Phaeton :: Vibration During Light Acceleration On 3rd Gear In 1000 - 2000 Rpm Range
Feb 21, 2013
W12 2004 light vibration/struggling during light.
View 3 RepliesW12 2004 light vibration/struggling during light.
View 3 RepliesBut I have noticed over the past week of driving, whenever the RPMs are around 1000-2000, it is very hard for me to pick up speed, and I can feel a little bit of a rumble/vibration through the steering wheel. So...
If I feather the gas, the RPM increases slightly and you can hear/feel the engine rumble/vibrate. The speed doesn't really increase...
If I hit the gas more than 1/2 way down, turbo kicks in and the car shoots forward.
Is this normal? I find it very hard to add a little bit of acceleration if I feather it, the engine seems to be resisting it, if I hit it any harder, the turbo kicks in around 2500 RPMs. It almost feels as if it is in too high of a gear and the engine has a hard time accelerating a little bit...This is around ~40-60KM/hr
I have only done 18,000 Kms on my 2013 Elantra GLS. Whenever I am in traffic driving real slow, and whenever the gear shifts in 2nd, the acceleration begins to drop to 1000/1500 RPM very rapidly while pressing and releasing the pedal, and it becomes jerky...
I will try posting a video, but meanwhile, it gets really annoying at times and I need to maintain a very feather foot to make sure it doesn't jerk especially when there are passengers on board..
My V8 is "sputtering" between 1000 - 2000 RPMs. Not only can you feel it, but you can see the tachometer bounce up and down as well. No problems accelerating or putting the engine under load - it's only between that RPM range where there seems to be hesitation. The car is not giving any fault codes, and I just recently had all plugs and coils changed. (The car ran great for 2000 miles following the plug and coil change.) It started on a road trip, and I took it to the local dealer. They thought it was bad gas. (I've since run several tank fulls through it...)
My suspicion is a mass air flow meter beginning to go, but until it triggers a fault, I can't say for sure. The dealer wants to check the MAFs values and to do a fuel tank pressure test to see if it's the fuel pump. I do have the Real Driver warranty, but they will not cover investigative costs. I'm not too excited about throwing money to test a bunch of different things.
I leased a 2015 Honda CR-V AWD LX on March 11, 2015. The following day I noticed a rough vibration/shuddering/chattering that appeared to be coming from the transmission when the rpms ranged between 1,000 and 2,000. The roughness was evident at any speed (mpgs) when the tachometer reading was between the previously stated range. The service technician reported feeling the same roughness, but noted that the problem was characteristic of the CRV with a CVT transmission. On Tuesday March 17, I went back to the dealer and discussed the problem with the service manager. He also stated that he was aware of that particular problem and that it was peculiar to the 2015 CRV with the CVT transmission. He took my car for a test drive and admitted feeling the chattering. It was also evident to me as I sat in the passenger’s seat. He then took out another new CRV and it too exhibited the same characteristics.
View 18 RepliesI have a 2000 b5 wagon with a 2.8 5spd with 200k on it .... Its slammed on coils and i get this squealing in reverse i dont know what it is i just rebuilt the front end ie control arms... also have a nasty vibration from 1000rpms to 3000 rpms could that be engine mounts/snub mount?
View 7 RepliesI just brought my6 Speed Automatic Transmission Phaeton V8 in, because under hard acceleration mostly between 3+4 or 5+6 for a short moment a howling noise with vibration into gear selector appears. I was able to demonstrated it to the Technician, but he said there is not much to do because no Fault code will show up and if he ask VW they will say he needs a reference vehicle to replicate it.
View 24 RepliesMy car has been vibrating under acceleration since past 2 months. It isn't present in first gear but is evident in second and third gear ,and increases with more acceleration. I replaced engine mounts as they were shot,and got the wheels balanced but the vibration still persists
View 6 RepliesI have what feels like a rotational vibration (front to back) during mid to hard acceleration in 5th gear (60-65+mph) and its driving me crazy trying to figure this out. I can slightly feel it under hard acceleration in 3rd gear as well.
I have tried two different sets of wheels (both after market and stock) with no luck. I am starting to think it is in the motor and not the suspension... Or could it be the trans? What can I check/inspect to get how to tackle this?
Info on the car: 2003 Wagon 1.8T 5sp. 40k miles
2000 v10 with 188400 miles. Everything runs great. No leaks. Oil pan gasket is weeping, but not dripping. Don't want to cross that bridge yet. Been towing a dual axle trailer with a little car on it quite a bit the last couple of months. Probably total 1,000 miles. Drove it up north which was a steep climb so it really had to work getting up the hills.
My question is, the oil light started flickering last night, and the gauge was also flickering from the L to normal range. It was jumping quite quickly. I put a quart of oil in it today, and the gauge never acted up again. So i think that ruled out the oil sending unit. The truck doesn't leak oil anywhere, at least according to the driveway. Maybe burning oil since I've been towing a lot? I checked the oil dipstick, but couldn't get a good reading. I can post pictures later.
Now that I use my truck as a daily driver I am noticing a vibration under acceleration at 30-35 and constant vibration at 45-50 accelerating or maintaining speed. I have replaced all three u-joints as well as new ribbed highway tires all around and still have the vibration. It seems worse in OD. I have done a little research and am either going to shim center support/machine a new one or have a one piece shaft made and need info on how to successfully gotten rid of this vibe on their truck mainly the amount of shimming required and the final driveline angle. It seems that most posts regarding this issue lean towards the fact that the 45-50mph vibe is normal for my year super duty and that's probably right but I want to remedy problem not "live with it!" (10 mile 45mph stretch to work @ 4AM, vibe bugs the heck out of me!)
