Pontiac - Grandprix :: Rattling Or Sputtering Accompanied With Sudden Power Loss Then Engine Shuts Off
Feb 21, 2014
Ok here's the problem. I have a 2003 grand prix se 3.1 and a 1998 grand prix gtp series II sc. Both have the exact same problem running and both had overheating issues prior to. I can start either one on a given day while cold and drive them as if nothing is wrong. But soon as either one hits operating temp, I start to hear what sounds like a rattling or sputtering like sound from under the hood, accompanied with a sudden loss of power and then the engine shuts off. Now yesterday I attempted further diagnostics with the se model GP. I let it idle rather than driving it this time, and it ran perfectly fine for about 20 mins, started to make the aforementioned noise, I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm and it kept it from cutting off and smoothed, but the second I let up, it was off and wouldn't restart till it was cooled off. Same goes for the gtp. I'm really stumped on this one.
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My 2007 Pontiac Grand Prix loses power steering fluid within a couple of days of having the power steering fixed. I've gotten a new power steering unit, new hoses, had some kind of treatment put in to try to stop leaks, and nothing has worked. Every mechanic that's looked at it says there's no leak that they can see. What the heck is going on?
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What are the symptoms of a bad catalytic converter? I have noticed for a while now, that my car has lost power. I changed the wires and spark plugs thinking that, that was my problem. I don't have the engine light on, would a clogged cat turn my engine light on. I have a 2005 gp.
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Car: 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GTPEngine: 3.8L SuperchargedMileage: 94,300 miles
Issue : Usually after driving the car for a long period of time (approx 20 miles or more), Ill begin to hear a grinding coming from the front of the car. The grinding/ groaning can be felt in the gas pedal as well. Depending how hard I hit the gas the frequency increases. I am not sure if this is associated with the grinding, but i noticed that when I turn sharply and go easy on the gas and progressively add pressure the car will cut out until i cut straighten the wheel. Then all the power I requested is applied all at once.
What the locals think :
CV Shafts - Sears told me the first time i went to get them checked that my CV shaft boot was a little loose, suggested changing it. Then I went back two weeks later and they denied saying that and said my cv shafts were fine. (talk about confusing)
Wheel Bearings - Someone I know said my wheel bearing could be slipping or my traction control could be on its way out, so i replaced both front bearings.
Tune up - Someone suggested it could be mis-firing, with it coming up on 100,000 miles, i did a tune up. (plugs, wires, coil packs)
Transmission - Someone said the transmission could be going bad. So i did a flush and inspected the fluid, no shavings or any sign of extreme wear. (car shifts great too.)
Clogged Catalytic converter - the cat was clogged, two new 02 sensors and a new cat didn't even solve the issue I am describing, but it does have more power now.
Throttle Body - Someone said it could be a dirty throttle body....so i had that cleaned also.
And finally, some electric temperature sensor - someone said it wasn't getting the right fuel mixture, so i replaced the sensor to remedy that.
Fuel pressure was also tested to ensure the fuel pump was doing its job, everything checked out great
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So, last December, I was sitting at a stop light, when my engine suddenly started rattling. "Check Gauges" light on, ZERO oil Pressure..
Took car to mechanic, he removed the valve covers, and scoped out the timing chains with a camera, and found everything intack, and no chips out of the timing guides (125K miles on the engine). no sludge, nothing.
Engine runs fine (for 5 seconds at a time) no issues. Removed Intake to check the Oil Pump Drive Gear, all is well.
Removed Oil Pan Inspection Plate, All is well. ZERO plastic chips in the oil pan from timing guides, ZERO sludge, all is clean.
Back up to top of engine, pull the Oil Pump Drive Shaft using needle nose pliers from the top of the engine. BUT!!!
Only the top 8 inches of the Oil Pump Drive Shaft comes out! The bottom gear is not present! Is it still in the oil pump?
