My '01 Aztek has a very odd shimmy. It only happens when turning right, at highway speeds, and when accelerating. Not when turning left, and not while just 'coasting'. Only when accelerating.
The mechanic replaced a tie rod end, and that seemed to fix things for a few hundred miles. But now it's back and is happening at lower speeds.
99 Pontiac Montana.... I feel a shimmy in my steering wheel at all speeds....
View 1 RepliesHaving trouble with a shimmy at 65-75mph .....
View 19 Replies2010 FJ Cruiser has an intermittent shimmy that you can feel in the steering wheel at highway speeds. Noticed it not long after new tires. Go around a long curve and it starts, then stays until you go around another curve and then stops. It is as if the wheels have to align a certain way for some harmonic effect. I had the tires rebalanced and rotated. My mechanic said they balanced up very well. Shimmy is better but not gone. Wierdest thing is that when it happens, if I keep my foot on the gas and gently press the brake the shimmy stops and the returns as soon as I let up on the brake. When I asked my mechanic if it could be 2 slightly warped rotors he said the shimmy would be worse braking not better.
View 4 RepliesI've noticed that at speeds of 60+ (especially 65+), the Prius control doesn't seem "tight." I wouldn't go as far as saying it has a "shimmy" but it's harder to keep straight on the highway. I absolutely adore my Prius but this bothers me. I had the alignment checked and it's perfect. I know all small cars tend to be less grounded than, say, an SUV, but I'm still curious if this is normal before I take it into the dealer.
View 15 RepliesSo I have been noticing a shimmy/bouncing at highway speeds (between 60-80mph) for a couple of months. It started right after I had a local indy tire shop swap my sliver stock wheels for the chrome version of the same wheel I picked up locally.
Funny thing is I did my front brakes last Sunday and after putting the tires back on, the ride felt smoother at highway speeds. I figured perhaps the indy shop didn't torque the wheels properly (which I'm sure they didn't as they didn't ask me the torque spec and didn't look it up, and used an impact gun to tighten bolts). I torqued my front wheels to 103lb by hand after doing front brakes.
This Thursday, I did my rear brakes and torqued the rears to 103lb. On the highway the shaking/bouncing is back and dare I say more noticeable.
Could it be that I did something incorrect when installing the rear wheels? The tires are Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 with about 15k miles on them. Look to be wearing evenly.
I have an appt. on Monday to have the tires balanced at Discount Tire. I asked about their machine and he said it's a Hunter which I take to me Hunter Road Force balancing machine. Is there anything particular that I should ask or know prior to going in?
When I'm driving at highway speeds and hit the brakes hard-ish (e.g., if the car in front of me stops or if I suddenly realize I'm going too fast on an exit ramp), my 1997 Honda Accord feels like it's shimmying from side to side. It only happens for a moment, but in that moment I feel like I'm on the verge of losing control of the car.
I've only noticed this in the last few months. What this might be? I'm going in for an oil change tomorrow and would like to ask my mechanic to take a look at this, but I'd like to have some theories/guesses in my back pocket before I go in.
2007 F250 SD Crew Cab Long Bed 4X4 with 6.0. Bulletproofed, leveling springs, 5k firestone airbags, upgraded brakes, new front driveshaft and new universals and carrier bearing on rear u joint.
The issue: When accelerating from a stop or a slow rolling start, turning right or left, I get a shimmy (vibration) that seems to be coming from under my feet. Not a violent shimmy, but enough to make me certain that something is loose or out of alignment in the drivetrain. IT IS NOT THE REAR END as friends have constantly told me. Rear end was serviced and cluth packs lubricated with no change in issue.
What I've done: Changed transfer case fluid, new front driveshaft, new u joints and carrier bearing on rear driveshaft. There has been no improvement after these repairs, if anything the vibration is a little worse and easier to induce.
I've been chasing this problem for over a year. Going to be pulling a Toy Hauler out west this falls and really need to repair this for my piece of mind..
I have a 2002 Pontiac Aztek. I am having to do the relearn process. I was wanting to know if you can reprogram the passkey 3 key not the key fob but the actual key. It was already programmed before but I want to know if I can REprogram it.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Pontiac Aztek with about 170,000 miles on it. About 3 weeks ago, it began having problems when I would hit the gas to speed up. It would hesitate, and then jerk forward and go. Then about 2 weeks ago, I was driving on the highway and the engine just suddenly stopped - as if I had turned off the key.
There was no warning, no sound, nothing. I kept hitting the gas the whole time and it started up again after a minute. I replaced the fuel filter and it ran well for a week. Then it happened again, but this time the engine completely turned off and I had to turn the key to restart the engine. The engine started with no problem.
I tried to drive to the mechanic, but the engine stopped & started again on the way, so I ended up having it towed. It is not driving roughly or idling roughly, it doesn't make any strange sounds and no warning lights come on. When the engine stops, all electrical components are still working (lights, radio, etc.). My mechanic appears to be stumped. What could be causing this?
I have a '94 Aztek that sounds like a small plane engine when driving. What is causing the noise?
View 10 RepliesI drive a 2003 Pontiac Vibe GT (6 speed Manual) and I have noticed that when im in 6th gear going highway speeds, I have an RPM of about 3K. For this model I feel this value is high and im worried about engine wear and fuel economy. I'm not sure about the other gears, but from my knowledge of other cars in the same weight category, less horsepower and 4-speed automatic gearbox, my car should not have such high RPM.
View 12 RepliesJust recently my wife's 2001 Pontiac Aztek GT with 100K miles started the "Disco Lights" phenomenon (sp?). When driving or parked, the lights will start flashing, the horn may (or may not) honk by itself and the dashboard lights and indications blank!. The "Security" light in the driver's info center sometimes comes on also. I've read that it may need a new "Body Control Module". Could resetting the "Security" light stop this? If so, how do you do that?
