Not sure what they are called, but my front/right side/orange colored /non-blinker/US configured light is not illuminating. This is the fairly dim light that comes on along with the headlights.
It doesn't look easy to access in terms of bulb replacement, so how to get at it...or perhaps it's as simple as a fuse change.
When I acquired our 2004 V8 Phaeton in April of last year, it had the well-documented flickering headlight problem. In addition, the right low beam would sometimes "wink out", just long enough for a check lights warning, and then come back on. Sometimes it would do this twice a day, other times not for a month or more.
Last January or February I acquired a new set of HID low beam bulbs and, after a couple hours of jostling air boxes and sacrificing a little knuckle skin, replaced them. All was well, the new lights were solid with a slight blue hue.
About three months later, I got the 'check lights' warning, and saw that the right low beam was not illuminated. It remained in this status for the next two days, and then on the third day it rose again from the dead and was illuminated just as before. It may have even been around Easter.
This occurred one more time a couple months later, with a 'check lights' warning due to the right low beam staying off. This time it came back to life later in the day, on the next drive cycle. Now today the 'check lights' warning came once again, only this time the left low beam was out. It stayed out for my drive of 10 miles or so, and when I restarted the car two hours later it was fine again, as if nothing had ever happened.
Do these symptoms, with bulbs that have less than 100 hours on them, and happening individually to either right or left low beam, point to anything specific? This has always occurred during daylight hours, both with the headlight in the off position and in the 'tunnel' position. If I'm ever pulled over for a faulty light, I'd like to be able to tell the officer something other than "I'm sure they'll be okay by tomorrow..."
My '96 V8 seems to be inhabited by ghosts. These ghosts make their presence known by illuminating the brake lights at odd times. On several occasions during the last (very cold) few weeks, I have opened the garage to find the brake lights on. I open the door....look back....and they stay on. I sit down....look back....and they are off.
A few moments ago I started up to bed, and as I was turning off lights in the house, I saw an creepy red glow out by the garages. I had left the Phaeton out as it is dirty, and I am lazy. This time I had to tap the brake pedal to get the lights off.
In the past few days, I've noticed that when my headlights are on the white backlighting of the speedometer, tachometer, and other gauges in the instrument cluster fail to illuminate, however the red needles within each gauge do illuminate properly. Furthermore, the rheostat adjustment does successfully brighten and dim the red needles, but the faces of the gauges remain dark. I checked fuses 23 and 27 and both are fine.
View 24 RepliesPurchased a 2004 w12 several months ago , awesome cruiser.
The only fault it now has is the interior lights no longer come on when opening the drivers door and before putting the key in the ignition . I changed the comfort battery last month the old one being completely dead.
The dome interior lights will come on if the key IS in the ignition with door OPEN and go off when door is closed , the reading lights come on if you press the roof buttons but again only if ignition key in lock.
This is inconvenient as you cant find the ignition lock easily in the pitch dark. I searched the forum and one post was useful for resetting the interior light sequence ,but it didnt work when I tried it.
The procedure may have missed something out,as forum members know that the smallest step missed causes a problem.
Looking for the correct procedure to follow for the re sequencing of the interior lights. Trunk/boot light works as do puddle lights when door opened without key in ignition.
There are a few threads on a sticking parking brake resulting in the warning light remaining on. Mine has developed to a stage that it requires a toe under the foot pedal every time to silence the alarm.
I finally stuck my head in the footwell this morning to look at the mechanism, expecting to see a strained spring. However there was no spring in evidence and I saw that when the parking break is released, the cable remains with some free play above the contact point with the pedal: i.e. there is no tension on the cable when the pedal is released, there is about 15mm of "free cable", leaving the pedal almost "floppy".
Observations
1) The pedal has no spring to return to it's correct position. Based on self study guide SSP_277 this is not as it should be as on page 37 this discusses a spring mechanism in the pedal
2) I would image there should be tension in the cable even when released; I feel the rear mechanism requires inspection as there are springs there.
3) While the parking brake works fine, It has a lot more travel that it previously had. Thus something is worn, stuck, or the self adjusting mechanism is not working.
4) For the record, car has 110K miles, the temperature is above freezing, the behaviour is not weather dependent and the parking brake has been routinely used (2008 car).
5) My recollection from new is the parking brake was released with a significant spring action: quite abruptly.
The VSC dash light that's been consistently illuminating the past couple of weeks. The light never tripped prior to the car's battery dying. When the battery died, and the car wouldn't start, I disconnected the negative terminal, and charged the battery. Upon charging, the car started, but that is when the VSC light started illuminating.
I have an OBD II reader (craftsman) and saw that there was a failure to start code which was probably when I tried to start the car with the weak battery. There are other readiness codes (which I will have to get from my phone if you guys think they may be relevant). I cleared the failure to start code, but the light is still illuminated.
Specs: 2010 ES 350, ~68,000 miles
My airbag warning light came on yesterday in my new/used 2005 Prius Gen 2, and after a moment of thinking there was a a serious malfunction, I have deduced that it's because I had just put in an infant car seat behind the passenger seat. Evidently any pressure exerted against the passenger seat back causes the airbag warning light to illuminate.
View 19 RepliesMy cousin's camry has a cruise control problem. It's not turning as we press the switch on the steering wheel. There's no light illuminating and we looked around the car for the fuse, which we did not find. I tried calling the dealership and they said there's no fuse for the cruise control for this model. It is built into the ecu. I believe there should be a fuse for it.
View 1 RepliesThe MIL light on my Rodeo keeps illuminating with code P0401 "Low EGR flow". I had the EGR valve replaced and it ran fine for a while but came back on less than a week later. It was then found to have a leaking intake manifold gasket (which was still covered by warranty) but the code still came back on less than 24 hours later. This has been going on for about 2 weeks and no one around here seems to know why. What else would cause this code to be returned?
View 14 RepliesWill I have to remove the whole front bumper to change the front parking light bulbs ?
I noticed that one of them is missing and the other one burnt out.
One of my Parking lights, the orange ones in the corner of the headlights burnt out, I want to get rid of the other orange one and just put clear lights in there, i dont like the look of the orange. How to access those lights so i can change them out??
View 10 RepliesNeed to replace the front parking light? Can't figure out how to get to it or how it comes out.
View 7 RepliesMy front right (passenger) side parking light is broken and I can't figure out how to change the bulb. The left (driver) one is a simple twist and done, but the right one is just impossible.
View 6 RepliesHow to replace a front parking light bulb?
View 2 RepliesHow to replace the FRONT RIGHT PARKING LIGHT. That is how it says in the instrument panel cluster...
View 1 RepliesMy left driver side parking light is out.
Can you get to that light to replace it easily, without removing bumper, etc??
And if so, what kind of bulb does it take??
At first the passenger side front parking light would randomly not turn on until you gave the light assembly a hard tap. Now I am having the same problem with the driver side low beam light. I checked the harness connector and it clicks firmly into place. So, I am guessing there's something not grounded properly somewhere on the light assembly. I'm hoping that a light film of dielectric grease will work but I can't tell where to put it.
View 1 RepliesESP light came on the day before car went in for service. It appears that the ESP warning has come on because of worn front tyres - will know for certain tomorrow when new tyres fitted. Light was coming on when cornering..
View 6 RepliesNow that it's started getting cold here i don't fancy going through another winter without the parking heater.
View 1 RepliesAt first I was hearing an occasional click as I shifted the weight of the car from left to right, or right to left. Then it started making the clicking noise a little more, now it clicks during parking lot turns in either direction all the time.
I read that it could be a wheel bearing? but with the turning clicks i'm almost positive its a CV axle going bad.