Truck is 2000 f250 SC 2wd 4r100 3.73 gear currently 51000 miles.
A couple of weeks ago, I went out in the evening after work, started my car and the CEL came on. It was fairly cold, probably 20 F. The car idled fine, but lacked power under acceleration. After the engine warmed up, it ran fine. The light stayed on for about a week, with the same symptoms. This week, we got a warm spell, 50s and 60s, and the light has gone out. This would seem to imply some malfunction of a temperature sensor, presumably coolant. It seems that when the engine is extremely cold, it is not adjusting the mixture appropriately, after it warms up, it is fine, or at least acceptable. I have an appointment to bring it in to the dealer. I assume they will be able to retrieve the code even if the light is not currently on.
View 4 RepliesI've got a V8 with about 250 miles - I took delivery last Saturday. I'm hearing a groan in the exhaust between 1000 and 1500 rpm.
It sounds (and feels) like it's coming from the underbody beneath the center console/arm rest. I can feel the vibration in the gas/brake pedals and the driver's seat. It doesn't seem to matter what speed or gear I'm in... even Neutral. Definitely related to engine rpms as it happens while downshifting as well.
I haven't looked under a T-reg lately. What is under that area... is there a resonator in the exhaust? It almost sounds like a loose brush shield or maybe a bad baffle somewhere.
I have a 2000 Jetta with the 2.0 automatic and just like the title states, I have recently developed a engine vibration that is felt at all times. It is much worse when the car is in gear. I only seem to feel it in the gas and brake pedals. It does not seem to depend on speed nor does it only occur at certain rpms. It feels like someone zip tied a vibrating back messager to my pedals. I want to find out what it is because on long commutes my foot begins to feel like its falling asleep. I can visually see the engine vibrating with the car in gear. I am leaning towards motor mounts.
View 1 Replies[URL] .... I reviewed the thread but my issues happened all throughout my drive back.
The car started to "buck" between 500-1000 rpm while in 1st gear. Randomly in 5-6th gear it did the same thing ( Car felt like it wanted to shut off in the middle of driving). I also smelled a horrible petrol scent when stopped at a red light. The car never totally died, but it felt like it wanted to the whole time.
What could be the issues? Coil Packs? Bad Gas? Belts? Battery?
My car just had an oil change with amsoil and new vw oil filter. New spark plugs in the summer, fuel filter changed, and rear diff fluid changed.
I drive a 2008 Elantra automatic,and have a constant engine shudder/vibration whenever the rpms are between 1000 and1500. The engine shudder stops as soon as I accelerate above 1500 rpms,or take my foot off the gas completely.
The dealer recommended cleaning of the fuel injector system,not sure if thats the course to take.I do know my model has had fuel pump issues,but the dealer has told me all recalls on the car have been processed.
My W12 Steering wheel seems to no longer adjust in the up/down range when I use the button on the side of the steering column. It does move in/out. Is there a way to reinitialize or calibrate the steering wheel.
View 1 RepliesThe car accelerates unevenly when the rpm is in the range of about 2200 - 2800 rpm. Above that engine speed, it quickly smooths out. I replaced the distributor in it in Jan. 2010 and I'm wondering whether the distributor and/or vacuum advance is the cause of this behavior. I don't know whether the distributor also has a centrifugal advance. If it does, then I guess that could another possible cause.
Could I test the vacuum advance by disconnecting the 2 vacuum lines from the vacuum advance control? How to troubleshoot this behavior?
The distributor was bundled with the vacuum advance control, so I presume I'd be replacing the whole assembly if I can verify that the distributor or vacuum advance control is the problem.
I have had my Phaeton for 5 years, and every time I start it, the Depress Foot Brake light (amber) next to the R on gear shift always flashed. I assumed it did to tell me to press on the brake to shift gear. Well, two days ago I could not get my car started. Had to get a tow to VW dealer (48 miles) because a jump start did not work. After I checked in with ticket writer, he went to my car and (yeah, guess what?) inserted the key and started it. He called me out to the delivery spot to show me the light. He said it is not supposed to flash, but comes on steady. Bottom line is, I drove it home with no charge to me (except for tow job), and today I went out and again it would not start.
It was too late to get it towed. I was told by ticket writer that perhaps I had something slip down into the gear area, which might interfere with a sensor. Is there something else I should look for? By the way, a true confession, the night before the first trouble, I was curious and inserted my key into the flashlight hole to check on its depth to see if it does charge the flashlight, and when doing so, it caused a spark (I know, that was STUPID!). Could this have caused my starting problems? When I insert key to start, I get the message Move Gear Shift to P/N position.
I just recently rotated my tires and now I have a lot of vibration while driving in the 65-75 mph range. There are some areas like around 74 mph it smooths out where I could cut a diamond on the steering wheel. Most of the time while driving in the 55 mph range I don't notice it. I had the front tires rebalanced but they didn't seem to be the problem. Where should I look next?
View 14 RepliesLast couple months, I've started to have some major vibration in the front end when reaching the 60-70 mph range. Some minor vibration in the 55-60 and 70-75 ranges, but primarily (and worse) in the 60-70 range. It only happens when I'm pressing the gas for more acceleration (particularly when I gun it), not when I'm coasting in that range. I had the tires balanced a month or so ago, so I know it's not that.
View 1 Replies