Phaeton :: Warbling Whining Noise From Under The Car Only Noticeable Under Load Uphill In 5th
Apr 19, 2011
My 08 3.0 tdi is back in the dealer again, 8 months of ownership and it's been off the road 8 weeks in total now. Started with a warbling whining noise from under the car, that is only noticeable under load up hill in 5th, it worse the steeper the hill and more weight in the car, can also be made to do it on the flat whilst towing my boat.
Dealer initially diagnosed a failed bearing in the gearbox and it was replaced under warranty at 59500mls - lucky escape for me. Unfortunately this did not cure the problem and after months of further inspections and enquries the diff was also replaced - to no affect! Much hand wringing unsued from the embarrassed and fed up dealership and they decide to replace the propshaft - still to no affect
I now have a new problem with the air conditioning - the condenser has corroded through under the paint next to one of the mounting lugs, not what you expect on a vehicle of this quality - this is going to be a substantial bill for something that shouldn't have failed on a vehicle that not even reached it's 3rd birthday!
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My wife has an 09 accent equipped with the 1.6 and 5spd manual. When it gets cold (close to freezing and under) fourth gear starts to make a whining/growling noise that gets louder with more load. Once it is warm it completely goes away. What is going on here?
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Noise in the Touareg's drive/brake system during cold weather.Someone even recorded the noise.One person stated that VW replaced his drive shaft and hanger bearing assembly.I was wondering how that worked out?Did it solve the problem? They used "electronic ears" to diagnose my problem and it certainly indicated the hanger bearing. I had assembly replaced in my '05 V6 and the noise returned within weeks! And now the noise is present in warmer temperatures...up to 43 degrees. Is it possible I got another bad one?
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I have a 2003 F250 SD with 130K miles. I primarily use it to pull a race car, about 5000 lbs is all. It has all the upgrades, from studs to EGR delete. Ford replaced the automatic transmission in 2005. I'm looking at a truck newer than 2011, but thinking either a flex fuel 250 or diesel. I want it loaded and 4WD, but they seem expensive.
Anyway, I have bad front wheel bearings. I know this because of the low rumble noise and how it acts when I rock the steering. How tough are they?? I build my entire race cars, so I have a well-equipped garage and some ability to cuss, but I don't have a lot of time. A buddy wants to do it for $300 total for both sides plus parts cost.
Also, this is the bad part I really need input on. It has a whining when at light throttle load and above 50-60 MPH. This seems to come from the floorboard area behind me. Gear changes do NOT affect the pitch, but a change in throttle crowding makes it louder and weaker. It has no coast down noise at all, and the noise pitch seems to track the drive shaft speed. It is a whine much like the low gear set in an automatic trans, but it does it in any gear with or without 4WD on. The only thing that affects the level is slightly pushing the accelerator, speed, or weight I am towing.
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The subject: F150, 2007, 5.4L, FX4 version. It has only 80K miles and was very light used by my sister. It seems to me come with a 4R75E ....
Recently I notice a strange vibration every time tranny downshift from 4 to 3, specially noticeable going uphill. Some times can be feel when tranny shift from 3 to 4th...
A friend in my town comment to us, this is a very common condition here because there are just small streets and avenues so that truck shift very frequently betwen 4 to 3 and then back to 4th...
Sounds like a excessive wear on a bearing thrust ??
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I have a Phaeton and came to go out last night, only to notice an oily deposit on the drive in the rain (live in NW England so its always raining) started the car and there is a loud whining noise from the passenger side (no, its not the wife) that gets worse when you turn the wheel. My first thought was steering pump, but when I check, all the steering fluids look to be fine and are near the max level.
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My current 08 duty was bought with what I believe to be a procomp 6" lift modified to an 8" lift. The 100 mile drive home after buying the truck showed a tiny "hop" in the rear. I ditched the 37s for some new 35s. Still a tiny hop, mostly noticeable while under a load like climbing a hill. I pulled the rear driveshaft and had it fully rebuilt with a new carrier bearing as well. Still gots the hop? The truck has a carrier bearing drop bracket but I think it may be insufficient for the lift.
The rear driveshaft still has a slight bend in the middle of where the two driveshaft pieces connect. Are the 2 piece driveshafts on your 8" lifted trucks sitting straight with each other or do they have this bend as well?? I am thinking if I get a bigger drop bracket it may cure this slight hop I have? Lots of lifted trucks where I live but they are dam near all shortbox with 1 piece rear shafts so I haven't been able to find one to compare. By the way, my truck also has pro comp rear traction bars..
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I am about to acquire a Silver 2004 v8 Phaeton with 83000 mi. There is an issue that the owner is going to fix, but he and his Phaeton mechanic have not yet diagnosed correctly. It is a hum that comes and goes with a periodicity of about once a second (as in "waa waa waa ...") , seems to be coming from the left front. It becomes noticeable around 45 mph and as the speed increases it gets a bit louder and pitch gets higher but the waa waa ... interval does not speed up. Of course it might be speeding up so slowly that seems to be constant but doesn't seem that way.
