Just noticed something strange. Haven't opened the boot for a few days and We have had some really heavy rain but today, when I did open the boot water, poured out between the carpet on the inside of the boot and the metal. Has water in the actual boot or is there some drain holes I need to check.
View 7 RepliesI guess this would be covered by either power train warranty or certified warranty? I also have axle inner boot leakage. I am going in tomorrow for DSG and fuel filter, going to have them look at these issues...should be fun ... oh yeah and head gasket might show signs of leakage......
Detailed pics in link..... [URL] .....
I just went to grab some things out of the trunk of my MK7 GTI when I put my hand down I felt moisture so I picked up the mat and I saw about 3 inches of water surrounding my spare donut.
View 2 RepliesFor a couple of weeks now, my boot keeps re-opening when I close it while the car is locked.
My usual workaround is to unlock the car, close the boot and only then, lock the car. However, yesterday evening, this did not work, i.e. I closed the boot then locked the car, but as the car locked, the boot decided to open on its own...
Tried it several times, and ended up leaving the car open (we were invited for dinner at friends of ours, so leaving the car unlocked was not problematic) as I preferred this to leaving the boot open...
Having intermittent power boot problem .. and now i cant get the boot open at all!!!! nothing happens with internal switch, key fob, external switch and i cant even open it manually with the key..
View 3 RepliesJust picked up my car from the VW Centre, I had the Wiring Harness for Trunk Lid replaced. Now the lights within the the boot and the light in the Trunk Close button are not working.
Could this be a fuse? if so which one, left my manual in UK and I am abroad at the moment. Or could this mean a mistake has been made whilst installing the new wiring?
Twice this past fortnight I've come down in the morning to find my boot open while the car is on the drive, and as I normally store around 600 worth of golf kit in there this obviously isn't ideal !
Either someone else's transmissions are opening it or, more likely, I'm accidently pushing the button as I fumble around trying to get two small kids and associated baggage through the front door.
Is there any way of disabling the key fob boot release without disabling the switch function of the VW sign on the boot ? I'm considering opening up the remote and removing the switch unless can think of a better solution ?
I am a new Phaeton owner, 2004 v10 with the electric boot. I recently had the batteries run flat after leaving a charger in the 12v socket not realising it remained powered. After trickle charging the batteries for 3 days I cant get the boot to operate electrically.
I have scanned with VAG-COM and don't have any errors on the convenience module. The switch on the boot is not illuminated. If I press and hold the boot button on the keyfob the hazards flash but nothing happens. I have followed the reset procedure with no difference. Interestingly on the dash the car does not show the boot as open when it is up. It appears to be receiving no power but I can probe and have tried to reset the parameters of location 22 and 23 on the convenience controller and wouldn't expect access if there was no power. The boot mechanism was working perfectly before the battery ran flat.
During swap over of winter to summer tires I noticed some holes in the drivers side (left) rear suspension boot (cover). I assume that it is the result of rubbing against the body during suspension compression.
Considering either outright replacement of the boot or a band aid (patch) solution, along with some relieving of the suspected contact area on the body.
Suspension is functioning well otherwise. Car has 170K kilometres.
My Phaeton is approaching its 10th day at VW for a number of issues. Only the week before it was serviced and I was told everything was fine. At the service I asked them to look at the power boot and was told it was reset and working....
I took the car back as there was still a noise from the rear side under the car, sometimes when park was engaged the car did not sense it unless you fiddled with the lever whilst in park, the clock was slow and finally the boot would not open properly.
Specifically the boot issue was, When using either the button on the remote or the drivers boot release the boot tried to open around an inch and then immediately shut again. The only way to open it was to press open and then gently force it open. After fiddling for a while I realised that pressing the unlock then pressing the VW logo twice opened it sometimes! But not always.
Anyway VW cannot work out the problem and apparently their technical support has advised them to change the struts! I cant see how this is the issue .
Phaeton w12 ... I put new inner and outter tie rods on and new dust boots (the accordion style ones).
I am getting popping noises when I turn from the boot. It's been going on for a couple months now. I tried swapping left to right, greasing them etc nothing works ...
I'd noticed an oil leak drivers side and upon investigation it appears the rack has developed a leak. I lifted the car on the vehicle lift and when I did noticed oil pouring out of the boot surrounding the steering linkage coming from the steering rack. With the tires dropped the full amount this created a tilt of said boot allowing the oil that had filled the boot to drain out. My conclusion is the rack has developed a leak with the boot being full of oil.
I did a "steering rack" search but nothing of value appeared.
I opened the boot via the door panel button. Loaded suitcases in and pressed button down on the boot lid.
The two hooks ( plastic and metal one ) directly came out and the boot lid did not move at all.
Tried a reset the whole procedure found on this excellent forum. but no result. I also tried to put my key in the boot lock and it doesnt want to lock or unlock.
