Phaeton :: VW V6 3.0 Diesel Vehicle Power Supply Battery Overheat
May 17, 2014
I was driving (about 800 km), when suddenly I realised that some strange smell is going out from my car's boot. When I checked, I found out that Vehicle Power Supply Battery was hot, making some strange noise (like hissing), plus I saw that the battery exterior wall (towards to the trunk) was waved like it was overheated. But because all these stuff happened in the middle of my way, I could do nothing, so I continued my driving.
After 300 km I felt huge impact, I realized that I lost my 6th and 5th gears, after some time I realized that I lost 4th gear. That I stoped just in case not to break something. When I tried to start the engine, It didn't started, so I understand that all problems was besause Vehicle Power Supply Battery was drained.
As I mentioned before, all these stuff was in the middle of highway, therefore I took the wires (crocodile), connected Starter battery with Vehicle Power Supply Battery and managed to start the car's engine and get to the City of Prague. I took out the Vehicle Power Supply Battery, opened battery cells and found out that all of them were dry, no acid at all.
My question is - could it be that the Vehicle Power Supply Battery was overcharged (overheated) because of some mistake of battery charge controller and all acid just go away in some way?
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Went to go and start my truck this morning and noticed after it was running that it sounded like a misfire, then i seen the smoke... I shut the truck down and lifted the hood and seen that somehow i had a high pressure fuel injector supply line on the Lh side break off. The line that goes from the fuel rail to the injector port on the valve cover (theres 4 of them on a side). There doesn't seem to be an o-ring or anything on them, they are just pressed over and tighten down.
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. The other day I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark (if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year. I also had to refill my degas bottle up to the fill line. Took 2 gallons of Ford VC-3-B Coolant and water mix. After a short run to verify the problem, it took another 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of mix. But, no overheating. No signs of leaks anywhere. Just a strong scent of coolant on shutdown outside the truck. Pressure tested the cap, I don't have a way of testing the system pressure.
Data from Autoenginuity:
Engine Oil temp 195-202 Degrees
Engine Coolant #1: 188.2-199.5 Degrees.
Engine Coolant #2: 125.5-129.9 Degrees.
I have the full CSV file.
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I posted recently because my '05 Touareg had been in twice for a "coolant overheating" error when the car was driven less than three minutes after a long cold start. They replaced the main computer and I had it back for a week and everything was fine. This morning, the same error occured. We took it in. When my husband drove it to the dealer, the warning went away after several minutes. They said that the error never logged on the computer and there's nothing wrong.
One person had responded last time with the sensor issue but got it resolved. I am really concerned about the possible problem that they can't seem to fix. They seem to be ok with it.
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Coolant overheat warning. Luckily, was moments from home so pulled in and stopped for about 6 hours. Checked coolant on level surface...looks ok. Started it up and drove around neighborhood. Car steadily climbs to 200 degrees F and then will sit there for around 5 minutes. As oil temperature breaks the halfway point, the coolant temp begins to steadily rise again until it hits just below to overheat mark for a couple minutes, then finally pushes through into the red.
Parked car overnight.
Drove to VW repair shop. Exact same results driving there. Temp increases from ignition to 200 degrees over a couple minutes then stops for 5+ minutes. Oil gets hot, coolant gets hot, I get very hot.Only 10 Months ago, I replaced the timing belt, water pump, and thermostat with genuine parts. I know what a pain in the arse it is to change these items so I did them all at once. I am sick thinking about having to do it yet again with these apes poking around my car.
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I am wondering if there is any way when I turn my car off that the cig/12v? outlet will still work? I have a 19 month old and we have a portable dvd player that he watches in the car and it is plugged in, when we stop for something and one of us run in a store for something we like to keep him entertained, but if I turn the car off it kills the power. How to keep it on, vag-com?
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The DRLs in my 13 are 12v or a lesser power supply? Planning out my retro fit and wanting to do something different DRL wise but need a 12v supply, I know the headlights themselves are turned down some and can be adjust via VagCom.
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I have a prius v, bought July 2014. Car was on the showroom floor and needed jumped and to sit on the charger for awhile before they'd let me take it home. The dome light got left on this past weekend 4/11-4/12/15 for about 28-30 hrs. The next day it wouldn't start, had it towed. The tow truck driver could get the lights to turn on and everything power on inside, but the engine. It wouldn't do anything. We got it into neutral. It would only go into neutral and park. Toyota said the battery was completely fried which they replaced under warranty. They then said due to the dome light being on, causing the wiring to overheat and fried the wiring. I need to replace all the wiring which isn't covered under warranty. Is this normal?
