This morning just had what sounds like a vibration noise from offside front when pulling away from slow from a left hand corner but without the vibration being transmitted through steering wheel. Noise went within seconds and no problem at speed - recurred from standing start 10 minutes later
View 6 RepliesA day before 3 yr service and MOT test on 7 seat 2011 Santa Fe, a noise from the rear offside wheel. Advised the garage to check and they discover the handbrake shoes were detaching from their mountings, not wearing out but detaching. This has apparently happened before causing someone's wheel to lock up and the vehicle recovered to the garage.
Strange that the same garage has seen it before so it must be happening elsewhere.
Cross pond Translations....
handbrake=parking brake
MOT = annual government safety test
Shoes = pads / linings
Rear offside = left right rear
I have an early production 2008 2.0T 6MT. The car has just over 2000 miles on the clock. I noticed that early in the morning, when it's cold, pulling out of my driveway, I hear a clunk from the front end. It doesn't always happen. Also, on the highway, the car feels like it wanders left and right, certainly more than my old B5.5 did, and in general it pulls to the left and the steering wheel sits slightly to the right. I found the following TSB on this site: [URL] .... My question is, this TSB doesn't mention anywhere that an alignment should be performed as part of the service. Should that be done? I'm going to take it to the dealer tomorrow.
View 4 RepliesI hear a a series of "clunks" rather than "rattles" (not high pitched) when driving slow over bumpy roads. The noise is coming from the rear only. I think it is more evident in cold temperatures, but I'm not sure. I'll find out if it ever gets above freezing again in MN. Strut mounts? If so, DIY project?
View 6 RepliesSo recently my car has been making almost a crunching noise in the front end of my car usually pulling out of the driveway or hitting any type of bump. But it doesn't seem to always happen. It's a louder crunch when it's colder out. It almost sounds like a rusty door being closed/opened rather then a crunch. My car has just about 77k on it and this is the only issue I have with it.
View 16 RepliesOK, so this is a 2012 ML350 Blue-tech with around 31,000 miles on it. Lately when it is warm (either by driving for 30 minutes or more, or by outside temperature of 80 plus), it has been making the strangest front end groaning noise when coming to a stop and when pulling away. It sounds like the front end suspension is "groaning". It doesn't have to be a hard stop, gentle will do just fine. The car comes to a halt, the front end dips slightly - "groooaaan" (perhaps more on the rebound than the initial dip). You start up again, the front end unloads, and "groan".
Very disconcerting on a car as smart as this. Tom and Ray know this car - this is the one with the "smart radio" (switches channels at voice command…) The dealer is stumped. They have the car for the third time now and even though both a mechanic and the shop foreman have been shown the problem (taken for a test drive ), they have been unable to come up with either a diagnosis or a fix. They replaced the front sway bar links once to no avail.
So I got my Haldex fluid and DSG fluid changed two weeks ago. When I picked the car up I noticed a vibration when I was making tight turns. Last week I called the dealer and told them. They said to drive it a bit more to see if it works it self out. But now after getting back from H2Oi, it still is doing it but not as bad.
Its a vibration you can feel and a rumble you can hear when making a tight turn at slow speed. Like turning into a parking space or turning at a stop sign. What would this be? I searched but couldn't find an exact answer.
I just brought my6 Speed Automatic Transmission Phaeton V8 in, because under hard acceleration mostly between 3+4 or 5+6 for a short moment a howling noise with vibration into gear selector appears. I was able to demonstrated it to the Technician, but he said there is not much to do because no Fault code will show up and if he ask VW they will say he needs a reference vehicle to replicate it.
View 24 RepliesI need to better qualify when it happens (it may be always, not certain) but when I first drive off in my car in the morning I find the initial 10s or so there is a delay before my power comes on stream.
So I am moving, but very slowly and the V8 doesn't seem to be pulling. There is a stop sign at the end of my street that is maybe 5 houses away, so there isn't a lot of time for acceleration, but its mostly momentum before I hit the stop sign, even if I had depressed the accelerator.
It doesn't jerk or anything when the power comes online but it is very strange to me that there is a delay. Is this normal or an indication of a problem or wear item somewhere?
I recently bought an'08 Base model. It is making a creaking noise in the front end on the left side either behind the wheel or under the motor. It only does it when taking off from a stop and/or turning mainly to the right during slow speed, seems to be when the body weight is shifting. To me it sounds as though something needs greased or maybe a strut.
View 2 RepliesI have a 00 expedition 4wheel drive eddie bauer. 100k miles. New tires, recent alignment, new upper ball joints and tie rod ends, recent suspension change over to passive system with new shocks. Also must note I have "newer" front wheel bearings but they were from advance auto and not the suggested Moog ones.
I have a loud clicking noise at slow speeds. def sounds like its coming from the front area. Speeds up and slows down with acceleration. brakes do not change noise other than slow it down with tires. The truck also vibrates on the highway. I notice the tires are wearing (cupping)
Is it the cheap wheel bearings? what is the best way to test for bad wheel bearings? i think they are under warranty if I can find the receipt. Anything else i should test? can it be c/v joints or something?
I am considering purchasing a 2004 Chrysler Pacifica. It seems to be in excellent shape except for one thing--it makes a very noticeable creaking noise. The noise is coming from the front end and seems to only appear at very slow speeds (like in parking lots). The seller told me up front about the noise, and explained that it didn't start until he had someone "jerk" him out of a snowdrift in Colorado. He says that was about 4 years ago. He tells me he has had the front end aligned, he has had two motor mounts replaced and has had either the tie rods, or the tie rod ends (I'm not sure which) replaced, but the noise is still there. He claims mechanics can't find anything else wrong with it, and they assure him it is safe to drive.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 Lexus Es350, and I am having this issue:
When accelerating hard, the car will aggressively drift to the right. During normal driving it is otherwise fine.
