I was driving my trusty 2002 152K miles, and came into a very long and very slow traffic jam on the side of a mountain. After about two hours of mostly stop and very little go, my CEL light came on. I am also seeing the "general fault" symbol, but it should be noted that my PS symbol has been showing for about a year because my PS died and I just didn't fix it.
View 11 RepliesMy daughter has a 1996 Saturn SL with something over 100K miles on it. It runs generally well, although using a quart of oil every thousand miles or so. It passes the smog check required for her registration. It's had new spark plugs within the recommended period.
Recently she went on a road trip, and hit stop-and-go traffic for a couple of hours in one large city; it being January in a warm climate, the weather that day was presumably neither very hot nor cold. The Check Engine light came on. Fortunately she had the time to take it to a mechanic recommended by a friend local to the area, who pronounced the engine OK. She proceeded without incident for the rest of her thousand mile trip.
Sounds to me like the emissions crossed some threshold beyond "marginal" during the lengthy idling and running at low speed. Question: if we wanted to avoid such a condition, what kind of repair would be recommended.
I have had a 2002 Prius since December of 2012, and it has been running fine since I got it; while it was in a wreck in May 2013 that has rendered both passenger-side doors and windows unusable, I have not seen that incident cause any other problems, and the car still runs perfectly fine. I am supposed to be driving from my current home state for a job soon, but about a week ago while I was driving on the interstate, the check engine light started flashing.
I was changing lanes and putting a good bit of pressure on the gas in order to pass someone that was going below the speed limit, putting my speed at around 80 mph when the check engine light started flashing. I started getting off of the interstate to find a place to stop and inspect things, but the light stopped flashing when I got down to around 45 mph on the exit ramp, and I was able to drive the rest of the way on the interstate without any trouble, even when I got in the 75 mph range again. The span of time between the light starting to flash and turning off again was probably about a minute or so.
Suddenly today, I get a "Check Engine" light while driving. Scangauge II says it's a P1430 error. I found two different suggestions, but where these are located on the car.
P1430-Electric Air Pump secondary Failure
P1430 -Vacuum Sensor for Adsorber and Catalyst System Circuit Malfunction
I have a 2002 prius with 143,000 miles. On Friday, I went to start my car and put it in gear and the check engine light came on and the "triangle of death" lit up and car died. I turned it off and waited about 30 seconds and tried starting it again. It started and I drove 1/2mile home. Went into the garage and got the Actron/OBDII code reader. Pulled the code P3125 which when I googled it, it was referring to the inverter. I cleared the code and all was well.
View 6 RepliesMy check engine light came on the other day, with no symptoms or problems. Today I stopped at the Auto Parts store and had the codes read. They were P0440, P0441, P0446, and P0301. They are for the EVAP system and misfire.
I had read here that one of the codes could be for the gas cap so I tightened it and then, also as read on here, disconnected the negative 12 V battery cable to perhaps clear the check engine light. I was curious.
When I started the car again, I now have not only the check engine light, but the red triangle exclamation point. How would you proceed? The 12 volt battery is around 5 years old. The entire exhaust system was replaced last year.(not O2 sensors though)
The hybrid battery was replaced at 70,000 miles and I now have 110,000 miles on it. I really wonder why disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it caused more error lights to appear? Also, the Auto parts guy said his code reader was fine for my car but I seem to remember here that there may be a special Prius one.
The car died on me the other day at a stoplight but started up again (It resisted for a sec but then caught). Now it's taking a bit to start and sounds very faint when it finally catches and the turn over is slow. I'm no mechanic but I can replace parts. I'm just wondering if it's the fuel pump or injectors, maybe low fuel pressure. I haven't had a chance to do anything to it. Where to start?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 1.8t and I was on my way home from work, sitting at a traffic light and my rpms went up to 1200-1500 and then my check engine light came on.
View 7 RepliesTurning the engine off and on in stop and go traffic saves gas but what does it do for the life of battery and starter?
View 12 RepliesMy 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L V6 AWD failed to start a week ago. After towing to my neighborhood repair shop, it was diagnosed as a faulty ECM based on code P560 (System Voltage Problem). They replaced the ECM (along with relay) with a used one with the exact same part#. After that, the car was started and run OK but Check Engine Light stays on all the time. The codes displayed are:
P1529 TCU MIL Request Signal
P0501 VSS Range Performance
I was told that this is caused by the fact that each ECM is VIN/PIN locked. The replacing ECM was used in another car before and was locked with a different VIN thus cannot communicate with some components of the current car.
My questions are:
Can this used ECM be unlocked and relocked with a new VIN/PIN? If so, does it require the previous VIN/PIN to unlock? Most likely the previous VIN/PIN is no longer available.
Does this service require the presence of the car or can it be done with the ECM alone? Do keys need to be re-registered? The car starts fine currently.
Well I drove the wife to work in her Prius this morning. I noticed in heavy stop go traffic, the engine was idling more than normal. Normally the EV light is on when I am stationary ( idle) in traffic, but for some reason today almost more than 70% of the stop go traffic the RPM was felt via the brake pedal and EV light was off, but the battery had at least 3 bars or more I think.
