Phaeton :: Won't Hold Idle / Flat Spots During Rev
Jan 28, 2015
I had the car in to replace the inner CV boot and repair a leaking trans flex seal. About 30 minutes after I left the shop, I lost all acceleration and the car basically crawls around. Halfway to work and almost late for meetings, I was afraid it was a failing fuel pump so I rigged both fuel pump relays closed and it seemed to get better... I pulled the relays while at work, re-inserted at the end of the day and headed home. About halfway home the acceleration issues came back (with the rigged relays), and I barely made it to my driveway. Pulled codes, and see these:
16732 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G163)
P0348 - 001 - Short to Plus - MIL ON
18711 - Leak in Air Intake System
P2279 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
16408 - Bank 2: Camshaft B (Exhaust)
P0024 - 008 - Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced) - MIL ON
I checked for vacuum leaks and can't seem to find anything tell-tale. I have seen the Camshaft Position Sensor before, but the car ran fine. Probably time to get around to replacing it, but what about the Leak in Air Intake System? Car really hates to idle. Also, MIL is pretty much always on for me due to an unhappy trans that disables ESP.
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So I have a 2008 escape 4wd.... I am getting a few flat spots on the inside passenger rear tire... So I figured it was the shocks so I unbolted both and cycled them and they both felt the same... There was dampening you can feel the oil going through the valves or whatever... I have felt completely bad shocks before and it was just a smooth motion when cycling the shocks... Can it still feel like there good but there not? The thing has 85k on it and I'm not sure if they have ever been replaced before..
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I have a 2003 MCV36R Camry SPortivo, Australian spec. Have owned it for 12 months. Have had power issues.
Replaced:
plugs
fuel filter
O2 sensors (engine)
MAF sensor
Throttle Position Sensor
Have checker EGR valve - all looks good
Have coded OBD II, no codes coming up
Current issues are:
Flat spots from 1000rpm to approx 3000 rpm (esp on gear change from 1st to second)
Once flat spot stop, it powers up enough to throw you back in your seat.
Also, rough running when sitting on constant speed, esp bad between 65-85 Km/h.
Have recently done a 800km trip. half way through, isolated the EGR valve. Running probs have improved greatly, but still lacks power.
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Have a 2013 Passat Tdi. It seems that sometimes when i accelerate the car doesn't move it has a flat spot as if the transmission is trying to catch a gear. I know this might sound minor to some folks. However on several occasions I've pulled out into oncoming traffic not expecting it to have a flat spot in the car not moving at all. What's up with this?
On the highway no problem and normal acceleration no problem but if you're going from a stop or pulling away from a intersection seems that happen more so than I would like.
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I have a 2001 F350 Dually 7.3 w/260K miles. Hard starting, it has to be plugged in all the time. Occasionally/most of the time, blows white smoke at 50 to 60 mph or at high rpm. Replaced TPS and now runs totally different on starting, still hard to start but better throttle response on starting. Once started, I have to pedal it to keep it running, which seems to have little response as it would as if it was a direct throttle linkage attached to a carburetor...follow me? After a while, it will idle by itself. However, it still has flat spots when out of idle and at high rpm. Has gotten to the point that I can't trust to drive it.
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Have been to dealer multiple times with concerns about speaker vibration from rear passenger door and rattle when going over rough spots from same general area. They end up saying they have not heard anything and I end up feeling like I am losing my mind. Does seem to be worse some times than others. Last weekend I opened the door and tapped the area around the base speaker. Lo and behold, sounds like there is something loose in there. Seems like it is moving around freely at times and may be caught somewhere and thus quiet at other times. What might be in there? Any easy way of getting at it on my own?
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I'm getting an erroneous intermittent "Flat Tyre" warning on one of the 4 corners. Usually only happens after about 10-15 minutes of highway driving. I haven't had the problem on city driving. Pressure is good on the "faulty" corner. After resetting the tire pressures and the TPMS relearning, everything is then fine again . . . only to return the next time I'm on the highway.
