Prius (2001-03) :: 2002 - Engine Won't Start?
May 14, 2012
I own a used 2002 Prius and have only been driving it for about two months. In the last week it has given me some trouble on start up. I turn the key, but the engine will not start. Unlike some of the other comments I've seen here, I'm not getting any warning messages when my car won't start. I turn the key and the dash lights either come on half lit or not at all, the computer screen doesn't light at all when this happens. If I hold the key in the start position for a few (up to twenty seconds) it will eventually turn over and start, but that seems to be draining the big battery and doesn't seem like the best way to start the car. This happens about 2 out of every three times I go to start the car and it doesn't seem to matter how long I've had it parked - could be an hour or overnight. Conversely, it could be sitting for a day and a half and start without issue. All in all, there seems to be no obvious condition that would cause this, and I was curious to know what I should troubleshoot and in what order. As with many people these days, money is scarce and I don't have the money or time to keep it in the shop for a week for diagnostics, especially when it might be something I can easily fix on my own.
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I was at Walmart today and FINALLY remembered to get a couple keys made for my 02 prius. I have been taking somewhat of a gamble considering I only got 1 key when I bought it.
I tried the keys in the trunk. Cha Ching! Unlocked and locked the doors. Cha Ching! Put the key in the ignition and turned it. Cha Ching! Went to start the car and Nothing!!
I could turn the car into accessory and into the run position, but it would not put the car in ready mode. At first, I thought my battery died. I took a deep breath and put the "Toyota" key in and she started right up...
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2002 2.7L. Engine seized. Bought a replacement also from a 2002. Tried to start today and no spark. I just replaced the physically broken crank position sensor. That seemed like it would be an obvious and easy fix, but still no spark. The broken sensor had frayed/shorted wires. Could that have damaged the PCM /ECU? There is a 2003 Santa Fe at U-Pull-It that was running when it came in. Will the PCM from that work? I am running out of time. I have to have this running before I leave on a flight tomorrow night. I do have a code reader (if I can find it) but I can't imaging it would have any codes if it hasn't started since I had the battery out. Not sure how that works.
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My Prius is in better condition than when I started, the following condition remains a mystery.
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I pulled the traction battery...remanned it with great success computer very happy with results... drove it for a week. Took it to Walmart to have oil changed... Got in car , started fine...new oil made motor even smoother....then in 200 yards at traffic light , motor died with unusual sound... pulled over and restarted...but would die. Lights all over dash on.
made it back to oil bay...engine would not restart.
pushed inside and would start and then die... then was rattling when dying
checked aux battery with testers , both indicated dead cell 10.25 volts
tried to substitute a new battery via heavy jumpers... got it to start then die..,..then no try at all
I have read forums ,,,that indicate after 3 tries on a dead aux battery , computer will immobilize it
Have tried replacing with a new lawn tractor battery .but seems the car is immobized . Read codes with Mini VCI, and was able to clear all codes but the immobilizer code.
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I just purchased a 2002 Prius from a government auction. The car had to be jump started at the auction yard. It ran for awhile and then died before I could put it on the dolly. I jumped it again, load it and towed it home. When I got home I jumped it and drove it off. I tried to charge the 12V battery on a 2 amp current, but it wouldn't charge so I replaced it with a new battery. Now the car won't start at all. Don't worry, I did not reverse polarity at anytime. Here's what is happening now....
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I'm not so sure what is the problem because when the ac light flashing and I'm closing the ac switch and turn it back on the ac start to cool again but start flashing after few min.
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Pulling into parking lot and the triangle and exclamation light appear on dash. Drive about an additional hundred feet with what felt like lower power and no noises.
- Check 12V after about an hour and it reads 12.4 volts.
- Read codes and get P3125 sub code 325.
- Temperatures and HV battery numbers all looked good.
- Clear codes and immediately code comes back with no start, nothing. Did this many times.