They have replaced the tires and the LF wheel bearing. I know there are some wheel bearing issues and that is the usual suspect, but wouldn't a wheel bearing make a constant "waaaaa" and not a repeating harmonic "waa waa waa..."?
Also a harmonic resonance, which this seems to be requires 2 inputs, which are not quite at the same frequency. So I had thought about the cv joints, inner vs outer. I had the car on a lift with a mechanic that I have worked with for some time (german car specialist), and the cv boots were in good shape, so it seems unlikely that the cv joint(s) are bad as they usually (to my knowledge, which could be incorrect) do not fail unless the boot gets damaged and lube leaks out and dirt gets in.
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I have a 1995 Park Avenue 3.8 with 278,000 miles. Runs fine until about 3rd gear and 55mph when if under any load at all the whole car jumps and shutters. If not under load, like going up-hill, no shutter or skip and runs smooth. If accelerator pressed at all, even when running smooth the shutter begins. Normally does not shutter at lower speeds.
Thought it was the transmission, so serviced the transmission. No improvement.
Took car to local transmission repair. They drove and do not think it is the transmission. They did check pressure at the throttle body, gas flow - let gas flow into clear container, no debris or water - and pressure was in the 52 range. Dropped some on acceleration while in park.
Shop did scan the computer, no codes. Check engine light is not on. Checked fuel filter and it was good.
They also checked all the spark plug wires and indications were that all were firing and in good order. They misted the wires with a spray bottle to see if they could detect electrical leaks - did not find any.
The car is not driven that often and was very low on gas. After leaving the transmission shop, bought gas and initially the car ran great with no hesitation or shutter even at 55mph. Shutter returned within about a mile. The car acts as if it has time to fill a container with gas it runs fine until the container looses some of the gas then it runs rough, or if you are driving along and try to take more than the normal flow out of the container the car runs rough - if they makes any sense.
Bought new gas filler cap just in case. No change.
The fuel filter and fuel pump were replaced at the same time about 2 years ago.
The EGR was replaced about 1 1/2 years ago. New plugs and wires about 1 1/2 years ago.
There is sometimes, but not all the time, a loud pitched whistle which seems to be coming from the area of the gas tank. Oddly enough if the car is in park and running while the whistle is happening, if the brake is pressed, the whistle changes in pitch to a louder and fuller whistle. When the brake is released, the whistle pitch drops in volume and more of a shrill whistle. Same happens moving transmission from P to R.
I feel I have a fuel problem, however, fuel flow, pressure, etc., seem to be ok. The mechanic drove the car with pressure gauge attached to the throttle body and didn't seem to feel that the gas was the problem upon returning from the drive.
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Having clutch issues? I have just put 10k miles on my JSW and the clutch feels like it slipping in 1st gear when heavier load(uphill ETC) is present its even worse. We have never drove it hard pretty much cream puff.
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I have a 2008 XL 4.2 auto trans with 60,000 miles on it. We purchased a new travel trailer with a total weight just under 5000 lbs that we pulled for about 2000 miles this summer. On the last trip we noticed the truck was missing pretty bad going up hills or under load. After we got home I started to notice the miss at times even not towing. Did a tune up with Motocraft plus and wires and seems to still have a miss at an idle and very low RPM. What would be best to check next?? Would Coil be logical?
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We've got a 2012 Hyundai Accent GDI. I've been hearing the rattle "ping" when the engine is under load (accelerating hard or uphill). I've read that this is typical for these engines.
I took it to our local Hyundai dealership since it's still under the 60,000 mile warranty. They updated the computer settings and I put in a fuel additive to clean up deposits. They also told me to buy name brand gas from here on out (Exxon, Shell, Mobil) as these engines don't handle cheap gas well.
Now that I've given you enough of a backstory, here are my questions:
- For those that have experienced the rattle "ping", what did you find fixed the problem?
- Any tips or things to look out for when cleaning the throttle body etc?
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2005 Ford F150 lariat 5.4
I had a misfire under a bit of a load (acceleration) and up hills. I changed spark plus with OEM Motor craft ones, truck ran super nice for a couple week.
Had the engine light flash, slow down and the RPM go up a tiny bit then back down and the light goes off
Now I'm back to miss fire different location, and a rough idle. I've swapped coil packs around and the miss fire stayed on cylinder 4.
Spark plug screwed or injector or ?????
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1999 F350 7.3 Super Duty surges when going uphill with a load. The only time we drive it is when towing the horse trailer - also has a camper on.
The truck doesn't physically surge, just the RPM gauge goes up and down and along with it a humming noise.
Also, What conditions should I engage the towing button on the end of the gear shift? I've heard several answers. Should it be engaged when towing or off?
