Phaeton :: V8 Engine Overheating - Warning Signs Comes Up
Dec 13, 2010
My Phaeton (V8) is overheating when the outside temperature is around 0 C (+/-10 C).
It rises all the way to 130 C, the warning signs comes up, it stays there for about a minute and than the fans kick on and the T goes back to normal.
It has been doing that for the last three years intermittently in the spring and fall.
This season it is getting more persistent and it is occurring pretty much every time I use the car (usually not more that once per cycle, a cycle being from the time the engine is started to shut down).
The dealership can't seem to find the problem. The thermostat was replaced at the same time that the water pump and timing belt were replaced and it did not solved the problem.
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On starting today I had an alarm to check coolant. Never had this before - and the expansion tank was dry. No visible signs of loss - Oil seems fine and free from contaminant.. so I guess not the head gasket!
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On a few occasion, usually during cool weather, the engine temperature rises up to 130 C, the coolant overheating warning comes on for a few about a minute or two and then the temperature goes back to normal (90 C.)
The car has 106,000 km. I purchased it last summer from an independent use car dealer. I inquired about the car calling the previous owner. He did mentioned that the only problem he ever experience was that the car overheated on a few occasion during the winter months (cooler weather).
Could it be that the thermostat needs to be replaced?
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I have a V8 engine, and I have been getting the coolant overheating warning come on once in a while.
The engine fans go crazy, and the temperature needle on the small round gauge climbs all the way to red then the coolant overheating warning comes on in dash screen.
This can happen right after I turn the car on, or on occasion, it can happen as I am driving around the city.
I stop, switch the car off, and I turn it back on after a minute, and the car is just fine. So, basically, it doesn't seem like the engine coolant is actually overheating, but the fans and warning systems seem to think that they are. The fans are pretty loud, and its noticeable when they go on, and when this happens, I know that the needle will go all the way up and the warning will go off. I also know that if I turn the car off for a minute, and it will be just fine.
The conditions are random for when this happens. So its not when its particularly hot or cold or anything predictable. Could this just be a sticky thermostat? Is it a bad water pump? Bad battery?
The trouble is that now I am afraid I cant take a real drive. Around the city I can just pull over, but I am afraid to take the car two hours out or something.
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I recently got a coolant flush done at the local vw dealer. The engine now runs hot at 200 degrees whereas it was just 160 degrees before. Is this normal for hot weather. Not sure if this is a mistake on the part of the dealer or something conked out opportunistically. A vag com scan shows everything normal. The car has 75 k miles and no other major issues.
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I keep good maintenance for my car. Just had the 45,000 mile major tune up also. However, the engine overheating light came on the other day - said I should idle until it cooled down. I was just about to park, so I did that and left to do some shopping. When I came back and started the drive home the light came on again and indicated I should stop and turn the engine off. I drove two more blocks and put the car in the garage. I noticed what I thought was some leakage on the garage floor also. Next AM, I had it towed to the dealership since I'd checked the coolant dipstick and it looked EMPTY!. Dealership tested it out and could find nothing wrong - no leaks, no computer faults either. They sent me on my way and neither warning light has come on since. I've kept an eye on the engine temperature gauge and it hovers around 200F - mid range on the gauge. No further problems. Funny thing is, now my A/C seems to operate better!
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This happened all of a sudden today, engine i think is getting overheated. Like in the image below i see the red warning sign and temperature meter is all the way to "H". Well it keeps fluctuating. So i checked coolant oil and found it was empty so re-filled it beyond 'F' and i think it spilled it and was empty again. So this time i refilled the coolant oil up to 'F' and it stayed. But engine won't stop getting hot(i just did a couple miles after the second refill).
There is another problem with the air condition. IT blows cold air sometimes and normal air sometimes. Looks the compressor is turning off(i am really not sure). IS there a chance of any loose connection at the compressor ? If the freon is empty it should blow normal air continuously but it's not doing that. It keeps switching.