This code and sub code lead to the inverter failing. Being that there was no noise as a MG2 stator failure this also leads to an inverter failure right as the MG1 motor starts the engine? Inverter pump still running good as it was recently replaced along with ATX fluid. Within the last two weeks two HV modules have been replaced.
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I have had a 2002 Prius since December of 2012, and it has been running fine since I got it; while it was in a wreck in May 2013 that has rendered both passenger-side doors and windows unusable, I have not seen that incident cause any other problems, and the car still runs perfectly fine. I am supposed to be driving from my current home state for a job soon, but about a week ago while I was driving on the interstate, the check engine light started flashing.
I was changing lanes and putting a good bit of pressure on the gas in order to pass someone that was going below the speed limit, putting my speed at around 80 mph when the check engine light started flashing. I started getting off of the interstate to find a place to stop and inspect things, but the light stopped flashing when I got down to around 45 mph on the exit ramp, and I was able to drive the rest of the way on the interstate without any trouble, even when I got in the 75 mph range again. The span of time between the light starting to flash and turning off again was probably about a minute or so.
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Suddenly today, I get a "Check Engine" light while driving. Scangauge II says it's a P1430 error. I found two different suggestions, but where these are located on the car.
P1430-Electric Air Pump secondary Failure
P1430 -Vacuum Sensor for Adsorber and Catalyst System Circuit Malfunction
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I was driving my trusty 2002 152K miles, and came into a very long and very slow traffic jam on the side of a mountain. After about two hours of mostly stop and very little go, my CEL light came on. I am also seeing the "general fault" symbol, but it should be noted that my PS symbol has been showing for about a year because my PS died and I just didn't fix it.
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I have a 2002 prius with 143,000 miles. On Friday, I went to start my car and put it in gear and the check engine light came on and the "triangle of death" lit up and car died. I turned it off and waited about 30 seconds and tried starting it again. It started and I drove 1/2mile home. Went into the garage and got the Actron/OBDII code reader. Pulled the code P3125 which when I googled it, it was referring to the inverter. I cleared the code and all was well.
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I bought a 2001 Prius, partially disassembled. I have it to the point that I can drive it short distances, electric only and can really use the following:
1. A picture or description of how/where the ECU mounts near the glove box. It is currently on the floor with the wires connected.
2. A picture or diagram of the fuses/relays that are on the left side of the gas engine. There are a number of empty sockets, maybe I am just missing a relay. And I am missing the cover which says what is what.
3. I have engine light and triangle warning, and made the mistake of taking manufacturers suggestion to upgrade firmware and software of my code reader which was talking to the Prius and no longer can, so I do not know what the error codes are. I should have the code reader back in a week or so.
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My check engine light came on the other day, with no symptoms or problems. Today I stopped at the Auto Parts store and had the codes read. They were P0440, P0441, P0446, and P0301. They are for the EVAP system and misfire.
I had read here that one of the codes could be for the gas cap so I tightened it and then, also as read on here, disconnected the negative 12 V battery cable to perhaps clear the check engine light. I was curious.
When I started the car again, I now have not only the check engine light, but the red triangle exclamation point. How would you proceed? The 12 volt battery is around 5 years old. The entire exhaust system was replaced last year.(not O2 sensors though)
The hybrid battery was replaced at 70,000 miles and I now have 110,000 miles on it. I really wonder why disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it caused more error lights to appear? Also, the Auto parts guy said his code reader was fine for my car but I seem to remember here that there may be a special Prius one.
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I have a 2001 Prius and my wife has a 2001 Highlander. I only have 1 master key remaining for the Prius, and both cars use the same transponder type. I had a plain (metal, no transponder) copy made for the Prius, and it turns all the locks just fine. I also followed the master key programming steps with the metal non-transponder key in the ignition, but holding the Highlander key in close proximity to the ignition. It worked! If I have the highlander key on the keychain next to the metal spare Prius key, the Prius will start. The Highlander key is now a 'superkey,' it will start the Highlander, and it will also pacify the Prius immobilizer.
