Porsche - 911 :: 2005 - On Cold Starts Engine Makes Continual Squeal
Jan 25, 2015
On cold starts the engine makes a continual squeal. Within minutes if I drive it or simply rev the engine a few times the sound is gone and the engine again sounds glorious. If I spray the belt with water the sound immediately ends. I have replaced the water pump, belt tensioner roller, idler rollers and of course the belt. All to no avail. 2005 Porsche 911...
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My 2005 with 160k miles has engine noise when cold.
I talked to a couple specialists who said it could be valve noise another said valve noise would not abate when the engine warmed up. He suspected piston slap. A valve adjustment is pricey and the local independents are afraid to touch it given the complexity and needed shim packs. If it is piston slap I would be disappointed after spending a pile of dough to still have the same noise.
Have I missed a possible cause?
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2004 95K. Over the past month or so there is a short squawk or squeal when starting the motor. This has only been happening when the temperature outside is 20 degrees or below. The belts are new, including the timing belt. What would you check first?
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Twice this week our 2009 SantaFe (3.3l) had a squeal from the engine upon cold startup. The first time it was very cold (-20C or so) and this was louder and longer than the second time (-10C or so). The squeal lasted only a few seconds and trailed off to nothing. Each time the heater controls were set on defrost (fyi). In order of likely suspects, I suspect one of the following:
-compressor engaging and causing sudden increase in resistance on the belt or compressor engagement clutch noisy
-idler pulley for some reason causing belt to slip at first, but don't suspect idler bearing as noise disappears right away
-belt slippage due to resistance somewhere else--e.g. water pump or alternator.
This may not happen when I take the vehicle in for its next scheduled maintenance as by then the weather will likely be warmer. This has 76000 km on the clock.
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I get a small "squeal" from the engine usually only when it's cold out, and have narrowed it down to the water pump pulley (2nd pulley down from the top). I put a drop or two of WD-40 on the "rod" that runs through the pulley and it stops. I know not to put anything on the belt to avoid contamination but it seems to me that it's the metal bolt that keeps the pulley in place. I stopped by an O'Reilly and had the tech have a look because I was going to try a more viscous grease. He thinks that it's either the pump is starting to fail or that the pulley could have moved out of place. He said I should remove the belt and tug on the pulley.
If it moves then it's loose and needs to be lubed and tightened. If it doesn't then it's a water pump replacement. What do you all think? I don't want to drop a ton of money as it truly only squeals when it's cold, and unfortunately I'm thinking Chicago's gonna have a cold one this year even though after the engine heats up it's goes away. If you have a guess to the problem, what do you think replacement will run me. I'm only at 30,000 miles, and has been garaged until recently so I don't think it's a belt change or pump failure yet.
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I have this problem for some time already. Most of the time my AC works great - blowing cold air as it should. But sometimes it starts blowing "normal" air instead of cold. To fix that I have to turn OFF and then ON the AC again by pressing the AC button.
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On Tuesday July 16th was driving along AC was on and all of sudden I heard a squeal coming from the engine compartment. The AC stopped blowing cold air then the A/C light started the flash (manual Air conditioning). I turned off the AC and finished out my day with the windows open.. I have read the post about the flashing A/C light but I am wondering if I should address the squeal 1st I only hear it when the A/C is turned on.. 2006 Camry V6 137K miles.
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My 01 accent's engine makes a clattering sound(sounds a little bit like a diesel engine) when it's first started in the morning. After warming up (in about 20 seconds or so) the sound disappears. My oil level is normal(last oil change about 4k miles ago with full synthetic oil. I normally change oil at 5k intervals with full synthetic), timing belt changed about 1 year(20k miles) ago. Should I be worried?
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There is never an issue when the weather is warm, but as soon as the first cold day in September in New York occurs, we usually have to wait 5 minutes or longer to shift the car into reverse or drive.We have taken the car to several repair shops to deal with this nuisance repair, and no one seems to want to investigate.
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I just bought an 05 F350 and it starts fine when cold but after I drive it a while will not start even after sitting for up to an hour (overnight cold start fires right up). I replaced 1 battery and alternator and it started up right after install but after driving for a while still have the problem - cranks fine but will not start.
Buddy of mine has the same truck (just a 250) and had this same problem recently and had to replace the High Pressure Oil Pump, which was super expensive! This is my first diesel truck and it runs like a champ (once it starts!)
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I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma that has a knock or ticking in cold weather. The problem starts sometimes immediately after I start and other times it is only when I press on the gas in the cold mornings after a few min warm up. The noise goes away after 10 min. The question I am wondering is this:
1: could it be worn piston rings and the pistons are slapping the cylinder wall
2: is it an oil pump problem or a oil restriction issue
3: is it a valve guide issue
4: with the history of the 2.7 having exhaust manifold issues (poor manufacturing) could a cracked manifold be the issue
I change the oil myself, the oil filters have been OEM toyota, the noise has been going on since 60,000 miles, the truck is at 230,000 miles.
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My 2012 V6 seems overly susceptible to the belts squealing (which leads to the AC not cooling until the belts dry) when I drive through a puddle.
I don't have charging or electrical problems or any symptoms of a too loose belt, although I suppose perhaps it is slightly loose? Or is this just a common problem because of a not big enough splash guard?
