Phaeton :: Trunk Lights Permanently Illuminated
Jul 9, 2015
Following a storm last week, my car had a completely discharged convenience battery. The carpet in the driver's (RHS) footwell was soaked, and I vacuumed out about a pint of water. The right front sunroof drain was blocked, so I massaged the duckbill valve and got this working again. The carpet is now completely dried out.
I fully recharged the battery using a mains charger, but two days later it was flat again. I ran a VCDS scan, found and reset lots of fault codes for low battery. I then discovered that the trunk lights were not turning off when the trunk lid closed, hence the battery discharge. The measuring block for trunk lights shows 0% however. The power trunk lid operates correctly from all switches and the remote.
All other vehicle functions seem to be working OK. I have removed the fuse for the trunk lights temporarily, but obviously would like to get them working properly again.
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Following a storm last week, my car had a completely discharged convenience battery. The carpet in the driver's (RHS) footwell was soaked, and I vacuumed out about a pint of water. The right front sunroof drain was blocked, so I massaged the duckbill valve and got this working again. The carpet is now completely dried out.
I fully recharged the battery using a mains charger, but two days later it was flat again. I ran a VCDS scan, found and reset lots of fault codes for low battery. I then discovered that the trunk lights were not turning off when the trunk lid closed, hence the battery discharge. The measuring block for trunk lights shows 0% however. The power trunk lid operates correctly from all switches and the remote.
All other vehicle functions seem to be working OK. I have removed the fuse for the trunk lights temporarily, but obviously would like to get them working properly again.
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Can I have VW turn off the TPS system and not have to run the "TPS" on my car?
Or, is this something I can do?
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The other night after starting the car I noticed that the dashboard was not illuminated. When I moved the headlight switch to the "headlight" setting from the "automatic" setting--the dashboard lights went on.
When I moved the switch back to automatic, the dashboard lights went off again. Adjusting the intensity using the appropriate switches did nothing. An hour later everything worked normally once again.
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I recently came to notice that 3 of my 4 brake lights were permanently stuck on with the inner passenger's side light working normally. I removed the panel under the driver seat and found that a piece attached to the pedal arm that pushes in the brake light switch had broken. I replaced the broken piece and now all the brake lights except for the inner passenger's side light function normally, which no longer works at all when pushing the brake pedal*. Some additional info: When using the key fob to lock/unlock the doors, all the lights function normally.
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Currently my parents, who borrowed my phaeton, are stranded with an EPC light, no crank (no attempt to crank) and apparently no other symptoms. They are ~100 miles from a VW dealer.
Phaeton : 2004 V8, ~80K miles, regularly serviced
Car has been stored for a few months and rarely driven (bad gas?). The transmission needs to have software updates/fluid change (has the shuttering issue)
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Quick question regarding the daytime running lamps. It appears there is no difference when the DRL's are on or when the front headlamps are illuminated at night. Even if I turn the switch to off, and the DRL's are on, it looks no different then when the headlights are on. Is this normal? Are the DRL's just the headlamps turned on or are they normally the small incandescent light as found on lesser VW's?
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I recently purchased a 2001 Prius from a state fleet auction. The car has 121,000 miles and was in the non-running part of the auction. It had been sitting at least four months. I decided to give it a go since it looked to be in decent condition.
It did not start because of a dead 12v battery. I bought a replacement battery, but it still did not start. The screen showed ~ 1/8 hybrid battery. The warning lights illuminated and it was never ready. I plugged in my code scanner and a P3030 code came up.
I got it towed home and started working on it. The P3030 code signifies a high voltage line snapped .
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Are your mirror controls illuminated when you turn the lights on?
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I was driving home and the dash lights went out. I checked all of the fuses and they all check good.
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Driving home early from work today, moments after leaving the parking lot the VSC warning light illuminated. Followed by ABS and Power steering lights a few seconds later.
Car drove normally. Systems seemed healthy.
