Phaeton :: VW Coolant Leaking
Apr 12, 2015
Woke to some coolant under the car...
so I got under the car and found that the red leak (I did not touch it when I saw it .. I was in a hurry... ) was not atf after all... it is just the reddish VW coolant.... you can see it does look like ATF, but it is indeed sweet coolant
there was a significant marking at the bottom of the bell housing.
Seems almost impossible that it originated from inside there but there are no other traces that I could see.
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I have an 04, one air spiring is leaking. Covered by real driver warranty. VW no longer makes the part so they have to replace the entire system, it costs about $10,000. Great car but if you are buying one, get the real driver warranty.
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I have a problem with my 2006 Phaeton. This night I found one of the headlights color is red, almost purple, the right one, the left has no problems. I suspect the windscreen reservoir is leaking, because I have put yesterday 4L of windscreen fluid and now I have this problem. The reservoir is located near the right headlight. I have emptied the reservoir right away and waited for 2 or 3 hours but when I tried the color of the right headlight was the same. How can this problem can be resolved and what exactly may be broken in the xenon system.
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Right front strut is leaking. Guess it had to happen at some point. Dealer was unaware of history of support from VW due to changing system. Sent them to check in with VWNA about their paying for all but 1 strut. Fingers crossed. If this does not work, could spell the end of Phaeton ownership. Have owned 2004 V8 since new. Who has tried rebuilt struts?
Check engine light came on. Told is a thermostat (not a big deal, I guess) and cooling fan 2 is shot. Would some of labor be same required to replace timing belt? Need to do that soon and maybe can make more sense to do both. If not, may be time to take to someone other than dealer?
Had leak (passenger rear) up high. Was repaired, saying there was a broken part. With heavy rain, returned. They are checking further. I told them to be certain there is no clog. Any other thoughts?
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My car is BMW2000 323i. My coolant is leaking, I need to refill it every month. The dealer told me I need to change the radiator and some related components in the coolant system. But the labor fee is too high.
I was told to use a coolant seal to fix the problem like K-Seal. After a long time searching on the Internet, I got confused. Someone says it works, but other people say it never works. What should I do?
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My 09 w12 is leaking a clear oil from the back of the engine which is dripping off the Right hand side of the exhaust where it appears from the engine bay ?
it's not water , as the oil spots on my drive are not drying out ? it is also has no odour , so what is it ?? , the car has 16K miles and its bugging me.
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A little less than a year ago I decided to change the timing belt & water pump on my then 61k miles '05 V8. I bought the BlauParts timing belt kit and rented the tools from them also. The install went without a hitch, the old water pump gasket came off nice and clean and I installed the new water pump gasket without any RTV as per the instructions.
A couple of weeks ago the Phaeton hit 65k miles so I did an oil change and while I had the belly pan off I noticed a small whitish pink spot on the belly pan, right below the crankshaft pulley. Looking closer I found coolant traces that came from the water pump area. I cleaned it all up and decided to drive it for a few weeks to see if it's an actual ongoing leak or if that was maybe just an old leak that might have happened just after the install. Unfortunately it's an actual leak ..
First I thought maybe it's leaking out at the gasket but closer investigation shows that the leak is actually right below the pulley at the bottom of what looks like a freeze plug at the front of the water pump. Is this a common area for a leak with this type of water pump? It's only been installed for 11 months and 4,500 miles. Btw, the pump in the kit is a Saleri model GD42107.
I'm really bummed about this because it's a lot of work to swap a water pump out and I'd hate going thru all that work again (and having to rent the tools again). Question is, can I swap the water pump out without putting the front bumper into the service position? From what I recall the only clearance issue might be finding a puller that is short enough to pop off the camshaft sprockets with the radiator that close.
Here are a few photos from when I found the leak:
This was after a 200 mile trip, fresh coolant:
This is were the leak is coming from:
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Today I was filling the Windshield Washer container and all of the liquid went directly to the floor, that means something is leaking, but I haven't had any warning symbol in the console neither the VAG-COM system, is this a common problem ?, is it too hard to fix it ?, I will assume it should be covered by the CPO warranty ?
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How to identify this 'leaking' coolant hose? (cooler hose?), I took a picture with my cell ... It shows a stainless steel coolant line with calcified Dried/heater coolant residue on the outside, and I noticed it was leaking coolant (using a periscope mirror )...
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I'd noticed an oil leak drivers side and upon investigation it appears the rack has developed a leak. I lifted the car on the vehicle lift and when I did noticed oil pouring out of the boot surrounding the steering linkage coming from the steering rack. With the tires dropped the full amount this created a tilt of said boot allowing the oil that had filled the boot to drain out. My conclusion is the rack has developed a leak with the boot being full of oil.
I did a "steering rack" search but nothing of value appeared.
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Coolant overheat warning. Luckily, was moments from home so pulled in and stopped for about 6 hours. Checked coolant on level surface...looks ok. Started it up and drove around neighborhood. Car steadily climbs to 200 degrees F and then will sit there for around 5 minutes. As oil temperature breaks the halfway point, the coolant temp begins to steadily rise again until it hits just below to overheat mark for a couple minutes, then finally pushes through into the red.
