Phaeton :: Window Regulator Noise (Loud Thunk) At Top Of Travel
Dec 30, 2015
I just picked the car up at the dealer, after having had the new window regulator installed.
They were just closing service and I didn't think to test the window before I left the lot, but on the way home I put the window down... nice and smooth and quiet.
Then I put it up and there was a loud thunk at the top of the travel. I tried to capture it in the attached video but it isn't nearly as "bass-y" as it is in person. Crappy mic on the phone I guess.
My other three windows have a very soft sound as they reach the top of the travel, nothing like this thunk. What it might indicate?
Video here: [URL] ....
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I was away from the Phaeton for 2 weeks and managed to let the battery run down to totally dead (left Radar detector on). Started her up on the secondary battery and everything seemed fine, but, a few days later, I had occasion to put down the drivers window - no joy. Tried the passengers window - again no joy. The rear windows were fine. When I try to operate the window I hear a short sound like the window is starting to open, but nothing happens and the glass does not move. Because it is so unlikely that both front windows would fail simultaneously, I suspect a controller may need to be reset. Is there any way to trouble shoot this without a VAG COM?
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I've got my 2013 sonata and have noticed over the past couple weeks that after the car has sat for a while and I shift out of park that it makes a thunk/shifting sound that's coming from right below the car. I think it's coming from the gear shaft but I'm not a car expert so I can't be sure, it's more prevalent when I shift into reverse. What it could be? The car is still completely under warranty so I'm fine with making it the dealer's problem.
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Can the power window regulator motor on a 96 Explorer be repaired? I can hear the motor make a thump noise but it is bound. I have seen videos on earlier model Fords where the motor can be taken apart and the plastic spheres can be replaced but I didn't know if that can be done on a 96 model.
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Had window on drivers side all the way down. Went to push button to raise. Window gets gets half way up and I hear a loud snap! I continue to push button and raised window all the way up. Now I hear wind and whistle sound. Does not seem to be as tight? Afraid to lower window as it may not raise again... Does this sound like the typical window regulator failure? My warranty coverage "excludes " window regulators, go figure. Their brochure says window motors and regulators covered. The actual signed contract excludes regulators? 2004 V8......
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Where I could get a front driver side window regulator I am having a problem finding one and tired of the window going up and down slow due to the window ending up on the wrong side of the rubber.
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This procedure explains how to remove the driver side, rear door panel, test the power window motor and switch and replace the power window regulator assembly.
Tools Required: #2 Philips screwdriver, small slot screwdriver, 10mm socket wrench, jumper cables, set of test leads with alligator clips, DC voltmeter.
Cost: In the end, I did not end up buying a new window regulator assembly, but I think a "Dorman 741-356 Rear Driver Side Replacement Power Window Regulator with Motor for Toyota Camry" would work.
1. Locate the anchor (red arrow). Push the center in and then pry the anchor out with a slot screwdriver.
2. Remove ashtray, pry and remove the rubber liner and remove the #2 Phillips screw.
3. While pulling the door handle, carefully pry the plastic trim piece away from the door handle bezel and remove the #2 Phillips screw.
4. Pushing the door trim piece forward, pry the rear upward. Note that there is a plastic tab (red arrow) at the front of this trim piece, so it is necessary to lift it from the back to avoid breaking it.
5. Squeeze the electrical connector to remove it from the socket and then set the trim piece/switch assembly aside.
6. Remove #2 Phillips screw (red arrow).
7. Remove two #2 Philips screws (circled in red) at the bottom of the door.
8. Grasp the bottom of the door panel with your fingertips and gently, but firmly pull outward to disengage the 9 snaps on the door.
9. Lift the door panel upward to unhook it from the door. Carefully set the door panel on the ground.
10.Pull the white plastic cable guide out of the sheet metal holder and rotate the cable housing to disengage the cable from the mechanism. Pull the green plastic cable guide out of the sheet metal holder and rotate the cable housing to disengage the cable from the mechanism. Gently set the door panel aside. %
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My driver' side window had been making a thunk sound when first lowered from the full closed position for the last 6 months. I opened the door and couldn't see anything wrong. Now it won't go down at all, although I can hear it seem to try when I push the button. The motor is likely shot or some sort of other problem? It is a 20 yr old car and starting to drink oil, so I want to try to fix if possible cheaply.
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2006 LS V8: Looks like the driver's side window regulator broke this morning. On the way up, it made a couple of "crackling" noises and stopped. Window goes down but not up. I hear a slight hum of the motor when pushing the up button.
Looking at replacement parts, some offer with motor and some without. There is a youtube video showing the procedure for a 2000 LS Passenger Side. I assume the procedure for mine is similar.
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It looks like I am going to have to replace my front driver's side power window regulator soon - it is making a bad sound when I power the window down and also the window glass seems to be loose and clunking when I close the door with the window partially or all the way down. These may be two separate issues. I think the motor itself is fine.
In looking at replacement window regulators I see two options. The lower cost option ($50-70) is to just by the regulator cable/pulley/gear assembly.
Like this: [URL]
But I also see options to buy that assembly pre-installed on the metal door plate that it attaches to: [URL]
So, my question is, once I have the door apart and the glass out, is it relatively easy to install a new cable/pulley/gear regulator assembly, or would I be better off buying a pre-installed regulator on a new metal plate?
I know how to take the door apart as I have done this before to change out the door lock/latch module.