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Volvo850 turbo year94 I'm a lot like I do most of the repairs. But now I have a problem with the ABS code 444 No power supply to valves in hydraulic unit.
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Wiring up my Clearance lights for top of the cab, and for my running boards.
According to my diagrams there is a brown wire running along the passenger kick panel and down the gutter to the rear of the X.
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I have an 04 f250 diesel and i am wondering whatst are the minimum cca's i need to be able start my truck. Both of my batteries are no good anymore and i need to replace them both but not sure on the cca's the truck needs
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I have a 2004 Prius. I purchased a used brake control power supply and installed it. Do I have to reflash it?
I tried to relearn the Linear valve offset. I've tried to INITIALIZATION OF LINEAR SOLENOID VALVE AND CALIBRATION with the factory scan tool. I have both. The older one seems to work better when working on Gen II Prius. I also tried to reset the YAW rate sensor.
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What might be causing this transmission fault code?...It is the only one I get and makes it unable to see what gear I'm in when using the tiptronic mode. I can clear the code while I'm driving and it will be ok until I turn the car off then again it comes back up. Car is a 2002 Passat GLX 4 motion
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My truck had power to the Brake Controller until a recent road trip and now there is no power to the controller. All fuses are good. Which circuit the power comes from?
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I do a lot of diagnostic and keys programming but my mechanical knowledge isn't' that good. I had a minor accident last week and a car hit my Prius from the passenger front corner, Areand left a small dent, check the red X in the pic.
I noticed after the accident that the engine noise was much higher, I checked all ECUs with Techstream, I found only one error on the Transmission ECU:
C2318 Low Voltage Error(Power supply Malfunction).
Cleared it and didn't show again even after driving 200 milesIs
there anything behind this area that can cause that noise? or something responsible of reducing the engine noise might be damaged or broken?
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My friend has a 2008 Elantra, and she had me jump start the car the other day. The car jump started just fine, but then when it was idling, the headlights would flicker, as if there was an uneven of inadequate power supply. Then, when driving the car, turning the wheel and taxing the power steering would cause the headlights to almost turn off momentarily. After driving for 30 or more minutes, the car did not improve at all. I turned the car off, then went to start it, and immediately it was too dead to turn over again. I'm lost with the electrical, I don't think its the alternator.
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Today I changed my LH battery due to some issues i had when leaving the can unused for a day or two. I followed the changing procedure listed on the forum and everything went as planned. However now my power trunk wont work. I used the procedure to sync the power trunk but now when i hold the trunk button on my keyfob the lights flash etc but no sound or movement from the trunk.
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I am experiencing a pretty noticeable vibration from the rear of the vehicle (steering wheel does not shake and I have no "death wobble") when hooked to my 14K trailer and also my stock trailer (to some degree). Happens constantly whether loaded or not, although it is a bit better when loaded. Happens much more on rougher country roads, but is still there on the interstates.
The trailer is new to me and I rebuilt the entire brake system, repacked bearings & tires have great tread, but have not had the tires spin balanced.
Can't tell whether a shock change (FX4 Rancho) will fix it or not.
I DO get a pretty severe roller coaster deal when hooked up and going over a dip. Truck just continues to bounce tail to nose, tail to nose, etc. That in itself is obviously shocks, but I am more concerned about the vibration.
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if 08 factory running boards will fit on my 15? After ten weeks of waiting she finally in town but the dealer told me I never mentioned running boards so it's either swap my old ones or pay 600 for some after markets similar to the factory running boards.
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I am rebuilding the oil cooler and noticed since its removed I have great access to this fuel line pair from fuel bowl to soft lines below. How these disconnect at the soft lines? I happen to have a new set waiting to be installed. Is there a tool required ?
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I was driving my vehicle and turned a corner and the vehicle completely died. No illuminated instrument panel, power windows, radio, turn indicators, HVAC not working. Turned ignition key off and back on and blank instrument panel no information. The vehicle does not crank.
All components which do not require the ignition key turned on work fine; IE headlights (low and high beams; they are bright), emergency flashers, power mirror, power seats, brake pedal adjust, door locks (remote and from the door panel), horn, and interior lights to name a few.
Is there a relay which the ignition switch activates to provide power for all components tied to the ignition switch? If so where is it located.
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