I have had my Camry for 9 months and unfortunately didnt know that water was going inside my trunk every time it rained, the car was washed, or snow melted! I took it to the dealer to have it looked at only to find out the trunk body seal needed to be replaced. I have had cars over 10 years and water in the trunk was never an issue.
This is my first Camry and I must admit I am not satisfied with the purchase. I hope my experience gets better.
Having problems with Saturn Outlook, sunroof leaking?
View 30 RepliesThe water was not actually getting into the HVAC itself, but getting past the air inlet assembly from under the leaf screen directly into the firewall area. I will try a gasket maker that comes in rolls that I can press into place. there is no room for tools there.
Everywhere around the heater and AC module is dry. The foam on the inside firewall immediately under the air inlet assembly is soaked, yet the inside of the assembly is bone dry. I removed the entire to diagnose the leak. A light rain was enough to fill the back foot well with an inch of water.
Leaking A/C water onto the passenger floor problem. If you’ve gone on a long trip and ended up with a pool of water on your passenger floor, you know what I’m talking about. It seems to be a common problem, especially if you live somewhere hot and have to keep your A/C on the coldest and strongest setting nonstop like I do. This is a very simple job and takes about 20-30 minutes.
All you need is: duct tape, a wire hanger, a few towels, and a wet/dry shop vac. (If you don’t own a shop vac, borrow one or rent one if you must, but it is a good investment if you don’t own one already).
Step 1: Remove the plastic cover under the dashboard. This piece just pops off, there are no screws, so give it a good tug down and outward and it should come off easily.
Step 2: Once you have that piece out of the way, reach up to the left corner of the carpet and pull it back, you don’t have to pull it very far to see the A/C drain tube.
Step 3: Pull the tube out from the hole on the firewall, and look at the end. If there’s water dripping your clog probably isn’t that bad. Take the wire hanger, bend it straight, and stick it as far up the tube as you can, wiggling it around and pulling it out to wipe off any gunk on the wire. Try to reach the metal pipe that the other end of the rubber tube is connected to if you can, but do NOT pull the rubber hose off the pipe, it will be hard to get back on. Also, be sure to have your towels ready because you may have up to a liter of water pour out the end when you unclog it.
Step 4: Turn your A/C on (make sure the car is fully on) and wait a minute. Look at the end of the drain tube. If it is dripping water quickly, and you don’t see much water coming from anywhere else under the dash, then you are done. I would suggest to still continue with the next steps just in case, but it’s up to you. If, like mine, the tube is fairly dry and you still see water dripping from further towards the inside of the dash, then your clog is further up the pipe and not in the tube itself. In this case you’ll need the shop vac.
This morning I went to put some stuff in my hatch to go to a job and looked at the paper towel role I keep wedged in the small little cubby in the front corner and lifted it up and it was SOAKING wet! I literally could squeeze the paper towel and water would come out of it (like you submerged a paper towel in water and immediately squeezed it out). Its rained about 1.5 inches in the past few days and my car had been sitting while it was raining but had been driven between the two storms. I WILL be contacting the dealer very soon.
The funny thing is my Genesis has a recall for the water Leakage through the tail light housing.
I have a concern has any experienced seeking water where the aux battery goes in the hatch compartment.? As well as where the emergency tire goes? I was taking the battery out this weekend to take it home and charge it, and I saw the flood of yellow water, how does this water get in the car?
Another question/concern when reconnecting the battery in reverse the positive terminal connects first and then the negative but I was experiencing some sparks pointing my way, I was wearing my plastic/gummy gloves but is this normal should I worry?
And what would happen if I forgot to reconnect the little black pump (the little hose that connects to the battery)?
I took the car to the local VW workshop (in Spain) for a replacement of the ring, and they found the reason for the leak. There is a vibration on back of the gearbox which over time destroys the ring and gear oil starts to leak. Not much, but just a little - enough for a small wet spot on the garage floor.
No other visual broken items are found and the gearbox apparantly works fine. Except, when starting from stand still, acceleration, and making a turn, the gear box makes some strange noices and it is as the car makes a sharp jump forward.
The local VW dealer recommended a repair at [URL] -new-in-madrid at the cost of 4500 euros, all included with one year guarantee. They calculated 20 hours for taking the gearbox in and out of the car (included in the price).A new gearbox is 7000 euro plus the 20 hours of mechanical work so the repair sounds like a better option.
The Automatic said that if you have a 4x4 and change tires unevenly (that is just shift two of the tires at a time) the gearbox may be exposed for tensions that may make this particular problem happen.
I am getting water at the very front of the trunk, nearest the passenger compartment. Might be the drains in that vicinity that might be plugged causing an overflow there .Rest of the trunk is dry. The only wet area is immediately underneath the pull-out "shade" thing that has to be in place for the top to operate. Some indication that the water is coming from above that, since it is wet also.
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