When braking from 60-70mph, I will also get a significant vibration in the steering wheel.
What can be the issue here? I've read possible brake rotor, tire out of balance, alignment?
Are these 2 issues connected?
We have a 2012 Elantra Elite 6spd manual and ever since we bought it (from new) there has been an irritating noise like a graunch or short vibration that happens (sometimes but not all the time) when we are pulling away from a stand still e.g. traffic lights, parking spaces, etc in first gear.
It does not always do it and seems to be only in first and sometimes reverse but rarely. We have flagged this numerous times with the dealer (all recorded in their records), although until now they claimed they could not repeat the problem and given it is intermittent I will give them the benefit of the doubt but only just.
Finally I managed to get them to take it in today and have a look at the problem after taking a technician for a drive to demonstrate the issue and show how it does not matter if the car is under load or not it. I think it sounds like something rubbing/vibrating and coming from the cabin and not the engine bay.
The dealer has concluded that none of the exhaust TCB's are the cause and they have concluded that it is a "glazed" clutch plate or flywheel (without actually looking at it). The upshot is that the dealer says Hyundai say it is not covered by the warranty and if I want them to strip it down and have a look I have to pay for it. I have never heard of this phenomenon and in all the manual cars I have had if something goes wrong in the clutch or bearing area the noise is usually constant.
I have a 1996 850 glt .... As it is an Automatic, we don't rely on the handbrake to hold the car when parked as where we live is flat etc, but still use it.
Near side rear is fine, Off side rear refuses to work. I have a 1995 t5 that is currently in dry dock so can use for parts etc.
Adjusted up the brake shoes both sides with handbrake released by adjusting to locked on and backing off about 4 clicks. Then adjusted the lever so it gave me about 4-5 clicks before fully on.
NSR works as it should, OSR has had cable, shoes, caliper, disk replaced (all work as they should as individual items)and handbrake still not working.
I have a humming noise coming from the front end of my 2004 W12. I only notice the noise at highway speeds and it appears to only be audible when I turn the wheel to the right. For example, when traveling on the highway and the road bends slightly to the right or when I move into the right lane, I hear a faint hum coming from the wheel(s).
I started hearing the hum a few days ago but dismissed it as a symptom of my Phaeton Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder (POCD). While driving to and from DC last night on a night out with my wife, she commented on the presence of the hum as well.
I just had the LF wheel bearing replaced 2 weeks ago. Here are some possibilities I'v thought of:
RF wheel bearing
Low Power Steering Fuild
Other Steering Problems (leaking rack)
On a related note, where do you check the power steering fluid level? I can't seem to find the reservoir.
I've had my IS 250 F-Sport for exactly 6 months now, and over the last month I've noticed that when I'm pulling in to park or backing out (at a very low speed) with my steering wheel turned right or left from the center, I hear and feel some shaking/vibration from the car. I can't pinpoint if it only happens with the A/C on.
I live about 3 hrs away from my Lexus dealer now, and my first maintenance appointment is at the end of the month. I'm pretty disturbed. I have about 4500 miles on the car.
I'm hearing a clunk when I back out of my garage and cut the wheel to the right full stop. If I turn the wheel lock to lock I hear some clicking. Both of these sounds seem to emanate from the left front wheel area.
I have 26,000 miles on the car. Any conjecture as to what this could be?
I took it to the dealer and they blamed the trailer. I told them that I have pulled two different trailers and it did it with both. Then he said that the trailer was not heavy enough to weigh down the springs. So now I not suppose to tow an empty trailer? Also my father in law has pulled the trailer with his Z71 with no shake and the other belongs to a neighbor with a 98 F150 with no shake. The vibration only starts above 45mph. Any clue as to what could be causing this?
View 14 RepliesI've got a 2002 F350 DRW 7.3 truck I'm having a little concern over. It started this summer, when under very heavy pulling I was getting a very noticeable vibration between 20 and 25 mph. I did not think much of it, as it only happened under extreme conditions.
Now I'm getting the vibration all the time, and it's started another band which is 40 to 45 mph. It's much worse if you are very light on the throttle, if you're full throttle it's much harder to notice.
Truck has 154,000 miles.
A while back I posted a thread trying to fix a clicking noise coming from the front end on my F-350 dually when applying the brakes at slow speeds (under 15 mph).
While returning from our camping trip last week the noise is back again. It does not occur after the truck sits overnight or for a few hours. But after driving for 30 minutes or longer the clicking will return when I apply the brakes at slow speeds. I tested the rotor temps with a heat gun and it seems to start when the rotor temps get above 120 degrees F. So I removed the brake pads & calipers, regreased the slide pins, cleaned up the pads and applied some lubricant on the back of the pads. I also bent the pad clips so they would fit snugger/tighter in the slots.
Whatever I did seemed to cure the clicking while driving around this weekend. I made sure I got the front brakes nice and warm - up to 180 degrees or so.
When I did this same procedure a few months ago the clicking went away - but eventually returned.
Should I get some better clips? Replace the sliding pins? Pads? The rotors & pads were replaced this winter & the shop said they and the labor are still under warranty. But if they use the same clips - I'm concerned I'll be back to square one in a month or so.