Pontiac - Parisienne :: 1985 - Missing / Hesitates For A Second When Go From A Complete Stop
May 16, 2011
My pontiac is missing, from a complete stop, she hesitates a second before she goes.............and in the driving, I can feel a misfiring, not a noise, but it's not smooth, it's hesitating as I'm driving her too. We have replaced the fuel filter, air filter, had a tune up & trans serviced, it seemed to be better for a while, but now it's back.... She's an oldie, but a goodie, and we want to keep her...
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I've had my mechanic work on this issue (the engine misses), and for the past few months thought the issue was resolved.... Truck is 27 years old and has only 75K actual miles. Here's what I have done.
Installed rebuilt carburetor - 2009New plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor - 2010Adjusted carburetor, timing, and choke - Feb 2012
I normally drive it every couple days, yet during last winter it set up for a couple weeks with 10% ethanol fuel. In early spring, the engine started missing while driving (about 1/3 of the time). After taking to the shop a couple times, my mechanic basically gave up. I believe it's time for a new mechanic. I may also give up and just get a newer truck, but not quite ready yet.
I suspected water in the tank, knowing that ethanol can attract moisture, so i ran the tank dry then bought 5 gallons ethanol free fuel (i live in the country where we can still find it). Engine started, ran great for a few months, and i thought i had solved the problem...until yesterday, when the engine started doing the same thing again just as it did when the problem originally started.
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85 ranger 2.3 fuel injected misses at high acceleration. Fairly new plugs and wires, just replaced the timing belt, pretty new fuel pump in tank, new fuel pressure regulator and pcv. It idles well, starts up and drives pretty well until you get it in 4th and really bog it down. Could be timing issues but I'm pretty sure I did everything right when I put the belt in. What it could be? I know when the tank fuel pump went out, it did something similar for a while...
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I started up the car this morning and drove it just fine, but the drivers door wouldn't open when getting out. so i took apart the side panel to fix the latch along with the electric lock switch that also didn't work to unlock the door. when trying to push the unlock button, I noticed my deck stopped playing music, then cut back on. i tried again, and then it cut off once more, but this time it didnt cut back on..
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My car is a 1985 Pontiac Firebird
So I was drive around 45mph when I noticed that the accelerator stopped responding, it didn't make any obvious noises. I hadn't run out of gas and the engine was still running. I started pulling over to the side of the road and noticed that the power steering and the power brakes were no longer working. I got it to the side of the road and shut the engine off, I waited a minute and tried to start it again, the engine turned over but wouldn't start. I tried this a few more times with the same result.
I can't afford to take it to a mechanic so I need to figure out what's wrong and try to fix it myself. The car has a slow oil leak. As recently as a few months ago I replaced the battery and had to replace the alternator, since then it has been running fine. I checked the belts and all of them are still there, a friend of mine told me to wiggle the pulleys and make sure they were all tight, I did so and found nothing wrong with them and none of the belts are loose. What could cause all of these things to go wrong at once?
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I have an 85 Firebird V6, 2.8L, tuned port injection, we bought it new and I have changed the oil every 2000 miles, it still runs great, except… The fuel pump gave out, I replaced it with a new Bosch, in the process I tried to replace the fuel filter, the line was rusted, it broke. I had to replace about 2 ft. of metal line with nylon tube, I also had to install a fuel filter with quick disconnect fittings, the filter is not the original but some generic because the original metal threaded fittings are gone. It runs great up to about ½ throttle, if I try to accelerate more than that it loses power and almost dies. If I turn off the ignition and restart the engine it runs fine for a while, full power all the way to full throttle.
I’ve noticed that if I keep the fuel tank full the problem happens less often.My theory is that the fuel pump is aerating because of not enough restriction in the fuel filter because it isn’t designed for that car, if I keep the tank full it is harder to start the aeration and stopping the pump and restarting it stops the aeration for a while. If I could get a fuel pressure gauge and be able to see it while I’m driving that would be great, but how? Also, what does the fuel pressure regulator really do? Does the fuel pump run all the time the engine is running? It also sounded like an electrical problem but it idles well and it is very smooth up to about ½ throttle. Could I just have a bad pressure regulator or does my theory sound like it makes sense?
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I have recently purchased an 04 F250 crew cab with the 6.0 power stroke, it has a cold air intake, 4inch exhaust from the turbo back and has a program in it but programmer didn't come with the truck. When I sit at a traffic light and go to leave on a green light the truck kind of hesitates or acts like it's missing out( maybe loading up) shoots out black smoke then runs fine, it doesn't do it at all the stop lights but does get irritating. If I get it flashed back to stock settings will the truck run normal with all the upgrades?
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I have had this for a year now. When I first heard it, I thought someone threw something at my vehicle. I would stop then be at the light then about a few seconds to a minute it sounds like a solenoid kicks out or kicks in... its pretty loud, my passengers even question it. I have taken it to the dealership 7 times now and I am getting frustrated as they do not hear anything each time. As I drive with them it doesnt do it... it seems it does it sporatically... Sometimes it does it after I have exited the vehicle and walking off, it goes through its normal electrical noises then clunk clunk... Strange. I have recorded a sound clip but they said they still have to hear it themselves and they believe it has something to do with the elecrical breaking system but they dont want to swap it out as its an expensive part as they want to make sure of it first... I think I am going to take it to another dealer..
