Phaeton :: Water Leak In Cabin Foot Well While Blowing Air Down There?


Oct 27, 2009

I went in for an oil change and told them to visually inspect the car for a water leak. There was another phaeton in the shop with a water problem that was costing the customer thousands so I thought they might be able to see a red flag. I get the car back and they told me they blew air through the sunroof vents.

I've had the passenger foot well carpet up to monitor the floor to see if water has been leaking since I sealed around a couple batter terminal points that went through the firewall, and it had been dry.
But I had a feeling blowing that air through the vents might have dislodged the hose from the connector, so I put some water through the sunroof vent, and it totally started pouring into the footwell. It had NEVER done that when pouring water through the sunroof vent when I was diagnosing it before.

I feel like the dealer made the problem worse by blowing air down there, and now the dash is probably going to have to come out, and i'm assuming they will make me pay for it.

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I am still getting the CEL codes for the Secondary Intake Air Pump after I noticed the water in the passenger foot area. I clear the CEL but it comes back on again after a few days. I am now trying to trouble shoot the issue. When I start the engine cold I do NOT hear the blower come on the first minute the engine is on. That tells me the Secondary air intake pump is not turning on. Next I must check the relay or fuse tied to the pump. Which relay or fuse number it is and where it is located exactly?

If the fuse/relay is not the issue, how difficult it will be to change this pump and where it is located exactly?

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For the past couple of days i've had condensation on the windshields during cold mornings and nights and thought something was up. I looked around and found the carpet on the driver's side of my car is damp and there was a puddle of water directly underneath the seat. I've read it might be a clogged AC drain or something like that. Some solutions seem to be either blowing the AC drain underneath the car with compressed air to get rid of a clog, or finding the tube inside the car and properly reconnecting it incase it got dislodged or kinked somehow. Or does this sound like a different problem? Again only the driver's side carpet seems to be wet.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - Cabin Water Leak - Small Puddle In Driver Side Rear Floor Corner

My 1999 F150 Supercab has developed a water leak which I would like to ask your opinions on. Parked on a 20 degree incline during a pouring rain yesterday, I came out to find a small puddle in the driver's side rear floor corner and about an ounce of water pooled in a little lip at the bottom of the rear window in the right corner of the window! Haven't started tearing anything apart yet (and might not be able to myself), but it seems that it is possibly the rear window seal as the window and the outside body area appear to be in good shape otherwise (no visible rust, no seal obviously dislocated, etc).

Also, don't know if it's related, the other day I jacked up the truck with a floor jack under the front crossmember but a bit off center which caused the truck to twist a bit before both wheels came off the ground. While doing this, I heard and felt a loud bang like something broke in the frame! Couldn't see anything out of place and something similar has happened before where a lug of the jack cup had shifted slightly while jacking the vehicle and it caused a loud bang to be heard, but this time it didn't quite feel like it was at the jack but further back.

Could something have "broken" in the truck that I can't quite see and thus this leak has occurred which wasn't there previously or could it just be coincidence that the bang and leak occurred so close in time to each other. I know it's hard to diagnose something like this without seeing the vehicle or really know what happened but I just had to put it out there as part of the events that occurred within the timeline for this leak.

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I have a 2005, V8, Phaeton with 181,000 miles. Also, my car overheated, got the coolant too hot warning, 270 on gauge, let it sit 5 minutes, no problem afterwards. Should the thermostat have been changed also?

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Pulled out the carpet around clutch and surrounding foot area to see what is going on and found out 2 heater core pipes are running hot and dissipating a quite bit of heat when the blower is in off and cabin temp controller is in cold position. Is this normal, I believe when the temp controller is in cold position there should not even be hot coolant running to heater core from the engine? Could heater tap or temp control valve that stops engine hot coolant running to cabin/heater core be faulty? If so where are they located?

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Toyota :: Rain Water In Passenger Side Foot Space

I have a Toyota Aygo which leaks water into the passenger side foot space, so that when it rains, about 2 inches of water collects where the passengers feet would be.

It's been in to the dealer three times to fix, they replace the door seals but it seems to me that the rain isn't coming in via the door or window, but up through the floor somehow, ie seems to come up through the carpet suggesting it's coming in from somewhere else!

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There is water sound under dash. I read about clogged drain so I tried sticking up a thin rod from drain line and gets stopped after some length. Should I force it up (push, hit harder) or will that break something? Is there a angle bend?

