I have a 2009 Pontiac Vibe GT with about 255,000 miles. Over the last several months I've noticed a rattling noise coming from the right front quadrant of the car when driving at highway speeds (60 MPH and up). I also notice that it seems to diminish and/or go away entirely when I drive in the rain. I took it to the dealer and they said I need a new right front wheel bearing/hub.
View 11 Replies'98 Chevy Lumina. Driving at Highway speed, I hear a short rattle. Makes me think of linkages vibrating, from the passenger area. Few minutes later I hear it again. Few minutes later I look down to see me thermostat at 240+. I watch it redline, hold for a few minutes, then the rattle again and my temp goes down to 160 or so. All of this happens at 60 mph, in 45 degree weather.
Rinse, repeat about every 10-15 minutes. I notice that while the engine temp is climbing, I have no hot air from the vents and after the rattle and temp drop I do have hot air. Check the block when I get home and I see the familiar green puddles. So is this: Water pump, the apparent source of the leaks, heater core causing back pressure to leak at the hose, or the ever dreaded head gasket?
My daughter recently had me go for a ride in her car. 96 grand am 4 cyl. The car at highway speeds while making left turn the engine rpm raises. like the transmission is slipping or something. It only does it in a left hand turn above 55 mph. If you let off the gas pedal and the reapply it is normal until you steer into the turn again. only way to get it to not do it is to slow down. What would this be. transmission, wheel bearings, cv joints?
View 1 RepliesOne day, I was on the highway and my Pontiac's speed started dropping. I looked at the temperature gauge, and the temperature was really high. I flushed the coolant system, and changed the gasket. Also the mechanic said that the oil might be leaking after they changed the oil. I paid like $700 for something that has nothing to do with the problem (I paid for a spark plug, ignition wires, fuel filter, and an oxygen sensor). After they changed the oil, oil started leaking all over my driveway, which didn't happen before. It also looked like coolant was leaking out. None of this happened before I got my oil changed with these guys.
After I changed the gasket, the car was running smoothly. But today, the same thing happened again, and I don't know if it's the thermostat, or water pump, or oil leaking, or coolant. The mechanic always suggests to fix something that doesn't have to do with the problem. I don't have much money on hand, so I need to only fix what has to do with the temperature rising, and I need my car to run.
I drive a 2003 Pontiac Vibe GT (6 speed Manual) and I have noticed that when im in 6th gear going highway speeds, I have an RPM of about 3K. For this model I feel this value is high and im worried about engine wear and fuel economy. I'm not sure about the other gears, but from my knowledge of other cars in the same weight category, less horsepower and 4-speed automatic gearbox, my car should not have such high RPM.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2011 corolla S with 32.5k on it, so my 3yr/36k warranty is running up in a few months. my car from day one (that I had it, at 17k)has had an annoying rattle in the headliner ahead of the sunroof, near the overhead lights. If I press up, even slightly on the lip of the headliner around the front of the sunroof cutout, it goes away. Dealer thinks its normal and says repairs wouldn't be covered under warranty.
The second is a new one, when I go over a bump in the road at highway speeds, there is a squeak coming from the center of the dashboard, at first I thought it was a strut, but after driving back and forth on the same stretch of road for half an hour, I found it to be coming from somewhere behind the radio. Dealer says, squeaks will happen as a car ages.
Do I need to take it to a new dealer (about an hour away) or can I fix this myself?
Was driving on the highway and all of a sudden my mph gauge just drops and my car slows down. This is the first time it happened and it didn't do it again after I got off the highway. Other things it has been doing: eating gas, shifting hard, and doesn't want to get up to speed. Not sure if they are related to this new problem or not.
View 2 Replies2000 Passat Wagon, 4-motion, 116,000 miles. I have a clunk/rattle in the front right wheel, and the clunk manifests itself when I roll over a bump. I don't get the same noise from the left side.
For example, turning right into a parking lot and rolling over the curb creates a clunk that I do not hear from the left side. Rolling over a manhole cover - clunk.