The load on the vehicle was the usual, AC on at 65 in ECO mode and radio. I guess this question might be more a hybrid newbie question than anything else. So, just curious what "drives" the vehicle to be in EV mode when stationary in traffic or in my case earlier this morning what prevented it?
Check motor light came on...... Now at every light I stop at.... The engine won't kick off.... Keeps running...
Oil-check
Coolant - check
Gas cap-check
Anywhere in Orange county we have trusted repair/diagnostics?
I have a problem with my car I notice 2 time when I was driving from city to province about 270km distance and speed 102km/h my car was appear red check engine sign I don't know what is the problem. Last time it was disappear by its self after 2 days ...
View 3 RepliesMy excursion suddenly lost power after sitting in a long traffic jam. I have a scan gauge II set up and didn't see any signs of over heating however when I went to accelerate back up to highway speed my motor revved up to 3000 rpm and just lost power I ended creeping on the side of the road at about 15 mph and barely maintaining that. The motor was not willing to revv up. I reached a spot to pull over and shut it down for about 15 minutes and started back up and drove off with no noticable issues. I have 211,000 miles on this motor and I am going to change my coil packs, I think they have been there since the truck was sold new....I changed four of them to address a miss and have six left, I will also be changing my fuel filter. We are about to pull our camper across country....about 1400 miles..
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Prius that I absolutely love! I have just under 82,000 miles and it only had approximately 95 miles on it when I leased it in Feb. 2003. (I'll never lease again!) So, when the lease matured, I didn't want to part with it and the car's been basically problem free. Just the standard oil changes, tire rotation, replacing tires.
On Friday, June 3rd, my check engine light went on, I immediately pulled over, checked the dipstick, but all was well. I drove carefully/slowly home since according to the manual it states, "take to dealer."
On Monday, June 6th, I took it to the dealer and paid $110 for a diagnostic fee and was told: "You have a malfunctioning sensor in the tailpipe which is stuck in the open position and it will cost $1500 to replace, wish I had better news for you." I asked what would happen, would I still be able to drive home, would the engine blow up, etc. All the service manager said was, "Well, it will affect the performance of the car and the gas mileage."
As of Friday, June 10th, miraculously the check engine light went off by itself and has not come back on. AND it has NOT affected my gas mileage, I'm getting anywhere between 48-50 mpg, which is what I usually get!
today my check engine light turned on. I opened the hood ( Not like I know anything about cars, but doesn't hurt to look for obvious stuff I guess) and there was a bubbling sound. I followed the sound to what I think is the inverter pump? It's like a tank smack dab in the middle and has a pretty thick tube coming out. The liquid inside looked to be bubbling or boiling. Is this normal? I've checked the gas cap and tightened it and restarted it so I don't think that's it. It's at about 160,000 miles.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2002 Prius that needs work. The red triangle, PS, and check engine light are all on. It has these codes:
P3100 - 175 (HV ECU internal error. Motor Inverter Current Sensor Malfunction)
p3125 - 287 (Motor Inverter Finv. Inverter Internal Short)
c1259 (HV System Regenerative Malfunction)
I suspect the inverter or even worse the MG2 has burnt windings.
BTW the "infamous" inverter pump seems to be working. I can hear it and see the fluid in the reservoir move.
I suspect it is more a symptom than a problem and will disappear when the real problem is fixed.
I have a 390 FE engine and whenever I am idling or waiting at a long stop light my engine temperature goes from the regular temp of 180 to about 190 to 210. How to keep the temp normal when idling? I have checked my fluids and they all seem to be fine, I don't know why it would be doing this.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1st gen prius. Got the triangle and check engine light which is p3006... I checked the battery all cells are above 7.5. I notice the inverter coolant is low which I'm adding some today. Even tho it was low is it supposed to be moving or is my pump out? i did not see the waves or bubbles at all.
View 2 RepliesI just recently purchased a 2001 Prius with 92,000 miles on it and the check engine like comes on frequently. I have a scangauge and I scan for codes and it comes up P0000. I clear the codes the light goes off and everything seems to be ok. I'm not even sure where to start "looking" for something to be wrong.
View 17 Replies I have a 2001 Prius with about 175K miles on it. I was headed to the beach this past Tuesday and had an oil change done right before I left. The trip here from NC to Myrtle Beach was about 200 miles. On the way back today, after I stopped to fill up on gas the 'check engine' light came on for the rest of the trip back home. I went tonight to Autozone and got back all the codes that are P0420, P0300, P0301, P0304, P0440 ....
My question is...Is it possible that all of those codes are somehow the result of my recent oil change? (Oil overflow?, etc.) I've been doing some searching in the archives for those codes and oil/fluid changes appear to be a possibility with all of them.
Just a little background, I've already had the hybrid battery replaced in this car a little more than a year ago. I've had no more warning lights come on since that time until today.