Prius (2001-03) :: 2002 - Fixing Code P3030?
Jun 21, 2013
I picked up a 2002 Prius with 164k, still on original battery. It giving code P3030 which evidently relates to a high voltage line snapped on the bus bar.
View 4 RepliesI picked up a 2002 Prius with 164k, still on original battery. It giving code P3030 which evidently relates to a high voltage line snapped on the bus bar.
View 4 RepliesCould a bad transmission cause error code P3030 and P3009?
This car has no other symptoms other than the Mil light and the check engine light.
I read the forums and found nothing quite like mine.
View 8 Replieswe have a Prius from 2004.
We have had problems with the starter battery. This is because the car is so rarely driven. So to fix this I have charged the battery several times. But have not disconnected the battery cables before. I don't know if thats the reason why we have problems though. But you can suspect that.
One morning when we should drive the car we saw that the "check engine light" came up on the dashboard. And other warnings also.
I bought an OBD scanner and hooked it up. P3030..
So I took the hybrid battery out of the car and cleaned all poles and connections. I measured each battery cell to approx 7,6 V.
I also bought a new starter battery. Now, I have put all together again. But P3030 is still the case.
Is it possible to measure the voltages from the busbar module by measure on the contact to the ECU? I have tried that but don't get stable results. The voltages goes up and down all time..
My last hope is that a wire between battery busbar and ECU is broken. But I couldn't recognize that when I had the battery out of the car.
My 2002 camry 4cyl auto, jap built, with near 190k miles, check engine light just came on, P1135, has not replace any sensor since I own at 125k, 7 years ago, did noticed last 3 to 6 months, mileage drop to 25 or 26mpg average, used to be around 30+mpg, I thought it was change season for gasoline mix.
View 3 RepliesI've got a shop in Az. One of my customers has an 02 with 489,000 miles. The problem is when you drive it about 5-10 miles the "red temp" light comes on then it starts to lose power. Pull over and shut it off for about a minute or two then it runs fine for another 5-10 miles. took it to dealer today and they said it needs a trans axle.
My question is why would it need a trans if it runs good until the "red temp" light comes on? Could it be just a sensor? What has gone bad?
I just purchased a 2002 Prius from a government auction. The car had to be jump started at the auction yard. It ran for awhile and then died before I could put it on the dolly. I jumped it again, load it and towed it home. When I got home I jumped it and drove it off. I tried to charge the 12V battery on a 2 amp current, but it wouldn't charge so I replaced it with a new battery. Now the car won't start at all. Don't worry, I did not reverse polarity at anytime. Here's what is happening now....
View 2 RepliesCEL, Triangle Displayed for the second time, Engine goes to READY, ICE starts and shuts down when I assume adequate charging is reached. However, OBD2 code thrown is P1636. Drives very well from what I can tell. But she just reported the CEL & Triangle went on again and she feels it is driving rough, like it is struggling.
View 19 RepliesI own a 2001 prius and work on a lot of toyota . I am looking at friend's 02 prius that he got with a bad inverter . To make a long story short I checked the codes before we started and got code 3025 which can translate to a bad inverter if I am correct. The inverter pump was bad so we changed it and flushed the used inverter after we put it in. The "new" inverter seems to be working ,but we still have a major problem with the transmission I believe. The car will move , but it shudders very bad when you put it into drive and reverse both.
It appears like the engine is turning over with the transmission ,when the engine is hot and shut down and running on battery only. Yes the check engine light came on ,but have not had time to pull them yet.I know ,I know .its hard to give me info with no codes. The big question was ,is it possible for the engine to rotate when you drive the car in battery mode? It sounds like the engine is actually rotating and the engine will also rock back and forth with the car driving real slow. I know this will end up needing a transmission.
I recently purchased a 2001 Prius from a state fleet auction. The car has 121,000 miles and was in the non-running part of the auction. It had been sitting at least four months. I decided to give it a go since it looked to be in decent condition.
It did not start because of a dead 12v battery. I bought a replacement battery, but it still did not start. The screen showed ~ 1/8 hybrid battery. The warning lights illuminated and it was never ready. I plugged in my code scanner and a P3030 code came up.
I got it towed home and started working on it. The P3030 code signifies a high voltage line snapped .
My 2002 Prius died the other day. Getting DTC P3125 when I ran it through my scanner, but I don't have an advanced enough one to get the sub-codes. It's got 215,000 Miles on it, so I would expect something major to be happening at this point.
Here's a detailed description of what happened --- I was driving down the freeway the other day and started noticing my car was sputtering a little bit and losing a slight amount of power. I pulled over to a restaurant to say hi to a friend; when I came back out I started the car and the check engine and battery lights came on. About 10 more miles down the freeway the car started heavily limping and barely was able to get me off the freeway, then the car completely died. When I would start it back up it would die in about 5 to 10 seconds. The 12v auxiliary battery, not the main hybrid battery, had completely died.
I figured it might have been just a dead old battery that needed replacement so I put in another new one. It ran amazingly for about five minutes around the parking lot, then the same thing happened again. It completely died just like before.
The 12v battery isn't getting re-supplied with the juice it needs. Something's wrong in there.
The either the inverter is shot, it's just overheating due to a faulty coolant pump, or the MG2 generator isn't putting juice back into the 12v system.
I checked the fluid reservoir. It looks like it's flowing, but there is a few bubbles floating to the top of the fluid. Is that normal?
Pulling into parking lot and the triangle and exclamation light appear on dash. Drive about an additional hundred feet with what felt like lower power and no noises.