View 1 Replies2003 Pontiac Aztek ... I'm a slow stopper. I like a rolling stop. Lately when I do that my breaks will make a clicking sound (around 6 clicks) only heard inside the car. I'd i let it click, then it's fine, if I press the brake down all the way before the clicks it depresses in a jerky manner. This problem has existed for awhile now. I now an the proud owner of new abs module, wiring harness, multiple wheel housing assys, new brakes, rotors... That may be it with the break system. We just checked and bled the break line for air. I'm tired of paying several mechanics and no results.
View 10 RepliesI've got a 2002 Toyota Camry with 96,000 miles on it. Car has been running fine for years but on a recent 250-mile drive I noticed a whirring noise (almost like the engine of a remote-control electric car). The noise is faint, but definitely new. I'm fairly sure it's coming from the under the hood, or at least from the front half of the car. No vibrations. The noise is only audible at highway speeds, and really only present when I'm accelerating (or on cruise control). It seems to get slightly worse if the car is climbing a hill.
Some things that have been worrying me:*I left the car in a friend's driveway all summer. Could that have anything to do with it? (There were no noticeable problems when I got back, which was months ago--when I came back after two months, I simply re-connected the battery and the car started on the first try).*I had a transmission fluid change about 2K miles ago. It was at a Jiffy Lube. They "flushed" the old fluid. They claimed they used the correct Toyota brand fluid. (I've since read that flushing the old fluid can be a bad idea for older cars.) Could this have something to do with it?*I just had my snow tires put on two weeks ago (and this is the first long drive I've done with the snow tires on). The guy who changed my tires took about 2.5 hours to do the job, saying "this is only his second week." The car is steering fine, and not drifting or anything, but could that mechanic have done something to the tires that is causing this highway-speed, acceleration-only whirring noise?
I have a 2005 Toyota Corolla XRS with a manual transmission which has developed a shudder. When this shudder started, it only occurred when accelerating at highway speeds, or maintaining highway speeds. Now it happens at lower speeds if I give it gas without downshifting, but at reasonable RPM, 3000-5000. I cannot feel the shudder in the steering wheel, but the whole car shakes, and it definitely feels like it is coming from the front end. I have had the tires balanced and rotated. I also have replaced the IACV and MAF due to a CEL. These were replaced after the shudder started. For a few days after the replacement, the CEL returned, but now I am no longer getting it.
There are no visibly obvious issues with the suspension or the drive shafts or CV joints, and the motor mounts likewise look okay. I am not getting a CEL of any kind, and I replaced my plugs 6 months ago, but I pulled them anyway, and they are not fouled. I don’t think the issue is in my suspension, steering, or wheels because I cannot feel it in the steering wheel. I don’t think my half shafts are warped because the shudder happens at varying speeds, and the instant I let off of the gas, it stops. Though this doesn’t rule them out completely, there is no clicking from the CV joints. When I brake, the car slows smoothly, so the rotors are fine. I have run injector cleaner a couple of times, and octane boost once. These both seemed to solve the issue, but did not make it stop, and it has gotten worse lately. My wife did put low-octane gas in the car once, but it was weeks ago.
The last couple of days I've noticed a strange sound that come on under boost accelerating at highway speeds. It's a harsh ssshhhh sound that rises in frequency with engine RPM, sort of between a wood lathe and a bench grinder. happens under mid to WOT. It almost seems like I am loosing a little HP as well but I can't confirm that. It's loud enough to hear it in the cabin and with the windows down I can definitely hear it. It's not really fluttering, that I'm used to being on my 3rd tuned 2.0T
View 6 RepliesTook car in for normal service (69,000 miles) and had Tranny Fluid Service completed. When I took the car home I noticed some slight tranny slipping while accelerating up to highway speeds (so assuming 4th to 5th gear, maybe 5th to 6th). Took it back to the dealer and after a week it had a new transmission. Took it home and it slipped again, also only accelerating to highway speeds. Took it back and they told me they reset the computer that monitors my driving patterns. OK, not exactly sure what that means. So, now driving to work this morning it slipped (or maybe hesitated is a better word) again when accelerating from about 55 mph to 60 or so. Car has never had issues like this before, gas mileage is still in the 30 mpg range.
View 9 RepliesIt is a '90 Nissan Maxima. I just replaced my drivers side axle (cv joint was clicking), and now my car vibrates at highway speeds when turning right. I am pretty sure I seated the axle correctly....could it be a bad axle? I heard that turning the axle 90 degrees and reinstalling may work? I got a new axle (Empi brand).
View 2 RepliesI've been having a problem which i cant seem to find the fix for. My ABS and ECS dash light keep turning on. Its intermittent and does not stay on. Ive noticed that it usually happens if I travel at highway speeds for more than 15miles. I had the brakes x4 changed 1 year ago and all brake pads show good life. Brake fluid is at a good level with no leaks to be seen. I am wondering if its one of the sensors? How can one check for that? I have a 2006 3.3l GLS with 86k.
View 2 Replies I drive a 2004 chevy Tahoe and have had this problem for about 8 months. It started out very faint and occasional, but has now escalated to loud and consistent. So it ONLY happens when turning right. I've tried to replicate it when turning left and had no success. It happens when I am turning fairly hard at a decent speed. ex. Pulling into my driveway. I've already checked the wheel bearings and Ball joints.
Another thing is that the ABS light is on sometimes when i start the car and comes on every time i turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. It also has a problem where it will shake almost uncontrollably when driving at 65+MPH after hitting a bump or sometimes just randomly on a smooth surface. We just got new tires and balanced them. It did the same with the previous set we had. I know I'm asking for a lot, but where to start?