Plymouth - Voyager :: 1992 - Overheating / Hole In Coolant Reservoir?
Dec 14, 2012
I have a 92 Plymouth Voyager, which I just got back from my son. He was driving it in Seattle for awhile, until it overheated. He had a new radiator and new thermostat put in, but it still overheated. I towed it back to my place to see if my daughter and I could get it running. The new radiator he had put in was leaking from a seam around the top. We replaced that with a new radiator.
I drove around for about 60 to 70 miles, into town and back. No problem. Today my wife and daughter took it to town and only made it about 2/3 of the way before it started to overheat. Daughter discovered a hole in the coolant reservoir. But I am still not sure what could be the reason for the overheating. I did replace the water pump about three years ago. What I can do to possibly repair this problem?
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My 1992 Plymouth voyager 3.0 looses power when it gets hot I put a straight pipe thinking it was the catalytic converter and still doing the same thing also it backfires
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I have a 1996 Plymouth Breeze and its been a pretty trustworthy car for the last few years. Lately however I have noticed a gurgling sound coming from the coolant reservoir whenever it the thermostat gauge hits about 50%. It cools right back down to a little over 25% and the sound goes away. I don't think its a leak in my head gasket as there is not any oil in my coolant or coolant in my oil, and its not over heating.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Celica I think I may have overheating problems every time i stop after driving a little while i can hear a boiling noise from where you put your coolant in and when i open it there is steam coming from the black hose that goes in it.
The funny thing is when i am driving the temperature gauge stays at 1/2 way and never passes it, also sometimes when i stop green and a bit clear liquid leaks on the ground on the side where the battery is.
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My 2000 Accent with 164,000km is not overheating but is dumping coolant into the reservoir so that the radiator is about a quart low. I did have a few problems with it overheating in the past month, but that was solved by thermostat removal (always above 80F here). I stopped before the overheats reached the redline and allowed the engine to cool before continuing, no known adverse performance during the overheats. No water in oil.
Failed troubleshooting:
Drained and replaced coolant x3
New radiator cap
* No thermostat.
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I have a 2000 Dodge Neon with a 2001 Neon motor in it. I have just recently had problems with the car overheating. So we started diagnosing it and replaced parts that we thought were wrong. We replaced the water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, and timing belt. The problem that I am having is that the car won't take coolant out of the reservoir tank. I have bled the air out of the cooling system and it still didn't fix the problem.
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Had overheating issue with the wife (she doesn't monitor fluid levels like she should). Now you can't operate it for more than a day or two before the reservoir is super low to empty. Mechanic coolant is going into the engine, probably through the intake manifold. Says investigating further will cost a ton. What can I do cheaply to figure out what's going on before I give up? I followed her when the engine was started from cold & could see water vapor (more than I would expect) in the exhaust until when I figure the engine reached full operating temp. It has about 225k and is the 6 cyl engine, btw.
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I was driving my 2008 Santa Fe last week (before I went on vacation) and noticed the the A/C wasn't coming through quite a cool as usual (almost felt like the vent was on w/ no AC). Then after about 10 minutes of driving I noticed the thermostat on the car get to about the 3/4 line pretty close to the red lines.
Luckily I was home so turned the car off and popped open the hood. I noticed the reservoir tank was empty and there was some coolant that dripped down on the fans & a small pool of coolant on the engine block right under where the oil is poured. (nothing has been dripping under the car)
I added a little coolant to the reservoir tank and the next time I turned it on and let it run for ~10 minutes, it was the same thing.
Anyway, I came back from vacation and opened the hood to try and identify exactly where the leak was, and ran the car for ~30 minutes, with A/C on full blast and the car didn't overheat or leak anywhere. Coolant tank was still full from when I filled it the first time.
What could have caused the leak/overheating in the first place?
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I have 2001 Nissan Xterra SE 3.3L V6. A few weeks ago my car started to overheat while going through the grapevine (mountain pass in SoCal). After filling it up with coolant, I took it to the shop. They couldn't figure out what exactly was the problem. It passed the block test and such. They said the top hose was swelling up as if something was blocking it. They also said my car was going through about a gallon of coolant. They replaced the water pump, thermostat, and the top hose. they also replaced the timing belt.
After driving the car for an hour, it started to overheat again. This time, I took it to the Nissan dealership. They said the timing belt was off by 2 teeth and they think that's why it overheated, so they fixed that problem. They also did a cooling system test and found no leaks.
I got the car back and it still overheats. After the turn off the car, I see coolant being bubbling back into the reservoir almost to the top. Also, my radiator was replaced about a year ago.
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I have a 1999 4x2 F150 XL, 4.2L engine, 5-speed trans., about 197,600 miles and have been getting P0306 and P0174 codes. The check engine light came on and stayed on. Also, pretty much randomly, my engine over-heats and the engine compartment coolant reservoir is suddenly dry as a bone. I bought the truck new and this has only happened twice, during normal driving.
Clearing the 0306 and 0174 codes. Not sure what to do about the over-heating thing.. What I've done so far to try to clear the codes is the least expensive stuff:
=> Replaced both forward O2 sensors, have read where the two rear O2 sensors don't necessarily need to be replaced so I haven't replaced them yet. The sensors that came off are Bosch, as are the ones that I bought from Autozone and installed.
=> Replaced old spark plugs with Motorcraft brand, gapped to 0.054 in.
=> Replaced old spark plug wires with Motorcraft spark plug wires.
=> Cleaned the MAF sensor
=> Replaced PCV valve and replaced an section of elbow hose near it. The original elbow had a big hole right at the 90-degree bend, on the inside.
=> Replaced a cracked, dried-out, vacuum hose coming from the evap cannister purge valve and going to the front underside of the upper intake manifold.
