Phaeton :: Knocking After Cold Start - Sound Of Lifters Clicking?
Aug 13, 2009
Since I had my 40k service a few months back, I hear a knocking sound for about 3-5 seconds after a cold start (overnight is long enough). It's a pretty loud clicking sound, even worse if the car hasn't been started for a few days.
I brought it to the dealership and they said it's "the sound of the lifters clicking before they get pressurized with oil". They said the oil level is fine. Doesn't seem kosher to me - didn't happen before the 40k service.
Could they have used the wrong oil? Or perhaps didn't put something back together again properly?
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There's a thread similar to this on the front page, but I wouldn't exactly describe my issue as a "rattle".
I've got a good video of the sound it's making here : [URL] .....
It's definitely much louder with the hood up--doesn't seem quite as drastic when sitting in the driver's seat.
I've come across the thread here on the engine rattle/knock fix, but I'm not sure if this is the same thing. Would this be considered a knock?
It's a 2011 Elantra with about 82,000 miles on the odometer. It has an extended warranty on it, in addition to the 100,000 mile powertrain warranty on it, so it's at the dealership this morning.
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2005(its NF model) Sonata 2.4 petrol manual. 75000 miles. On cold start makes knocking sound( sound like Diesel). After coupe of minutes when warms up the knocking sound gone.
Also when i start driving( still on cold engine) i hear that sound only when i let go from gas pedal and only in range of 1800-1500 rpm. When i accelerate i don't hear that knocking sound.
I think is not belt tensioner because sound is much longer than couple of sec.
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2006 Sonata LX. It's only on a cold start up and lasts for about 30-45 seconds tops..and then it goes away. Car has 74k on it. Treated well. Only use synthetic oil and no check engine lights. Last oil change I put 5w 30 in it. I know it says to use 5w 20. Could this be the problem?
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This start this morning on my way to work. When I took my foot off the gas I would hear a clicking knocking sound the sound slowed down as the car slowed down. Any time I took my foot of the gas this would happen. Was still there when I hit the break. If i had my foot just barely on the gas it would go way. Its an automatic 2000 Accent 156K miles.
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For the past couple of months my 2005 Avalon XLS has developed a clicking or knocking sound when I am turning right. I especially notice it when in reverse and turning right. Not only can you hear hit somewhat, but I can feel it vibrate through the brake pedal. It does do it while driving, but it is more noticeable when in reverse. It is also most noticeable when moving at slow speeds, such as in parking lots. It will also do it if the car is angle parked and the wheel is turning right.
Thus far my mechanic has replaced the struts, the linkage assembly, and done some work on the steering column. I'm tired of paying my mechanic to simply swap parts.
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My 2007 Hyundia Santa Fe has an erratic knocking/clicking sound when idling & has for about 6 months or so. Other than the clicking noise it drives just fine. I am wondering if this may be a result of a bad oil change experience I had in 2012. I'll explain ....
When driving home, once the car had warmed up, my oil pressure warning light came on whenever I came to a stop or idling. I thought this was strange but thought maybe it had to do with new oil fill & would go away.
All I knew was I didn't have the problem before the oil change - nor have I ever in all the time I have owned the car - seen the oil pressure light come on and stay on once the car is started. So I brought the car into Hyundai as soon as I could to explain the situation. They opened the oil filter compartment and quickly realized that whoever changed the filter neglected to put back a part that sits on top of the filter that regulates the oil pressure (only a $15 part without which the damage & cost of driving without is potentially huge).
There is more, but I think you get the drift. So, I am wondering if possible damage as a result of that faulty oil change might have something to do with my current problem or is it not possible given the time/km between when that happened and now? The car had just over 80,000 km at the time and currently has aprox 105,000. I have properly maintained the oil etc since that as well as prior to.
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I recently took my car in for service and complained of the exhaust clicking (very audible) after the car is off. This clicking can also be heard when the car is running too - it is not as prevalent though. The service advisor said she spoke with several technicians and they said this was normal. The reason they cited was the stainless steel exhaust system in the Phaeton. They also said that humidity will exacerbate the sound.
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2008 F-250 Lariat with EATC climate controls... My truck suffers from the knocking/buzzing/clicking that is apparently associated with faulty blend door actuators. I have been putting off getting them replaced because of the hefty price tag associated with tearing apart the dash and whatnot that is required to get to the lower actuator that sits right on the transmission tunnel. Anyhow, today was the first day I really needed A/C and it just wasn't cold. Cool yes, but not cold. Is there a way to determine if this is a function of the blend door(s) not doing their thing versus the system A/C needing a repair/recharge? I don't have access to any A/C equipment myself, how to determine if it's a blend door issue?
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So I decided to drive my car this morning after almost 2 weeks of it sitting in the garage, got to the parking structure, pushed the button to lower the windows so I can swipe my auto parking card and it rolled down fine. Then tried to close the window and heard this metallic clicking sound and the window wouldn't raise. Called the dealership and drove right to them to look into it. Now I am stuck with a Jetta until my car is fixed.
