I drive a 94 Pontiac sunbird LE, and recently I was driving up to a stop sign and just about stopped when the brake pedal went straight to the floor. I pumped the brakes a few times and they were fine again. Then the next time I started up the car the abs and parking brake lights were on, and stayed on for 4 days. Just the other day the same thing happened again. What is going on?
View 5 RepliesDoes it harm the emergency brake to use it instead of the foot brake to slow while gliding into a parking spot?
View 19 RepliesI recently had a Car alarm/remote start installed in my van and it seems that every now and then my ABS Light and Parking Brake Light come on while driving but if i shut the van off the lights all go out and don't come back on for a few days then it's the same thing. I also changed the front brakes right before i had the install done so i don't know maybe i did something or maybe it was the shop i am thinking it was the shop as they seemed pretty incompetent and could not to this day (3 weeks/19hrs shop time (8hr+3hr+8hrs)) get the alarm to function right.
View 8 RepliesSuddenly all these lights came on in a 2012 Elantra . Had at the dealer and they checked wheel speed sensors, wiring to sensors and said all those are ok and the abs module is bad. I replaced the module, bled the brakes and the exact same lights are still on with the same codes coming up. Tech is confused as I am.
View 5 RepliesMy son parked the car and I noticed the brake lights were on. After depressing and releasing the pedal a few times the lights go off, then 2 or 3 seconds later, they're back on even when the pedal is released. This happened all of a sudden. I'll pull the switch in the morning and test it, but what else could it be but the switch, right?
View 1 RepliesHad my car parked outside of work for about 12 hours yesterday, and in the NYC cold front, the parking break must have stuck on slightly. When I started to move, despite the fact I'd released the parking break, I received a warning in the MFI that said PARKING BREAK FAILURE TO RELEASE. I pulled the handle again and heard it pop just a little more off. Everything worked great after that. If I hadn't received the alert I probably would have driven off with it on. I'd probably have noticed the hesitation and checked the break again, but the alert was useful. Some of the warnings in the MFI can appear to be a pain at times, but it's amazing how thorough a job VW has done monitoring the cars systems and giving real time information if something doesn't work. You just have to make sure you don't get info overload from it all!!
View 4 RepliesI replaced brake pads on my 05 Prius Monday. The instructions I have say to pull 2 relays and pump and hold the brake pedal until I hear a buzz. This has worked fine the last time I did the brakes. This time I got the Brake, Parking brake,VSC and ABS lights when I powered up.
I did not open the hydraulic system, just push in the pistons. I test drove it then touched the brakes. The left front and right rear rotor/drums were hot but the others were not. Long story short, I want to reset the ABS system.
I replaced my rear brake shoes this past weekend. Immediately after I replaced them, the ABS, VSC, ((!)), and Parking Brake lights came on. I had not read that I should've disconnected the 12V battery before changing the shoes, so I wonder if that's related to the issue. I've read through as many threads here that I could dig up, but I still have questions. Here is what I know so far:
Car Info: 2004, 210k miles, Original 12V battery
Relevant Info: While replacing the shoes, one of the seals(?) (rubber part that slid over the piston(?)) slid off. I put it back on, and have checked for any fluids leaking, and have found none. I may pull the rotors off and check this again, though. There were no DTCs logged prior to the shoe replacement. Battery has shown no signs of dying, although I am going to check the voltage on it after I post this.
I tried jumping the pins, and I get the following flash codes (I tried resetting, but they came back immediately):
ABS: 4-2
VSC: 4-5
((!)): 6-5
I tried finding information on these flash codes, but have found nothing...
My CHS Tank was damaged in an accident a few years ago. I just replaced the CHS tank and the Inverter Coolant Pump within the last 12 months. It is still running when I power the car on and off as it should. I also jumped the fuse with a paperclip to double check that it runs.
My brake fluid levels are fine right now.
Possibly unrelated to the lights, but applying the parking brake is very easy. I don't think I adjusted the star adjuster enough. This is my first time messing with drum brakes, so it's possible I didn't adjust that correctly. Are these self-adjusting, or do I need to go back and adjust them by hand?
So today, I started my Lexus Ls600hl and the lights were flickering and the car wont start. Then on the Dash it has the yellow ! icon and the lcd says Parking brake not available.... The car wont start. I tried disconnecting the battery etc. nothing. Then i jumped the battery and got it to turn on, but it says parking brake not available - see dealer for information. But the car runs fine and everything now - But i don't understand the warning, the parking brake wont engage anymore. I will take it to the dealer tomorrow to see what's wrong.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 Variant V6, 34,000 miles - I was pulling out of a parking spot and the car had no "power". but eventually it kicked in..then when I got home I noticed that the brake lights stayed lit...no problem, I pulled the fuse so the battery wold not run out...put the fuse back in for the ride to the dealer, but a block out and again no power - depressing the gas pedal had no effect. Could these be related? The cars been at the dealer all day, they have no clue so far. I had the fuel pump replaced under recall...could it be some sort of electrical problem.
View 4 RepliesEvery time I speed up or slow down my ABS, TC and parking brake lights turn on and my car beeps at me. I'm assuming that I have a wheel speed sensor going out. But when I check the codes there is nothing and the check engine light never turns on, so how do you tell which one to replace? Or is my problem something different? I drive a 1999.5 vr6 Jetta.
