Plymouth - Neon :: 1998 - Getting Error Code P1899 At High Speed?
Jul 19, 2015
Ok, ready for a new head scratcher? After replacing the starter, the battery cables, the camshaft position sensor, several hoses that were broken and/or disconnected, a wire for the transmission "forgot the name of it, but technically it was a cable with a piece of plastic that connected to the throttle", air filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery temperature sensor, ignition coil, several missing fuses, I got a new code.
This code came up and I believe it is the same code that came up before, but I think it got masked by the battery temperature sensor and the "random cylinder misfire." It only appears when I reach speeds of 60 mph or above, the code is P1899 and when I took it to Autozone, Oreilly's, and Dick Poe Dodge, they were unable to figure out what the code meant.
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I have a 1998 plymouth neon that is leaking oil from the filler cap, I have replaced the cap 4 times and it still leaks from this same spot. What it might be?
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I have a 1998 Plymouth Neon that will start after it has cooled completely, and be fine through out the day, but when I get home from school and I start it again, it makes a strange screeching noise, and after turning off the engine and trying to restart the car, the vehicle will not start again, but all of the lights work, the battery is fine, the alternator is okay, the starter is a brand new OEM part, new ignition coil, new spark plugs, new safety neutral switch, new speed sensor, new battery cables, new camshaft position sensor, the only extra thing it does have is fog lights that were not put in by the dealership, this was done when my uncle still owned this car back in 1999. The only other problem that it has is an Error code of P1899 (Safety/Neutral Switch Stuck) and at times when turning the steering wheel, it will make a screeching noise halfway turned until you let go a bit, and then it is able to completely be turned either way, and one last thing is that the speedometer was a bit erratic one time, while I was driving home on the freeway.
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I have a 95 neon SOHC that drives with a very high Idle. Not all the time, but 85% of the time witch i find strange. This has been going on for the better part of a year and the car is almost undrivable. Its putting a hurting on my breaks for sure.
I had replaced the PCM 5 years ago. Replaced the timing belt 2 months ago. I have searched all around for vacuum leaks but am not able to find anything. I pulled the throttle body off and cleaned it very well. I replaced the IAC.
The car continues to idle out of control as if the IAC is wide open. The only way to get the car to idle correctly is to cover the idle hole in the throttle body 90% up with my finger. The guy at Auto Zone said if its not IAC or vacuum hoses, then I should start replacing sensors. How do I diagnose this problem?
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I have a 95 neon that is running a very high Idle. When you remove your foot off the break & gas it idles around 40 mph. Iv just replaced all the breaks and its melting the new ones already. I am receiving the following check Engine Codes: 12, 25, 32, 15. I have completed the following repairs:
1) replaced all vacuum lines.2) removed EGR Valve to clean, replaced all lines. No more engine code 32, however, now I am getting engine code: 12, 23, 25, 15.3) removed intake manifold to replace the PCV Valve as well as all hoses from the oil separator.4) replaced the IAC sensor5) used ohm meter to check all wiring from IAC to computer. no issues.6) replaced the TPC sensor7) used a ohm meter to check all wiring from the TPC to the computer. No issues.8) used a ohm meter to see if the air temperature sensor was working correctly. No issues9) checked wiring from Air temperature sensor to computer, no issues.
The car continues to idle extremely high to the point it is not safe to drive. By feeling the throttle body where the IAC lets in air, it feels like its comply open. I pulled the IAC out of the throttle body while it was plugged in and ground to the engine block. When you turn the car on you can see the IAC move, but it never seems to want to shut off air supply.
It appears the computer is telling it to let more air in even though its very high idle. I replaced the computer about 5 years ago. what would cause this?! Im to the point iv put in way too much time and money already. but I don't want to buy a new car when it could just be a $50 fix.
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My neon has a leak that was diagnosed today as a rear main seal. I realize this is an expensive repair and am wondering two things:
1) Can I limp it along until next Spring by adding oil as needed?
2) Can try stop leak additives? If so, which one?
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I have a 2001 Plymouth neon and the coolant fan cuts on and off about every 30 seconds .
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I noticed a knocking sound from my 1996 Plymouth Neon when I hit some bumps. Poked my head underneath and see what appears to be the strut loose inside the spring. I am afraid that the "Damper Shaft Nut" came undone somehow? If so, how do I remove the quick-strut? Is the spring in danger of being sprung?
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When I changed the alternator on my 2000 plymouth neon, I crossed the wires for the plug. Now the fuel pump fuse keeps blowing, when it turns over, which isn't often. I turn the key and nothing happens.
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So i got a 98 passat sedan used and was told it read a p0411 code. The person at autozone told him it was a cam sensor. The sensor was replaced. I know now from the manual that codes reads for sec. Air injection system , incorrect flow. It could be the vacuum lines. Now lets say it is the vacuum lines. Their is a misfire on cylinders 1-3.
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Got a 98 Subaru Forester with 130,000mi. Good car so far. Just got a good deal on a scanner and it reports 1 code - PO0400. I see it mean EGR flow error. What is the most probable cause or a troubleshoot process to narrow it down? My repair manuals on the car are kind of lacking and I can't even find the blasted EGR valve! I thought I found it but I think it's the knock sensor.
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About 3 days ago I noticed my engine RPM was around 250 higher than usual. Usually my truck idles around 550-600 rpm (I know this is low). Anyway, yesterday it threw the P1506 "IAC over Speed Error" Code. It is idling very rough, shifting weird, but does crank up fine.