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Why my Golf beeps 3 times whenever I take off from a complete stop?? No dash lights, other than ABS... The tach isn't currently working either.
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I just recently bought an R about a month ago. I am having a problem with my brakes. It seems that every time I hit the brakes and come to a complete stop my brakes scream with this annoying squeaky sound ... My car has a little over 800 miles haven't driven hard, or dogged the car just been taking it nice and smooth for a proper break in.
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Whenever I am in sport mode i shift into first prior to stopping, but when in normal drive mode the car comes to a complete stop before shifting into first is this normal???
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When coming to a complete stop, the engine feels a little hesitation and RPM go down then up as shown on video. RPM go down then up twice sometimes at full stop. [URL] .....
History : December, car engine died. Replaced coils and spark plugs. Issues with RPM at stop started.
Two weeks ago, engine light stay on and warning light with triangle on, Diagnose a misfire. They replace Mass Air Assembly.
Today, they replaced the crank case valve Assembly to fix the issue but continues to be the same. The same valve was replace four months ago.
Is this normal and according to the dealer it is working fine. Bad coils?
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My freshly rebuilt C6 with Transgo shift kit and Hughes 2500 stall converter won't downshift until I'm nearly at a dead stop. My Cruisomatic did the same thing in stock form. I roll up to an intersection and the light is green. I slow way down to negotiate the turn. I then throttle when headed straight and the tranny is still in Drive. It does the same thing when slowing way down for speed bumps. Could the shift kit or stall converter affect downshifts?
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Just took my V6 03 XLE to a mechanic to change the timing belt, water pump, and spark plugs. Runs great, like it always did, and for the record I just got to about 80,000 miles a week or two ago.
One problem after I got this all done a couple of hours ago. Every time I try to accelerate from a complete stop there's this gurgling noise that sounds like it's coming from the inside of the dash or maybe under the dash.
It only happens as soon as I accelerate from a complete stop for about 2-3 seconds, and then it seems to go away.
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I have noticed that my car do a noise when I brake and it come to a halt. It's hard to describe, but it's sound like "put". A little bit like a shock noise, but my shock doesn't make any noise when I go over bump. I had a loaner car while my car was in for rattles, and there was no noise like that. What it could be? It's not very loud, but still I notice it.
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So, after I lower with BC Coil-over and 20" wheels (Stagger). I feel my car vibrate at a complete stop and in Drive. But when I put in neutral it stop the vibrate. When I take off from a complete stop is fine no vibrate but when I let go of the gas and let it cruise, it vibrate....
AWD GS, after lowering and with stagger wheels but it seem like the driving vibrate after after I put these wheels on. I didn't notice when i have my stock wheels on. or was it just me and 1SLOGS? I did balance all 4 tires again, I have all the hub-centric rings on all 4 wheels too.
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I have been hearing a sound on and off now for months that happens right before the car comes to complete stop and sounds like the ABS 'chatter' sound like you hear if they come on in snowy roads. Problem is roads are dry. Literally last 1 second. Will happen when stopping hard or slowly. Maybe once or twice a week. I can't reproduce it happen no matter how hard I try. Brakes are in good shape as are tires and it isn't like I am locking them up or anything. No ABS light or traction control light showing. No codes thrown either.
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I've been dealing with this for over a year. 97 s-10 (4.3, 4wd, 5spd) always wants to keep revving. When I put it in neutral and coast, the rpms rise. When in gear, it powers itself down the road even when I'm off the gas. The part that really gets me, is that it will keep revving in neutral until the vehicle comes to a COMPLETE STOP. Then, it drops to a nice idle within 2-3 seconds. I don't understand what the momentum of the vehicle has to with the revving of the engine when its in neutral.? I replaced the IAC valve (and set the pintle) and tried to clean up everything I could. It seemed to be better for only a little while. Faulty new part? Is the IAC getting "gummed up" quickly because of something else?
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Now that the weather has warmed up, I'm using AC once in a while. Whenever it is running, when I come to a complete stop, I hear a groan that lasts for about 3 seconds. It vibrates through the brakes a bit. This is only once the car has stopped, and only when AC is on. It goes away after a couple seconds, and is guaranteed to come back on the next time I stop the car. Is this just the compressor cycling on and off?
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It's been two weeks since the track and the brake still squeals during the last couple feet before the a complete stop (from 10MPH or so to 0), is this normal? I am on stock pads, how long they last typically? I have 32k miles on the car and that was the first time I track the car ever.
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I notice the brakes are very grabby right before you come to a complete stop. This seems to occur more when this brakes are cold. Is this typical with the gen 2's? Mine in a 2005 if that makes a difference. So far with 2k miles on the car I'm not a big fan of the brakes, but everything else I love.
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