OK, so I need a new oil pump drive shaft. no Problem.. BUT: how do I get the broken oil shaft out of the engine before I put a new one in? Use a magnet? Rubber hose?
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So my buddy was driving my truck and boat through Amarillo and suddeny had a buck/surge accompanied with black smoke. I left my torque app with him. Its throwing codes: P2287,2285, and P????(fault log got erased and I'm going from memory) concerning #8 cyl. I got there today and we noticed coolant leak on left side. Its small and I cant tell the source, but it is wetting the exhaust manifold on left side. Also now its blowing white, black, grey smoke. At idle its more white/ grey. Under load it mixes a little blck in. I only had time to check the ICP on torque and at idle its bouncing from 0.9 to 1.1. Unplugged ICP ran about the same. Still started and idled fine with white smoke. No oil in ICP or connector.
So I'm no expert but I think ive got a bad icp and something else going on. I didn't pull the egr valve and look so no idea on the cooler ,yup syill have the cooler. Degas has a small amount of white residue directly under the cap but no puking. Degas is just below the max line (on the sticker).
One other note only code originally was the 2287 last night. Now this am there was the other codes ref'd above.
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I have passat 2007 2.0T , about 98000km. A few months ago, my vehicle randomly has hiccup with EPC light when I put on the pedal. Each times i put on the pedal my vehicle hiccups and EPC light on and all goes away when i put off my foot from the pedal. It happened randomly, so i went to vw dealership twice. They keep saying they could not find any problem. Coz as i said it happens randomly. I paid diagnostic fee but still the problem remains.
Unfortunately today i had the same issue hiccup like crazy with epc and engine lights. Also on the highway my baby 2 years old was with me when i drove, my vehicle lost power all the sudden, all most i involved an accident with following vehicle. I started the engine, vehicle moves but with the problem. I feel wheels do not spin properly or transmission randomly. What the problem is?
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Lately having the following issues with my Tig.
When starting up the engine on cold start (or after having the car sit for about 30 minutes) after about 10 - 20 seconds; pretty much right after first acceleration the car all of a sudden looses all power. RPM fall down even when accelerating. Accelerating more only let's the engine stall more.
5-10 seconds later the engine functions normal again.... What problem could that be ?
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Well zipping along the highway tonight, sitting on 100KM/h, and all of a sudden the engine loses all power. As luck would have it a fuel station was just closing (the only one for half an hour either side) and kept the lights on so I could have a look. The starter is nice and lively, and the engine is trying to fire, but just wouldn't. I asked a mate of mine in town to come out and give me a hand troubleshooting.
As it turns out, when the ignition switch is set to the "ON" position, normally the fuel pump primes the lines. It's only doing it intermittently for some strange reason, and not making it past the fuel filter (despite the filter being new). The temporary buzzing in the engine bay when the car is switched off is gone now too.
Now my question is - does this sound like fuel pump? I'm only used to the older fuel pumps in carburetor vehicles, not these fingle fangle electric things!
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I have a Prius 2005 with an Engineer 4kwh kit installed [v4 bms]. Lately, I have experienced several instances where the Prius suddenly looses much of it's traction power and the engine races, and the red triangle and engine service lights go on at the dashboard. This happens with the kit turned on, and often after a few kit on/off cycles to get more ev mode. The Prius battery is sometimes low, sometimes not, when this happens. Not sure if it also occurs with the kit off.
The Prius seems to retain some traction power up-down by the throttle pedal, but most power goes missing. On the other hand the engine races and does not seem to power the wheels or vary by throttle. When I pull off the road using brakes normally, and turn off the car/engine and restart [kit now off], the car seems to reset and can resume driving normally, but the error code lights [triangle-engine] lights stay on.
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Recently I noticed that my car is whining when I'm driving. It occurs while I'm in gear driving, not only when I'm turning. I can also hear it when I'm not accelerating and I'm coasting. The only time I don't hear it is when the car is idle or in park.
