Plymouth - Neon :: 1998 - Vehicle Will Not Restart After Turning Off The Engine
Sep 2, 2015
I have a 1998 Plymouth Neon that will start after it has cooled completely, and be fine through out the day, but when I get home from school and I start it again, it makes a strange screeching noise, and after turning off the engine and trying to restart the car, the vehicle will not start again, but all of the lights work, the battery is fine, the alternator is okay, the starter is a brand new OEM part, new ignition coil, new spark plugs, new safety neutral switch, new speed sensor, new battery cables, new camshaft position sensor, the only extra thing it does have is fog lights that were not put in by the dealership, this was done when my uncle still owned this car back in 1999. The only other problem that it has is an Error code of P1899 (Safety/Neutral Switch Stuck) and at times when turning the steering wheel, it will make a screeching noise halfway turned until you let go a bit, and then it is able to completely be turned either way, and one last thing is that the speedometer was a bit erratic one time, while I was driving home on the freeway.
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I have a 1998 plymouth neon that is leaking oil from the filler cap, I have replaced the cap 4 times and it still leaks from this same spot. What it might be?
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Ok, ready for a new head scratcher? After replacing the starter, the battery cables, the camshaft position sensor, several hoses that were broken and/or disconnected, a wire for the transmission "forgot the name of it, but technically it was a cable with a piece of plastic that connected to the throttle", air filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery temperature sensor, ignition coil, several missing fuses, I got a new code.
This code came up and I believe it is the same code that came up before, but I think it got masked by the battery temperature sensor and the "random cylinder misfire." It only appears when I reach speeds of 60 mph or above, the code is P1899 and when I took it to Autozone, Oreilly's, and Dick Poe Dodge, they were unable to figure out what the code meant.
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I have just replaced a fuel pump on my 98 neon and it started up and then shut off after about 5 minutes. there is electricity running to the pump just not kicking it over what could be the problem
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My neon has a leak that was diagnosed today as a rear main seal. I realize this is an expensive repair and am wondering two things:
1) Can I limp it along until next Spring by adding oil as needed?
2) Can try stop leak additives? If so, which one?
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I have a 2001 Plymouth neon and the coolant fan cuts on and off about every 30 seconds .
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I noticed a knocking sound from my 1996 Plymouth Neon when I hit some bumps. Poked my head underneath and see what appears to be the strut loose inside the spring. I am afraid that the "Damper Shaft Nut" came undone somehow? If so, how do I remove the quick-strut? Is the spring in danger of being sprung?
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When I changed the alternator on my 2000 plymouth neon, I crossed the wires for the plug. Now the fuel pump fuse keeps blowing, when it turns over, which isn't often. I turn the key and nothing happens.
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I have a 95 neon SOHC that drives with a very high Idle. Not all the time, but 85% of the time witch i find strange. This has been going on for the better part of a year and the car is almost undrivable. Its putting a hurting on my breaks for sure.
I had replaced the PCM 5 years ago. Replaced the timing belt 2 months ago. I have searched all around for vacuum leaks but am not able to find anything. I pulled the throttle body off and cleaned it very well. I replaced the IAC.
The car continues to idle out of control as if the IAC is wide open. The only way to get the car to idle correctly is to cover the idle hole in the throttle body 90% up with my finger. The guy at Auto Zone said if its not IAC or vacuum hoses, then I should start replacing sensors. How do I diagnose this problem?
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I have a 95 neon that is running a very high Idle. When you remove your foot off the break & gas it idles around 40 mph. Iv just replaced all the breaks and its melting the new ones already. I am receiving the following check Engine Codes: 12, 25, 32, 15. I have completed the following repairs:
1) replaced all vacuum lines.2) removed EGR Valve to clean, replaced all lines. No more engine code 32, however, now I am getting engine code: 12, 23, 25, 15.3) removed intake manifold to replace the PCV Valve as well as all hoses from the oil separator.4) replaced the IAC sensor5) used ohm meter to check all wiring from IAC to computer. no issues.6) replaced the TPC sensor7) used a ohm meter to check all wiring from the TPC to the computer. No issues.8) used a ohm meter to see if the air temperature sensor was working correctly. No issues9) checked wiring from Air temperature sensor to computer, no issues.
The car continues to idle extremely high to the point it is not safe to drive. By feeling the throttle body where the IAC lets in air, it feels like its comply open. I pulled the IAC out of the throttle body while it was plugged in and ground to the engine block. When you turn the car on you can see the IAC move, but it never seems to want to shut off air supply.
It appears the computer is telling it to let more air in even though its very high idle. I replaced the computer about 5 years ago. what would cause this?! Im to the point iv put in way too much time and money already. but I don't want to buy a new car when it could just be a $50 fix.
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I have a 2011 Toyota tacoma with 35k miles. Yesterday while driving at about 70-75mph on the freeway with no warning the vehicle shut down and the engine light came on. It made a clunk about the the time it shut off, it wasn't very loud but I could feel it. I'n not sure if that noise was just the vehicle powering down or transmission kicking from the change in torque? I pulled off the freeway, there were no fluids leaking, serpentine belt was in place. The truck will turn over but not start. The check engine light flashes rapidly.
