Prius (2001-03) :: 2002 - Battery Causing False Check Engine Light To Come On?
Mar 28, 2012
I have a 2002 prius with 143,000 miles. On Friday, I went to start my car and put it in gear and the check engine light came on and the "triangle of death" lit up and car died. I turned it off and waited about 30 seconds and tried starting it again. It started and I drove 1/2mile home. Went into the garage and got the Actron/OBDII code reader. Pulled the code P3125 which when I googled it, it was referring to the inverter. I cleared the code and all was well.
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Got a recall letter last January from Toyota concerning a false warning light on my model. Letter mentioned that moisture in the cables was triggering a false warning message about the main battery. My 2002 was having this problem. The dealer refused to do the work. Told me they did that recall work in 2006 but I did not have the problem back then and Servco Hawaii told me that Toyota had not put that out as a recall back then. The light has gone off and on now for a year. Car drives perfect otherwise and only have 60,000 miles on it. What do I do?
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2002 W8 Wagon Automatic with 55,000 miles. Second instance of Check Engine Light (MIL) in three months. Nothing wrong, supposedly. Dealer writeup says: "MIL checked and found sporadic codes in 46, 15 module, cleared codes and road tested, checked ok."
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2002 Santa Fe, 2.7 AWD
The transmission has started going into limp mode and causing the check engine light to come on.
The codes given are p0750 and.... I think p0751, for shift solenoids C and D. There is also the generic Transmission Control Module code.
Limp mode only occurs at higher speeds although shifting feels a little rough at times in lower speeds.
If operated in manual mode the vehicle can be driven normally at all speeds without going into limp mode.
Fluid levels are fine.
With limp mode occurring in automatic but not occurring in manual mode, is it more reasonable to believe the solenoids are malfunctioning or the control module itself? I'm inclined to replace the solenoids but find it odd that the vehicle operates normally in manual. Also, can the solenoids be replaced without removing the transmission? It looks like I could get the pan off but am unsure if there is room to get the work done once it is removed.
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I only drive my car once a month or so to visit family. A few years ago my 12v Battery stopped working in my car. I assume age and just moving my car from one side to the other every morning contributed to this. I got the battery replaced at my local Toyota dealership in Jan 2012.
In early March of this year my 12v battery died again. I jump started my car every morning (with a portable battery pack) until I was ready to drive it a distance a few weeks later. I got about 2 miles and then my check engine light came on as well as my Hybrid System Warning Light.
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I have had a 2002 Prius since December of 2012, and it has been running fine since I got it; while it was in a wreck in May 2013 that has rendered both passenger-side doors and windows unusable, I have not seen that incident cause any other problems, and the car still runs perfectly fine. I am supposed to be driving from my current home state for a job soon, but about a week ago while I was driving on the interstate, the check engine light started flashing.
I was changing lanes and putting a good bit of pressure on the gas in order to pass someone that was going below the speed limit, putting my speed at around 80 mph when the check engine light started flashing. I started getting off of the interstate to find a place to stop and inspect things, but the light stopped flashing when I got down to around 45 mph on the exit ramp, and I was able to drive the rest of the way on the interstate without any trouble, even when I got in the 75 mph range again. The span of time between the light starting to flash and turning off again was probably about a minute or so.
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Suddenly today, I get a "Check Engine" light while driving. Scangauge II says it's a P1430 error. I found two different suggestions, but where these are located on the car.
P1430-Electric Air Pump secondary Failure
P1430 -Vacuum Sensor for Adsorber and Catalyst System Circuit Malfunction
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I was driving my trusty 2002 152K miles, and came into a very long and very slow traffic jam on the side of a mountain. After about two hours of mostly stop and very little go, my CEL light came on. I am also seeing the "general fault" symbol, but it should be noted that my PS symbol has been showing for about a year because my PS died and I just didn't fix it.
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My check engine light came on the other day, with no symptoms or problems. Today I stopped at the Auto Parts store and had the codes read. They were P0440, P0441, P0446, and P0301. They are for the EVAP system and misfire.
I had read here that one of the codes could be for the gas cap so I tightened it and then, also as read on here, disconnected the negative 12 V battery cable to perhaps clear the check engine light. I was curious.
When I started the car again, I now have not only the check engine light, but the red triangle exclamation point. How would you proceed? The 12 volt battery is around 5 years old. The entire exhaust system was replaced last year.(not O2 sensors though)
The hybrid battery was replaced at 70,000 miles and I now have 110,000 miles on it. I really wonder why disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it caused more error lights to appear? Also, the Auto parts guy said his code reader was fine for my car but I seem to remember here that there may be a special Prius one.
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Today while I was out driving in the country, my 2001 Prius with 140,900 miles pulled an error code. The red triangle popped up on the dash along with a "Check Engine" light and the car symbol with the "!" through it came on the MFD. I was able to get it back home safely by the way. The car had a weak 12v battery as it is, and I have been planning on replacing it but haven't gotten around to it yet. What I want to know though is, can a weak 12v battery cause those warning lights?
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2002 Ford Windstar: Whenever I disconnect the battery and then reconnect it, I get this hum that sounds like the CD player preparing to play a CD. There is no CD in the player. It last for about 30 seconds and then stops. Afterwards, my check engine light comes on and stay on until I have the mechanic reset the alarm. The battery is new. My meter shows that the battery is giving out enough volts. It annoys me to have the check engine light on all of the time. I'd rather it be off so it can report if something else goes wrong with the engine.
