Phaeton :: Knocked Spring Latch Off While Installing The Driver Side Light
Feb 16, 2014
While installing the driver's side light I knocked the spring latch off. I need a shot of the latch in place. To me the directions say the latch is on the inboard side, mine the hinge is in that position. There were some pictures posted by 357sig in the directions but I can't open them. I have the other air box loose but not out. I read that the passenger side can be changed with just moving the air box out of the way.
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I found a broken spring hanging in my drivers side door latch.The power lock is now inoperatable, my question is can I buy just the spring or do I have to buy the whole latch-? I'm new here and can't find the answer,also will door need to be disassembled to install the spring.
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I have a 2004 Phaeton and the passenger side headlight cover spring is missing or broken. What is the part number or have diagram of part?
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Driving to work this morning my 'please check lights' warning came on and sure enough my drivers side side light bulb seems to have failed.
Trying to look via search and many threads to see how much work is involved to replace this tiny bulb. The car is due a service shortly and i could get the VW dealer to sort this out but is this going to be something daft like 3hours labour/bumper removal or is it an easy DIY?
This is the first thing to 'fail' in 2.5 years of owenership and not one that needs immediate remedy but would like to sort it out. Presumably i can buy the bulb cheaply enough from VW or Halfords as its not HID etc.
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The drivers side door of my 03 Gti will not latch shut, started once in a while & a slam cured it, but no more.
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This happened a few days ago, that the driver's side door handle does not release the latch and let the driver door open. we can open the door fine from inside. the remote key un-locks/locks the door fine. What I've tried :
- Slamming the door hard a few times,
- Pulling both the inside and outside door handles at the same time
- Greasing the latch mechanism on the door end (what hooks onto the latch)
Today I removed the lock cylinder, but from what i can see with the cylinder removed the door handle looks ok (no broken or missing pieces). What would be the next thing to do?
2010 Tiguan SE
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Door on the T-reg that is hard to get latched completely? I'm finding a need to reopen/slam the driver's door on a regular basis. Is this something the dealer can "adjust" for me? What would it involve? I don't think the other three doors need to be slammed anywhere near as hard.
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A very tiny (1cm) spring broke and came out from the small trunk latch. The trunk will no longer close and catch or lock. Where to purchase that small spring and how to put it back? 2002 V6 B5.5 Passat ....
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Boston winter roads got the best of my 2009 Camry LE, and now I have a broken spring on the driver's side front tire. I have yet to find a trusted mechanic in the area. Do I need to go to a dealer, or is it basic enough to do?
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A spring popped out of the door pocket in the driver side door when someone tried to clean it pulling it out (which they shouldn't have done). I have the two springs but I need a diagram on how to open the door to get inside the panel to put it back. How the door comes apart ? I can try to guess but you know there is always a trick.
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Instead a set of VWR springs yesterday on my GTI. Initially driving it, everything seemed fine. After about 20 miles and taking an off ramp aggressively, I noticed a squeaking noise from my drivers side when I go over bumps. I cannot pin point what may be causing it.
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My uncle has a 2002 Explorer and the driver side rear spring is cracked. I have agreed to fix this as he is on a tight budget and has no mechanical skills or tools for that matter.
Anyhow, I did some reading and have two monroe quickstruts to replace the OEM stuff. I did not want to screw around with a spring compresser and everything else. Were in Michigan, and I can only imagine how rusted the bolts are on this. So I figured getting the whole unit with new hardware would be the best route.
Hopefully these are easy questions. (I do not have the truck to look at right now, and will be doing this Saturday Morning)
I have air tools, Jackstands, 2 floor jacks, a bottle jack, and everything else I need at this point including PB Blaster, rags, pry bars, sockets, etc.
1. I am assuming once I get the truck in the air, I will put the frame on jack stands, and use the floor jacks to manipulate each side of the rear suspension as needed. If I remove the three top bolts, and the bottom bolt holding the shock, can I move the control arm down enough to get the old parts out?
2. What are the torque specs if any for the top three bolts, and the bottom shock bolt? I read the top three bolts are difficult to get out due to limited clearance, so I doubt a torque wrench will fit in there.
