm home) from the car/dealer not really knowing what they'll find or say they found.
View 8 Replies
I bought my 2002 prius with 120000 miles. Last night it died with the main battery light and triangle of death on. I haven't taken it to a dealer to have the codes checked out you, but will do it soon. My daughter was driving it when it happened and said the car started shuttering and died. She was able to drive it a few feet at a time before it would die again. Does this sound like a HV battery problem? I will be digging into it tonight.
View 19 Replies
I've got a shop in Az. One of my customers has an 02 with 489,000 miles. The problem is when you drive it about 5-10 miles the "red temp" light comes on then it starts to lose power. Pull over and shut it off for about a minute or two then it runs fine for another 5-10 miles. took it to dealer today and they said it needs a trans axle.
My question is why would it need a trans if it runs good until the "red temp" light comes on? Could it be just a sensor? What has gone bad?
View 19 Replies
I picked up a 2002 Prius with 164k, still on original battery. It giving code P3030 which evidently relates to a high voltage line snapped on the bus bar.
View 4 Replies
I just purchased a 2002 Prius from a government auction. The car had to be jump started at the auction yard. It ran for awhile and then died before I could put it on the dolly. I jumped it again, load it and towed it home. When I got home I jumped it and drove it off. I tried to charge the 12V battery on a 2 amp current, but it wouldn't charge so I replaced it with a new battery. Now the car won't start at all. Don't worry, I did not reverse polarity at anytime. Here's what is happening now....
View 2 Replies
CEL, Triangle Displayed for the second time, Engine goes to READY, ICE starts and shuts down when I assume adequate charging is reached. However, OBD2 code thrown is P1636. Drives very well from what I can tell. But she just reported the CEL & Triangle went on again and she feels it is driving rough, like it is struggling.
View 19 Replies
I own a 2001 prius and work on a lot of toyota . I am looking at friend's 02 prius that he got with a bad inverter . To make a long story short I checked the codes before we started and got code 3025 which can translate to a bad inverter if I am correct. The inverter pump was bad so we changed it and flushed the used inverter after we put it in. The "new" inverter seems to be working ,but we still have a major problem with the transmission I believe. The car will move , but it shudders very bad when you put it into drive and reverse both.
It appears like the engine is turning over with the transmission ,when the engine is hot and shut down and running on battery only. Yes the check engine light came on ,but have not had time to pull them yet.I know ,I know .its hard to give me info with no codes. The big question was ,is it possible for the engine to rotate when you drive the car in battery mode? It sounds like the engine is actually rotating and the engine will also rock back and forth with the car driving real slow. I know this will end up needing a transmission.
View 14 Replies
Our 02 Elantra GT died and would not restart. When we tried jumping the battery, the car would not even attempt to turn over. What we did get was a noise from this part, which I cannot find labeled in any diagram that I've found, both in my owner manual and online.
02 elantra gt.jpg
View 7 Replies
Suddenly today, I get a "Check Engine" light while driving. Scangauge II says it's a P1430 error. I found two different suggestions, but where these are located on the car.
P1430-Electric Air Pump secondary Failure
P1430 -Vacuum Sensor for Adsorber and Catalyst System Circuit Malfunction
View 13 Replies
I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra 2.0 5spd manual GT with 90k miles. I just bought the car 2 weeks ago. The previous owner claims he did regular maintenance on it. He said the timing belt and water pump were done around 65k miles but didn't have paperwork on it. Has brand new tires. Battery is a year and a half old. I just replaced the spark plugs and plug wires a few days ago just because I don't know when the last time the previous owner changed them. 3/4 showed normal wear and were probably needing to be replaced. One of them (the one all the way to the drivers side) had a decent amount of corrosion built up in the wall leading down to the spark plug and then around the fitting for the 5/8 socket had quite a bit of corrosion around it to. The end of the plug looked like the rest of the plugs however. Before I installed the new plug I cleaned it up. As far as I know there isn't any other mechanical issues. He said he had the clutched replaced too. Which I find a little odd because it doesn't even have 100k miles on it yet and if it wasn't driven like a race car, that clutch should last a lot longer I would think.
My girlfriend was driving it home from work today and it died on her when she stopped at the off ramp of a freeway. I showed up and pushed the clutch pedal down as hard as I could and it fired right up. However, I walked away then she called me back because she couldn't get it to accelerate after that. Unfortunately I didn't actually try to drive it at that point which was stupid so it's possible she just didn't have it in gear all the way however it appeared that she did. It then shortly after died and hasn't started since. I'm getting power to everything else in the car including headlights and some lights and everything else I can think of. It won't even attempt to crank. It just does nothing when I try to turn it over.
I believe a few people recommended changing the crankshaft sensor. I have read that if the crankshaft sensor goes bad it will have the problem I am currently facing. At this point I'm assuming my girlfriend just didn't have it in gear and that's why it couldn't accelerate because if that wasn't the case, then that sounds to me like it's slipping and the clutch needs to be replaced. Anyways, other than the crankshaft sensor, I am thinking possibly the starter or alternator. I know it has a MAP instead of a MAF sensor and I know where it is but I'm not sure if that would cause this issue because I figured it would at least turn over. If it was the alternator if the batteries were dead I would charge them and if it died again that would be a strong indicator it was the alternator. But the batteries didn't really read low and I threw them on the charger anyways and it said it was fully charged shortly after I did that, and then I tried starting it again and still nothing. So right now I'm leaning towards the starter or this crankshaft sensor. My buddy said to take a screwdriver to the starter and try to jump it but how exactly to do that to test it. I have read multiple things online for other vehicles that the crankshaft sensor being bad will cause the car to not start.
View 6 Replies
My 2003 F250 started to sputter and died. Won't restart the rest of thw day. Go out next morning will start right up for about 1-2 min and dies like you shut thw key off. Won't restart. Cranks fine.
Oil pressure showing 1300lbs while cranking,ipr is 43% while cranking, but when koeo ipr is 97% which is weird. My excision shows 23% koeo.New oil,oem filters,fuel pressure is at 50 lbs while cranking. Seems electrical or something. Oil pump maybe but why 1300 lbs while cranking of that?
View 14 Replies
I have a 2003 F350 V10, was pulling out of the driveway earlier with no issue, then as soon as I went up the road my truck started to sputter and it died. Went to start and it just clicked and wouldn't turn over? I tried jump starting it which worked, but once the cables were off within a minute the truck would die. Got it back home and now the windows won't roll up but the radio works and the door locks work.
View 5 Replies
