Pontiac - Metro :: 1990 - No Reverse And Will Shift From 1st To 3rd When Car Is Cold
Sep 6, 2014
I have a 1990 Pontiac firefly with a 3 cyl automatic. It will not go into reverse and will shift 1st to 3rd when the car is cold. once it is warm it shifts fine. it is puzzling. When it is warm shifts are crisp solid. I am thinking it is not worn disks or band. I would like to get this fixed before winter sets in. I have a little more info now. If I shift into low it will shift into second, So I now have all three gears but still no reverse until it warms up. I don't seem to be getting any takers, and this is so odd.
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Our 2009 Santa Fe AWD Limited shifts hard first thing in the morning when my wife shifts into reverse to back out of our parking space. This is a real hard THUD kind of shift, where the car jerks. After that, all shifting is normal. We don't have any other problems with the transmission when driving.
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I bought 95 metro 3 cyc. 5 sd. bad tranny. The clutch is shot spins when put in 4th w e-brake on the tranny will not shift in to 3rd or 5th gear. Seller also gave me a different tranny says 2nd is shot and also a rebuild kit ( bearings,seals,secniorz) same as the one in the photo from dr bills tranny rebuild. What are my options for the tranny not going in to gear and what the easy way I should go.
I've never rebuild a tranny but I've done just a bout everything else to a car u can think of from rebuild motors to brakes and bodywork. Mainly want to no what the problem is with it not going in to gear. I know I will have to split case to find out for sure and I am going to start with the one that not in car. That supposedly 2nd don't work.
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Bought a 2012 Azera a couple of weeks ago. When the engine is cold and I shift into reverse there's a loud bang and the whole car shakes. Feels as if I've been run into, or the transmission is going to fall out. I have also noticed some delayed upshifting (doesn't accelerate for a second but then really takes off). My 2007 Sonata did that a little, so I thought maybe it was a Hyundai thing, but maybe not.
My main concern is the BANG into reverse. The dealer said they can't get me in for several days, and that they don't have loaners, but they "might" be able to get me something to drive while they look at it. Honestly, the service guy sounded skeptical, and I guess I imagined a little better/faster response for such a new car. I'm almost afraid to drive it right now, the bang is so violent.
I'm pretty upset about this, it's my first really nice car. Has some sort of transmission issue with a new Hyundai? Anything in particular I should look for, say, etc.?
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1990 Lemans GSE 4 cyl 2 ltr gas. Starts quick but in temps less than 60 will not idle. When I turn lights, blower, wipers, flashers, fog lights etc on - it raises RPM's which allow this rascal to idle by itself. When warm, I can start turning off lights & stuff one at a time. Summer time it starts andidles normal. Once warm car runs smooth, although at times may chug (in witch case I just turn on my lights & it goes away). Have replaced: alternator (twice), idle speed control sensor (twice), spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotar, & computer box. This thing has been to 3 shops & 1 internet 'fixit' site.
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I bought a 95 geo metro it ran for a few days then stop running. i have replaced about everything, new plugs, spark plug wires, sensors carborator etc. it seems like maybe it could be the timing but timing seems on. it wont turn over.
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Car has 252k miles runs ruff after engine warms up, looses power, if I give more gas, car will sputter, but rev up to 5k engine smoothes out. This situation constantly comes and goes.
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My beautiful 1990 Volvo 240 will not shift into 4th gear! It is an automatic. The OD light will go on and off and I can hear it click when I turn it on. I just noticed that when getting on the highway it seemed as if the RPM was a little too high so I started paying more attention to which gear it was in and noticed today that it stays in 3rd gear.
I have already replaced the fuse #11. With the OD seemingly working fine, should I mess with the relay?
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1990 F150 2wd, E40AOD tranny. Will not shift past 2nd. Reverse works. Does not have compression braking. Started when pulling a empty trailer up a hill on the interstate.
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I have a 1990 chevy K2500 5.7 350 tbi with 255000 miles on the body and engine. transmission replaced at 200000. When I drive long enough for the truck to get hot (i.e., 10 minutes or so) if i put it in reverse to back into a parking space or my driveway, it just shuts off. i have had fuel filter and fuel pump replaced but what could cause this? it will stay on if I don't drive long enough to get hot.
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I have a 1990 chevy lumina 2.5 L 4 cyl. 100,000 miles....The car recently started chugging while in drive and will not accelerate correctly, when I do get it to 55 mph there's still chugging, Ive replaced the fuel filter, spark plug and wires, fuel system clean, new battery, there is a inch crack in the exhaust manifold on the front of the engine, not sure if that would make me lose power to accelerate, the car idles fine, but chugs when put in drive, and will occasionally die when put in reverse....
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My truck out of nowhere will start to idle low and die when put in reverse or drive then on other days sometimes it will start and run right. I got the code 44 witch it could be a o2 sensor but tomorrow I'm getting my catalytic converter took off and run straight pipe do I still need a o2 sensor without a catalytic converter or what's causing lean exhaust?