=> replaced fuel filter.
After doing all this, I took it out on the road long enough for the computer to wake up and relearn and got the check-engine light again. Only this time it was flashing. I gather from reading in this forum that a flashing CEL is worse than a constant-on CEL so I drove back home and have yet to take it back out.
After reading about problematic ignition coils, I followed a procedure in my Haynes manual to check mine out:
=> Verified the correct resistance values at the electrical connector (0.7 ohms),
=> Verified battery voltage is present at the harness side of the electrical connector (about 12.6 volts),
=> checked the resistance values between the three sets of 'towers'. Starting from front to back, the resistance readings were 13.06 kOhms, 13.12 kOhms, and 12.98 kOhms. The correct range in the Haynes book is 6.5 to 11.5 kOhms so I thought maybe my ignition coil was bad.
I located a Motorcraft ignition coil at a local O'Reilly Auto Parts store, went there, and was able to check the resistance values on that new one. Turns out the resistance on the new one at the parts store is pretty much the same as that on the one on my truck (all three coils were 13.something kOhms), so I haven't replaced the ignition coil. I guess either my Haynes book is probably incorrect or the ignition coil on my particular F150 has different resistance values than the rest of the vehicles covered by that manual.
Next things I'm looking at replacing:
=> egr valve and the associated line to the DPFE sensor. (DPFE replaced a few years back, as a result of a P0401 code)
=> iac valve
=> upper intake plenum gaskets
I'm kind of at a loss at this point. I hate to just continue replacing things without knowing that I'm replacing the right things.
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I have a 92 f250 4x4 351 windsor, so I had a hose bust the other day that ran from one side of the intake to the other, I mean completely split down the side. The engine overheated when this happened so i replaced the hose and everything seemed fine until i was heading home and it started to overheat. Being frustrated and angry i noticed that the heater was blowing out cold air when it was overheating and that the top radiator hose would run flat when i popped the hood, but no coolant would run thru it until it overheated and sucked it back up or something. But I then changed the water pump thinking it was that but it wasn't, so then i suspected a stuck closed thermostat. I changed that and coolant still isn't running thru top radiator hose and now I am leaking coolant from what could be the thermostat gasket or somewhere else im scared and want to fix this problem.
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My 1999 Plymouth Voyager smells like gas, really bad. I have taken it to my "car person" and he has tried everything he knows to find out what may be causing this. He has checked all the lines and even run pressure thru the lines to try and find a leak but hasn't. Yet the smell remains. It is really strong on the drivers side near my door. As my husband 90 ford ranger just recently caught fire while he was driving down the road and burned completely up I am more that worried about this happening to me. I am even afraid to park it in the garage most night. My mechanic did say he didn't find any leaks and especially any in the engine....so why does the smell stay???
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My voyager stalls when rpms are low--turns, backing up, stop signs etc.., RUNS FINE WHILE COLD!!!!!
Replaced fuel filter, iac, whats next!??? nothing shows up on computer - no error codes etc etc....
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The vehicle is a Plymouth Grand Voyager Expression, year 1999.
So we've tried to get this fixed in the past, we know a mechanic who has tried multiple times to fix this himself.
So here's the issue: All of the meters, lights, everything on the dashboard very rarely work(if they do they go back off while driving). If you hit the top of the dash hard enough, they will all sometimes come on and then go back off after an unpredictable amount of time.
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Vibration in front end at 40 to 50 new tires have been balanced and checked 4 times can run up past 50 and put in neutral and no vibration as it slows down...
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I have a 1995 Plymouth Voyager se about a year ago the transmission started acting up, for no reason, it would just go it to First and never come out I would stop turn it off turn it back on again and it would be fine..then days later it would go by, it would do it again. it did this for a while and the good days would turn in to a mile or two then it just decided not to come out of first ever, during this, i took it to a trany shop and rebuilt the transmission it worked for a bout a half hour.
Final a mechanic friend checked the computer again and changed it out with another and it fixed it beautifully!!! ok well about a week ago a very odd loud obnoxious squeal started that sounded like a bottle rocket but not all the time, more often than not though. Before I got a chance to take it to my mechanic friend i was driving along and the transmission slipped in to first and wont that's it. i have been doing emergency trips in first gear and also the horrid squeal is gone. the thing have to be linked what should I try and i don't think its the computer, I really don't want to lose my van
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I have a 96 Plymouth voyager my husband was driving it to work and he heard a knocking sound he pulled into a gas station where he put oil in it and had to fill up on gas when he went to turn it back on it wouldn't crank over didn't even. Make a sound like it was trying to crank I know I am due for a oil change but im not that much over..
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I am looking for some engine code one is 35,21,32,and 55 it a grand voger 1995. I been having transmission problem it will not shift up I been told it might be a speed sensor. My rpm seem to jump up down when it idle.
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I have a grand voger 1995 and my transmission is not shifting up it stay in one gear. Why does it not shift and is it a easy fix?
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I have a 96 Plymouth Voyager with 230,000 miles that will quit running doesn't matter if I'm going slow through a parking lot or on the interstate. When going slow like backing up or through a parking lot I put it in P and restart it. Sometimes the engine light comes on, sometimes not. When traveling on road or interstate I mash on the gas and it restarts with turning the key. Some days it happens a lot, some days it doesn't happen at all.
I took to shop and they replace the MAP sensor but the next day it did it again. I took it back and they put replaced it thinking it was just a bad sensor. It still didn't fix the problem so I took to another shop and left it there for a week so they could drive it hoping that it would happen for them but apparently it not. They did replace the ground wire in the wiring harness but two days later it quit running again as I was rolling down the interstate.
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