Car now unexpectedly jumps to high fan speed when first started. Doenst matter what the temp is set to or if it was previsouly on Auto or Manual when last shut off. Did I change some custom setting? or has a gremlin appeared after so many years and care free miles? (05, 78K)
Its not a big deal but rather is annoying to get in and hear that immediate rush before I can turn the dial down.
When I apply the brakes moderately at speeds between 60 mph and 80 mph, the brakes pulses and the car shakes. If I press harder, the intensity gets worse shortly and then disappears the harder I press. The front steering wheel does not shake so I believe it is the rear brake or wheels. This problem started after I changed the rear VW brakes rotors and rear VW pads and changed all four wheels with remanufactured VW Phaeton wheels. The issue must be with the wheels,brakes, or lug nuts. The tires have not been changed but they are fairly new from what I can tell. The front rotor and pads was changed by the prior owner and I've never had issue with them, they are fairly new and look to be OEM.
Prior to reinstalling the new wheels, I cleaned the rust off of the front rotor surface that makes contact with the wheel and applied high temperature paint. One of the wheels I had a run in the paint (and there is no way I can make the paint 100% the same thickness) so perhaps this has slightly misaligned the front wheels to the rotors.
When I did the brake job, I cleaned the driver side rear hub of surface rust prior to installation of the rotor. I did not clean the hub on the rear passenger side because the hub and wheel bearing was changed a few months prior. I did snap the plastic for the speed sensor for the abs on the rear passenger side. I epoxied the plastic back together and have no ABS errors when the car is scanned. Everything was torqued per VW recommendations. I also checked the calibers sliding mechanism (for left to right movement if rotor slightly warped or out of true) and they moved freely and was not locked up. The only part of the job that was not 100% by the book is I used a hand made tool to push the pistons in on the calipers so I could install the pads (I had to push and turn the piston roughly at the same time but was not 100% at the same time because the tool was hand made).
I've had the wheels professionally rebalanced balanced at a tire shop with a fairly modern balancing machine (digital computer flat screen readout). Originally the wheels was balanced with an older balancing machine and when they rebalanced it it was noted the wheels was way out of balance. I had a bad steering wheel shake and the car vibrated significantly prior to the new balance. The shaking improved greatly with the rebalancing but I could still feel a subdued shake in the seat of my pants (steering wheel shake is gone). Yesterday, I retorqued all of the lug nuts and found the driver side rear and passenger side front had one loose lug nut. Also it appeared that the lug nuts may have been installed with an impact driver and probably not torqued because some were very tight. I used a dial gauge to check both the rear tires and I have about 15-20 thousands of movement in each wheel when rocked side to side and top to bottom. Prior to tightening the lug nut on the driver rear, I had 100 thousands of side to side movement. Car now runs much smoother (maybe not as good with the original wheels and brakes but pretty good) after retorquing all the lug nuts, but the same 60-80 mph pulsing / shaking happens when apply the brakes at speed, perhaps even worse.
I've also checked the rear rotor and wheel runout with the dial gauge and I didn't have anything over 4 thousands on the rotor or wheel when rotated. My jig for the dial gauge was not the best since it was hand made and was attached to the ground instead of the car, so any dial gauge measurements could be off, but I would think they tolerances would be even better if I had a proper jig mounted to the car (not floor). The only thing that I haven't replaced is the lug nuts. Tightening them did seam to change the brake pulse behavior for the worse but did make the car run smoother. Could it be possible that the lug nuts are stretched and this is producing the behavior I'm seeing? I've head the ABS can cause a shake if the speed sensor is damaged.
Ive had my new Phaeton just over three weeks and have ha to take it back to the dealer with a slight wheel wobble at high speed, I gather the geometry on these is quite complex and the alignment is usually done on all four wheels. Interestingly however the dealer diagnosis is for four new tyres, obviously this is under warranty, but it seems strange to have to fit four new tyres on a brand new car!
View 6 Replies1998 Explorer 4L 6Cyl 4WD 5 Speed Auto
This engine unexpectedly surges from idle up to as much as 3 or 4 thousand RPM. It can be frightening. The IAC valve was buzzing loudly so we changed it out a couple of times with wreckers parts. With the third replacement valve in there, it hasn't surged yet but we are very leery to drive it for fear of uncontrolled acceleration while in heavy traffic. Is this a known problem or recall with these vehicles. I think it is ridiculous that the design would allow such a dangerous condition!
After I have used my Phaeton for a few miles it seems like the transmission is jumping - like when the older cars were low on transmission fluid. I thought the Phaeton had a closed transmission system and fluid can not be added. I have 124,000 miles on the car.
View 1 RepliesFor A while my 04 Phaeton would not start on first try, turn off then it starts on second try. Lately its dwindled to 3rd or 4th try. Now dead, no start at all. Is it just the batteries most likely? with the key on, the voltage is down at about 11.5 volts. When it would start it would jump right up to about 13.5.
View 8 RepliesI just got my Golf 7 (1.4 TSI 122PS 7Speed Dry DSG). I love the car but I have an issue making my driving a lot more stressful in tight traffic and parking. I just wanted to ask if this is an issue specific to my car or something happens to all Golfs.
When trying to take off with a very little throttle pressure, car starts to pull away very slowly at the beginning and then it jumps forward in a much higher speed even though I do not increase the throttle pressure. It even happens if I lift my foot from the throttle before jump happens. Because of this I cannot make very slow maneuvers because I cannot simply go very slowly and consistently. I am a complete rookie when it comes to cars but it feels like turbo coming into play after a certain engine rpm causing this. For the record this happens both in D or R.