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Phaeton 3.0 tdi ... For some time i have been noticing that the car has a slight hesitation when changing gear from 1 to 2 and barely noticeable from 2 to 3, but as the car gets warmer the hesitation becomes shorter, I don't know if it really is a hesitation , it mostly feels at light acceleration before the oil gets to operating temperature and feels like it slips for like a half second before engages second gear , but as the car warms up it gets better , the car has about 230.000 km , since i bought it i put 50.000 km and did not change the transmission fluid and i guess that before me no one changed it, VW says that the atf should not be changed and many people say that it could make it worse, what the problem is and should I change the Transmission fluid ?
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Recently I have another problem:
When I drive uphill on the way the car's transmission doesn't shift up to the upper gear,the gear stays on 1,when I press the gas pedal more the EPC light comes on the dashboard,I must release 2-3 times the gas pedal then the gear goes up to 2-nd or 3-rd gear.This happens only when I drive uphill,when drive on flat street this problem almost doesn't come.
Another,when I drive downhill,the gear doesn't release sometimes too,the car tries to stop from 3-rd gear directly to 0,and the RPM goes straight to 100-200,even the car turns off... I heard something for the VW Phaeton transmission problems,and that it can be SOFTWARE flashed and the problems go away???
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So most noticeable is when i go into reverse. Initially it makes a loud clunking noise until the car begins moving then it stops ( sounds to come from right under the middle of the car, middle/front). Nothing like this in 1st from a slow start. But Another different noise between first and second when accelerating hard.
As I go to shift from first to second there's another louder clunk in between shifts. It almost sounds as if my seat wasn't bolted down tight and was moving. But definitely coming from under the car again, same spot...I just had a 42DD downpipe installed.
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So I pulled the trigger and got my B5 a little brother... found an awesome 07 4mo wagon sport package with all the bells and whistles with low miles and at a great price. I just couldn't resist. So far I'm loving the car and the extra ~50% hp over the old 30V
I did notice some very noticeable clicking noise in the dash area. It seems to be related to the Climatronic moving flaps around to change air distribution. At random times it starts clicking (kind of a relay sound) a few times in a row and then stops or sometimes it continues clicking in different patterns. When I press the off button on the Climatronic controls it stops immediately.
I'm kinda thinking that it's probably the normal way Climatronic works in this model but it I'm not 100% sure (and the 2001 was silent in that regard) so I want to make sure that it's not something abnormal (like a flap sticking and the sounds I hear is the system trying to flip it a few times before giving up).
Is the clicking normal or should I have the dealer take a look at it? I'll probably take it in soon anyway to get an alignment (car doesn't pull to the side & tires look evenly worn but the steering wheel is about 5 degrees (rough guess) to the right when going straight.
Anything else I need to look out for with this car? It has about 35k miles and all services so far have been done (incl. oil changes every 5k). No open recalls besides a "silent" service action related to the battery cable or something like that (according to the dealer where the car had been services - I called them up before I bought it). There was no major repair work done to the car like the dreaded oil pump bolt issue. Would that even be a concern for an 07 (car was built in Feb 07)?
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I know- another noise diagnosis thread but I'm very confused and worried about these noises coming from the front of my car. It's a creaking noise that's most noticeable when I engaged the brakes. I first assumed it was an engine mount- hopefully it is. I'm replacing my vf dogbone bushings before Tod. But this doesn't sound like rubber creaking, by metal. Like the chassis by the strut mounts. I hope it's nothing regarding the v3's. Maybe it's something with the brakes? I also hear I slightly when going over speed bumps. Again, I doesn't sound like the rubbery rear sway creaking. What could be the cause? I'm replacing the pads and fluid before Tod as well..
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2008 SE V6 Convertible : I have noticed that the road noise has gotten significantly worse. I don't think it's the tires as they have been well inflated and still have about 80% tread left. The noise gets very noticeable starting at 30 mph and gets louder with speed, (by the time I reach 70MPH / 2.5K RPM its already VERY LOUD) and you can even feel the "grinding" vibration in the accelerator pedal and steering wheel. It seems to from the front. A kind of cycling hum (not constant; but broken like the tip of a helicopter blades). The noise does not change in turns; and it's not a loud clunking noise.
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I have a new 2014 RX350, and around the 500 mile mark I began hearing a faint static/buzzing noise that is definitely noticeable when it is very cold outside. It seems to be related to the braking system (i.e. when you press and release the brake pedal), but I have heard it when I'm just driving and not touching the brake pedal. It almost sounds like the car's electronics are going through a self-check, but it is audible. Took my RX to the dealer and they said that the noise is "normal" and that all third generation RX's have that noise - something to do with the brake pedal modulation? All I know is that it is annoying, especially when everything else is so quiet when you drive without the radio on and the fan speed turned down. Definitely disappointing in any car but especially a Lexus.
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