Plymouth - Breeze :: 1997 - Loss Of Power Going Uphill
Mar 26, 2013
I lose power in my 97 Plymouth Breeze when driving up hills. Drives fine everywhere else but I lose power going uphill. Replaced the plugs and wires.
View 2 RepliesI lose power in my 97 Plymouth Breeze when driving up hills. Drives fine everywhere else but I lose power going uphill. Replaced the plugs and wires.
View 2 RepliesMy Plymouth Breeze is having issues starting up. It started a while back, my wife was driving the car and she got stranded because her car wouldn't start. I gave her a jump. I had the battery and alternator tested and the battery was bad, but supposedly that alternator is good--so I replaced the battery. We get a week or twos use out of it, and the the rear brakes sprung a leak-- so I replaced the rear brake lines. When I tried take the new brakes lines for a test drive the car wouldn't start. I have a battery charger and used the 50 amp start feature, the car would still not start (it would turn over but not start). So I gave the battery a deep charge from the battery charger and the next day it was fine. My wife used it for a week and all seemed well. That is until the other day where she tells me it has a new problem.
Apparently the defroster randomly turns off and on, and the vent constantly switches which direction it is blowing. She took it out for a drive while it was like this and got stranded again. I went to give her a jump and the car wouldn't start at all. In fact none of the electrical came on, it was as if the battery had been disconnected. So we eventually get the car towed, and as I put the key in the ignition to put the car in neutral I hear the beeping to indicate the car door is open. I tried to start it and all of the electrical shut off again. So the guys tows car back, having to push it into a parking spot. I realized the tow truck driver left the keys in the ignition and it just occurs to me he had rolled the window down. I get in the car and turn the key and it starts up without hesitation, like there were not problems at all. Needless to say I'm a little confused and frustrated with this car. I'd like to get another year or so out of it before I replace it.
So here is what I am thinking...Battery: This should be fine I just replaced it.Alternator: I had it tested coupled with the last scenario leads me to believe this probably isn't the problem, but is suspect.Starter: This seems to work when there is power, so I don't think that is it.Fuses: They either work or they don't, there is no "getting better" so I doubt it is a fuse.Computer: I think this might be the culprit. Before I had to give it another jump (when it wouldn't take) things were turning off and on at random. It is also the only thing I can think of that might act in a fickle way.
Another theory is a loose wire coming off of the battery.
I have a 1997 Plymouth breeze. My car lately has been having issues when it accelerates. When ever I go over 3000 rpm's to quickly the whole front dash would turn off. The car still runs fine though and the head lights still stay on. When I let go of the gas the front dash would turn back on. It would eventually turn off again once I pass the 3000 rpm mark. I went to autozone to check the battery and their reader said that the battery was bad. I just want to make sure it is the battery before I buy a new one though.
View 10 RepliesI was wondering if I can replace my overflow tube for my gas tank without replacing the whole gas tank. I know I will have to drop the tank and get new straps to install it, but would I need a completely new tank or can I buy an overflow tube separately?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 Plymouth Breeze 2.4L.
When I make sharp turns in either direction, I get a grinding noise.
As I have been going speeds of 60-65mph, all of a sudden it acted like I downshifted or as if I slammed on the brakes. The rpms stay up, and it lasts just a second and continues fine. It almosts acts like something is catching. I had a mechanic replace the rotor and front brakes thinking that was the problem but it did it again this morning. A different mechanic thinks it could be the drive shaft and cv joints although everything is tight and the cv boots aren't cracked or anything.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1996 Plymouth Breeze and its been a pretty trustworthy car for the last few years. Lately however I have noticed a gurgling sound coming from the coolant reservoir whenever it the thermostat gauge hits about 50%. It cools right back down to a little over 25% and the sound goes away. I don't think its a leak in my head gasket as there is not any oil in my coolant or coolant in my oil, and its not over heating.
View 10 Replies1999 saab 9 3 loss of power going up hill and when accelerating, have had the catalytic converter replaced, the turbo thingy checked and blown out, the muffler checked and found no problem, It has been put on the machine at 2 different dealers and no problem found...
View 1 RepliesTowing a 5th wheel at about 10,000 lbs total. Towards the end of out 9 hour trip home and going upgrade the truck begins to loos power and the engine starts making some bad sounds. Although its hard to hear it starts about 45 seconds in and continues later when going uphill. the truck also made a very high pitched squealing/scraping sound (not a belt) like it may have been coming from the turbo. Oil temp was about 220, trans temp at 170 at the time of the event.
Truck has 216k, stock, upgraded trans cooler, original fuel pump.
Here is the video : YouTube.....
I just recently bought an 06 Santa Fe with a 2.7l v6. It was a rebuild. It had been hit in the left wheel. The lot put a new fender, suspension parts, axle, etc. It only has 25k actual miles.
We took it on a 100 mile trip today. I noticed if I am going up hill and it has to downshift, it feels like it looses power. The car continues to slow... Like the tranny is slipping. I stopped at Walmart and found the tranny fluid wouldn't even register on the dipstick. I bought Valvoline max life tranny fluid that matches the sp3 specs in the manual. I had to add almost 3 quarts before it was full. I think they may have forgot to add fluid back to replace what leaked out after they replaced the axle It didn't seem to work though when I continued to drive. After I stopped and let it cool about 30 minutes, it did seem a little better.
I guess my question is should I replace the tranny fluid? If so, what should I replace it with? Is there anything else what could be causing this now?