I know I can creep using the brake but I heard that is very bad for dsg so I am trying not to do that. Also I cannot do that while Auto hold is on and I don't want to turn it off since it is a very handy feature in stop & go traffic which is usual in where I live. Also my steering wheel does not center itself automatically so I am doing it manually.
I was driving around town and I kept noticing my aftermarket radio would shut down and turn back on when I put my foot to the floor, then I noticed that my voltage gauge would shoot to the H when I hit around 3000 rpm and all the dash light's and head lights get brighter but once I let off the throttle it goes right back down. I've been taking it easy lately and now around 4000 rpm it will shoot up now. But I just replaced the voltage regulator I checked the battery and cables they don't seem to be damaged and I already replaced the belt. What could cause this?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 F-150 SCrew Lariat 4X4 with 80K miles. Over the past month or so, every once in awhile there would be a loud metallic "clacking" sound (kind of like sticking a peice of aluminum in a bike's spokes) that would start at higher speeds and would turn into a low pitched whirring gear sound as I slowed down and eventually there would be a thud followed by a sensation of running over a small bump and the noise would be gone. Kind of confusing I know, but that is the best way to describe it. My gut feeling is a wheel bearing or transmission problem....
View 9 RepliesI am having overheating problems at high speed/high rpm/under load. The only codes ive gotten are EGR dpfe (0401). Truck is 99 f250 with the 6.8 new egr valve, dpfe, new coolant, new thermo, new sensor under manifold. I blew 90 lbs air pressure thru the egr lines, big and small, they were clear.
So whats left? I never hear my fan clutch......should I? I've had other trucks and the fan roared when first started for a few seconds, and then again when you were hot...they really roared.
Is it possible for the egr port where it goes into the throttle body to be plugged? guess I should've checked that when I had the egr off. Would an aux. fan be a waste of time?
This is pulling a 3500 lb camper trailer up moderate hills.
Is there something I can do about this? Is it normal for it to come on every time I start the car. Even if I turn it off before I turn off the car it always turns onto 72 degrees and the front vents come up. I tried to change to another profile , but that does not work. There must be a setting that I miss to have it totally shut off.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1995 Chevy S10 with a ghost. The vehicle shuts off unexpectedly and will crank but not restart. It has been in the shop now for over 2 weeks with no sign of getting fixed. The Crankshaft sensor has been replaced, but this did not fix the problem.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2012 VW Passat 52k miles.
The Air Bag light went off unexpectedly. I bought the car new, no accidents. I know there is a clock spring recall related to the Air Bag on the car, so I took it in today to get that done and get the Air Bag light inspected.
My beloved 2005 Phaeton has started beeping when turned off both with and without the security system engaged. This has never happened before.
View 1 RepliesVW has issued a TB (technical bulletin) with information about the camshaft on the 4.2 liter V8 engine. The gist of the TB is as follows:
The camshaft adjustment is hydraulically actuated and controlled by the engine oil pressure. If the vehicle has been sitting, with the engine turned off for a period of time, the oil accumulation inside the camshaft adjusters partially bleeds off and the oil flows back into the oil sump.
To ensure an efficient camshaft adjustment after an engine cold start, the oil pressure inside the camshaft adjusters must be built up as quickly as possible. During this time a slight rattle or knocking noise may be audible. This noise is normal at engine start and will last until the oil pressure is fully reinstated.
I had the transmission replaced last fall under warranty. the VW rebuilt unit was 09L 300 035 PX. When unit was replaced the dealer used G 060 162 A2 as the fluid. Was that the right oil? Shouldn't they have used the upgraded G 055162 A2 and the new reflash? The shudder has started to return and I am off of warranty.
View 15 RepliesToday, while about to take off after stopping at a traffic light my engine unexpectedly died. I noticed that the "red battery warning signal" (something to do with the electrical systems) lit up at this time.
I restarted the engine without trouble but since then I have noticed that the car feels a bit more jerky to drive and is not as stable at idle.
Upon leaving the car, I also noticed a burning smell coming from somewhere in the rear. The weather here is fairly cool so I would rule out high temperatures as the cause of the problem.
I have read the lengthy thread below about people having hiccup issues with their R, but I think it is time to start a new one as that is very confusing and still inconclusive.
From what I have read, there seem to be two possible problems to why engines unexpectedly die or hiccup. 1. Faulty stock ECU, or 2. Faulty fuel pump and canister, or both.
I'd like to know whether people who have similar experiences, who have since
A) reflashed their ECU with an aftermarket one, or
B) installed a new fuel tank/pump from VW - have solved this problem.
My R only has 100 miles on it, and it is very disappointing to know that it is not running as it should.
I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado 1500 extended cab. Two nights in less than a week, my horn has went off in alarm mode. Is there another reason for this other than an attempted jimmying of the lock? I live in a decent neighborhood with lots of pole lighting. Someone told me the keyfob battery was dying but I don't have the fob.
View 1 RepliesI think his problem in today's show is the fuel tank.. It needs to be cleaned. When I was in college, I drove a 1954 Austin Healey 100-4. I was young like the fellow calling in today. The car would unexpectedly stop for no reason but it would slow down the same way as the MGTD just before it would stop. I would let the car sit for 10 minutes and it would restart without issue..drive for an hour..drive for several days till it would happen again... Rust inside the fuel tank is the deal..the pick up is getting clogged.
View 1 Replies2010 Prius owner here. Both low beams stopped working unexpectedly last night. High beams still work, but when I switch to low beams, I just get the park lights.
View 3 RepliesMy lower beams started to flicker, red as hell, too. Can I change them myself? I've got a 2004 V8 Bi Xenon car. Is it possible to be serviced without removing the front bumper? If not, does a manual exist on how to remove that damn bumper and the lamp module to get access to those lower beams?
View 1 Replies