2002 Pontiac Grand Prix with about 152k miles on it
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Turning on headlights cuts engine. Sometimes won't start at all even with lights off. All dash lights go out as well. I.e. when auxiliary is on only radio works, turning on headlights shuts off radio. Recently got a used alternator. Could not find any issues pertaining to the alternator. New battery as well.
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The car runs fine for several miles/minutes, suddenly the tach starts to climb, up a jump, then up again. This is when the engine starts to run really rough and I pull off the road, let the car cool down and make it the rest of the way to work (about 15 miles).
Here is what I have done: Radiator flush and fill; Oil and filter change; Cleaned EGR and replaced gasket; put in new spark plugs; changed the transmission filter and oil; replaced the O2 upstream and downstream sensors; replaced the thermostat 195 to 180; replace the coolant temp sensor.
The check engine light does not come on (except on start-up check sequence), so it is working. Their are no trouble codes (other than when I removed the downstream O2 sensor to check if I would get errors). The cat converter doesn't glow at night, and doesn't rattle when tapped. The resonator in the exhaust does make a rattling sound, but I don't see why that would be the problem.
I am at my wits end. Any clue what I should try next? The water pump isn't leaking.
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I have a 2003 grand prix. Sometimes when i am completely stopped at a light, then put my foot on the accelerator as it turns green, the engine will start accelerating but the car wont move for a second. It then jumps forward in a frightening way. It feels like the brakes don't completely disengage or maybe a belt is slipping. I also notice when I am driving and take my foot off the gas for a second and put it back on the RPMs will jump up about 1000. Im not an aggressive driver or anything at all.
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Got a 2002 GT with the NA 3.8 and 150,000 miles. The car has pretty much sat for the past 6 months, driven very sparingly. If it's been sitting for a while (like over night or longer) it will start no problem. If I turn the car off for a shorter period, it will crank but not fire. It will start only if I pump the gas as I'm turning the ignition.
In addition, on occasions it has died while at idle or coasting to a stoplight. After it dies it will fire back up no problem.
Fuel problem perhaps?
The "Service Engine Soon" light has been on for about a month before it started acting up. I had the codes checked at AutoZone and it came up with P0442 and P0128.
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Well today I was happy go lucky on my way to work everything was going fine then all of a sudden this car in front of me slows down. Okay then I go to speed back up and my car was still crunk but I lose power I could not accelerate at all. So I had to coast to the side of the road and I put the car in park to see if it will allow me to accelerate in a different gear and when I do that.
The car shuts off then I go to crank it back up the first time and I got nothing then I wait a couple of seconds then try it again. It cranks up but still cant accelerate until I raise the engine then I can finally move. I was able to do about 65 mph to get to work but this happened two more times before I got back home that night. The car is a 2000 and has 220,000 miles on it.
I took the car to a part store to see why the service engine light was on. They told me it was a bad or faulty EGR valve but this was the first time the service engine light has flashed before.
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So, a couple weeks ago, while driving down the highway, my '99 Grand Am had the oil lamp come on, and the engine was running rough. I pulled over and stopped the car, and then went to try to start it, to no avail. The engine wouldn't crank. After getting it home via tow truck, I charged the battery as first aid.Now, with the charged battery, the engine will start, and run very roughly, as in shaking the entire engine bay. Further, the oil lamp is on now. After a minute of running like this, the engine dies off. Stepping on the gas expedites the stalling out. I've checked and filled the oil, and the coolant (which was low). My next guesses are fuel filter and timing belt.
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I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix with only 32,000 miles and has been meticulously maintained. I am experiencing engine stalling both while driving and at rest. I have taken the car to both a diagnostic center and the GM Dealer and neither one can isolate the problem. I have replaced the fuel filter, the Throttle Pressure Switch, and the Idle Air Control Motor. When placed on the diagnostic computer there are no error codes and the car runs well until it randomly dies. I can sometimes recreate the problem when I climb a hill at about 35 MPH and when I reach the top release the accelerator and the engine will die. I can kick it into Neutral and it restarts right away. Sometimes, after driving it, it will be slow starting requiring a longer than usual starter crank. What about possible causes?
