Phaeton :: V8 Is Running Hot On A Short Trip
May 24, 2009
My v8 is running hot!! On a short trip I just had this happen to me. Oil temp is at 110 Celsius and the water temp was almost pinned at 120 Celsius. The warning light never came on but I didn't take any chances and limped home with the heater blasting,windows open at 80 kph. Thermostat,water pump??? My mileage just turned 100k so I guess replacing the timing belt might be good...
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2003 PT Cruiser won't start immediately after short trip with a short stop. Always does start after turning the key and holding it to start position. The check engine light is often on and the code is for a cam shaft sensor or resistor sensor. A companion problem is the cruise control. If the check engine light is OFF and I use the cruise control, it works fine for a while and then the check engine light comes on at the same instant the cruise control turns off. Are these 2 issues connected? How much should it cost to have the sensor replaced? The car always stays running once it starts and the problem occurs randomly. What are the consequences of not repairing it?
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I have an issue for the last couple of years. I drive a 2006 hyundai santa fe with 168,000 km's on it. the problem I am having only happens on any cold day and never above zero celcius and when I start the vehicle on a cold day and go for a short trip to the store run in for about 5-10 minutes and I come back out and it won't start, there is lots of power but it wont roll over at all but after trying many times it will eventually start and there is no CEL showing and I have never plugged it in on a cold day and as cold as the canadian winters get here its been down to as low as -40 in the morning and no problems at all, a little roll and a groan and away she goes which is typical in our cold climates.
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Why does the trip computer not reset after every stop, and can it be set this way when required. I've read one explanation abut the Phaeton being a "motorway car", so there is period between stops within which the trip computer does not reset -
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When I fuel my car the the trip data information resets to zero, keeping track of when I last fueled my car, as it should. The problem is that if often resets back to zero even though I have not fueled my car.
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Three things happened with my Phaeton today.
First, when I pulled out of the driveway, there was an "achy" should as I turned the steering wheel. I sound like it coming from under the hood in the area of the steering mechanisms. I am hoping it just might be low power steering fluid?
Second, my engine warning light (amber) came on after going through a car wash. Everything seems to run fine, so I plan to just wait and see if it turns itself off again.
Last - and only as an irritation - I noted that my trip odometer on the front dash display won't reset when I go into the console "trip data" and press reset. Am I doing something wrong?
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I have been noticing that after a trip my phaeton's suspension makes a short loud whoosh sound after i lock it , it usually makes a quiet sound like "sssssssssssss" which lasts about 3 seconds and lowers the suspension , but sometimes , about once 3-4 monts or so makes this loud woosh and lowers rapidly . Is it normal that sometimes the car should release the pressure that fast?
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I just brought my6 Speed Automatic Transmission Phaeton V8 in, because under hard acceleration mostly between 3+4 or 5+6 for a short moment a howling noise with vibration into gear selector appears. I was able to demonstrated it to the Technician, but he said there is not much to do because no Fault code will show up and if he ask VW they will say he needs a reference vehicle to replicate it.
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I have a strange problem with my 2001 Santa Fe GLS that I can't put a finger on.
With my AC running, whenever the condenser fan (the one on the driver side) comes on, the electrical system seems to short out briefly (1/2 sec) - all lights go dimmed, the vehicle bucks - very scary when driving. Sometimes the engine sometimes shut off if idling.
I've changed the AC compressor (twice) and changed the entire condenser fan assembly to no avail.
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My '99 Olds Intrigue was running rough & short on power. Autozone read a trouble code "random misfiring" (PM3000 I think it was). As suggested, I changed the plugs/wires and checked resistance on all three coils with no luck. Here's the real spooky thing: while driving down the street a couple days ago, the pipe between the catalytic converter & muffler separated, scaring me and sending all the children getting off the school bus scrambling for cover. There was no noise or odor prior to the 'drop out' - is there any chance that the one problems (a catalytic malfunction, or small leak in the area for instance) could be related to the misfiring? A mechanic - before the pipe plummeted - had suggested it might be an injector problem or the intake manifold but I figured that an injector problem would trigger a code.
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I have about 160K on this truck, head gasket was repaired about 50k ago by former owner, has run pretty well and trouble free since I purchased it four years ago. Recently replaced plugs, coil packs, wires resulting in improved running/mileage. However, I've been getting a secondary air injection system error code for six months or so, (both before and after 'tune up'), performed snorkel modification to prevent uptake of road splashed water, checked fuses next to battery (good). Up to now I just ignored this sole error code since engine was running well. TPS checks 'good.'