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I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with 141,000 miles. Recently, I've burned up both O2 sensors causing the check engine light to come on. My mechanic has replaced each and they've burned out again. The head gasket was replaced after that, to no avail. The check engine light continues to come on after being cleared in the computer. I have also noticed that on humid days, the car misfires on at least one cylinder., but any other time, it seems fine. What to check next? My mechanic is at a loss.
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2001 GL 1.5 Litre. Car occasionally hesitates a little with AC off, but runs pretty well. But with the air conditioner on?
Stalls about 50% of time when backing with A/C on. From stoplights, sputters all the way through intersections with A/C on, sometimes backfires. On a few occasions, the Check Engine light will blink on and off while it's doing this. After it gains a little speed/rpm, though, it's all good again, light goes back off.
Had full tune-up just before we bought it 4,000 miles ago. Air filter clean. Not sensors, because the CEL goes back off by itself. What the heck? How could the A/C cause a backfire?
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So I went to start the car (2013 C3) and it wouldn't start. The batter was horribly dead (dim screen and would only go into POWER ON mode.) I charged the battery for like a half hour using a plug in charger using the hood terminals. When I tried to turn it on later, The only thing that came on was the check engine light (really dim) so it's not charged up enough yet obviously. The issue is now it won't turn off. That check engine light is still there. No other screens are on and the vehicle doesn't make any other noises (door ajar, etc.)
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I have a 1997 Dodge Neon with about 153,XXX miles on it. My check engine light has been on and i know that is caused by a random misfire. But more recently i went to start my car and it started but ran for less then 10 seconds and died. I tried to start it again and it wanted to but wouldnt make the final step i guess. We checked my spark plugs and i had oil sitting in 3 of the 4 there are. We have tried starting it again after cleaning the oil out and it started on the first try, I am just afraid of messing anything else up so until we figure out why it did this to begin with the vehicle is off limits. My Fiance said we need to replace the spark plugs and a gasket.
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While driving up a long hill on the highway, one of the cylinders quit firing causing a bad engine vibration and check engine light. I turned around and drove home, pulled the plugs, and found the plug closest to the passenger side had bridged. I'm not sure why; it almost looked like it melted or had some sort of physical damage. This was on a 2013 Sonata Limited 2.0t with 45000 km / 28500 miles.
Pictures here: Spark plug failure - Album on Imgur
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My 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L V6 AWD failed to start a week ago. After towing to my neighborhood repair shop, it was diagnosed as a faulty ECM based on code P560 (System Voltage Problem). They replaced the ECM (along with relay) with a used one with the exact same part#. After that, the car was started and run OK but Check Engine Light stays on all the time. The codes displayed are:
P1529 TCU MIL Request Signal
P0501 VSS Range Performance
I was told that this is caused by the fact that each ECM is VIN/PIN locked. The replacing ECM was used in another car before and was locked with a different VIN thus cannot communicate with some components of the current car.
My questions are:
Can this used ECM be unlocked and relocked with a new VIN/PIN? If so, does it require the previous VIN/PIN to unlock? Most likely the previous VIN/PIN is no longer available.
Does this service require the presence of the car or can it be done with the ECM alone? Do keys need to be re-registered? The car starts fine currently.
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I just switched out my hybrid battery and put in a brand new one. Now, the car isn't doing anything and all that's on is the check engine light. What now? I was told I had to tow it to Toyota and have them reset the computer. Sound right?
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Will overfilling transmission fluid cause hard shifts? I used ~4.3 quarts to refill. How much should I drain out? My check engine light came on.
Basically, I am having hard shifts from 2-3 and 3-4 in tip mode and auto. more tip mode tho.
-I did a complete solenoid change b/c of cold start problem with n92 solenoid.
Fixed the cold start shifting out of first.
-Did a trans fluid change with Mercon V ATF Fluid works fine.
-Just changed oil on 4th of July last week.
Yesterday my check engine light came on. It's been about 500 miles since the solenoid change/trans fluid change, and 100 miles since the oil change.
Now my Mk4 is having this obnoxious shifting. I am thinking I possibly added too much trans fluid into my system as I do not have the VAGcom tool.
I drained out (bone dry drain till no more dripping from check/drain plug), roughly 4 quarts. I added 4.3 give or take 0.1 quarts back into the car.
Now I'm worried because everywhere I'm reading says anywhere from as little as 2.1 quarts to 3.5 quarts.
Should I drain out 0.5 quarts (because I know theres over 4 in there now) to make it 3.5 quarts?
Or should I just redrain the whole thing and start by measure one quart at a time?
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I bought my 2002 prius with 120000 miles. Last night it died with the main battery light and triangle of death on. I haven't taken it to a dealer to have the codes checked out you, but will do it soon. My daughter was driving it when it happened and said the car started shuttering and died. She was able to drive it a few feet at a time before it would die again. Does this sound like a HV battery problem? I will be digging into it tonight.
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My check engine light came on, I took the car to my usual mechanic, and he said the codes returned indicated that two cells in the batter were bad. (I just called to get the codes, but he's out of the office for about 30 minutes on a test drive...)
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