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Its been a while as my phaeton was running fine until now. My A/C usually works fine but after few mins it blows warm air. if I turn off the car and start back in 2 mins then the A/C blows cold air again. I did the scan and it showed me "00445 - Loss of Refrigerant" so I took it the dealer for a refill. Technician checked the refrigerant pressure and it was full. I verified fuse 66 is fine. It turns out that the compressor shutdown is due to faulty regulator Valve N280. Some days the cold air is fine with out any issues but some days the problem is intermittent. so I believe I don't need to change the compressor or refill the gas. VW sells the complete compressor which includes the regulator valve. Where can I buy the regulator valve N280 separately for the correct compressor model and what is the type of compressor model in our phaeton ?
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Sometimes when i reverse and come to a full stop i sometimes hear a loud thunk..coming somewhere close to the right rear hard to tell since I am in the car when it happens, I'm due for my 10k soon..
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My front pass window started to make an awful noise as I raised it so I got as far as removing the door cover but is stuck from removing the aluminum panel that covers the window. Everything is loose including the locking mech but I still cannot remove the panel. I tried with the window up and down. Is there a secret fastener somewhere?
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2007 Santa Fe 2.7 engine
My wife was driving along and she said she heard a loud 'thunk' and then she couldn't accelerate and the engine light came on. I don't know if she had to restart it or what but she finished out her day and made it home ok. The engine light went off. When she got home I put the scanner on it. I have a Actron 9580A. It came up with 3 codes.
P2106
P1295
P161b
From what I've read on here and what the codes tell me I guess I need a throttle position sensor and that a computer update is needed. Is the ECM update something that can be done without taking it in? If I do need someone to update it is the dealer the best place? Can I install the TPS then drive there? Or does it have to be done at the same time? I was just thinking I might save a few bucks doing it myself.
Prior to this the Santa Fe had no codes. I do need to replace the battery which tested bad last month. I think the battery will need to be replaced before doing the update.
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The differential inside the trans. of my 91 Corolla 1.6L with 175K grenaded as I was cruising down the highway. Just heard a loud "thunk" and the front wheels locked up. The stock trans is a three speed A131L hooked up to the AE92. The engine still has a lot of life left in it so I will be putting a new transmission in it. This 6th generation Corolla was availabe with a four speed trans. Can I replace it with a four speed trans? I can get the shifter out of a recycling yard but don't know if anything else needs changed-out.
I'd like to get a re-manufactured trans as who knows how the previous owner took care of their transmission if I pulled one out of the bone yard. I'd hate to put in a trans only to have to re-do the job three months later. Are there any reputable transmission re-builders you would recommend? I'm in the Tampa area and am willing to go anywhere in the state for a known good trans.
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I was putting my rear driver window up yesterday, and I hear a crunching noise.....it struggled, but I was able to get it back up. What should I do? I'm thinking it's the regulator, or a clip came off of the window, etc.
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Problem I've been having with my front passenger side window. When the window is fully up, there is some very noticeable wind noise at speed which then goes when the window is moved down a fraction. Whether this a problem that's easily solved or whether it's going to require lots of fiddly work by the service technicians?
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As previously reported, I'm happy overall with my new 04, but one of the squawks I want to have looked at is the passenger window. The window stops it's upward travel about 1/16 of an inch from the top. If left there, I get a significant wind whistle. I can manually move it the last little bit, which I did (and now forbid anyone using that window until it is looked at). My major concerns are a "clattering" noise coming from the inside of the door when the window goes up or down. I'm wondering if this sound is a symptom of the controller going bad, or if I'm missing some sort of retraining for the window.
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I just broke my 2000 F350 7.3L 4X4. I never had any shift problems in the 3+ years I've had this truck. 3 days ago, I stood on it to enter the freeway, it dropped into passing gear, then a loud THUNK, a shudder, and no gears whatsoever. I coasted to a stop, checked to make sure the transfer case hadn't jumped to neutral, ran the tranny through all gears, and nothing, truck wouldn't move.
I took the tranny pan off this morning and its clean, just a little fuzzy on the magnet but nothing more than normal for 3 years and 200k miles without service. At this point, I'm thinking its the torque converter let go and won't pump fluid. Tranny Shops only want to sell you the whole assembly, not fix the problem.
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My 05 phaeton has a lot of wind noise coming from it especially over 60 miles per hour. The window is fully up the door is closed and even in the car wash no water gets in. The seal seems tight.
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The Truck: 2011, 250, 4x4, Super Cab, 6' box, 6.2 with 6R140, currently 40K miles. It did have an 8' plow on it. An 80 year old gent plowed his personal 200' driveway with it for 2 winters before I bought it. You can tell the truck was taken care of, or I wouldn't have purchased it. I have all the service records. He had his local dealer do all of it. Plow and all the controls were removed prior to my purchase.
Scenario: Trucks cold (summer ambient). Driveway has a grade down to road. Doesn't matter if I am nosed or backed in. Start up, back/pull out of driveway on to flat road, and very slowly take off. The 1-2 shift produces a lose thunk sound and sensation, very faint not loud. Almost Like a lose motor mount. Only will do it once, only on the first start and 1-2 upshift. Ive tried to reproduce it after the first occurrence, no luck. If you gas it under the same circumstances it wont do it.
It doesn't necessarily feel like an internal trans problem. More of a "somethings just lose enough to shift or move" problem. Sounds like somethings hitting the frame, core support, cab floor on this slow 1-2 up-shift. Its upfront passenger side. I've spent several hours under it looking for lose items witness rub marks etc...to no avail
Again it only does it after it sits or upon the first start in the AM or when leaving work PM. Not when its warm.
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