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So, I bought the truck used and everything about this truck is great minus the shifting difficulties in first. With the truck at a dead stop, the clutch depressed, and the shifter in neutral it can be near impossible to shift into 1st (it's possible with a lot - emphasis on a lot - of force). No grinding, clashing, knocking in the shift knob - it just wont go into gear. I can shift into 2nd-5th and reverse without too much difficulty. If the truck is in motion, once the vehicle gets between 2-5mph I can easily downshift into 1st. However, if I shift out of 1st and let the truck sit for, say, 5 seconds it is often very challenging to get the truck back into 1st.
I have tried to look up this problem online with limited success. What I found was it could be caused by:- something wrong with the clutch installation- a need to bleed the clutch (it's hydraulic and, although the reservoir is full, the fluid is a bit dirty)- perhaps a faulty clutch master cylinder- play in the clutch linkage- a broken spring in the pressure plate- a bearing that is starting to go out- worn synchros in 1st.
I am a machinist, not a mechanic, so it's hard for me to evaluate these ideas (beyond the cost associated with each). Given my limited knowledge of transmissions and my good mechanic friend's opinion, I think it's a broken spring in the pressure plate.
1990 Toyota Pickup 4x4 manual transmission. This is the original transmission in the truck, it has not been rebuilt (but has been maintained with regular fluid changes), and has a tad over 158,000 miles on it.
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A140E transaxle issue... I have what I surmise is a direct clutch engagement issue. It takes (literally) 3 or MINUTES to engage reverse. And obviously the 2 -3 shift is slow also. It acts like there is a restriction in the passage to the direct piston. I rebuilt about 5 years ago, so am familiar with the teardown.
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My 1990 Honda Accord is stuck in "sport", and won't shift past second gear. The button isn't stuck, but the "S" light stays on.
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I have a beautiful 2002 Pontiac Bonneville SSEI with just over 100k miles on it. I've been saving for a new set of tires and a new regulator for the rear window. The window suffers from the "pop and drop" syndrome but I have instructions on how to fix it myself when I can get the parts.
Yesterday, I started her up to go to my second job when I discovered I had no reverse. In drive, I could just creep forward at 3000 rpm. Fixing a transmission is probably the worst case scenario I could imagine happening.
I'm left with two options: Either find something simple I can do myself to get it moving again or get what I can for it and use the proceeds to buy a piece of metal to get back and forth to work.
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A friend of a friend has a 1990 Escort 1.9L automatic with a TBI setup. It has a random no-start condition that only seems to act up when its cold outside (below 20 F). I've only seen it act up once with minimal testing equipment, so I'm digging for answers.
The injector fires normally and flooring the pedal goes into clear-flood mode as it should. It has spark, but sounds out of time. It will attempt to fire unless the pedal is floored long enough to take fuel away. Starting fluid in addition to the fuel makes minimal difference, but results in intake backfires when you stop cranking. After a random amount of cranking, it will eventually fire and then the issue goes away completely.
Once it fired, I was able to shut it down and restart it indefinitely with no hesitation. While running, it shown no signs of being out of time, vacuum leaks, etc. I have very little experience with the EEC system, but friends suggest a TFI module. A weak or mistimed spark seems to be the cause, but I'd like a second opinion. I shook and moved every wire I could find and checked the TFI pins for corrosion - no change.
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My 1990 f250 a/c has freon, and the compressor runs when i turn on the a/c but i get no cold air.
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99 grand prix gt. 4t65e trans. 170k miles. way above avg for life expectancy. 1-2 shift is ok. Will not shift into 3rd. If you keep increasing vehicle speed to about 45 or so, it will shift into 3rd and than immediately into 4th. 45mph is about 4k rpm. I can see the tach drop to 3k rpm for 1 sec or so and than it drops to 2k approx. It will stay in OD and does not slip. If I stay at 50mph or so and punch the gas, I can make it shift into 3rd gear and it will stay in 3rd as long as i give it 2/3 gas. Once i left off the gas it goes back to OD. Any theories why it wont hit 3rd on the way up but will easily drop from 4th down to 3rd whenever I want? I know, its time for a rebuild.
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I have a 1990 3.1L, multiport fuel injection (NOT sequential FI), which runs very well most of the time. However, when I cold start it runs rough (misfire) for about 1 minute (no throttle) or until acclerated. The is no misfire when running normal, but it might be running a little rough when stopped at a traffic light (in Drive, foot on brake).
I put new plugs and wires on, but it did not affect this problem.
I am not using coolant, or oil, the plugs that were removed were somewhat worn, enough that I expected to notice a difference after they were changed.
I have not yet (1) cleaned the MAF, (2) checked carefully for vacuum leaks, (3) checked for leaking injectors.
Since this is a 1990, OBDI, I can't say which cylinder is misfiring or how the fuel trims look etc.
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I have a 1990 F250 4x4. Whenever its below freezing outside, I get this whistling sound coming from the rear of the truck at very low speeds, like when I'm slowing down to stop at a light, or when I'm turning a corner. Pressing either the break or gas pedal seems to make no immediate difference in the sound. I took it to my mechanic, but it wasn't cold enough that day for him to hear it. But he did say that it is probably just that the rear differential needs servicing. Okay, so I drained and replaced the differential oil and gasket myself the next weekend. Next cold day came around and the whistling is still there.
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