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I recently had 2 coils replaces and 4 spark plugs (CODES SHOWING ACCORDING TO GOODYEAR) replaced because the engine light was ON. Now My car intermittently shuts off without warning, but will restart about 1 or 2 minutes later showing CHECK GAS CAP on dashboard. Went back to Goodyear thinking maybe faulty parts. They ask if any lights are on like the check engine light, they tell me if not they don't know, come back if it continues. I thought maybe it's my battery.
The guys at Battery Bills connected a devise to the battery that shows green if it's charged, YELLOW if it needs to be driven more(or issue) RED(not enough power PROBLEM) and I when back to them yesterday and they rechecked...Battery is fully charged. They said the alternator is good also, I'm not too sure they checked.Later after work I fuel up a the Chevron instead of Costco thinking maybe the gas??? My car starts then dies, the battery signal device is showing red.
I get a jump, the second the cables are connected to my battery the device shows green, my car starts right up. Pull out to the traffic light, car shuts off, but restarts. I was told to drive my car at least 30 minutes away from home and back about once a week, to keep battery charged because I live less than 10 minutes away from wherever I drive to....so I DRIVE about 5 minutes in my car starts to stutter(hesitate) twice, but smooths out and I also notice the RPM gauge is showing 0???? NO ERROR LIGHTS or CHECK ENGINE ARE SHOWING ON THE DASHBOARD so I continue home at a lost. My car is a 2010 Accent with 57,100 miles....
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2000 jetta 1.8t ... Yesterday driving home from work (1.5 hr drive and it was 25+ degrees) my car died on the highway just before I made it home. Just lost power all of a sudden with no warning signs before and no overheating. No lights came on I just felt sudden loss of power and pulled over and turned the ignition off and it wouldn't start again. Just makes a high pitched whining noise and won't crank over. I just found out the other day that both O2 sensors need replacing but I can't see that being the reason.
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Our Phaeton has a had a problem with the radar unit and was the electronics where repaired. According to the repair people it now has to we reactivated in the car but we are not managing to achieve this with VCDS. We have tried the following codes:
Code:
Select 01 (Engine Electronics)Security Access -> Function 11 (Codierung II) ACC = Adaptive Cruise ControlCCS = Cruise Control System (Normaler Tempomat) ACC/CCS-Deactivation Code: 16167 (first deactivate, than continue)ACC-Activation Code: 13647 (Possible also 13377 or 30903)CCS-Activation Code: 11463
The codes are accepted by VCDS, but nothing changes.
Also, additionally the warning for engine fault has gone on. Is it possible to disable this warning? We tried code 30903 but it isn't accepted.
[Code] ....
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I'm cruising around and noticed the engine icon warning light go on and stay illuminated. The manual says it is an "exhaust system problem" like an oxygen sensor, and to reduce speed and have the engine checked at a VW service department. I would like to drive back to Evanston (Autobarn) tomorrow but it is about 90 miles from here. I restarted the car in the hopes of it just being a glitch but the light remains lit. Can I do any damage by driving 90 miles. The car seems to still run fine but I am concerned about a breakdown because I have to travel through a few rough areas.
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My 2006 V8 Phaeton has had its yellow engine warning light on for a few weeks. Around the same time, the cooling fan in the engine compartment stays on after I stop the car - even though its Winter here in Montana. So I got the fault code read: P2181. Seems to be linked to cooling system?
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Three things happened with my Phaeton today.
First, when I pulled out of the driveway, there was an "achy" should as I turned the steering wheel. I sound like it coming from under the hood in the area of the steering mechanisms. I am hoping it just might be low power steering fluid?
Second, my engine warning light (amber) came on after going through a car wash. Everything seems to run fine, so I plan to just wait and see if it turns itself off again.
Last - and only as an irritation - I noted that my trip odometer on the front dash display won't reset when I go into the console "trip data" and press reset. Am I doing something wrong?
