Porsche :: 1983 - Shift Stick That Change Gears Actually Pop Out
Dec 23, 2013
So i have this Porsche and is been passed down and how to fix it like battery and everything is nice i mean I'll work on engine next but the actual stick that changes gears can actually pop out and i mean i can still change gears it's just is there a way to make the stick stay in there.
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My car is in great condition. 70,000 miles and I am the second owner. Every time I take it to a mechanic they can't believe how good the engine looks. But there is a mystery problem. I have been dealing with what seems to be an air leak or pressure issues. After driving for a while the car has a lazy start after a stop. The first few gears seem to not catch. If fells like there is a block in a line and it's trying to push through air or fuel to get to the 3rd gear. I have noticed on colder days the timing belt screeches a bit. When in high altitudes this problem is worse! After my last oil change they noticed a leak. Also the dipstick for my transmission fluid is broken. Although I check it regularly and that seems to be just fine. I want to get to the bottom of this!
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This is what’s wrong with my 1998 Honda CR-V manual transmission. When it’s off, the gear stick works normally. However, when I start the car, the gear stick gets stuck and won’t move to change gears. It happened before a couple times and if I warmed the car up for about 10 minutes it worked normally again, and normally the next time I drove it. However, this morning, the gear shift would not work even after warming it up, except when the car was turned off.
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My transmission had no slipping was running fine . Oil level was ok , recently added 1/2 quart , cause it has some small leaks. I go to drive away other day and none of the drive gears or reverse would engage. Mechanic thinks transmission locked up . Kind of hard to condemn my old baby considering it was running fine .
Would the TCC solenoid do this or the ECU ? I recently reinstalled the bar going to starter that was disconnected for 5+ years because i was having slow crank issues. This transmission problem occurred 2 days later. I am thinking it might have made the ECU unit go bad , since the starter had not a good ground for so long ?
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I looked back through the DSG threads and didn't find anything regarding the direction in which you manually up shift using the stick shifter...towards the dash. This seems odd to me because if you are accelerating, your are forced into the seat, moving away from the shifting direction. The natural shifting direction would be towards the back. And vice-versa for braking and down shifting situations. Or is it just me. Can reverse the shifter to up shift towards the back?
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I recently bought my grandfather's old F-150, its a 1983 model with the 351w and the 7200VV carb. I replaced the distributor cap & rotor, plugs, wires, and fluids. The truck idles just fine in park/neutral, but when I shift it into reverse or drive, it stalls out. There is a valve of some kind attached to the carburetor, and it opens and closes rapidly as the truck dies (in time with its sputtering) so I think it may be the cause of the problem. I have not been able to find much info on that carburetor, but I think that valve is a fuel temperature system that meters the amount of fuel going to the carb depending on is temp. Can I replace that part without having to replace the whole carburetor?
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I got into my 1998 Saturn SL2 (Gold) and the stick shift was entirely loose. It is like the stick is no longer connected to anything. What the problem is and how much it might cost to fix? Keep in mind, the car has almost 230K miles on it.
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How to remove the stick shift knob on a 5 speed 99 passat .
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My 2002 mini 6-speed stick licks to get stuck in the I park it in when its cold. After driving in that gear for 4 minutes it warms up and let's loose.
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My 14 year old Jetta, 119,000 mile will manually o into reverse ,but will not allow me to reverse the car? Could this be a clutch problem, or transmission. Is it worth repairing it, or purchasing, leasing car? Car also had new engine 3 years ago.
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I have a 2009 3.3L santa fe integral transmission and for the second time they have a really bad shacking in the steering wheel and in the stick shift when I'm on the road the same thing like your drive on the side road bump to wake you up. I stop two times on the side of the road to find if they have anything abnormal but with no resolute.
My oils are all ok and no loss of performance of the car except they consume a little bit more gas (around 10L/100Km. The last time this happened the arm shifter vibrated.
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about a week ago, I noticed my stick shift sitting a little lower than normal, and now I have to actually engage clutch, then pull upward on the stick shift before I can shift gears without a problem, if I do not pull up, the car just won't shift.