- Check 12V after about an hour and it reads 12.4 volts.
- Read codes and get P3125 sub code 325.
- Temperatures and HV battery numbers all looked good.
- Clear codes and immediately code comes back with no start, nothing. Did this many times.
This code and sub code lead to the inverter failing. Being that there was no noise as a MG2 stator failure this also leads to an inverter failure right as the MG1 motor starts the engine? Inverter pump still running good as it was recently replaced along with ATX fluid. Within the last two weeks two HV modules have been replaced.
Suddenly today, I get a "Check Engine" light while driving. Scangauge II says it's a P1430 error. I found two different suggestions, but where these are located on the car.
P1430-Electric Air Pump secondary Failure
P1430 -Vacuum Sensor for Adsorber and Catalyst System Circuit Malfunction
2001 Prius
I was able to pull codes this evening ( no subcodes).
The codes are as follows:
P3000, Battery Control System Malfunction
P3030, Battery Voltage Detective Line Snapped
Will the P3030 cause a P3000 to pop up since it appears I have one of the 19 voltage detect lines corroded or broken?
Once I fix this issue, is there a chance that the P3000 will disappear?
I was just getting the triangle and the Main Battery error on the MFD up until yesterday. Yesterday, the ! with the car came on (Hybrid system) on the MFD. I did not check any codes until today. Car will currently not start at all.
Aux battery voltage is confirmed to be 12.3 volts via the MFD in the diagnostic mode so it's good to go.
No one around has a scan tool that will also pull the subcodes.
I recently purchased a used, high mileage 2004 Infiniti G35x (AWD) 145K miles from a reputable new car dealer here in my town. The car was impeccably maintained and clean inside and out. Just a week or two after the purchase my SES light came on revealing engine Code: P0430 (catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 2) pointing to a new catalytic converter in my future. Infiniti recommends premium unleaded for this vehicle. I found out my son filled her up with mid-grade unleaded. Is there any chance this could have triggered the SES light to come on? (Previous owner states he always used premium unleaded in the vehicle since ownership.) I also double checked the gas cap to make sure it was on tight. I find it extremely odd that the SES light would come on so shortly after the purchase. I mean what are the odds? Don't dealers run a diagnostic scan of their trade-ins to check history and for potential problems prior to selling their used cars? I test drove this car numerous times without any indication of a problem and right on the heels of the purchase it passed state emissions... now just a few days later, the SES light comes on. Why wouldn't emissions pick that up? I have reset the SES light (code) and filled her up with premium unleaded. Now it's a waiting game to see if the light comes on again. If the light reappears, I plan on taking it back to the dealer to work out some kind of "reasonable solution" to repair costs. I'll find out just how willing he is to stand behind his cars. I realize that this is a high mileage car, and I hardly expect perfection, but I didn't see this coming. What to do... what to do... By the way, I checked all the fluid levels ... no discoloration in the oil (fresh, golden brown)... no discoloration in the coolant... transmission fluid, good... all other levels are good. Car runs fine, no rough idle in cold...
View 11 Replies2006 Subaru Forester X 2.5L AT non-turbo
I changed the oil and oil filter; replaced the air filter (Fram), and replaced the alternator and a/c belts. I also got a full tank of gas at Sam's Club, I was nearly empty. I've gotten gas plenty of times there, before.
Next day, the CEL comes on. It's a P0304 code. (Cruise control light is flashing, too.) Engine stumbles and runs rough when cold; idles fine when warm, runs OK, but not the same, when warm. CEL is steady, which is "not bad" but I can make it flash if I hit the accelerator while the engine is cold. Resetting the computer by disconnecting the hot battery terminal didn't work; CEL came on again two days later and symptoms remained.
I buy some MAF cleaner (CRC) and use it; MAF was pretty dirty on the upstream side, actually.
I'm going to change the plugs and wires (they need it, anyway) and I've ordered a new ignition coil, which I'll also switch out.
I've also ordered the gasket for the throttle body, which I'll take apart and clean once that comes in. Last step is to order replacement O2 sensors.
I'm 99% certain there's nothing wrong with the engine, in terms of rings, valves, pistons, etc. I think I'm covering all the bases in addressing this myself. I'm on a limited budget so I'm doing all the labor myself and ordering non-OEM parts on-line, after researching to make sure the parts have a good reputations, fit, etc. (Yes, that's all a big FU to Subaru service for being over-priced but besides being relatively poor I also enjoy doing this stuff.)
I have been getting a code 18 which is a loss of tach signal. I have checked the distributor and the module and they are both good. Where do I start next?
View 2 Repliesis my Toyota camry going to stall cause it has po401 code and I think it has an muffler or exaust leak can the cause po401 code.
View 3 RepliesMy Touareg (2007) was running great until this morning when the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) came on. Checked with a mechanic who got a reading of PO306 which he explained was the #6 cylinder problem. All VW dealers are closed for service by now but I must drive back to work in St Louis tomorrow? Is it OK for me to drive with that MIL on?
View 7 Replies I'm using an innova 3100/abs tester and that's the code it throws back. The company is zero support, claiming it is an internal Dodge code that they have no info for.
The code is : 50FE
Is that any use to me, or did I buy this tester for nothing..?
Check engine light just came on. I scanned the car and the code PO704 came up.
"Clutch switch input circuit malfunction."
If I replace my clutch switch, will this solve the problem? I got the part number #1jo 927 189f i just want to make sure its that switch that's bad.