I did not get a water leak on carpet yet but the sound is getting more so more water collecting? What should I do next?

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Need to then fix the exhaust that is blowing, clean it up and I'll have a solid, reliable car ready for the winter.

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When I park, the climate system adjusts to send air down to the foot wells. The climate system keeps the air running long enough to drain the left side battery. I replaced both batteries two days ago. This morning my, brand new, left battery was dead again. The first two weeks I owned the car I never noticed the climate staying on, only the last 6 days.

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My girlfriend has a 2009 Elantra and recently she has been experiencing an issue where somehow water is leaking into the cabin. What usually seems to happen is after a strong rain storm she will enter the vehicle and will notice water on the rubber floor mats on both the Drivers and Passengers sides. No one has entered or exited the vehicle during these storms and the windows are all closed so there should be now way for water to enter the vehicle. Every time this happens it seems like there is an excessive amount of condensation at the top of the windshield, but like I said the vehicle has been closed so that much moisture shouldn't enter the vehicle.

We have taken it to the dealership and they say they have performed a water test and can't find anything, however, the last time we took it in and they couldn't find anything the car sat for most of the day and when we came to pick it up there was water on the floor mats which we then showed to the Service Rep and he couldn't explain how it got there.

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Looking at a V10 that I thought I might buy.... but it has an odd noise from the steering column. Noise is present when the engine is running - and is there whilst driving. However if, when stationary, you hold either side of the wheel and just move it fractionally, the noise goes away completely.

The noise sounds a bit like gas escaping from a pipe, or more accurately reminds me of the noise of gas being throttled like in a regrigeration circuit. Although I don't think it's anything to do with the air con. The car has the electrically adjustable column... but playing with this has now effect either.

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Accessing the evaporator drain / Liquid "sloshing" sound in cabin. finally figured out how to do this, at least for the passenger side. Look at the picture of michael's trick for reinstallation of J523. Right next to the cable that gets pulled as a trick, you can see the rubber drain hose. The soft rubber hose connects to the plastic drain of the main HVAC assembly right there. Just pull it off and the backwater can flow right out into a bucket. Then you can unclog, make sure the soft rubber hose is not getting pinched, etc.

Arrow points at passenger side evaporator drain...

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Chrysler Town and Country. The engine warms up just fine regardless of my speed or throttle position, but the cabin heater has started blowing cold air when I back off or sit at idle. It may be relevant that we hear a lot of gurgling in the dash soon after starting the engine.

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It seems to rain every afternoon here lately, but by the time I get out to my car it's still quite hot. So I roll the windows down a little, and start to pull out of my parking space. However, as soon as the car moves, rain water just rolls right off the roof and comes pouring inside. There is a little lip between the roof and the top of the door line but that doesn't seem to be stopping it...does it have anything to do with the paint being new and still slippery? I've waxed my old mkIII GTI numerous times and never had an issue like this though. It's quite annoying having the entire door card and my left arm soaked every time it rains and I 'forget' not to put the windows down right away

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Phaeton :: Exhaust Smoke Smell In Cabin

From time to time, i get some exhaust smoke smell in the car, when driving slow or standing in a queue.

90% of the time everything it's perfect, but at a sudden moment, the rpm is rising with 50 or so, the instant consumption rises from let's say 1.4l/h to 1.8-2.0l/h when in gear and standing, i get a small vibration and then the exhaust smell appears.

If i'm closing the recirculation, then no more smell.

After 15-20 min, everything get back as it use to be, 1.4l/h consumption, no vibrations no smells no nothing.

This i think happens when the dpf is cleaning and i cought with vcds of a friend when it happened and the exhaust temp was 350 celsius or something. Usually is 200 degrees celsius, so it is a dpf regeneration. Also the car is running smoother after this.

Still..the smoke smell... it's annoying and quite strong. There is no sign of smoke from the exhaust pipes, flexible pipe or whatever. There is no sign at all anywhere.

I have a small theory but i don't know from where to start. Usually the catalyst temp is 200 degrees. When it's 350, it expanding more, or at least the cracks are expanding and smoke+smell is from there...but there is no sign anywhere.

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How do you avoid air (fresh??) thru closed vents? I switched the a/c off and cold air was coming in thru the closed vents. Then I turned the fan on, the vents open and I put it in Economy with the air coming from the upper panel (windshield), then shut off the fan and the vents closed. But cold air was still coming by the "closed" vents. How do you avoid that?

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