Pontiac :: 2005 - Rear End Noise Staying Consistently
Jan 12, 2016
I've had a noise coming from my rear end since I got the car and usually it stayed consistently bad. A year or more ago (I barely ever drive this car) I had the fluid changed in the differential, and that made the noise significantly better barely noticeable at all. Now, however, the noise is back and seemingly worse than ever. It's a low pitched grumbling noise almost a grinding and really only does it when I reverse or am turning one way or the other. Since this is such a high performance car, I'm worried the rear end is just going to blow out on me one day. What might be going on and what's causing the noise? Also, there's no play In the drive shaft for it to be a U-joint or anything.
2005 Pontiac GTO with a 6.0 L LS2 engine and a T-56 6 speed manual transmission.....
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My parents have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix. The blower that controls the a/c and the heater does not work consistently. It just works when "the spirit moves it." I took it to a mechanic today. They didn't even look at the car. They just went by my description of the "symptoms" of the car. According to the place I went, it needs the whole nine yards (naturally). How could they tell what was wrong without examining the car?!
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We have taken our 2006 Pontiac Vibe to two different mechanics numerous times trying to find out what's wrong, but they told us that the car needs to not start for them in order for them to diagnose the problem. The issue with this is that every time we leave it with them, it starts just fine, and they charge us $45 per night to leave it there. We are scared to use the car because we don't want to be stranded somewhere when it randomly doesn't start.
Symptoms:
- Starts sometimes, but not consistently (once every week or two, it just won't start)
- The car sounds like it is almost going to start, as we are hearing more than just clicking, but for some reason the engine just never gets to that final rumble to stay on.
- When the issue occurs, the car will sometimes start if we try again minutes or hours later
- Jumping the battery seems to get it start.
Previous Attempts:
- Already changed the battery
- Already gotten a tune-up and oil change
As I said, we are incredibly frustrated, as this problem is not consistent enough to show up for the mechanic, and therefore renders us with an unreliable and undiagnosable car.
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My grand am began shaking (shuddering) consistently yesterday morning and I ran a diagnostic reading on the car. It told me that there was a misfire. I replaced the spark plugs and still no change. This car has been a nightmare to do maintenance work on since everything is either within a case or impossible to access on a regular car jack - so what could be causing this reaction in the car? Is it definitely the ignition coil? I would just hate to attempt to replace that (not to mention the fact that it's $100+ for the part) if I didn't survey other options. 2003 Pontiac Grand Am 2.2....
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My 96 Grand Am 3.1 it the SE model. ABS Light is staying on I check all the fuses all are good I check the wires going to the wheels with a ohm meter get a reading of 117 ohms driver side and 110 ohms right side . Need to know if the reading are in specs or not if I need to replace the ABS unit just the control unit (the black box ) or the whole unit that mount on the master cly ? the car has no tags right now so I can't take it to be scan.
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The Change Oil light was illuminated for a short time on my 2000 Grand Am. This morning, on the way to get the oil changed, the Service Vehicle Soon light came on also. After the oil change, the Change Oil light went off, but the Service Vehicle Soon light stayed on. I stopped by my mechanic, who doesn't like to change oil, since it does pay enough, and he said that there was something else that they should have done to reset this other light. He said it was in the manual, but I don't find it. How to turn it off?
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My son has a 05 Pontiac g6 that has been making a lot of noise coming from the steering he thinks. I haven't had a chance to hear or look at it, but I was wondering whats the worst case scenario gonna cost. I guess it has electric power steering instead of conventional. I know nothing about these. It has 158000 miles on it if that matters.
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A sudden new noise heard from under the hood of my car!I have determined The noise is definitely coming from the AC compressor. I can hear it when I lift the hood. The noise stops when the AC is turned off and starts when the AC switch is activated. I'm not certain if it is a bearing or one of the pistons inside? Interesting is that there are moments that when the A/C is turned on, all is well, no noise and their is refrigerated air coming from the vents inside. But a mile or so down the road, the noise starts.
Also, once the noise starts, there is a tremendous load on the gas engine and the car has great difficulty getting to 35 mph. The engine is a V6. the car is a SE model. There are Few bells and whistles. There is 200,000+ miles on the car. I don't think it is a low freon issue, for is there not a built in safety that keeps the A/C clutch from engaging if freon ( or 134A in my case) is low? and when the unit does work, there is plenty of cold air. I don't think it is low oil in the compressor, as that would indicate a leak in the system , would it not?
Could I or am I , be looking at replacing the compressor?Which will mean having to suck down the system, correct? and anything else I have not thought of that will be involved?
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I own a pontiac sunfire '00, and it makes a crackling noise in the rear end whenever I drive slowly, what could it be?
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A friend has a 2005 Honda Civic with approximately 120,000 miles that she just bought the end of 2013. The car was kept immaculate by the previous owner. This week as she was driving, she said the temperature needle suddenly went all the way to H. Earlier in the day, she had noticed the A/C was not consistently cool but didn't think much of it as there were no other problems with the car. When the temp needle suddenly went to H, she shut off the a/c and before she could pull over the temp needle went back to normal. She checked the coolant level which was very low and she took it to the dealer who ran multiple tests including checking the thermostat, cylinder compression tests, etc but they could find nothing wrong. I keep telling her there is a reason it did that and that coolant doesn't just disappear and that I think she should take it back.
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I have a 2007 Vibe. My niece strattled a dead deer on the highway and I have a rattle noise coming from the rear right tire. Only think is that it's not constant? 9 out of 10 times it's there when I start the car but as drive for 30 or 40 minutes, or longer, it goes away? I had my Uncle look under the car and all he said was that he saw deer hair.
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The driver's side front and rear has been consistently loosing 2 -3 PSI more than the other side.
Only had it for like 2 months and I don't have anything loaded like luggage in the vehicle.
Is this something I need to be concerned about?
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Recently had extensive work done on my 2005 F250 PSD. 4 injectors replaced, fuel regulator, and STC fitting on HPOP.
Got the truck back, and the fuel gauge, and "distance to E" display are working intermittently.
When the truck went in for repair, it was about 1/8 tank. After repairs, shop put about 30 miles on the truck.
I picked it up, and the gauge read E, and display said 0 kms to E. I filled the truck up, and the gauge still read E, and said 0 kms to E.
I then drove for a while, then powered down, and back up again, and gauge read below E (like when truck not running), and display had 4 dashes...no numbers, for distance to E. I powered down, and then back up, then it read 696 kms to E, and gauge working normally.
This morning, on a cold start, the 4 dashes, and empty reading returned. I shut off truck, and restarted it, and it started working again.
Could the shop have damaged the sending unit, while driving 30 miles, with so little diesel in the tank?
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1. The traction control dash light comes on and stays on.
2. The cruise control stopped working.
3. The rear tail lights won't shut off even when the car is off.
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Tried taking inner door panel off. very little access and liberal spraying of WD40...............
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I've recently noticed that on my 2005 Gen 2, after starting the car, the first few miles I drive produce a gentle metallic rhythmic scraping sound coming from the right rear wheel.
It's only audible when driving at low speeds (<30 mph), and seems to disappear after the car has been driven for a few miles. But when I start the car fresh the next day, it has reappeared.
The rate of the scraping noise varies directly with the speed I'm driving. I think it only happens when I'm coasting (in Drive), and possibly also when I'm braking.
My guess is something is slightly misaligned or rusty - a disc brake? And the noise "disappears" when the metal gets warmed up?
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