3. Would you locktite these top three bolts at all?
4. Weakest question of the day, What are the torque specs for the lug nuts.
5. Anything I have obviously missed? I have done front struts before with a compressor so I am somewhat familiar with the process. Just not on this car before.
6. When Im in this far, anything else I should look at. I will inspect the brake pads etc. Drain and fill the rear diff fluid if needed, etc.
I have searched high and low on the net to find a pictorial write up of the process....
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I've noticed a noise coming out of the rear seat for awhile now. Noticed today the driver side rear seat won't latch into position. Don't know how long it was like that. Even the lever inside the trunk is stuck in the closed position. It seems like I shouldn't be able to fold the seat down but I can't get it to close. The dealer said it would be a time consuming fix because they actually have to crawl inside the trunk to get to the assembly.
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The driver's side coil spring broke, but here's the story.
When I found out there was a recall on my 2004, I called the dealership. They told me that they were not replacing the coils springs, they were only going to attach a brace or bracket in case the coil springs would fail.
Well, last night the coil broke and it was in the parking lot and not at 50mph on the road.
What about bracket fix? It was told to me that it would only prevent the coil from cutting into the tire, not fix it.
I am going to call Hyundai HQ this morning, but what should I expect? Is it unreasonable to expect to get a set of springs and have someone local do the work?
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So I installed my H&R lowering springs about 2 months ago and I am very happy about the stance, ride, and handling up until about 2 weeks ago. The car always had a bit of a spring clunk coming out of the driver's side strut tower, but it has become more apparent and pronounced over the last few days. I already tightened the strut nut and shock tower bolts, what else is there to check out?
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2003 Ex, EB, bench style middle row. I have owned less than a year.
Purchased with a broken latch assembly the drivers side middle row...promptly replaced for $70. Today, it is broke again, less than a year. I am going to do some more investigating as to HOW this happened TWICE.
Chipped, broken housing on their middle latch assembly? It breaks the black part first, which holds the guts in alignment....once the black part slips down or up to far...the guts do not function.
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The driver side lock has jammed on my 2008 Mercury Milan Premier. Now I have to open my door by rolling down my window to get to the outside latch!
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It appears the spring that keeps pressure on the handle has broken, now the console lid won't stay latched.
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We took my 08 Touring down to Florida for our vacation, and while she performed great- {average 28-32mpg @ 70ish mph} -she fell shy of expectations when we hit a few light rains. At speeds above 70 the drivers wiper blade would clear on the up stroke but not on the down stroke....yes, 1st thoughts are go slower, but that isn't a real answer for me.
Before leaving I installed new brakes {rotors/pads/hardware} all around, new Michelin tires {all 5} and "new wiper blades" {rain-X}. The new brakes were very useful going thru the stop and go traffic in Atlanta, the new tires were very useful in the twisties of Tennesee's hills...but the wipers had me getting lapped often on the way back home due to the lifting issue above 70, so I kept to 65-70mph.
The way I see it, it's either the wiper blades not having enough "ramp" on the blade for the wind to push it down at speed, or the wiper arm tension spring is going soft.
My car is an '08 with 154k...{no leaks/motor still has great power/went 3400 miles and she didn't burn a drop of oil!}.
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I just realized my driver's side front leaf spring on my 2002 F250 has snapped. I checked the weight sticker on my truck and it weighs 5200lbs in the front. My question is the heaviest springs I found only support 2630lbs a piece, so being a 7.3 is 5200lbs a correct weight for the front of this truck? also why would Ford make springs that support only 60lbs more than the front weight? Hell I weight more than 60lbs.... Did I snap the damn thing just by climbing into the cab?!?!
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I have a nice 2000 Durango 4x4 SLT, automatic. I have some problems.
1) The drivers door outside latch will not open the door, the inside latch works fine.
2) The shifter on the transfer case is loose, it appears that the drive was left in 2wd since I have been able to use it. But it will not shift?
3) The steering wheel feels like it has a lot of play in it, also feels like a knuckle is in it when I turn it. It sometimes slips on turns at speed?
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