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2004 prius with 170k. Basically , his engine just doesn't shut off. battery is full. Engine keep running at the stop signs, in park. No engine light on.
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My 2004 v8 with 100,000 miles is running hot. The fluids are all topped off. When I start it up she warms up normally in around 5-10 minutes and the water is 200 but as the oil temp comes up the water goes up as well. After 15 minutes of driving the oil is at 200-220 and the water is 230-245. the fans are coming on but so far no lights or warnings.
Is this the sign of emanate water pump failure? I think the thermostat is OK because for the first 5-10 minutes it runs normally. Putting the heater on get the temp down a little. I am thinking I should drive my truck and order the timing belt, water pump kit! Is it possible that the oil pump or system isn't functioning properly?
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'95 LeSabre, 250K, runs great. Check engine light on randomly and signs point to a computer malfunction causing the light to come on. Is it true that only a dealership can replace the computer, not an indy mechanic? How much for the repair? Will it run ok w/o a new computer?
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Today I received a message on the MFI telling me that the coolant was overheating. My better judgement told me to immediately pull over at the next available spot to turn off the car since the coolant temp gauge was almost at 280. This is well over the 200 where it usually resides. However, the oil temp gauge was right at 200 which is normal.
Perplexed, I called my dealer. The Phaeton Tech was gone for the day so they suggested that I have the car towed in for inspection. Knowing the temperament of the Phaeton (2004 V8), I chose to restart after about 5 minutes. At that point, everything was reading fine & I drove home (about 20 minutes). I ran a VAG-COM scan to see if anything would come up, but nothing did.
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My A/C dropped out, which alerted me to the temp gauge which was high, then to the "overheating" warning in the display.
I parked it to allow it to cool, then drove on with the heat cranked to shed some heat, only to have to park it again. After only a 3.5 hr wait (what a joke), VW's roadside sub-contractor showed up with a flat-bed to bring it to Rod East VW in San Antonio.
I am still waiting for their diagnosis. I did take some time this weekend to test drive a truck and look at some other vehicles, but nothing in this price range is appealing to me.
Despite the grief I go through with this thing, it's still the best value. I've got 52k miles on my loaded '04 V8.
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I just had the timing belt (water pump and thermostat) replaced in my 2004 V8. I drove it home from the dealer (75 miles or so) without incident. Drove it to and from work (4 miles) without incident for a few days.
Last night I drove ~5 miles, idled in a parking lot for ~10 min and then drove another 5 miles and it overheated. Once I shut off the car it would not come back on. I waited for it to drop below 200C and it still didn't start. Electric consumers would come on all was well....but no start.
Car was towed to the local VW dealer who do not have a phaeton tech. After the hour and half it took for the tow truck to arrive and half an hour to tow it....it started up.
I am now thinking about my next move. As I read through everyone's overheating experiences they are mostly
1. Failed thermostat (which one? does the bottom thermostat control water pump operation?)
2. Fan issues
3. Air in the coolant line following a flush (could be, but I drove it home in the cold on the first day with the heater on)
4. False readings due to a bum (upper?) thermostat.
I have a VCDS but have not been able to get out to the car to give it a shot.
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Car was running fine on friday when I left for detroit, it sat in my driveway all weekend, but on the way to work this morning I get a warning light to STOP and my temp gauge is right below 260. It took about 10 miles for the light to come on and the car does NOT overheat while idling. The car is only at 52k and I have not replaced the water pump/timing belt yet.
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My 2013 Elantra twice now has almost overheated. About a month ago i had the software patch related to the cooling fan done. Since then, twice the temp almost hit max and the warning light came on. Both times i had driven it in 80 degree weather with 3 short trips to various stores. Both times the air conditioning seemed to stop working and the gauge started to rise to max. The second time i turned off the car and restarted it and everything returned to normal. If it happens again i will check to see if the cooling fan is on. It seems to me that turning it off and on to fix would be a software glitch. The car has 30000 miles on it.
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