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I have a 2006 Saab 97x. While the car is not very common, the GM 5.3L V8 in it, is. It runs perfectly fine under normal driving conditions but for the past several months it has been running like a Slaab instead of a Saab. It has been backfiring, sputtering and has had loss of power issues but only during hard acceleration.When my check engine light came on at 50k, the dealership changed all 8 iridium plugs and when it happened again at 75k, only one was replaced. Aren't these supposed to be 100k plugs? One of the exhaust manifolds has been replaced due to a leak and the other one has a leak now. Fortunately, all of the previous repairs have been covered by my warranty. Unfortunately, my warranty has run out and the other manifold is no longer covered and seemingly neither is this problem. Most recently, my new mechanic used some fuel injector cleaner something or other to no avail. I tow a 5000# camper and can't have these issues when summer comes. Is it the plugs, manifold, engine, something else?
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I have an 2004 treg V10. I put in diesel yesterday morning(10/13/2010). I went to work, everything was fine. On my way home I started feeling a slight hesitation and sputtering in the motor. It's something that I noticed but didn't give much thought. 10 minutes into the drive and the sputtering became more noticeable. To the point where I would floor the pedal and the treg wouldn't go anywhere, it felt like all the power got drained from the motor. I came to a stop, and listened the engine, no noticeable change in engine noise. Everything seemed fine, but the truck was sputtering every time I would press the gas pedal. I parked the truck for the night and forgot about it.
Now this morning. Driving around in some local streets I def felt like something was off with the truck, it felt like it had a V6 not a V10. took it on the highway and opened her up, car took way too long to get up to speed and once it reached 90 MPH it didn't want to go any faster, it just stayed there. I took an exit off the highway and stopped at a light and the car sputtered and hesitated and eventually stalled at the light. I tried re-starting the truck and it was just stay in the crank position. The battery light came on. I tried starting it again and it would just remain in the crank position. It eventually turned over and started after cranking it for about 5 or 6 times. But the car is still sputtering a bit.
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I am still failing to appropriately diagnose the problem(s) with my '03 Ford E-350 7.3L Powerstroke. This van has only 69,000 miles on it. A week or two back (just a few days back in work time) it suddenly went from running perfectly smooth, clean and wonderful to this:
- Zero power. Putting the van in gear and flooring the engine causes lots more smoke not nearly any rev of the engine and just a crawl forward.
- Lots of smoke out the back exhaust, whitish. I cannot discern wether it smells like diesel or oil (because I'm ignorant here), but the smell is very strong.
- After warming up and idling ~ 15 min I check under the coolant cap and see no signs of bubbling or disruption (from opening the cap in the coolant tank).
- After warming up there are no warning lights visible on the dash, and I don't have a computer to read codes (if there are any to read).
- I replaced the turbo up-pipes which had a visible leak previously. This did not hurt the symptoms, though no more visual leaks under the dog house.
- I thought maybe I put gasoline instead of diesel in the truck, not so.
- To do the above test I had to use the fuel pump to get gas out the tank to test. I hijacked the fuel pump output and turned the car on a few times to get gas out to a tank. The pump seemed to work just fine.
This was all very sudden which is perplexing, and, in use, the van was previously an ambulette and in my few miles with it (maybe 200-300 only) use was extremely light for such an engine/van, just driving around doing errands. I am not sure if this is relevant (no one has suggested so, yet) but before all this happened I uninstalled the rear HVAC that came with the van when I bought it. The AC lines were sealed under the hood. The coolant line was returned at the doghouse (you can see this at the beginning of the video).
At the moment the van has no power to go anywhere. I have not yet checked the CPS or IPC sensors, and understand this might be the next route in standard troubleshooting?
2003 Ford E 350 7.3L Trouble - YouTube....
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