My truck is now at 93,000 miles and I just cleaned the IAC at 87,000 miles due to the common no start condition. I guess I am going to get a new IAC now since another code came up.
Well, my question is it came up with two other codes also:
P0171 - System too Lean, Bank No. 1
P0174 - System too Lean, Bank No. 2
Do you think the P1506 (IAC Code) made the O2 Sensor codes show up or is it really the O2 Sensors? I just changed my two upstream O2 Sensors around 90,000 miles. Should I get a new IAC or try to clean it again?
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1998 saturn SL2 idle speed changes low, high, back to low. Some times the car dies, can happen any time a few times in traffic. Once the engines dies the idle stays low for 5 minutes, then the problem goes away for a while (a week). You never know when it will happen.
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My 1998 GMC Sierra K1500 has developed an intermittent high speed miss. I doesn't miss while idling but with no apparent regularity it will jerk as though the engine lost power for just a moment. I just replaced the distributor cap and rotor and the plugs and plug wires appear to be fairly new (I bought the truck last May). The truck has about 213,000 miles on it.
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1999 F150 4.2L 125K miles.... My problems started about a month ago. I had a P1506 error. The engine was running fine but received the error code. I replaced the IAC and the air filter. Engine still running fine. A week later I received a code for the Intake Air Temp Sensor (don't remember the code). The engine still running great. I bought a new Air Temp Sensor and noticed the wires from the Air Temp Sensor were rubbing against the belt and had been severed. I made a mistake when replacing the air filter of not checking the wires (confession is good right).
The engine also constantly ran a fast idle 2000 to 2500 at this time. I repaired the wires. The engine light went off and idle now starts great and smooth but when heats up will will go to 2000-2500. I then decided to replace the Air Temp Sensor hoping to fix idle problem. Engine still idle fast when warm. However, when I come to a stop and put in neutral the engine will take a minute but go down to normal idle after sitting. Engine light stayed off for a week. Now engine light back on with original code P1506. Idle is still not working correctly.
I feel like I made it worse than it was originally and not sure what to try next.
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I have a 2007 prius. About a month my dad has lightly knocked the car with a wall at the front left side of the car. the coolant tank has been pushed & the pump has started giving abnormal noise whenever running but the problem is that i got a check engine light with the red triangle & a sign on the multi-information display. I have pulled the tank to its right place & released the pump after cleaning the calcification and so the noise has stopped & i have disconnected the battery during working & so the error code has gone.
After about one day the check engine light has came back alone & the reading was P1150 which means a coolant path clog.
I have tried all I can & done some tests; the water temp. in the coolant tank is hot even after hours of driving. I think there's no clot because when i cleaned the pump i have puffed into the tubes after disconnecting some connections & the air was going out easily from all openings. I have resetted the error code 2 times
now i'm having a new phenomenon.. in the past 2 days during driving & especially when i pull hard on the pedal & when the battery is in its lowest level . Suddenly the red triangle show up with sign that indicate a high temperature on the multi display. These signs don't remain more than 3-5 seconds & then disappear.
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So have my first code and its the P0088 error. Seems to be a reading that fuel pressure is high. I feel no loss of power or any issues when it throws this. HAs Happened 2 times in the fast 3 months and the last one seemed to clear itself after a couple hours. VW is saying its APR stage 1 even through APR tunes (stage 1) don't change the fuel pressure. Not sure if its a sensor issue, the start of a bad HPFP or simply a weird effect from the tune. Again I have no power loss or any other notable issues.
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I have a 2005 hyundia elantra, i just recently noticed mainly while I was driving on the freeway or at higher speeds when I let my foot off the pedal my vehicle would slightly jerk and quickly decrease speed for a second, I then noticed my engine light was on. I stopped at a free computer test auto shop (o' reiley's ) and the test stated trouble code p1505 code definition - idle charge actuator signal - low of coil 1.
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I have received the error code P1506 on my 1999 F150 which is I believe an idle air control overspeed error. It seems to run a little rough at idle but not too bad. At the advice of my Haynes repair manual and the advice of a friend I have already replaced the IAC valve and the PCV valve on the engine and cleared the code, only for it to come back again after 50K miles. I am not sure where to go next with the diagnosis/fix.
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I have a 98 Explorer Eddie Bauer edition with electronic climate control w/ steering wheel temp and fan controls.
Just yesterday, I was running the a/c set at 74 degrees and it was working great as usual. Then suddenly the fan went from high speed to nothing. The auto control was still on, just the fan stopped blowing. After about a minute when the inside of the vehicle heated up some, the fan kicked back in on high speed. I tried to adjust the fan speed via the steering wheel switches and found that the fan only has high and off speeds.
What should I look for that would cause the fan speeds to stop working or only work on high?
1998 V6 4.0L
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I have a 1998 blazer 4x4... I had a issues with the car before and I had to turn the idle screw up until I fixed my problem. I now fixed my problem and I need to know what my idle rpm should be at.
After I fixed the original problem after about a day of driving I had a P0507 Idle speed High/Low. I turned the set screw down and lowered my rpm. After about 5min of driving the code went away on its own.
About 1 week later I am now getting the P0507 again and now it has a buddy. P0446 Evap System.
Questions what would my idle rpm be? Can the high rpm cause the EVAP code as well.
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