Pontiac - G6 :: Belt Tensioner Bounce At Idle?
Jul 26, 2015
I've replaced the serpentine belt on a 06 Pontiac G6 (6cyl) and I noticed at idle the tensioner has a slight bounce to it... Is that normal? It goes away when you hit the gas. Apparently the tensioner was replaced less than a year ago
I attached a short video. [URL] ....
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2006 6.0l ... I've read all over for tips on routing this belt and everyone plays it off as being some simple '20-minute' task. I'm on my 4th hour on this now.
I can't figure out how to route the belt around the tensioner pulley, circled in the picture (from another thread). Everyone glosses over how to do this and I can't figure it out.
It seems like the only way to get it on is to bend the belt and slide it between the pulley and the block, but that I just can't reach the blasted thing.
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I replaced the belt tensioner. Today, after much prodding, I noticed the tensioner is rattling which is weird considering is only a year and some months old. The question is what can cause the tensioner to rattle? The belt is fine, is not cracked and it sits fine on the pulleys.
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I needed to tighten the belt tensioner up, but couldn't find a DIY. So reaching out to see if this is normal? If not how do I tighten it up?
Here lately the car has been idling funny, kinda sounds like it has a cam or something, once I accelerate it smooths out fine. I thought it was a loose clamp on my intake to the turbo but once I got that clamped down correctly it still was idling this way.
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First off I have a issue the Timing Belt Tensioner Stud / bolt that holds my tensioner on is stripped and came out with my tensioner. I don't want to risk putting it back into the engine because some one prior to owning my car stripped the nut that holds it in. Where I could get a new one of these bolts. I have a 2000 VW Golf GL with a 2.0l. I've searched high and low on parts sites and cannot figure out where to buy this item.
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During the 120000km (75000mi) service my Toyota local service said I have a noisy Prius and that the sound is from the belt tensioner bearing.
As I bought it used and always heard the same sound. I've made a video ....
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How to replace the belt tensioner. It's not putting out enough tension when the engine is cold. So, the belt makes chirping noise for couple of minutes idling when cold with AC on.
I had the AC inspected and everything checks out according to my mechanic.
He believes that the issue is with the tensioner since I had recently had replaced the serpentine belt.
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I own a 2008 santa fe SE, the belt tensioner start to making noise recently, just wonder if it's covered under the warranty so I don't have to pay out-of-pocket to get it fixed. This car have 68000 miles so far.
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I am deep into replacing the timing belt on my 08 Elantra 2.0, and am nervous about taking the tensioner off since it is not obvious how to set it. I could use a fool proof explanation on how to set the tensioner.
The Haynes manual talks about 1/4 deflection but that seems too imprecise.
I can not see the marks in the video : DIY 2008 Elantra timing belt video 2 of 2 - YouTube
And this post 2008 Elantra Timing Belt does not quite seem to explain. I am contemplating putting it all back together, just changing the accessory belts and handing it to a shop. I could use a fool proof explanation on how to set the tensioner.
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I had my timing chain tensioner replaced. When they do this do they touch the serpentine belt tensioner? 1000 miles after the timing replaced, my serpentine belt shredded and they say I need a new serpentine belt tensioner. Does this sound correct?
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I have a 2008 F-150 with a 4.6. I have a sequel and I believe it is the belt tensioner pulley and / or the idler pulley above it. Looking for proper procedure to change one or both. It is pretty tight in there. How much stuff do I have to remove to get in there. Should I replace both pulleys at the same time.
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After finally identifying a bad serpentine belt tensioner for being the the culprit for my engine noises, my mechanic said that the 'thru-bolt' is siezed. Since the replacement job was at my budget limit he said he doesnt want to get into it in fear that he has to brake the bolt and drill it out (requiring 2-3x more labor cost according to him).
If this is the case, and the 'thru-bolt' is seized, is this in any way something I can make a an effort to tackle? I have a jack and jack stands, and plenty of time.
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So my mk6 developed what initially sounded initially like a bad serpentine belt tensioner. Only under anything more than load, and sounded like a bird chattering under the hood. Got outside today, fired car up, watched tensioner and it sat there steady as a rail. The noise is coming from the opposite side of the engine. Not really mechanical/metallic at all and tracks under load with the RPMs. Why i initially thought what i did. Not I'm sort of baffled.
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We have a 97 Saturn SL2. The belt tensioner assembly cracked and after the guy replaced it, immediately upon driving, the low coolant light starts flashing.
Drove it this way a few times while keeping an eye on coolant level. Parked car for a few days, then notice a big puddle of green coolant under car. It has been sitting now for several weeks.
Could increased tension from the new tensioner pulley cause the water pump to die?
The car has never overheated, though. If water pump was toast wouldn't it overheat?
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I installed a new serpentine belt tensioner into my 1994 Chevy Suburban C1500. It vibrated as much as the old one did, so I assumed that a bit of vibration is normal and forgot about it. Well, after recently looking at some instructional videos, I am now under the impression that any vibration in the tensioner is bad. Here is what is going on -- [UrL] .... Is it OK or should I get another new tensioner?
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My ball bearing on the tensioner seized and broke the belt. Does that happen all the time?? My car is a CP and right now it's only 36k miles..
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2002 Camry 4 cyl. Can the idler pulley alone be replaced on the serpentine belt tensioner? I noticed a very slight side to side play when I had the belt off. No noise from it. When I looked at rock auto, they sell the whole bracket with the pulley.
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I recently bought a 97 960. i have had a s90 before in totaled it i loved the car so much i found another. i was driving and broke the timing belt tensioner which in turn lead to the breaking of 5 exhaust valves that i know of. I've taken off the head and noticed that one of the bottom of the valves had melted onto the number 5 piston head.
I called around and search but every motor is at least 1000 and i have been told anywhere from 3500-4500 to rebuild. My question would b is there an easy way to fix or should i junk it. i bought it for a 1000 it has only 140000 on it an its in almost great condition. I attached some pictures of the head and piston so u can see the damage.
Attached File(s)
2012_04_07_19.02.39.jpg ( 1.45MB )
2012_04_10_16.45.26__1_.jpg ( 1.43MB )
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My tensioner pulley is making noise.I replaced the rear idler pulley (can't get to the front one), but still have the noise. Mention a DIY for replacing the tensioner pulley bearing. A part number for the bearing?
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So my son's car started to sound like a diesel at idle - a good precursor to timing belt tensioner failure and belt slip, as that happened last night.
When we pulled the belt cover off and turned the dampener pulley by hand the belt was spinning on the bottom gear. When turning the engine over, there was no mechanical noises to indicate valves making contact. Did we get lucky or are the valves just bent out of the way?
How can you tell the valves are bent without taking the head off?
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1996 Buick LeSabre 3.8L... Under the pcv valve housing is a short plastic 90 deg. elbow, about 3/4inch wide. The elbow looks like it comes from the upper plenum and goes into a metal housing behind the belt tensioner. This elbow leaks from behind the belt tensioner side. My question: what is this elbow called? How do I fix it?
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