Porsche - Boxster :: 1999 - Roof Suddenly Won't Go Down
May 10, 2011
Just took my 99 boxster cabriolet out of storage. It was hooked up to a trickle battery charger all winter, and started up perfectly. All is well except now the convertible roof will not go down. The fuses are ok, what could this be?
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Someone jarred the car slightly from behind while the car was parked and now the car won't start. Does this have anything to do with an automatic fuel valve shut off that has to be reset to restart and, if so, how do you fix it?
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Recently bought a used '02 Porsche Boxster and find that there is vibration in the steering wheel when driving between 75 - 80 on the freeway. I see in 2008 the exact same problem was experienced by Goatster, a fellow owner of an '02 Boxster.
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I am working on an older couples two cars one is a 1984 Porsche that I replaced a fuel pump, fuel filter, cleaned all the fuel lines out, new spark plugs, new air filter, changed oil, changed coolant, cleaned injectors, and got the throttle cable unstuck. the other ,a 1990 Porsche, I haven't done anything too but I plan on doing everything I did to the other except the fuel pump, unless something else is messed up.
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While driving on the highway, I got a whole bunch of warning lights. Mechanic replaced alternator, but while returning from the shop, I again got flash of several warning lights, though they went out in a second (seemed to happen especially in a hard right turn). This continued intermittently for several months, though it hasn't happened recently. Now, however, each time I start the engine, the SRS warning light comes on and stays on for about 90 seconds. It then goes out and is fine until next start. Additionally, on two recent occasions, when I started, the gauges were all dead. They started to work after about 15 seconds, then the SRS light came on as before. Battery is about 3 years old. Checked voltage before start (11.8v) and after engine running (13.6v).
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My car sometimes runs like a dream and then abruptly will lose power, act like it's not getting fuel, not respond to the accelerator and sputter and buck. My mechanic has rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned fuel filter, cleaned out tank, replaced hoses. He's familiar with Porsche engines and I know he's not blowing smoke up my nose, so to speak. He's tried everything he can think of. I never know when it's going to act up. It will run smoothly, I will drive it hard, drive it slow and easy, corner hard, not hard, and it sometimes stays happy, sometimes decides it doesn't want to run. It improves when clutch is pushed in, acts like it wants to respond, then after I let the clutch out and apply gas, it starts to buck and there's no power. Haven't been able to get it out of first when it does that.
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I have a 1995 Porsche 993. The car sat outside in the heavy rain the other day for quite a while. The next day when I went to start the car it stuttered and barely turned over. I gently hit the gas and it took a few minutes to warm up - then it idled fine. I was pulling away and I noticed that it would idle fine but it only seemed to stutter when I hit the gas pedal. After about 20 minutes the effect disappeared and it ran fine. This is the second time this has happened and only after the car sat outside in heavy rain. I have read the other comments about stalling being due to water on spark plugs, wires or in the distributor cap, etc. (mine were replaced less than two years ago) so I wondered if my situation is different because it only seems to happen on acceleration.
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So i have this Porsche and is been passed down and how to fix it like battery and everything is nice i mean I'll work on engine next but the actual stick that changes gears can actually pop out and i mean i can still change gears it's just is there a way to make the stick stay in there.
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I have a 1967 Porsche 912. Today it was being a bit difficult getting fired up. Third time was the charm, but once in gear it had no power at all. The tachometer was around 3.5k in first before it even found the 10mph neighborhood ad took its sweet time to get there when shifting into second the car died. I turned her right around an put her to bed. I am thinking carburetor...
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My Porsche is backfiring & popping when it has heated up while driving. What could this be? I took it to a Porsche repair shop where the guy changed the Perma-Tune Box and replaced the coil and charge me over $1400.00 and the car is still doing the same thing. Could this be a tune up problem?
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I purchased front brakes and rotors from O'Reilly Auto Parts, for my 2006 Porsche Cayenne. The brakes were grinding while stopping the car, so I went to O'Reilly and talked to them about the problem. They suggested that I get different pads. I ordered different brake pads, installed them and returned the others. Now the second round of pads are making that grinding sound again while stopping the car. I checked the rotors and they seem to be fine.Is there special pads that will not make that grinding sound? If so, where is a good place to get them from?
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I have a 1994 Porsche 968 and I can not find the lowside AC charge port. Where it is?
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I had a realization the other day, based on a Porsche 944, that the "set screw" holding brake rotors are more for the assembly process but are not actually what accounts for the fastening of the rotor on the hub. instead, the 130 Nm torque on the five wheel nuts that sandwich the rotor between the hub and wheel do this. If the torque on the nuts is uneven, but the assembly is otherwise secure, wouldn't one prediction of this be uneven brake rotor wear?
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I have a 1999 saab convertible with only 60,000 miles on it. Great car but recently starting leaking. water coming in across the front seat, dripping straight down on to seat and my head. Also wet in back seat. Cleaned out the well that runs around top. No apparent tears.
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On cold starts the engine makes a continual squeal. Within minutes if I drive it or simply rev the engine a few times the sound is gone and the engine again sounds glorious. If I spray the belt with water the sound immediately ends. I have replaced the water pump, belt tensioner roller, idler rollers and of course the belt. All to no avail. 2005 Porsche 911...
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I need to mount a LED strobelight to the roof of a F250 2016. not really liking to drill a hole in the roof of a new truck I thought of running it thru the existing wiring from the brake light above the rear window. Looking for info if there's a hot wire in there that I could get power from & than could just run 1 wire to a switch. How to run the wiring ????
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I was checking out a rust spot in the roof and upon closer inspection also saw that the sealant in the channels is cracked on the edges. Can't tell if there is rust in there too or just dirt.
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Today I started to install my satellite radio in the 250. I ran the antenna through the roof where the 3rd brake light is. The lights were not working so I thought I'd just replace them while it was off the truck. To my surprise the bulbs the guy had installed must have been too big because the wires, sockets and the housing were melted and not really usable. With that said. I can't seem to find a web site that would have an aftermarket setup that would fit the roof of a F250.
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1) How to get the inner liner for the front roof console (cubby and sunglass holder only no comp) out? I am planning on adding a couple of switches up there and need to clearance it in a couple of spots.
2) Is the wiring on the stock radio the same colors as the wiring harness on the vehicle side? Looking at changing out for a touchscreen (for rear cameras and bluetooth for my phone) and the one I am looking at needs to be wired in, and was looking at just cutting the plug off the radio and wiring to that instead of cutting into the harness on the truck side.
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Car was running just fine, suddenly yesterday afternoon she would crank but not turn over. I see someone with a 1990 volvo turbo is having the same problem but this is not a turbo model. We do not have the service manual for this car but are fairly handy. If this isn't something we can fix ourselves is there a way to at least get her started so we don't have to tow?
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99 Accord, 160,000, automatic, 4cyl vtec, properly maintained.
Recently the CEL came on following an episode of the engine running poorly. It painted EGR code P0401 which is being dealt with, and, P1739: "third clutch pressure switch circuit fault." I investigated briefly in my Haynes and found that P1739 is one of the codes that will not trip the CEL.
I have not had any major issues with this transaxle. The fluid is at its proper level, Honda Z1 brand, and in good shape. I have it changed every 20,000 miles. Sometimes if I am driving along in 2nd gear, right around the upper speed limit before it would shift to third (20-25 mph), the car will jerk just a little but it is driveable. Could this be related?
Should I let this slide until something happens or should I get the to a transmission tech? What would you do? Could the thing go into limp mode one day without warning?
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