View 10 RepliesSo a little while ago I had my parking brake, ABS, and traction control lights all come on at the same time. There was no change in performance, but they have been on ever since. I looked in to it online and a bunch of people said this was a common problem with damaged tone rings, so I checked them out, but they were fine (as far as I could tell anyway). So I scanned the vehicle using a buddy of mine's Snap On scanner, and it came up with the following code:
B1342 Faulty Control Module
We tried to check the fault code through Mitchell OnDemand but it said that this code was for a faulty Parking Assist Module. I don't have any kind of Parking Assist system on this vehicle however. I looked around a little more and this seems to be a pretty generic code for brake system faults with Fords. Also, if the control module for the ABS is the same one that handles traction control?
I just bought my first Ford its an 1996 f250 powerstroke, and I am having issues with it. Every time I push in the brake both blinkers come on and tail lights and upper parking lights on cab, and when I turn on a blinker everything flashes.
View 8 Replies1998 Passat 1.8t B5 sedan. OEM fog lights up front. No rear fog lights.
I recently upgraded to a "Euro" light switch to get more flexibility with my lights. Put tape on the TFL pin to disable DRLs in OFF Mode. Put tape on the 56d pin to disable DRLs in CITY LIGHTS (Parking Lights) mode. Completely successful -- no DRLs, just as taping the TFL pin on the original light switch accomplished long ago.
BEFORE I did any taping this time, I installed the Euro switch AS IS and tested all of its modes and physical positions:
(1) OFF: No fog light position available (switch knob will not pull out). As expected and okay.
(2) FULL ON Fog lights come on (but who the hell can see them?!?) when switch knob is pulled out one stop into the fog light position -- and the little front fog symbol on the switch lights up. Again, expected and just fine.
(3) CITY LIGHTS (Parking Lights): The fog lights position is physically available by pulling the switch knob out one stop... BUT THE PARKING LIGHTS DO NOT COME ON (regardless of ignition switch position, emergency hand brake position, etc., etc.) And the little fog light symbol on the switch does not light up. (Not surprisingly, pulling the knob further out to the REAR fog light position does nothing either.)
THIS IS NOT GOOD - since with a Euroswitch one ought to be able to manually select and de-select the fog lights while in CITY LIGHTS (Parking Lights) mode!
How to make my FRONT FOG LIGHTS available in Euroswitch CITY LIGHTS (Parking Lights) mode...?
I have a 1995 Bonneville with about 160k miles. I have a problem with the PARKING light on the dash coming on, accompanied by a chime. This happens fairly consistently after first starting the car and driving off, or after coming to a full stop (e.g., stop sign) and then pulling away again. The light and chime come on for only 5 or 10 seconds before stopping all on it's own. One suggestion was that the parking brake pedal was sagging, but pulling up on the pedal does nothing (it's up all the way and doesn't budge). I've also read that a leaking master cylinder may cause the light and alarm to activate, but I can't see any evidence of leaks when I examine the MC.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Elantra GLS. My left rear brake was hanging (wheel was very hot to the touch after driving, while other wheels were not), so I had a friend check the brake pads. We decided to replace the pads and rotors. While doing so, the parking brake seemed stuck in the on position, so I opted to have him disconnect it completely until I could afford to replace it. I had used it for the first time about 2 weeks before I noticed the hot brake problem, so we figured that must have been why the brake was hanging.
My friend replaced the rotors and pads, put some penetrant/lubricant on the piston of the caliper and reassembled the brakes. He did use the special tool to spin the caliper in when putting the pads on, however he didn't know that was necessary and tried to force them in with a C-clamp first.
Now, I seem to have two problems:
1. The left rear brake still hangs sometimes. I will drive the car and when I park it I can feel the heat coming off of the left rear wheel. It is extremely hot, so I know the brake is hanging (even with the parking brake disconnected). What is the problem here? Is the caliper bad? Would replacing the caliper solve the problem? Does the parking brake have to be connected to stop the caliper from hanging up?
2. My second problem is the pulsating of the brakes. I am afraid the rotor is warped because of the heat, or maybe he didn't clean everything well enough before he put the new rotor on. How can I figure out what the problem is? Is there a way to check a rotor to see if it is warped? Could there be another reason I feel the pulsating brakes? By the way, the brake fluid is full.
If the caliper needs to be replaced and I can leave the parking brake disconnected, are there any special instructions my friend should know about before working on this? He does work on a lot of cars and rebuilds cars to sell, so he is pretty knowledgeable. I think the only thing he didn't know about was rotating the piston. I would like to provide him with detailed instructions if necessary.
The red dash light for my parking brake stays on until I jiggle the brake handle, then it stays off until I re-start the car the next time and then it goes on again. Brake fluid is fine.
Appears to be a faulty switch attached to the handle. How do I fix this? Is it a major job? [it's a 1998 Honda Accord]
The problem is I haven't seen one for a recent (2011+) SD. I don't see anything that resembles a rear drum. They look like 2 huge regular disc brakes.
I live on a hill. My old man taught me to put the trans in neutral, autos and manuals, put the ebrake on and make sure it holds the vehicle, then put the trans into park or 1st gear. This way the weight of the vehicle doesn't rest on the transmission.
How do I adjust the Ebrake? It's ALMOST holding the truck, just needs a minor tweak. I don't see the dust cover the write ups described at all. The one that reveals the Star Wheel. Are they different on these years then prior SD's?
Gen 5.5 (2006 LE (57K miles), Rear brake drums and parking brake.
I want to get my parking brake lubricated and rear drums cleaned and adjusted. Is is difficult to lubricate the parking brake?
I plan on getting this done with a Mobile One oil change at a local garage.
I have a 2010 toyota camry that needs a parking brake adjustment. the car still stops with the transmission even if the parking brake pedal is pressed down. I changes the pads in the back and it seems to be a little better, but it's not as good as other Camry's I've been in. Where to look as far as the adjustments go? and possibly how if it's not the usual method.
View 4 RepliesI just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
View 14 Replies