Pontiac - GTO :: 1969 - Can't Get Spark?
Nov 13, 2011
1969 GTO 400ci auto trans. and stock ignition. It's seldom driven and did not fire recently after sitting awhile. It's a friend's car. He has a '64 GTO parked next to it and I have been able to swap the ignition parts between the two. I have done this with the rotor & cap, coil and coil wire. I installed new points and condenser. I put a jumper wire from the battery to the + side of the coil. I used a jumper wire to ground the distributor body to the engine in case it had lost the ground. I inspected the wire from the points to the coil and checked resistance with an ohm meter. I have verified that the distributor is turning. Still I have no spark. Obviously I've overlooked something....but what?
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We have a 1992 Pontiac grand am 3.3 liter our problem is the cps sensors supply wire is reading .332 of a volt the ecu power supply is reading 12.0 volts have not done wiring before this was for a friend. the motor was in pieces in the trunk all back together now but no spark, seems like a electrical short somewhere but a new to electrical diagnostics.
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Ok , i have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GT V6 GM 3.8, my car didnt have any misfires until after i changed my Lower Intake Manifold Gaskets. After changing the gaskets and putting everything back together. The car ran fine. The next day i took it an hour and 30 min away, while driving there it started misfiring and shaking,rough idle at an hour into the trip. The check engine light went to blinking. The Next day i drove it all the way back home in the condition. Put code scanner to it, and received P0303 "Cylinder 3 Misfire":
So i automatically assumed it was the coil pack because i just installed new wires and plugs a week before changing Lower Intake manifold Gasket. Bought new coil pack. Still getting rough idle and P0303 code. So i decided to take a look at Cylinder 3 Spark plug and it was dry black, carbon fouled:
So went and bought new spark plug, installed it, started car and still rough idle and misfiring. Took the new spark plug out and it had been FOULED also ( DRY BLACK AGAIN). So i was told to switch a coil pack around. I did it and the started car, took away some of the rough idle, car actually wasn't misfring or shaking, would run smooth for about 5-8 seconds then start misfiring (Didn't that until i switch coil packs around).
Next Decided to pull out the rest of the plugs from the back and all of them were WET with GAS!! and 2 Spark plugs are just dry fouled!! (Cylinder 3, Cylinder 1). If I can figure this out i will fully have my car back to running correctly.
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I have a mystery on my hands and am at a complete loss. I have a 1969 Volkswagen Beetle that will not hold an idle. It will start up just fine and as long as you have your foot on the gas, it will stay alive. As soon as you let off the car sputters and dies. Another symptom is that the is a miss in the engine, not sure if the two are related or need to time it and then check on the idle. Here is what I have done in an attempt to fix the issue:
I have been able to adjust the idle to get it to stay alive for about 30 seconds longer, but no matter ho much I adjust it still struggles and dies. Idles very rough no matter what.
Cleaned the carb (not a rebuild or anything, but just gave it a real good spray of cleaner)
Replaced the condenser and points (adjusted the points properly etc.)
Replaced and gapped the spark plugs
Replaced the idle cutoff solenoid
Adjusted the automatic choke
Cleaned the carb (not a rebuild or anything, but just gave it a real good spray of cleaner)
Some have suggested a vacuum leak, and i know i have to put some sort of solution on the vacuum connections, but since I am relatively new to the world of VW beetles I am not quite sure where those are and what to put on and what to do if there is a leak.
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I have a 1969 Ford LTD and i am having a problem with my reverse lights. I have already changed the light bulbs and the fuses and both of the reverse lights still do not work.
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I recently purchased a 1969 dodge dart, with the 225 inline 6. I have done the usual repairs (fluid changes, spark plugs and wires, fuel pump and line, thermostat, and even carburetor and distributor). The car starts and drives alright except when at idle such as red lights where it begins to tremble and shuts off. I have to start it again and begin to accelerate it while idling to keep it from giving out. I fixed the timing and switched to electrical distributor but the problem has persisted.
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My 1969 chevy c10 pickup that me and my dad are working on right now, we bought a new instrument cluster and installed it but the guy we bought it from installed an aftermarket temperature gauge and that gauge didn't work either so we're trying to figure out how the original one would be hooked up and how we could also hook up the gas tank to the instrument cluster so I can see how much gas I have instead of just driving it until I run out of gas.
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1969 American Motors AMX....
I purchased a brand new motor and had it installed in my AMX w/ a 650 demon carb. This motor has as approximately 20-30 miles on it after engine was installed. Engine had some blue smoke coming primarily out of passenger side exhaust at first. The smoke was light to non-existent when car was started, and got progressively worse the longer the car was running - after driving for 3-5 minutes, the smoke would envelop the whole road.
Smoke also got worse as a few more miles were put on the engine. Engine started fine and idled fine - no problems when stopped at a light for a few minutes. Oil pressure fluctuated between maybe 35 psi to 90 psi while driving (to the best of my memory). Brought the engine in to be looked at. I've attached pictures - the ones in the engine were taken w/ a scope.
Found the following:
Oil extremely fouled and smells like gasoline.