I've had it in for several other non-related service visits, and have asked the tech's to diagnose. Most recently, I got sold a new steering rack to resolve the issue, but it did not.
Again - I just replaced the steering rack. The techs have eliminated ball-joints and control arms as the source.
I have on '06 V6. This slight rattle/vibration only happens during the first 5 minutes of driving, and only starts AS am driving down a slight hill from our development. It doesn't seem mechanical. It just sounds like an interior piece is loose. It seems to be coming from the center console or passenger seat area. It doesn't happen everyday. Once I am on the highway, flat area or after a few minutes it's gone. I have shuffled everything around in the center storage area, glove compartment, seat belt - nothing.
View 3 RepliesI have a rattle coming from the drivers front area. I'm not 100% sure but I think it might go away in warm weather. I had a tech drive along with me once a few weeks ago, but we couldn't hear it that afternoon. Yesterday afternoon it warmed up to around 65ish and I couldn't hear it. I only hear it at slow speeds (5-10mph) and only when rolling over light bumps, anything moderate to heavy and it's not discernible.
This is my first try at recording it and I think it sounds a bit less squeaky more rattley in person. Maybe more like a lost screwdriver in the a body panel or engine bay or something Or a loose strut? Or a loose rotor? (doesn't seem possible) Or the short shifter bouncing? (I have a forge SS, and once I was poking around looking for something loose in the engine bay and I jiggled that and the sound seemed close, but I don't see how that would be it.
Some good examples in the clip are at 15s, 28s, 52s, and 1:02s
[URL] ....
Our 2012 SE has an intermittent rattle somewhere in the rear of the Tiguan when riding on even moderately rough pavement. Ultimately I'll have to crawl around back there while my wife drives up and down a rough road to locate the rattle, I guess, What was the source of the rattle.
View 16 RepliesIn the last few months my car has been making this crazy medium-weight rattle sometimes, meaning it doesn't sound like something really light doing it and it doesn't sound like something heavy doing it either. Its "history" went like this:
Noticed this sound that really seemed to be coming from the driver-side front, in the wheel well area, checked it out. Nothing obvious. Had the front of the car on ramps a couple of times, poking, prodding, grabbing/shaking things. All is tight. Then had it on stands; same routine, same results. It got a bit worse over time, though it doesn't ALWAYS do it! Sometimes it's quiet forever (on 90-minute drive last week, nothing). This evening, out for 20 minutes, lotsa racket. So it comes and goes. Nothing under the hood seems amiss, either.
At first it seemed to only be present when moving, like something rubbing or dragging on a tire. Nope. Then it seemed to be related to engine speed, like some under-hood component checking out and starting to fuss. That seems not to be the case anymore, either. Now, I've been able to discern that it's something come loose and VIBRATING (I'm pretty sure -- it just sounds like that), but I don't know what yet. I now hear it at idle, sitting at a light (sometimes) and it's definitely worse on rougher pavement than on smoother pavement.
A while back I realized that it must not be coming from outside and under the car after all, because putting the window/s down results in not being able to hear it at all, rather than being able to hear it better. This is true even at 5 mph, rolling along on a quiet street entirely for diagnostic purposes.
Earlier this evening (during the 20-minute out n' about), I note that it's not coming from the driver side anymore; it's more like the whole front of the car. Really seems to be under the dash. When I first figured out that it's NOT outside/underneath, I took off the panel under that side (three Torx screws) and poked around. Didn't find anything obviously loose, etc. I've ruled out the glovebox, its door, and the center console, by holding on to each while rolling. The sound is not quite in the correct spot to be from any of these, either.
I have a 2003 Volvo C70 that I've owned since 2004. In February, I ordered struts for the front with all the trimmings, (spring seat, strut mount, bump stop, etc) from FCP Euro. The struts were Sachs 553-058, which are supposed to be as good if not better than the original struts. I installed them myself, meticulously following the instructional video FCP publishes on YouTube. Installation went very smoothly. Afterwards, I noticed a rattle/knock coming from the right front when I drove over a bump or rough area.