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Still trying to track down my electrical issues. While poking around in the engine compartment near the fuse panel by firewall - i heard a clicking sound coming from the two cylinders near the fuse panel.
They are cylinders - side by side - about 1 1/2 inch wide and 2 inches tall - with electrical connections and either fuel or vacuum lines attached. What are these? Some sort of solenoids? Are they part of the EVAP system?
How long should they continue to "click" after the car is turned off? Mine kept going for a half hour. I then disconnected the left side battery and it stopped. 5 hours later after fully charging the battery I hooked it up again - and the clicking came back. Is this normal or could it be a source of my battery drain?.
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When the engine of my 2007 Camry LE V6 is cold, it makes a ticking/knocking sound. The engine has 100,000 kms on it (60k miles). The frequency of the sound varies with the speed of the engine, not with the speed of the car.
When engine is cold: The sound happens roughly twice a second when the engine idles (at 700-800 rpm).
When engine is warm: The noise is less audible. It can be heard when idled at a stop, but you have to listen for it. The noise cannot be heard on the highway.
The car doesn't burn oil, and the oil level is ok. I had the oil changed 3000 kms ago, and it is still very clean (clear). The was the same before and after the oil change.
I am wondering if it could be the lifters, bad plug, or maybe a timing issue.
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My sis drove the Phaeton yesterday and we had to go through some nerve-wrecking parking. The gaps were only a few milimetres across but luckily we made it through the lot in the end. Anyway, we had to do a lot of full steering turns (that is, when the wheel is turned to its maximum) and there's a worrying clicking sound that goes on until the steering is turned back from its maximum radius. Is it a problem or just a minor thing?
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I recently changed my ATF. I refilled with Hyundai SP-III like a good little boy. The ATF fluid level is correct. It's right in the "Hot" range when the car is idling at operating temp.
Now, when I back out of my driveway when the vehicle is totally cold, then put in Drive, I hear a slight knocking sound after I get about 50 feet away. It's a single knock, not very loud, but discernible. If I drive even 1/2 mile and try again (i.e. back up a bit, then put it back in Drive), I can't reproduce it. It's only when the car is first backed out and driven away.
I have around 15K left on the warranty. I'd feel silly bringing it to the dealer for this, unless someone knew of an issue this might be a symptom of.
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I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 87000 miles, 6. I have this sound, sounds like the lifters,but it goes away and comes back on ,goes away,come s back. My mechanic said it could be exhaust manifold ,not her says lifters. My main mechanic told me to change my oil to 20/50 and put in STP oil treatment. that did not work,then told me about another oil treatments?
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Last night I experienced a somewhat troubling event. My C had a horrendous knocking on a cold start @40 Fahrenheit or so. Shook the whole car. It lasted about 3-5 seconds, and ran perfectly afterwards, even making another cold start later on @30 without issue.
How worried should I be, and what's my recommended course of action?
2015 Prius C TWO, not II as uppercase roman numerals were used for model year 2010 Prius, w/5616 miles
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My 2003 F-150 knocks pretty bad on my early morning cold start ups. It only happens if it had set for a while. Its not a knock coming from the bottom end it sounds like its coming from the top end, cams cam followers... etc. I was wondering if I should be concerned. I am running 5-20 mobil 1 with a motorcraft filter. My truck always seems to use a half a quart to a quart between oil changes too. The truck only has 60,000 pretty mild miles on it.
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I just took my 2002 Subaru into the dealer to have them fix a fuel line leak that I was hoping was on recall (it wasn't). I don't take my car to them regularly but they had to be the ones to diagnose it in case it was a recalled part. They called today and said that the fuel line was leaking onto my engine, that there was no recall, and that because they heard a ticking sound coming from my engine they were predicting my cam bearing was giving out and it would be $3000 to fix it. I asked how they diagnosed it and they said they have a guy there who knows the sound well and can hear it and predict it accurately, but they didn't actually take the engine apart or anything to check.
I'm feeling a bit confused. I will have my mechanic look at it and ask him what he thinks but he did my brakes not too long ago and did not mention any concern about the clicking. I change my oil like a responsible car owner and take care of it, but it does have 200,000 miles on it. I need to drive a long distance in a couple of weeks and am wondering if my engine is about to give out....
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What would cause a clicking sound when it is cold outside. When the temperature is -20 Celsius the truck makes a loud clicking sound upon acceleration. When the truck is at idle it goes away. When the truck warms up it goes away. What this might be?
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I have a 1998 ranger 2.5L engine. I took it to a Ford garage and they told me I have a rod knock..........I took it also to a good mechanic and he said the sound is coming from the lifters.
There is 172000 miles on motor and the noise started at 131000, and is getting worse. Should I drive it till it blows, or is there a way to tell what the problem is?
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Recently, our 2009 Sonata jumps to relatively high and not normal RPM when start cold (and I don't mean winter-cold; I mean first start in the morning). It jumps to around 2500 rpm for 3-4 seconds before it goes down to the normal 1200-1300 or so for a cold start.
Also, not sure if this is the normal Sonata engine sound, but when we push the accelerator it sounds like the engine is knocking, almost like a whistle of fuel flowing.
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