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I have a 2010 RX and I've recently noticed every time I shift from Drive to Reverse and vice versa there's a squeaking noise coming from the shift stick. What this could be and if there's an easy solution?
I'm not due for service or an oil change for another 5,000 miles so I'm hoping it's not something I need to address immediately. Do you think it would be safe to wait until then?
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"my Honda accord 98, is stick shift and recently it has been rattleting a bit when I switch to speed one. if I don't push the clutch it shakes and wants to almost turn off."
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When driving, a pin fell out of the shifter arm under the car and now the shift stick is extremely loose and, although it will go into gear, it is almost undriveable. I have reinserted a pin, but the stick shift is still loose. I gave it a test drive and I drove about 10 feet in first gear, but when I put it into reverse, the car continues to move forward.
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I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse, V6, 5spd, 91k miles. Only on hot days with temps >80 degrees, after about 30 minutes of driving (city or highway), the stick shift gets "sticky" and will no longer snap back to center. Also takes a bit more effort to switch from gear to gear This leads to a little delay (and frustration) while I fish around for 3rd while upshifting (or 4th while downshifting). Once the car has had a chance to cool off a bit (1 hr or so of not driving) the shifter behaves normally and will return to center during shifts... only to get goofy again after 30 min of driving. What's causing this? Only does this when ambient temp is hot. On cooler days, no issues. Clutch not slipping at all.
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My wife and I test drove a 2012 Avalon Limited at our local dealership. It was a demo that they were selling as a new Toyota at a $5,000 discounted price.
We loved the TAL but we found that moving of the automatic stick shift to be a little bit awkward. This bothered my wife more than me. We had to move the auto shift stick from side to side and then forward and backward to go between Park, Reverse, and Drive.
On our 1988 Toyota Supra that we still love to drive, the auto shifting between Park, Reverse, and Drive, and the lower Drives is easy. You just move the automatic stick shift forward and and back to change gears. It was the same on our 1988 Toyota Celica GTS, another wonderful car that we sold to a friend recently.
We should have asked the salesman about the automatic transmission stick shift but we asked lots of other questions instead.
So what can you share with us from your experience? Did you get used to moving the auto shift stick from gear to gear easily? Is there a safety reason for this shifting alignment?
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent, has 167k miles on it. Transmission has 80k, put in at about 155k. Came home from Tahoe, and the next day, I tried to go to work, and the gear shift was stuck in first. Hadn't had the money to get anything fixed, but when I finally got it looked at, was told I needed a new clutch and possibly a new flywheel. Been cleaning it out to sell, and today I started it up and realized that the stick is in neutral and moves back and forth freely, but the transmission is in gear. I know that, because I had to keep my foot on the clutch to keep it running. What would cause that? I'm hoping it's something easy and cheaper to fix, because I love this car and am not ready to part with it just yet. The clutch doesn't have that many miles on it either, maybe 10-15k, if that. I've had the car for almost ten years, so it's not poor driving, on my part.
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I've got a 95 Intrepid that wont seem to change gears when I have the accelerator all the way down (from standing and passing gear). Other than that it seems ok. I want to add some Lucas. I am worried about overfilling...Lucas says a moderate overfill is ok, but I am still apprehensive.
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I made a mistake, detached TPS from throttle, thought it was purge valve, then I put it back and today my car won't change gears, I messed something up, never had problems with my transmission. Santa fe 2003 3.5 ....
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,I have a 2004 C70 Volvo. One day I noticed a sizable puddle of oil underneath the car that came out of the transmission box. The car turns on fine, but when I put it in drive and press on the gas pedal, I hear the engine roar but the car doesn't move an inch. It is as if the gears were on neutral. I tried reverse and the same happens; I just hear the engine roar with no movement at all.
I asked one mechanic and they said I need a new transmission- which is very expensive- but they didn't give me an explanation. They just said 'it happens'... What is wrong specifically (just out of curiosity)? As far as I know this was a sudden problem. The car was working fine the previous day then the next day, I see the puddle of oil and the transmission doesn't feed at all.Is my only option is buying a used transmission (costs around a couple of grands)?
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