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o5 P with a bad brake light switch (going in next week) ran the left battery flat. Charged it back up and car runs fine but electric trunk is now non-op. Button on emblem will make a click and flash taillights but no action. Same with fob. Same with button on trunk and button in door. Valet switch is off. I tried the reset with manual trunk open, fob, button but no joy. I believe I read there's a trunk reset in VagCom. Latch and manual key work fine. Did I blow a fuse to the latch?
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My v8 2004 shows on and off L front flat tire caution sign. (may be once a week or so for last 1 month)it happens usually when i start driving in cold weather usually. when i turn my vehicle sign the pressure system is usually ok. i have checked the tire pressure and it is fine and it drives fine. What is wrong and do i need to take it to the delaer.
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The Phaeton is a 2003 6.0 W12 model. The car used to be a demo car and has currently around 80.000 km. It is not equipped with a keyless entry system. I recently put an Xcarlink device to connect my iPod. All the rest is a standard equipment (basically all available at that moment).
The problem with the car started when I could not open from the remote key. I tried to open the driver door, but the never used lock jammed. The only option was opening the trunk using the key. I had to lift the lid using some force against the dumpers, but it worked.
As the both batteries on the car were original 2003 (so went through the showroom period as well) I new that they cause the problem.
I bought two new batteries and replaced them. I proceeded according to the service manual so disconnected the right battery -, right +, left -, left +. I am pretty convinced that I did not blow the battery isolator. The left battery applied is 95Ah in place of 92 before. It has the max current of 800 A in place of 850 A. The right battery is exactly the same specification as before. After testing the old batteries the left one showed current of 2.8V so it was definitely broken. The right one seemed to be OK (12.58V)
After replacing the batteries I could open the car and all the entertainment systems and electronics inside would work except for:
1) The suspension lifting and tire pressure warning lights are on.
2) I cannot start the engine - it does not crank at all even using the emergency mode - two times start and back to accessories mode
3) The trunk lid does not close automatically.
I am getting the car towed to the local VW dealer tomorrow, but I am afraid they will see the Phaeton for the first time in their lives (small Dutch dealer nearby Utrecht), so I am a bit afraid of the car.
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I have one TPMS sensor that incorrectly tells me I have a flat when I do not. I presume the sensor is faulty because the wheel was moved to the rear as part of a recent service and the problem moved with the wheel.
What I find peculiar is that the flat tire warning comes at virtually the same time when I drive, about ten or so minutes into the journey, and leaves about five minutes later, usually not to return. Indeed, when I occasionally drive the car to work, I know when the signal will come on, within about .25 mile.
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Car won't hold an idle unless I'm on the gas, and even then it only goes to 500 rpm and the second I let off the gas it dies. It also will not go any past 500.
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I have a mystery on my hands and am at a complete loss. I have a 1969 Volkswagen Beetle that will not hold an idle. It will start up just fine and as long as you have your foot on the gas, it will stay alive. As soon as you let off the car sputters and dies. Another symptom is that the is a miss in the engine, not sure if the two are related or need to time it and then check on the idle. Here is what I have done in an attempt to fix the issue:
I have been able to adjust the idle to get it to stay alive for about 30 seconds longer, but no matter ho much I adjust it still struggles and dies. Idles very rough no matter what.
Cleaned the carb (not a rebuild or anything, but just gave it a real good spray of cleaner)
Replaced the condenser and points (adjusted the points properly etc.)
Replaced and gapped the spark plugs
Replaced the idle cutoff solenoid
Adjusted the automatic choke
Cleaned the carb (not a rebuild or anything, but just gave it a real good spray of cleaner)
Some have suggested a vacuum leak, and i know i have to put some sort of solution on the vacuum connections, but since I am relatively new to the world of VW beetles I am not quite sure where those are and what to put on and what to do if there is a leak.
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Tried to start it, it just cranks for a long time, it can't even hold an idle. After 5 minutes of cranking and trying to get it running, it starts up just fine like there isn't even a problem. It just started to happen today. I have a 2004 v6 2.6 glx, completely stock.