Recently the engine would occasionally run poorly for short duration (@ all RPMs & regardless of throttle) and up to now simply parking overnight or just stopping briefly at a store would seem to reset the poor operation. Unfortunately within the last week it now runs like crap all the time: over revs for upshift, poor power, almost feels as if a cylinder is missing entirely, or timing has gone horribly 'off.' No other error codes, no obvious vacuum leaks. Ran through two bottles of Techron, no change. Does the 'toggling' of the engine running poorly/well offer any clues? Sticky injector?
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I installed an aluminum flatbed on m 2004 F250 5.4 and when I was wiring the lights, I accidentally shorted the marker/running lights to ground. The fuse is not blown (17), the dash lights come on. I have checked for power to the other lamps and there is nothing. I am looking for any information that would lead where to look for the cause.
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So i bought a 2005 Bentley continental gt and I have been told many times by different mechanics and owners that this car is almost like the VW Phaeton. Ever since i got the car, it had this problem so i don't know what caused it and how it can be fixed but basically all of my electronic components such as lights, windows, key fob remote, etc only work when the car's engine is actually turned on and running. As soon as i turn the engine off i hear a click in the trunk area and everything shuts off at the same time. It seems like some kind of safety cut off or something. It happens almost everytime and i have to close the doors manually with the key. Both batteries are brand new.
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My 05 V8 Phaeton radiator cooling fan is not running and hence engine overheats. The AC cooling fan works alright, it comes on when i switch on the AC. I have verified that the actual radiator cooling fan works by plugging it to the ac cooling fan socket. I have checked fuses and all ok. there are no dealers near me. I have also gone through all the cooling fan threads and all of them are for constant running fans, none for a non running fan.
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I've never been a fan of daytime running lights, useless option that shortens the life of the bulbs. My Audi A8L had an option in the MMI that would allow you to turn the DRL's off. Is there a similar option on the 04 Phaeton W12? Or is there a fuse I can pull? Or is VAG-COM the only way (I don't have one yet - not in my immediate budget)?
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In the morning I start my car to warm it up. As it gets closer to winter, it stays dark in the morning. When I start my car, the headlights switch on to basically say this car is running (and empty). How do you start the car but keep the headlights off, or have only parking lights come on?
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I recently got a coolant flush done at the local vw dealer. The engine now runs hot at 200 degrees whereas it was just 160 degrees before. Is this normal for hot weather. Not sure if this is a mistake on the part of the dealer or something conked out opportunistically. A vag com scan shows everything normal. The car has 75 k miles and no other major issues.
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A few days ago I noticed that the front tweeters were producing a low volume buzz whenever the HVAC blower is running.
Let me explain it: The HVAC system is in auto, I am listening to a CD track and the track finishes. At the very short period that it takes for the new track to play I can hear that distinctive buzz coming from the front tweeters. If I now turn off the blower and repeat the same sequence I cannot hear the buzz.
I would say that the buzz frequency is not correlated to the blower speed, but it is difficult to assess because of the increased volume of the blower at high speed.
I have checked the pins and the wiring at the amplifier connectors and they are all sound, so I am wondering if the smoothing capacitor that sits at the plenum chamber fuse box might be the culprit.
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My father and I have an '05 W12 Phaeton with 54k miles. It's developed a peculiar humming noise (very harmonic like a resonance) that is present any time the car is running. My father insists on taking the car to an independent European car repair facility instead of the dealership (much to my displeasure).
The shop first said it was transmission related and advised a fluid change. This did nothing to fix the issue and I'm not even confident that they have the ability to do such a thing correctly without dealer specific tools. Car never left the shop as that obviously did nothing.
Next, they claim there resonance was felt / heard through an oil line. They changed oil and filter thinking bad oil filter (crazy, I know). This also did nothing.
Now, they say that they attempted bypassing the oil cooler and this made the noise go away. The are advising replacement of the oil cooler assembly.
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The issue being that my interior, tail and sometimes dash lights have begun to flicker while the engine is running. It's noticeably worse upon cold start, however, once the engine warms up the flickering improves a bit. Also noteworthy, is just after starting the voltmeter jumps around between 14-14.5 volts. When the car idles down it settles at 14. My left side battery is sitting at 5 years old and when just the electronics are on it hovers around 13 volts. Am I looking at a failing alternator or voltage reg? Or perhaps a loose connection or iffy fuse or ground somewhere. The car does not idle roughly and I am not hearing or smelling anything that isn't normal. I just had both vcg, valve body, and tie rod ends done. I do not have a vag yet, but I was wondering if there is any for of troubleshooting I can do before she goes back in?
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I have a problem with the engine cooling fan (driver side) - is not running. The other fan is working properly. On this arrangement driving on the high way the engine cooling is OK. Driving in the city the oil temperature is richening 215 -220 F (however the water temp. is OK at 200F) and the AC unit is stopping (I am assuming because of that). V8 Phaeton...
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