Parked car overnight.
Drove to VW repair shop. Exact same results driving there. Temp increases from ignition to 200 degrees over a couple minutes then stops for 5+ minutes. Oil gets hot, coolant gets hot, I get very hot.Only 10 Months ago, I replaced the timing belt, water pump, and thermostat with genuine parts. I know what a pain in the arse it is to change these items so I did them all at once. I am sick thinking about having to do it yet again with these apes poking around my car.
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I got my 40k service and many other things done Friday. I was super happy until monday my car got hit in the driver rear quarter panel and bumper. then wednesday teh car has a message saying coolant overheated. Today they told me the coolant got all over the engine and that the timing belt needs to get replaced because of this and that the reason was the thermostat got stuck shut. NOw its about $900 repair.
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Since 2-3 weeks ago indicators show about 105 C degree of oil temp and the same 105 C grade on colant temperature gauge. Isn't it too high? I do not remember values indicated month ago but I suppose were lower (about 90 C Degrees). When I stop on light it comes down to about 100 and little below, but running on 140km/h on motorway - 105 C. On uphill I observed even 115 C degree on oil and coolant. It is too high in my opinion. Could it be cause by sharp winter (-20 to -10 C degree) in Europe? I'm not sure indications will go to normal (~90 C) on spring and summer! My engine is V8...
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1998 ford taurus ohv is overheating and coolant is leaking out of fill cap takes forever for the temp gauge to read anything then after 6 or 7 minutes of driving it shoots up to about midway overheats and can hear serp belt squeeling from getting wet from coolant
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Coolant leaking . Very clean red coolant appearing , a few drops at a time are appearing on the garage floor , but the level in both reservoirs is full. The engine reservoir looks a little too full. I have not added any myself but the dealer serviced it in June. The only thing I can think of , is that they filled it too full .
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What's with this coolant reservoir cap keeps leaking coolant?! I've been having to clean mine every few hundred miles now. The dealer overfilled my coolant but I already drained them out to just below the Max line and it still pushes out coolant. It was much worse when it was overfilled though. Now it's barely visible under the cap. Toyota of all people doesn't know how to design a proper coolant cap? On a 60K car? Can u all check under the hood and see? Cause u might have coolant leaks all over.
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So, the sideways coolant tank in the engine compartment, not the one next to the grill, but the one that is sort of between the air filter box and that shiny metal square
I have always thought that tank was slightly low, but it has a seam just about where the full line is, so I was never sure....finally about three weeks ago, I worked up my courage and put a few ounces of coolant in that tank. THEN it was up to the full line.
So, a few weeks after adding the coolant, I had the water pump recall done. Now the coolant level is back down to where it was before I added....so I am assuming that the correct level is just below that seam that seals the top of the plastic tank to the bottom part of the tank.
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Why a 2004 Yukon Denali would not start. It's leaking coolant. The battery was replaced less than 2 weeks ago and it doesn't jump start. I was told that the water pump is cracked and when you turn the key the lights and radio come on but that's about it.
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So I'm about 10 mins from home today when the coolant low/overheating dash light (the key light) came on and started flashing. I got off the next exit and pulled into a Wal-Mart and notice I had no coolant when I lifted the hood. There was a strong coolant smell so I looked under the car and it was pouring out.
I got some more put in to get me home. I was 5 mins away and by the time I got home it was completely empty again. I can't see the leak looking from the top of the engine. When I look up it's coming out on the passenger side at the back of the firewall.
I filled it back up and just pulled the car into the garage. 7 hours later and the coolant is still full so it only happens when I'm driving. There was no oil present in the coolant leak. I pulled the oil dipstick and it looks normal, no milky color.
I'm having it towed to the local VW dealership tomorrow morning but just wanted to see what everyone's opinion on the issue might be.
Only 33K miles on the Tiguan The engine never ran hot. The needle was right in the middle the entire time. No engine mods other than a Chip, Intake, and Catch Can. I've yet to hear about either of those three mods causing this issue.
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I have an '09 Accent, with 102,000 miles on it, it is in good shape, and current on all its maintenance, however, i am leaking coolant via the radiator cap, and don't know why. It has been replaced twice, once by me, and once at the dealership after a pressure check confirmed i was not leaking anywhere else, ie: into the engine.
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When my 2000 GTI VR6 sits for a week or two the coolant will run low. There are no leaks that I can find. No coolant in the oil. The crack pipe looks dry. Nothing from the thermostat hosing that I can see. The carpet by the heater core is dry. Nothing that I can see. The thing that is funny is I can drive the car with it 100 degrees outside in Georgia and have no problems with the coolant getting low, or any signs of a leak, smoke or smell. The head gasket and every gasket except the oil cooler and oil stand gasket were replaced about two years ago. The heater core was also replaced at the time. I gave the front pulled loose so I can pressure test the system and look more today.
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