I took it to a local tire/brake place that I have a good bit of confidence. After driving the car, the guy says, "You gotta bad strut!" Called FCP. They sent me a new strut. I installed it and sent the other back. Sounded a LOT better—for about two weeks. Now I am hearing the sound on both sides. I took it to a very reputable Volvo mechanic, I have used since the warranty expired. He drove it, confirmed the sound was not normal. We put it on the lift and he checked everything on the front suspension and was stumped. He said there was nothing wrong with my installation, no problem with the suspension.
Okay, FCP has an unconditional satisfaction guarantee, so I could replace these with a more expensive strut for say $50 more, but is the problem with the struts? I would hate to have to do this installation again and still have the same problem.
'03 C70 Convertible LT110,000 mileswell-maintained, great-running car
After driving our 2013 Passat for 215 miles, we noticed that there was a rattling noise coming from the left front wheel area but only at slow speeds (under 10 mph). The noise disappeared at higher speeds. Today, we took the car to the dealership but they could not find anything wrong.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra Limited and have noticed a rattle in the front driver's door area near the Dash. It's hard to pinpoint where exactly it is coming from. The rattle can be heard even on smoothish roads and sounds like a little screw or something else is loose or rubbing against something. I checked that sunglasses holder and made sure nothing was in there but the rattle is still there.
View 55 RepliesLost all acceleration yesterday while driving at highway speed. Tire pressure light came on also large warning sigh and check engine . Had been stuck in bumper to bumper traffic before this with AC on.Gas pedal to the floor but no acceleration. I pulled over and shut off car. When I tried to restart the lights mentioned above went out Except the check engine, NOW all the brake warning lights are on in a yellow color including the emergency brake.Brakes do stop the car (had to push it onto the tow truck) Car comes on but does not display the READY sign.
View 7 RepliesMy 2009 sonata started having issues with slight up and down accelerations while cruising and the check engine light would come on Then during start up the engine would accelerate up and down about 1500 rpms. I have taken it to two dealers neither could find anything wrong and said their was no record of an event on the computer. Now the car is stalling while driving, once at highway speed. It has happened three time this week. After coming to a stop, I wait a few minutes and the car starts up like their is nothing wrong. The engine light comes on for a while.
View 9 RepliesSo I was driving on the HWY in 6th gear cruising at about 60, and I go to speed up and when my RPMS hit about 3k or over it feels like I am pressing in the clutch, like my RPMS are going up but I am hardly gaining any speed.
View 24 RepliesMy truck is a 1997 nissan pickup with. 254,000 miles. Check engine light come on. Only when I am at highway speed. As long as I am in city traffic, nothing I have a code scanner code (PO302) number 2 cylinder misfiring. I change spark plugs and wires and dist cap. But check engine light came back on. I put in shop they claim that they can't find nothing wrong. I guess I need to find a new mechanic.
View 3 RepliesStarter driving this morning and heard what one could describe as a metallic rattle from somewhere at the front end: like a stone tossed in a can. Stopped and did a brief visual inspection but did not see anything. Shifted to N and revved the engine all quiet. Started driving faster, the sound went away. Found some old threads about brake pads rattling. could that be it?
View 17 RepliesI have an 04 Elantra GT and have been noticing a jerkiness when driving at a constant speed on the highway. I haven't noticed it around town or while accelerating. I also have noticed that when I disengage the clutch on the highway, the engine sometimes doesn't respond right away, or it even may surge. This has happened when exiting the highway when I disengage the clutch. The engine will slow, then speed up close to 3000 rpms.
I also had a check engine light come on and couple months ago. The code indicated that the upstream O2 sensor was bad. I took it out and cleaned it, but didn't replace it. Is this a likely culprit for this set of symptoms? If so, how can I test the sensor to be sure? I heard that I could disconnect it and run the car and see if the surging lessens, but wasn't sure if that was a good thing to do.