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2003 Ford Escape V6 ... So . . . my car runs fine almost all the time and I love it. But every couple of weeks when I start her up she won't hold a steady idle. Unless I hold my foot on the accelerator pedal she dies right out. I have had to limp home as she dies at each stop light. I have tried disconnecting the battery to reset the computer but it never seems to work. On the drive home, there will be episodes of misfiring after which the computer will reset itself. (The dash instruments go to zero and then back into normal range while I am driving down the road!) After a couple of resets, the car drives fine the rest of the way and continues fine for a couple of weeks (except for some misfiring at idle).
And at cruising speed there is a chatter behind the dash which sounds like its from the computer--very intermittent and only at around 45-60 mph--it only lasts a few seconds and goes away when I changed speed. The car is great in every other way after 104,000 miles. In the past 12 months, I have changed the thermostat, the plugs, the PCV, the fuel filter, and the air filter. A year ago both Brake Sensor rings cracked so I replaced both CV shafts. The crankshaft position sensor code came on twice and I replaced it twice. I do all my own work but I am stuck in a rut right now.
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I have a 4160 on a 351 Ford. I confess, it's a boat!
I had a major flat spot when accelerating off idle. I found it wasn't pumping on the accelerator circuit.
I replaced the accelerator diaphragm and cleaned the squirts and the passages. It squirts great now, but if I floor it, it completely bogs. If I baby it really carefully, once the engine gets over about 1800 rpms, it acts fine.
I thought it over, checked the travel on the arm that presses the diaphragm, and figured my pump cam was worn. It "seemed" like the duration of the squirt was not long enough.
I got a new cam kit. The orange cam on my carb was not a bit worn compared to the cam in the kit. Not encouraging. I put the only other cam in the kit that I thought might work. It was blue, and it gave more lift but no greater duration. It did not make any difference that I can tell. Is there a transition circuit I might have problem with? I don't know enough to go any further.
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I have a 2008 toyora prius with 75423mi on it, was purchased with 70000mi two or three months ago. I have had no problems with this vehicle until recently. Being a prius newbie, I decided to ask here. When sitting parked on a slight slope earlier with the car running, radio running, and phone plugged in for an extended amount of time, I received an error on my display stating smething along the lines of "there is an abnormality with the p transmission mechanism, please part the car on a flat surface and engage the parking break completely" paired with a red triangle on the dash. I immediately moved the car to flat ground and engaged the parking break. The car turns one, shifts fine, and acts just as normal as prior. Is there anything I should be worried about? The car is still under toyota warrenty and is due an oil change now. Any clue what the cause of this was and if it will be reoccuring?
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My V8 has been pretty much flawless for the last 25,000 miles that I have owned it. Currently has 67k miles.
One thing I've always noticed is a slight vibration at idle. Nothing too harsh, but certainly can feel it.
Am I spoiled by the Lexus, which sometimes I can't even tell if the engine is on?
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What "normal" rpm should be for V8 idling? In my Phaeton I have 620-650rpm in Park position and when I press brake pedal and shift to Drive (or stop at the traffic light) rpm's goes down to ~520rpm. Moreover it goes down to ~500rpm when I turn on defrost of rear glass.
500-550rpm make an annoying vibrations of my car. I've observed it from 2 months. Could winter make this "phenomena" or it may be linked with replacement of generator on November? What is the normal rpm "level" at idle for Phaeton V8?
My mechanic told me there is no possibility to raise up rpm at idle in Phaeton. I asked him to do 750/650rpm (park/drive) but he says it is no possible. Rpm are regulated and controlled by ECU and no possibility to tune it. Is he right?
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I have an annoying vibration regardless whether I am driving or in idle. Slight difference if in Drive or N mode.
Dealer balanced tires(!) and said all is OK... Which area to look at?
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I have a 2013 white Jetta, about 1 1/2yr ago i started noticing orange spots all over the car, took it to volkswagen and they said it was from brake dust, which made no sense as brake dust is gray or black, not orange. I though it would be rust but it also has it on plastic bumper. What it is.
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