8 spark plug gunked up and black
5 spark plug black (across from 8)
Ceramic burned of #5 header runner
No oil leaking past intake manifold gaskets
Fuel (and maybe oil?) on top of intake valve, and no carbon deposits
Fuel (and maybe oil?) on top of piston
Vertical scoring on top of cylinder wall
PCV valve connected to intake manifold, going directly to #5 and #8 - not sure if this is a problem or not.
What I'm trying to figure out, is this a problem with the motor, or a problem with the installation...
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I have a 1969 chevy c10 pickup. One of its problems is the temperature gauge was not reading. I grounded the sender wire to the engine block to deterimine if the sender was bad, and ever since the gauge reads hot all the time, even with the ignition off. Could I have fried the gauge?
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I'm attempting to replace the steering coupling in my 1969 f100 2 wheel drive 240 6 cyl.. I have found that the lower column shaft bearing needs to be replaced also. My problem is that I cannot figure out how to get the shaft coupling flange off the shaft in order to remove the bearing. Also if I do get it off how do I remove the old bearing?
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Own an 89 camaro, has a 350. I am getting spark my plugs are new.. fuel pump is replaced but when i turn it over I am only getting drips from the injectors into the carb. So I'd think they were clogged. When i get it started with a little gas to the carb they spray fine though? So when its running they are spraying like they're supposed to but when I am trying to start they wont spray, just drip..
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I am having a problem where my spark plugs keep going out. I changed all the plugs, wires and coil pack on my 2001 Windstar and within a few months my van was running on 4 or 5 cylinders instead of 6 and this isn't the first time it has happened.
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I have a 90 gts celica, which the motor went in it, so i put a 93 5sfe into it. I took the old distributor out of the 90 5sfe and put it into the new motor. I wasn't getting any spark. So i replaced the distributor with a known good one. No spark. replaced the coil and igniter, no spark still.
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Heres the deal...less than 2 weeks ago i had the clutch replaced in my 97 s10 2wd 2.2 5spd. this truck has been nothing but problems mostly self inflicted (by myself) 20000 miles since February 9th... anyways I was driving down the road to work running not perfect but running. All of a sudden the truck shut off while going fast enough to go down another street into a lot. came back at the end of the work day tried to start it with nothing. It got spark but wont fire. Replaced the fuel pump and filter, checked all the lines to see if they were messed up during the clutch repair, the gas is circulating all the way through, so i took out the spark plugs and no of them are getting wet. Then we tried something and tried to get it to start and it shot a backfire and flames out the intake manifold...
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I have a 95-960 [straight 6] that doesn't want to start!
I parked the car roughly 8 weeks ago, yesterday I went to start it! ..firstly the battery had gone flat, No big problem, the battery is only about 6months old so I whipped out the car starter battery pack thingy [as I Have done in the past after a long time parked] but to my dismay it didn't kick! firstly i was concerned that the fuel pump may have *** it's self, so I cracked the fuel line at the engine and turned the ignition on!..plenty of fuel!Next I take one of the coil packs out and turn it over again...NO SPARK!..I only just parked it here a couple of month ago and it was fine..
the car normally runs faultlessly and has never not started in the past, it has all new timing belt and tensioner fitted a couple of thousand k's ago, new battery, plenty of fuel, and less than 200,000kms on the clock..
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I have a 2000 Olds Alero that will not start. Has spark, Fuel pressure is 55 and holds steady. Compression is low on some cylinders. It is a 3400 6 cyl. I changed the crank sensor, balancer, cam sensor, plugs, plug wires, and ignition module and coil packs.
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Here we go again. shut my 87 F150 5.0 off when I got to work when it was time to leave no spark from the coil, same as 3 weeks ago. First thing I did was pull the new dist and replace it nothing, so I pulled out the new coil still nothing, its getting power to the coil so I would assume the relay is good .
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I have a 91 celica with a 4afe engine and i cant get any spark. i replaced the distributor today and still no spark what else should be replaced...
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I recently changed my timing chain on my 2002 Camry XLE and now it won't start. I have done this twice before on different camrys but it is the first time this happens. I don't have spark on cyl 2 and 4. I checked all connections from the ignition coils to the ECM, no opens or shorts. All ignition grounds are good also. I check the continuity from the Crank and Cam sensors to the ECM and they are good. The timing chain was put in like the repair manual says. There is fuel pressure and good battery voltage so I am now stuck.
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ive been meaning to change my spark plugs cause I had gotten an error code for a misfire but it seemed to go away.now some time last week I was kinda racing a friend of mine on the highway was doing like about 80-90 mph when the check engine light came on and the check VSC and the car started like sputtering. so I was thinking ok great the misfire is happening again, but this time it was different it would stutter at low speeds before it would stutter like around 70 mph. so I parked the car ordered new spark plugs when I went to change them one of them had oil on it and the ignition coil. it was the one closet to the front of the car on the passenger side. my question is what could cause this to happen.
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I have a 2001 saturn sl 2 and I noticed some oil around all the spark plugs. The engine seems to be loosing oil a little bit as well, about a quart a week. Its not buring it or leaking that I noticed.
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