Phaeton :: W12 Brakes Shudder Badly?
Mar 20, 2012
I have a Phaeton W12. When I brake there is a slight shudder at most speeds unless I brake fairly hard, except when traveling at 120 km/h and 85km/h, at these speeds the shudder is severe uless I brake hard, but this could be that the car slows out of these 'bad speeds' quickly. The shudder is unnerving and severe enough to expect that it will cause damage. I did have the disks/rotors skimmed on a lathe, I thought this had fixed the problem, I can't be sure it didn't. All seemded fine initially, but I don't remember the speeds I was doing when I tested the skimmed disks for the first time.
To add to the fun, I brought with me when I moved countries and VW won't work on it before its registered locally and I need the brakes to be working to do so. Chicken and egg sort of problem. Parst are also not freely available here.
There is a rubber suspension bush in front which I noticed needs to be replaced, which I will order today, but it's likely to take a few weeks to get here unless it's used on an Audi or another car sold here, but it's the opposite front wheel which appears to have uneven wear on the disk.
View 23 Replies
Advertisement
99% sure it's time for brakes. Sounds like the wear indicators are squealing. I'll pop the tires off tomorrow and take a close look. Found a thread on here about doing brakes. Sounds pretty easy.
View 9 Replies
The brakes on my Equinox squeal badly when I back up but don't seem to squeal at all otherwise. It's driving me crazy...and probably my neighbors, too, whenever I back out of my driveway.
View 4 Replies
I have 1994 Ford Ranger 4.0. In Nov. I had the tranny rebuilt in Boston and also had new rotors and pads put on the front. By the time I got home, the truck was shaking badly when I hit the brakes. Since then, after it's parked a while, (I drive it once a week or so) I can't get it to move in "Drive". Reverse works fine. I thought it was the tranny but if I increase the gas flow, the rear wheels will screech, so I think the front brakes are stuck. After I'm able to "break" whatever holding them, the truck works fine. One of the rear wheel drum brakes is too tight and the wheel will feel pretty warm when I get it home and that will be taken care of but I don't really think it's the rear brakes or they wouldn't screech when I hit the gas.
View 5 Replies
At 55k, 72k, 76K and 91k the rear brakes have hung up, become very hot and smoked badly. Dealer service claims it comes from rust binding the calipers because we live in the Northeast. I've been driving for 35 years and never had an issue with any other vehicle. They cleaned the calipers and sent me on my way. I think there is an underlying issue. There is no way I should have this issue every 20,000 miles ( or less ). What else could cause this? Brake Lines? Master Cyl? Honda service want nothing to do with it. At very least I asked them to replace the calipers which they did not agree to do.
View 11 Replies
I have a 2001 vw Jetta with a manual transmission (just over 155,000 miles). My first set of front brakes lasted to about 135,000. After they were replaced a shimmy started to appear when braking a few thousand miles in. At about 8,000 miles the shimmy became so bad that I brought the car back to the dealer. They said the rotors were warped. The pads and rotors were replaced again and in about 5,000 miles same thing. The pads and rotors were replaced again at no charge and it is now about 5,000 miles later and the same thing is happening again.
View 2 Replies
I have an 2007 Toyota Prius and in the mornings, especially if it is humid or moist outside, my brakes grab badly during the first couple of stops....it's bad enough to make somebody run into the back of me. When it happens, you will also hear a screeching noise coming from the (sounds like ) rear brake, passenger side. I have taken the car to the local garage twice and they found nothing wrong. I have taken it to the local Toyota dealer 3 times and likewise, they found nothing wrong either.
View 3 Replies
Just replaced break pads and rotors. Inner pad on left side was gone leading me to believe slides were not working properly. Pulled apart, cleaned and greased everything, and replaced pads and rotors. Calipers seem to be working fine. Now when I break hard, the truck pulls badly to the left. When I break softly, it seeks normal. My front end is a bit out of whack and veers just a bit to the left. Do you think this is my issue with the breaking ? I'm getting new tires and an alignment soon but was just curious.
View 3 Replies
I got a phaeton v8, I feel a big shudder in the whole car while I have an amount of pressure on the brakes. for example: when approaching a red traffic light soft braking: no shudder, half braking: shudder and when hard braking the shudder is gone again. what could be the problem?