I quickly pulled over, took this picture, and then power cycled the car. The warning lights turned [off] and stayed off for remainder of drive home (~30 min).
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A few days ago I noticed when I started the car that both the HV/EV and ECO mode lights were illuminated. What does that mean?
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Ok so first the battery light came on then all the other lights on the dash came on, ended up dying and we replaced the battery but the abs, esc break light and battery light still are on the dashboard. Also I can use the shift release to drive the car but other then that it is stuck in park. I was reading that the car has a atm but I don't know where its located.
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I finally found the Prius I wanted. It's used. 2006. Gen II 220k miles. Bought at auction almost completely dead and no gas. After adding gas and driving so the main battery charges. It starts up great however the dash looks a little scary with nearly every warning light on.
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The ABS no longer working lights like brakes, abs, vsc all illuminated on the dashboard, diagnosed and found out the accumulator has gone bad though, the pump is ok, need a new accumulator to move the suv from its present location to a safe place.
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I have one problem, my trunk does not close, I close but it is not closed, the system does not close and the door is open.
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Today I tried to open the trunk from the Remote and the Door switch, and it will not pop up, after pressing the button (remote or door) you will hear the click from the switch in the trunk itself, but nothing else, before (when the trunk was working) after the click it will pop up 5 mm that way I can slide my fingers under and lift it.
Dealer said the latch is not pushing the trunk up and they are going to replace it ? After checking the parts manual I can see there are two types of latch, with Hydraulic with Closing assist (P/N: 3D5 827 302 J) and No Closing Assist, that means that's the part they are going to change, the one with Closing Assist ?
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Just got back from the store and the trunk will not close. Goes about 2/3 the way and stops. On inspection it seems the cable enclosure from the body to the trunk lid is not retracting(?) properly and causing the pinch protection to kick in as the cable appears to be very rigid.
Two questions: Could this be due to cold weather (less than 20F)?
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Ran obd I I tool on my fiance's 2011 Camry. Threw codes C0365, C1330, and C1445. cleared the codes and the only one that is recurring is the C1330. ABS and traction control lights are illuminated on the dash.
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I have a 1998 Passat 4cyl turbo. Recently the ICM module on the air box went out when I had No Fire on 2nd cyl from the front. Replaced it with a MPGauto part for $63. It fixed the problem but, I noticed that now the PRND321 lights are luminated all the time and downshifts hard into 1st gear. Also should I be concerned that I need another catalytic converter b/c I drove another 40 miles with it missing and it (CC) was very hot. Do they break down inside? The car runs great. Is my problem related to this china part not having a special VW code or can the car be reset?
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This afternoon, after driving about 150 miles, I came home and shut off my 2001 Prius. It was sitting for about 20 minutes before I turned it back on to drive off. Almost immediately, the hybrid warning light came on on the MFD, the red exclamation mark light illuminated, as well as the check engine light, and the motor shut off. I popped the hood, and could hear a high pitched squeal coming from near the inverter. I called my dealer to ask the service department what I should do, and they just told me to bring it in and they will take a look at it. I live over an hour away, so I don't want to bring it there if I can avoid it. I then shut it off and let it sit for a few hours.
After reading about the possibility of the auxiliary battery being bad, I went and turned the Prius on, and then shut it off several times to reset the hybrid warning light (I had to do so in order to access the aux battery information through the MFD). It turned on without incident, and shut off fine, and after being reset the hybrid warning light shut off, as well as the red triangle light. Then, I went through the process of pulling up the battery voltage information through the MFD.
With the car off, and the lights and fans off, the battery voltage read about 10.0-10.5 V. With the lights and fan on, the voltage dropped to about 9.5 V. After getting those readings, I drove it down the road a little ways, just going about 20 mph. It seemed to work fine. The check engine light is still illuminated. With the motor running, the voltage reading was 13.2 V, and then when I got back from my test drive and shut it off, the voltage hovered at 10.6 V with the lights and fan on.
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