Occasionally my 2013 tdi has weird transmission issues. Usually it is from a start from a stop sign, typically when I am driving uphill. What happens is I step on the gas and it takes maybe 3-5 full seconds to respond and actually start moving. It is a total loss of power. What could be happening? I took it to the dealer and they said they "tuned the transmission" or something that I don't really buy because I still have the issue occasionally. I had this issue from day one and now have about 25k miles on the car.
View 6 RepliesI bought 08 6.4 113000 on it 4x4 lariet drove 300 miles home. No problem 2 days later runs fine for 45 minutes than loses power and sputters up hills starts no problem every morning every time wait awhile sometimes runs fine was on e when test drove canged both fuel filters oil and drained 8 quarts tranny fluid and replaced it. When problematic rpms wont go over 2 turbo psi seems high seems in sync with rpms dropped...
View 3 RepliesSeveral years ago my '63 Valiant had some overheating issues, which I resolved with some stop-leak. This weekend, feeling neglectful, I washed her, added a quart of oil, and added some premixed coolant. That evening when I drove it, it overheated. I know, if it ain't broke, don't fix it, but now what do I do? It's obviously lost coolant. I'm leaning towards putting more stop leak and more coolant, but I don't want to make things worse. I'd rather not have to replace the radiator right now, but I will if I have to.
View 4 RepliesWorking on my bosses 97 Econoline conversion van. The steering wheel was flopping in the breeze, gear indicator was off and some of the time it would be in reverse when you thought it was in park. Checked the torx on the shift cable plate and they are tight. Replaced the 2 bushings on the shift column. They tightened up the steering wheel flopping around. I checked the shift cable and it appears to be in good shape.
It would start sometimes if you worked the shifter in park or moved it to neutral. Now it will not turn over. Shift lock actuator does not appear to be working. Does not lock it park. No continuity between any of the three pins with the actuator pushed in or out. If you turn the key you can take it out of park without pushing on the brake. Really do not know the series of events that have to occur to make it turn over. How to trouble shoot the problem?
I have a 97 F150XL 4x4 a few days ago i was driving and i started to lose power i had to take it out of overdrive just to maintain 60mph by the end of the day it took a good 45 seconds to a full minute to get up to 10 mph. I have been told it is the catalytic converter, anything that would cause this it has a lope when stopped at a light but is fine when in park it acts like its flooding when I take off from a stop but the faster I go after taking off the flooding feel goes away and just seems like a lack of power. That morning i put on a EGR vacuum solenoid and an o2 sensor...
View 14 RepliesYesterday had my truck 1999 ford f150 v8 4x4 it was just sitting there idling fine then it all of sudden sounded like it was about to stall then began idling fine again. It has some hesitation on take off and when going about 40 mph
View 4 RepliesMy grand voyager 1997 plymouth 3.3 looses fuel pressure overnight... It won't start until I crank it for 5 min or longer... I checked with fuel gauge tester, and while it runs it reads 50lbs, after hours it drops to 0 ... Injectors don't leak ... What's up with this van?
View 3 RepliesOk so I have a 2001 f150 4.6l 4x4 I purchase it recently and have been having some issues it has a huge power loss on take off and even while driving I have changed plugs coils tested almost every sensor and am at a loss at this point. No check engine light on or codes...
View 8 Replies97 Accord Lx - 215k miles - 4 cyl. - regular maintenance. It's been my daily driver for over 5 years and been running perfectly.
Yesterday I drove the 35 miles from work back to my town but before going home stopped to visit someone for about an hour. When I came out to leave I noticed a larger than normal amount of fluid in the drive. I just thought it was condensation from the AC and that it was more because it was extremely hot yesterday (100+).
When I got within 2 miles of the house the 1st thing was that the AC was not blowing as cold. I turned it off. Then the engine seemed to "pulse" with loss of power, and the temperature gauge was maxed out. As I pulled into the driveway the engine light and oil pressure light came on.
After it cooled down I checked and the coolant was a little low, so I topped it off. The oil was really low and I added three quarts to bring it to full.
This morning I started it up and let it idle while I finished getting ready (5-10 minutes) and the temp gauge was about 1/3rd of the way up (where it normally is). It sounded, felt, and drove as normal but after a mile or so the gauge was climbing extremely fast so I turned around and took it back home.
What it might be? Water pump?
Ive got a 2001 f-150, 5.4L, 121k miles. I've replaced the fuel filter, removed and cleaned all injectors, cleaned MAF, changed 2 faulty coil packs, and installed all new plugs.
No codes thrown, truck runs smooth. Problem is intermittent. It will act as though it's got no power, usually won't happen till it's warm. I can drive it for 2 hours, runs strong. Sometimes when I pull onto a highway and get on the throttle a bit, it starts to hesitate, rpm's go to about 3k and it hesitates, but does not miss. acts like trans is slipping but I'm positive it's not.
So when it starts to do this, it's constant. I can continue to drive and it's runs terrible, does ok if you barely use any throttle. But.... I can be driving 40-50mph while it's having this problem, toss it in neutral, turn it off and restart, and all the power is back, great acceleration, as if nothing ever happened.
My 99 F150 4x4, 5.4 triton all of a sudden got very loud and has a loss of power. To me, it sounds like a cylinder is straight open to the atmosphere. I at first thought a spark plug blew out or an injector somehow came dislodged but I checked and everything seems ok. It's coming from the passenger side somewhere but is so loud under the hood I can't tell exactly where.
I took the valve cover off to see if a valve is stuck open or something, but I don't really know what I'm looking at as far as internal engine goes. I turned the crank by hand with a ratchet and the valves seem to follow the cams, but I've never inspected valves before so don't really know what to look for. What could be causing this loss of power and incredibly loud noise?