But this is not 100%; if it doesn't sit right on the keychain, I sometimes have to hold the Highlander key a little closer to the ignition to get it to recognize. I
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I have a 2001 prius. It has around 105k miles on it. i bought it when it had 86k. I've had 0 issues with the car other than replacing the 12v battery in the trunk and its always run like a champ. Today though, i went to start the car and it started up as normal. I left the keys in the car for a second to get out and talk to my wife.
When i happened to look in through the window though i saw that the cars fuel gauge was all of a sudden flashing. The entire bar. (when i started it originally it had 5 bars of fuel) I got back in the car to investigate and noticed that the engine had turned off. All the power was still on with no triangle of death/turtle or anything else. only the flashing fuel gauge was on. I tried restarting it multiple times to no avail. The power will come on fine, and the dash will appear as normal. The motor just will not start.
I thought it might be fuel so i went and added a gallon just in case, but still no luck. Problem usually have lights that come on or the triangle of death.
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This has been a very good car for us. We've had it since '03 with 30k. Problems have been minimal, till now. The 'check engine' light came on several months ago, and we were unable to afford the repairs. We used it as a 65 miles per day commuter car, mostly at highway speeds. The mileage has dropped off abruptly from the long-term 42 mpg down all the way to 24. There is a nasty vibration on startup. It lasts for maybe 30 seconds and then calms down. We are now at a place where we can do the repairs.
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Recently, when I start the engine (cold or even warm starts) I hear a subtle knocking noise that doesn't last too long but a few seconds. I figured that maybe it's because our area may still be using winter mix gasoline... but I'm not sure. Also, there's a rattle underneath the car when the engine switches into generating electricity with MG1.
This only happens after a start-up procedure (cold or warm). It stops when I push the gas pedal down a little bit (while still in park) then it goes into charging again, and by that time, it's stopped. I figured it may be a heat shield on the exhaust. It sounds more up in the front.
Also, when I start the car, the engine starts smoothly but then 1-2 seconds later goes into spinning MG1 which makes the car kinda sound like "vrrrrrrr---VRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrr...." .
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So right now I'm not able to start my Toyota's engine. I checked multiple screens and found several weird symptoms that I never saw before.
1. When attempting to turn the engine on, the square light that appear over the selected D, N, P positions etc does not appear at all and the 'Ready' light never appears. When putting the car into the Parked mode the square does not appear over the 'P' on the dashboard or any of the other modes and Ready light does not display.
2 . On the dashboard the fuel gauge is blinking continuously. Its showing full bars while blinking even though I have about 3 cars worth of gas in the car.
3. On the computer screen when I go to the Energy menu (The screen that shows the Battery life and the Motor and Engine working together) The battery life is showing as completely empty. But the battery should be working considering the computer screen even turns on. Radio also works.
4. The OBD II scanner does not get a reading. The scanner powers on when plugged into the car, but a "Linking Error" occurs when attempting to read any error codes.
5. On the same computer screen where the Energy menu is displayed, the Temperature gauge is showing an "E" instead of an actual temperature.
6. On the outside of the car I hear a very faint sound that I don't recognize. It could be nothing but its not a sound I ever heard before.
Also NO WARNING LIGHTS are appearing on the dashboard. Which makes sense considering the car engine is not turned on to show anything. I don't know where this issue is coming from?
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I bought a 2002 abt a year ago, and every 1000 miles I get the red triangle and the gas engine refuses to start. Initially it starts, then shuts down after a few seconds. Weird thing is, after the 5th or 6th attempt, the car starts normally and off I go. When I turn the key to "on" the check light goes on. This has never happened while I drive, only after the car has been driven and parked.
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This has been happening for awhile now. I will drive somewhere, distance isn't a problem, and then after I'm done, I'll go to start my car, and it won't start. It won't turn over or whatever the term is. The starter tries, but won't bite. Sometimes it will start and I can drive for a bit before it will die about a block or 2 later.
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