View 24 Replies
I had the transmission replaced last fall under warranty. the VW rebuilt unit was 09L 300 035 PX. When unit was replaced the dealer used G 060 162 A2 as the fluid. Was that the right oil? Shouldn't they have used the upgraded G 055162 A2 and the new reflash? The shudder has started to return and I am off of warranty.
View 15 Replies
Yesterday I filled my V10 with diesel and as soon as I started the engine to leave the petrol station the car seemed to shudder.
I joined the traffic and passed it off intially as poor road surface. But as I joined a queue to enter the motorway I realised it was the engine!
It was sort of surging, or perhaps it's better explained by saying it was dropping, shuddering down from say 800 RPM to around 400 then picking back up again. I revved it to 1000 RPM and it seemed fine, but if I let it drop to idle is carried on leaping and jerking for about another 3 or 4 minutes.
I then entered the motorway and it responded fine and the problem has not come back so far.
What could it be? Missing on one cylinder? Is this going to be problem? Hope not
View 5 Replies
My daughter, after turning 16, has claimed our '07 with 170K as her own. Both my wife and daughter have been complaining that the car shudders when hitting the brakes.
For background, last fall, they heard a loud scraping noise coming from the front wheels, I decided that after 155K, it was time for a brake job. I pulled off the wheels and proceeded to swap the pads and rotors to discover that the scraping noise was coming from a rock caught between the hub and dust shield. Didn't really think about it prior to doing this, but this is a different beast when it comes to brakes and the pads still had plenty of life left on them. The piston on the right caliper refused to go back in to allow space for the new pads, so that needed to be replaced. Quite the frustrating job.
The brakes had been fine up until a month ago or so. I took it out for a test drive, but only detected a "shudder" when braking through about 20 mph. I didn't detect any pull in the brakes and the stopping power seems fine. They seem to experience something different than I do.
I plan on pulling the wheels off and having a closer look when our schedules allow. Is there anything in specific I should look for? The mechanical brakes kick in under 10 mph, correct? If the shuddering is happening above this speed, what in the regen braking system could cause this?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2003 Camry LE 4cly. Approx 150k miles. Car has been a good Camry. About 6 months ago it started to shudder when applying brakes. At first I thought rotors, but it seemed speed dependent. When over 40 it happens more often and more strongly. After the car gets below 10 to 20 the shudder ceases. Front pads are in reasonable shape. Rotating tires does not affect the shudder. Has never effected handling of vehicle. Brakes work without fail, just shudder in front end and steering wheel. I tried flushing the system, had not done that previously. Fluid was yellow, but not black. After the flush, the system seemed to shudder less, but still have the intermittent shudder. There are no error code for ABS, and the light is not on and does not come on.
View 5 Replies
On my 05 V8 with only 39K miles, I've been experience a very slight engine shudder while the car is at idle. No fluctuations in the RPMs and performance seems normal. I use Shell premium gas and there are no indicators that anything mechanical is wrong. It has been doing this since I purchased the car in Jan 2013.
I had my VW dealer check the car out and they replaced the spark plugs and some other part which can't remember at this particular moment (3:31am can't sleep) but the engine still shudders.
I took it to another VW dealer and the service adviser who is experienced with Phaetons told me to find some Ethanol Free gas and give that a try. I found a place which sales 91 Octane Ethanol free and I put in 3/4 of a take because I was pretty much already full. The shudder is still there.
Do I need to run a few full takes of the 91 Octane Ethanol free before something changes.
I would like to try and get my Phaeton idling smoothly because this slight shuddering kind of bugs me. I've read some post which stated that on some Phaetons this is normal but there has to be something I can do especially since I have a bumper to bumper VW warranty. I just feel that a 86K dollar car should idle as smoothly as my Wife's Toyota Avalon.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2003 Hyundai Sante Fe 2.7 v6. About 2 months ago I started the car and it was kind of a rough start. It usually starts right up. I was driving in the rain and when I would press the brakes the car would shudder like it wanted to turn off but the head lights and dash lights did not flicker. I had it towed to my mechanic. He found a broken vacum hose and replaced it. The car seemed fine.
Today it started up kinda rough and then would shudder and not accelerate no matter how hard I pressed on the gas pedal. It was also idling roughly.
