Phaeton :: V8 / 2004 - Engine Temperature Almost In Reds / 115 To 120 C?


Mar 16, 2011

After just about 20min on the highway, the engine temperature has reached 115 C to 120 C that's about 230F to 250F. Also the oil temp was unusual high. After 20min I filled up a little oil and tried to check the coolant water. Unfortunately the time I took to let the cool down the engine was not enough so some coolant water spilled out of the car. So I can't say, whether there was enough water or not. Afterwords, the engine temperature still wasn't doing well at all. The oil temp was OK.

There is currently also coming a strange razing load noise from the front of the engine. The engine is a V8, 2004

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Phaeton :: Lower Oil Temperature Than Usual

My oil temp usually sits around 170-190f . The water temp is always at 200. This past week, I took a 3000km trip to Maine. Great scenery!!!! The water temp would drop to 170 from time to time, Looking at a thermostat change soon, but today it pegged 200f all day, 5hr drive at highway speeds but the oil temp only rose to 150-155. Is there a thermostat in the oil cooler system?

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Since 2-3 weeks ago indicators show about 105 C degree of oil temp and the same 105 C grade on colant temperature gauge. Isn't it too high? I do not remember values indicated month ago but I suppose were lower (about 90 C Degrees). When I stop on light it comes down to about 100 and little below, but running on 140km/h on motorway - 105 C. On uphill I observed even 115 C degree on oil and coolant. It is too high in my opinion. Could it be cause by sharp winter (-20 to -10 C degree) in Europe? I'm not sure indications will go to normal (~90 C) on spring and summer! My engine is V8...

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On the passenger side the ratio of heat to settings is slightly different and 1.5 is about right. Is there any adjustment / calibration possible between adjustment setting and actual seat temperature?

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A 5 mile high speed uphill run brought the oil temp to about 190 degrees, but it soon settled to 180 once I slowed to 80mph.

So ambient temp is about 15 degrees Fahrenheit; however, that really shouldn't make a difference with a water cooled/thermostat engine, correct?

My main concern is that lower oil operating temperatures wont allow condensation to boil off.

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This car has operated flawlessly for me and I think a visit to the VW service department is in order prior to the warranty expiration just to have a good look at all the possible issues that might pop up! Even though I have a CPO for another 2 years, I'd prefer not to have to find out what isn't covered in a pinch.

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I have checked the two block connectors which the wires from the parking sensors and temperature sensors go in to and that seems properly connected. Is there another connector somewhere or is there a fuse that protects these somewhere as there isn't a fuse described in the manual as being related to these?

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Coolant is filled everything is okay. Only sometimes its really low or when the engine almost hit the redzone its a bit empty. No leaks nothing. Now my vds says 2 errors :

Fan 1 blocked
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My check engine light came on over the weekend. It was not blinking so I am hoping for just a sensor fault or some other inexpensive issue. I am trying to remain hopeful but after having to replace 2 coils and both catalytic converters about 40K miles ago I am really nervous...

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I restated the engine and all seemed fine. Until another few miles down the road To my driveway where it again cut out.

As it stands now it will start but cuts out after a minute or so and will not re start unless I take the key out and keep trying.

I had the car scanned by a mobile mechanic who told me my steering column was the only thing that scanned up. Which made sense because a few days ago an airbag warning came up and stayed up.

I have read up a bit about the steering column on the passats which have the exact same symptoms of cutting out the engine. Could this be the same with the phaeton?

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I've been reading up on the possibility of it being a bad valve lifter. I don't know much about them and was hoping to get some advice here before I go about asking my dealership to diagnose the sound. I found this random article through google vaguely talking about replacing the lifter. The person says its "reasonable and inexpensive".

I also stumbled across this thread here describing what sounds similar. Although the thread provides no closure it seems towards the end people are hinting that the engine needs to be pulled? This is contradictory to the first source I found. My question is, say it was a bad lifter, whats the extent of work required to fix it? The Parts seem to be really cheap if I'm looking at the correct stuff?

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