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My Neon needed a water pump. At 204K miles the timing belt should be replaced also. The pump and belt were replaced. The motor started and the car drove about 1000ft. and stopped. There was no more spark. The car was checked to make sure that the timing belt is on correctly. The cam points to top dead center when the #1 cylinder is at peak and the crankshaft is at top dead center. Both marks align. When the key is turned the starter tries to turn but the engine does not spark. Electricity goes to the coil pack. 1998 Dodge Neon 2.0L SOHC 4 cylinder....
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Wife was driving her car and went around a corner when out of the blue it died. Unable to re-start. I've replaced plugs, wires, coil pack and still no response. I'm not a mechanic and don't know where any of the sensors are located. I tried doing the self-diagnostics test but now none of the dash lights come on. Car cranks just fine. I've heard that it may be sensors, it could be the safety switch. It's a 95 Plymouth Neon Sport, 2.0 SOHC Five Speed manual.
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I've got this 96 neon. I can drive it to work and almost exactly 10 miles into the trip everyday I notice a subtle chug. Then it gets worst and within a couple of miles it chugs progressively worse until it dies. I pull over to the side of the road for 5-10 minutes. Then I can start it back up and run down the road another 3-5 miles before it happens again. I've changed the computer, coil, cam positioning sensor, O2 sensor, gutted the cat, changed plugs and wires. I'm to the end of my rope with this car. The codes that its throwing are no dice.
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Like the title says my 98 stang will not start when the engine is hot. It starts perfectly when the engine is cold. When the engine is at normal operating temp the starter cranks like normal but the engine will not catch. If i give it a little gas while cranking it the engine will start until i take my foot off the gas then it shuts down. after i leave the car for about and hour it will start. I have new plugs, wires, alternator, fuel filter, air filter and my last oil change was three weeks ago. the battery holds a good 12.6v, I had the timing fixed in june. I jumped the fuel pump relay and there is good pressure up to the fuel filter.
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I drove my 1998 VW passat to work last week, a day after changing spark plugs, fuel and oil filter, and engine oil. After work, the car refused to spark. Had to leave it overnight. Till today, the vehicle has refused to spark even though my electricians keep telling everything seems to be ok. The latest I was told was that the engine has lost pressure. What does that mean and what is the possible remedy?
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Alright here comes another head scratcher, the car has no check engine lights, no oil is leaking, and all of the liquid levels are at their normal readings. The problem I am having is the car feels like it is dragging a bit, as in it takes a bit to accelerate and as soon as I lift my foot off the gas it drastically slows down.
Talk about 0 to 60 in 30 seconds and 60 to 30 in 5 seconds. Now what I have noticed is every time I pass a radar detecting sign, to make sure you are going the speed limit or slower, which in this case it is supposed to be 25 mph, my speedometer will read 30 to 35 mph, but the sign will state I am going 23 or 24 mph.
I know the detector is working because I tested it with my dad's Buick and while the Buick stated 20 the detector also stated 20, I know what you are saying maybe it's just a fluke, well I tested the detector with my brothers cougar, my sisters Honda, and my friends Chrysler and they all stated 20 both on speedometer and the detector. I have changed the spark plugs, the ecm, the ignition coil, the spark plug wires, starter, the valve cover gasket, hoses that were broken, the speed sensor, cam shaft position sensor and it passed the state inspection.
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I have a 2000 Plymouth Breeze 2.4L.
When I make sharp turns in either direction, I get a grinding noise.
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Over the last week my GX has developed a strange issue. It sometimes takes 3 or 4 tries of turning the key before the engine fires up. It turns over strongly and quickly but it isn't "catching". The weird thing is, it doesn't happen every time. Here is what I have noticed:
1) Leave the vehicle parked overnight - no issues starting. It starts right up.
2) Crank the vehicle after having only been off a few minutes (like after you run in to pick something up at the grocery store) it cranks right up.
3) Let the vehicle sit for between 1 and 4 or 5 hours and the problem appears. It turns over and over and over but won't actually start. Anywhere between the 3rd and 5th turn of the key it will finally catch and actually crank.
In all cases, once it cranks it runs smoothly and normally with no issues.
I have replaced the battery thinking that was the issue but that did not fix the problem. Also strange is the fact that this problem occurred after I replaced both front door speakers, an operation that required me to have one or more doors open for an hour or so at a time (hence why I thought it might be a weak battery).
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As I have been going speeds of 60-65mph, all of a sudden it acted like I downshifted or as if I slammed on the brakes. The rpms stay up, and it lasts just a second and continues fine. It almosts acts like something is catching. I had a mechanic replace the rotor and front brakes thinking that was the problem but it did it again this morning. A different mechanic thinks it could be the drive shaft and cv joints although everything is tight and the cv boots aren't cracked or anything.
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I have a 1997 Plymouth breeze. My car lately has been having issues when it accelerates. When ever I go over 3000 rpm's to quickly the whole front dash would turn off. The car still runs fine though and the head lights still stay on. When I let go of the gas the front dash would turn back on. It would eventually turn off again once I pass the 3000 rpm mark. I went to autozone to check the battery and their reader said that the battery was bad. I just want to make sure it is the battery before I buy a new one though.
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