I bought the car from a friend who was the first and only owner. She has ALL of the service records and took good care of it. It has about 120k miles on it. The spark plugs and battery are only about a year old. It has a half tank of gas. I checked all fluids, pulled a few plugs and they look fine too. Air filter is clean too.
I asked the previous owner if she had ever changed the fuel filter and she said she didn't think so. I reviewed the service records (assuming I have them all) and it doesn't look like it was ever done. I have run seafoam through it 3 times since I bought it last August. I change the oil regularly and rarely let the gas get below 1/4 tank.
View 10 Replies
Lexus LS460
Issues:
1. Just put her in for the SECOND brake actuator replacement at 45k miles. First failed at 22k miles, so they DO have that consistency thing nailed.
2. Also had to replace BOTH B-pillar trim pieces which have soft facing material that cannot withstand the constant barrage of seat belt buckles banging into them during retraction. They start by showing marks, then dents, and finally the material gives up altogether and begins to shred.
3. Brake shudder due to "rotor warpage." I believe this problem is due to production engineering (or lack thereof) during final assembly. Hub runout at maximum combines with rotor runout at maximum, even though both are within tolerance, to produce a stackup tolerance outside the spec which results in warpage given enough thermal cycles. The reason the problem occurs only rarely is due to hub and rotor tolerance variations AND the various stackup combinations arbitrarily selected during final assembly of rotors to hubs.
4. The recirculation-biased AC causes mold (and odor) buildup in the AC system. Since this "choice" was made by Toyota to gain U.S. CAFE credits, the fault lies more with EPA and DOT than with TMC. Still, the unsuspecting Lexus customer is the one who suffers.
I'll buy an extended factory warranty on the car, run it for another year (20k), then sell it before the chickens come home to roost.
View 9 Replies
I just bought a 2007 Sonata V6 (GL or GLS). Before buying the car, the last owner had the rear brakes "serviced" because the mechanic said the brakes were "sticking" - charged the old owner $300 for it. When I am on the highway and I brake, the rear brakes shudder. Do you think the shudder is because the rear brakes are still sticking, or because it needs new rotors?
View 5 Replies
When my R32 had a little over 2000 miles on it I the brakes started to shudder each time I touched the brake pedal. Driving in the rain one day it was terrible because every mile or so when the brakes did the wiping the steering wheel would just shake. I took it in and they originally said I probably had rust on the brakes. The dealer ended up turning my rotors because they said they were warped pretty bad. After that the car was just fine for the next 1500 miles, then I slowly started to feel the shudder coming back when I brake. I am now at 4700 miles and it is as bad as it was before. I am taking it in for my first oil change Monday and told them to check my brakes again. I hope they do something because I don't want to run in every 2000 miles to have the rotors turned.
View 18 Replies
So Ive got slotted rotors with Hawk pads up front. I put them on a while back, pads are probably getting to the end of their life. Rear brakes and rotors were done by the dealer recently. X code springs up front, stock springs with RAS in the rear.
Under quick, semi-hard braking I get some heavy shudder, not sure if its from the from or the rear. I had been thinking it was probably the brakes themselves, and planned on addressing the fronts soon. But then I read something around here about axle wrap under braking, and am now wondering if that's the cause. I am pretty sure that big rubber cone on my rear springs is gone, and I read that that is what prevents axle wrap.
View 4 Replies
2008 LS600hl with 31K miles, been having low speed brakes shudder for quite sometime even after changing pads and machining rotors. This weekend thought about putting grease on the pins holding the pads, this did the trick, shudder is gone!
View 9 Replies
Had a shudder/shaking sometimes on my 01 Superduty. Found left front caliper was sticking. Took it to a shop and he replaced both calipers and pads. Picking it up after he was done and he asked if I had the ABS light on before the work was done and I said NO. He tried and tried to get the light off but it is still on. Codes are C1155 and C1158. I got home and checked the abs connector it seemed ok. Looked at the master cylinder and it was a little low but also noticed he did not put the cap back on(it was just sitting aside). I kinda thought if he got air in the system....it would be a hard pedal but all works ok except for the ABS light. Will not go into how it shudders a little when stopping because he did not resurface the rotors like I asked. Maybe I should go back thru and bleed the brakes again?? The abs sensor on the hug is approx. 3 years old. and have never had the abs light on.
View 2 Replies