I'm not talking about driving through a monsoon flood with water up to the doorjams, I'm talking about even going 5 to 10 or 20 mph, through a dip in the road with a little standing water, and knowing water will splash up into the engine compartment, make my belts squeal, and half the time, make the AC stop until the belts dry.
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I've been experiencing ENGINE RPM FLUCTUATION on cold starts. I took it into the dealer and they found an update available for the ECU and reprogrammed the ECU.
2009 Santa Fe ?
So far it appears to have corrected the RPM Fluctuation on a cold start... I see TSB 10-FL-010 cover this but also suggests to replace the Throttle Position Sensor which wasn't done on my vehicle.
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The oil light on my 2005 Chryler Town & Country comes on when started when it is cold outside. It stays on until I turn the key off and restart, then it goes out and does not come back on. My mechanic cannot find anything wrong. This only happens in cold weather, not in the summer.
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I have a 2000 honda civic with 120,000 miles on it. recently, on cold starts (when i haven't turned the engine for a day) i've noticed a rapid vibrating or rattling noise about 30 seconds or so after i've turned the ignition. this noise lasts for maybe 15 to 20 seconds then it goes away, presumably as the engine has warmed a little.
I do drive a lot, and during the day even after the car has not been running for a few hours this noise doesn't occur. Only happens on the cold starts. I hope it's nothing major. I've attached a video with the sound. about 30 seconds into the video you will hear the noise kick in. (if the video doesn't show below here is the youtube link: [URL] ....
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When engine is cold it starts fine, when hot from driving (e.g. the engine's temperature display's needle is in the middle) i cannot start it unless i try 3-4 LONG keys. What can it be? Where should i start?
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I have a 98 camry 4 cylinder and only on cold mornings after engine starts, right then I hear a one time hump or a poot like noise near the belt area /passenger side. I've changed out the powe rsteering fluid but still does it.. never does it when warm or again after driving, only on cold mornings.
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Since day one I've had an issue with the exhaust leaking on my car, right at the flex pipe before the cat. I have replaced it at least 5 times in the last year. Every 2 moths or so it tears the flexpipe right in half, like it's literally in 2 pieces when I take it out. So, I thought that maybe the factory dogbone mount was old and weak, causing the engine to move around more, therefore tearing the flexpipe apart, so I got an new dogbone with poly bushings to combat that. It did reduce engine movement, but the exhaust kept breaking at the same spot. Then I thought that the metal was weak from it being welded so many times, so I got a new downpipe with the cat on ebay for like 150 CAN, and put a new gasket on, and now it still leaks...
Only thing though, is that this time on cold starts (as it is winter, so around -25 celcius) its really REALLY loud, like the exhaust sheared off right after the cat. However, after a few hours of driving it seems to get quieter at idle, but if you give it a little gas, it is quite audible. Also I can see exhaust fumes coming out my engine bay on said cold starts, however if I get down to ground level, I can hear it plain as day right where the pinch clamp is that connects to the catback part.
So, my theory is that, cause the bands on the clamp rusted out so my dad just put those u-bolt muffler clamps on there, which I can see an opening in the clamp, even if they're tight, until the exhaust gets hot and expands, kinda making the seal tighter but not air tight like it should. So maybe that clamp isn't doing it's job anymore and I just need a new one. OR it could be that that stupid flex pipe is broken again or that the bolts holding it to the manifold aren't tight, which that can't be cause i got them pretty snug on there. I'll have to take a look underneath again, see If I see any carbon on the exhaust, which would mean a leak, but I checked a few weeks ago and it was shiny metal, no signs of any leaks.
Car is an 04 golf with the 2.0 engine code BEV if that makes any difference. I double checked and NONE of the hangers are broken, and it's held in the right spot as it should, there looks to be no force exerted on the flexpipe at all when installed in the car, so I'm really confused.
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have an 2009 Toyota Corolla 62K miles. If the car sits out 8 hours or more in VERY COLD (zero degrees) weather makes a 1-2 second clashing/sparking noise the split second after turning the ignition on but before engine starts. I tried to attach video/audio. The car starts and runs fine. isn't a ticking or knocking or tapping noise assoc. with bad engine. It isn't squealing noise assoc. w/ serpentine belt. I've been waiting for it to get cold enough to leave overnight at Toyota dealer. I keep wondering if it isn't related to the botched oil changed at the Toyota dealer a couple yrs ago when they forgot the oil & I ran car about 30-60 seconds. At the time, they said all was okay and did compression test (Cyl 1=178psi, #2=175 #3=180 #4=178) all within the normal specs 145-189. I got a 2nd opinion at another Toyota dealer at time who removed valve cover and inspected cam caps and scoped cylinder walls and said all was okay and compression good. No mechanical problems- uses no oil, check engine light not on, etc. What noise is and why just when very cold and car sits out long time?
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Some part of the hybrid system makes a moderate to loud screeching noise when the car starts moving initially. It's gotten to the point where people are staring at me when I pull away in parking lots because it's so loud.
- Do the gen II cars also make this noise?
- Why don't the Lexus hybrids make this noise?
- Is there anything that can be done to lessen the noise?
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Have a 2012 prius v 3 and randomly when the car is shut off I notice a fan of some sort that appears to be running and the noise appears to be coming from the rear of the car. This doesn't happen right after the car is shut off. If the car is off and come back to it 2 hours later you hear the fan going. In order to rectify, what I do is turn the car on (not accessory mode), and shut back off. The fan stops.
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