Phaeton w12 ... I put new inner and outter tie rods on and new dust boots (the accordion style ones).
I am getting popping noises when I turn from the boot. It's been going on for a couple months now. I tried swapping left to right, greasing them etc nothing works ...
2007 corolla 64K original factory calipers. I bought pads and rotors today to replace my front brakes. When I removed the right caliper I noticed that the boot was danaged ( about 1" long tear ). but does not leak. I put the pads and rotors on anyways.What would be the normal repair for this Leave it, replace thr boot, replace the whole caliper or replace both calipers. This also has ABS. I have never bleed ABS brakes before. What is the best way for a DIYer to bleed this type of brakes.
View 9 RepliesMy Phaeton is approaching its 10th day at VW for a number of issues. Only the week before it was serviced and I was told everything was fine. At the service I asked them to look at the power boot and was told it was reset and working....
I took the car back as there was still a noise from the rear side under the car, sometimes when park was engaged the car did not sense it unless you fiddled with the lever whilst in park, the clock was slow and finally the boot would not open properly.
Specifically the boot issue was, When using either the button on the remote or the drivers boot release the boot tried to open around an inch and then immediately shut again. The only way to open it was to press open and then gently force it open. After fiddling for a while I realised that pressing the unlock then pressing the VW logo twice opened it sometimes! But not always.
Anyway VW cannot work out the problem and apparently their technical support has advised them to change the struts! I cant see how this is the issue .
For the last few thousand miles my 99.5 jetta has been making a popping noise (many pops, not just one) only when turning right under acceleration. (No noise when coasting or decelerating in gear and turning right, no noise under any circumstances). no pulsing in the brakes, and the car appears aligned well as it tracks nicely.
The noise is rotational, the faster you go, the faster the pops happen (again, it will make many popping noises, not just one). Probably once per revolution on the tires, not entirely sure. And it is, with as much certainty as i can have, coming from the front passenger side of the car.
I took it into the mechanic twice, first time they couldn't hear it and sent it back. Second time they said it was likely the CV joint so replaced both on the passenger side.
I have to admit that I didnt notice the noise for about 300 miled after that service, and I did try to get it ot happen. but its back now.
All boots and ball joints look ok and no grease has slung out. I am thinking it might be a wheel bearing at the extremely early stages of going.
Right now i am on a "wait and see if it gets worse " course. For the last 1500 or so miles it has not seemed to have changed.
On my xl-7 upon turning left it makes a poppping noise, its real bad at complete stops,its almost like a cv axle noise. Ive taken it to the dealer at least 8 times and they replaced struts , but it still makes this noise.I also called the main Suzuki customer office and complained. They told me its just one of the characteristics of the new Xl7.
View 4 RepliesI am a owner of a 2012 Toyota Camry LE with 18,000 miles on it. I am having a issue when I go over any bumps, or turning, I hear a popping noise coming from the right rear.
View 4 RepliesSo i just got my car back from the dealership today. they claimed my poping/clicking noise was due to my oil catch not being secure. so they secured it for me and it doesn't move at all now and I still hear the popping/clicking noise when slowing down or speeding up abruptly and when backing out of parking spots.
I have torqued all the subframe bolts and done the subframe washer and also retorqued all the suspension bolts for the struts and the strut mounts and bearings are brand new. It almost sounds like a cv joint or some sort of ball joint popping. They said they checked the cv joint and there is no play and looks fine .
It also quiets down when its wet out but when its hot and dry its very loud and bystanders can hear the noise.
I recently started hearing a pop/knocking noise when I'm turning at low speeds (0-10mp) only. I've already done a search but most of what I found dealt with installing new springs and/or coilovers. The thing is, I only started hearing it a day or two after I installed my rear sway bar. I've gone under a couple if times to readjust the sway and put it back on thinking I might have torqued it too tight or too loose. After I did that, the noise would go away for about a few days but then it comes back again?
View 1 RepliesI've owned my 14.5 camry se 4 cyl since may and a few weeks into owning it i noticed a pop/clunk coming from the front passenger side while reversing and turning the wheel. So, finally got some free time to take it into the dealer today and dropped it off. Also, when letting off the brakes you can hear like a creaking noise, almost like the brakes are metal to metal but it only happens LETTING OFF the brakes?
My service advisor says supposedly the "creaking" noise when letting off the brakes is normal. I told him i really don't believe that lol and asked to test drive another new camry on the lot which is being arranged for tomorrow. In the meantime he says they're gonna look at it either way.
ok I have a 07 civic with 80k, which I bought used, it seems when i turn the wheel more so to the left at slow speeds like parking or pulling out etc I hear a popping and or clicking noise from the front end it doesnt always happen, but happens enough I took it to my dealer to have everthing checked before a rd trip they told me the boots and all are fine but the joins could be binding, but that its safe to drive and doesnt need to be replaced.
View 7 RepliesHear a small pop in the cab when I am turning left pulled left wheel everything looks fine. Ball mount maybe, I don't want to tear into it at this point.
View 5 RepliesHave a 2010 Corolla, 42k miles, from a dead stop, turn left under power with wheel about 90% of one full turn, get a clunking popping clicking noise from the front end -- I cannot tell if from the left or right side -- I've been in the back seat too, and cannot determine if the noise is coming from the left or right side up front. I've had the car since 34k miles, has been making this sound ever since, not sure if its gotten worse, if it has, maybe just a little.
No noise if turning while NOT under power (coasting). No noise if turning to the right. No noise while driving in a straight line or veering left at a higher speed. Also, I tried to recreate this noise from a dead stop, turning going in reverse, both left and right, and no noise ever.
If in a parking lot, from a dead start, turn wheel left almost one full turn, accelerating slowly I can get the car to make this sound continuously (until I start going too fast beyond my comfort zone).
Have looked under car jacked up several times, nothing obvious. CV axles have minimal play and the boots are in great shape. Suspension parts appear ok.
My gut tells me could be a CV axle, but not certain, and I don't know which side..... something else that could cause this ?
Okay I have a 2006 Hyundai Elantra with 56,000 miles. Whenever I have been driving for a while in town and and the car is heated up, I get a clicking/popping noise coming from the front end whenever I reverse, turn the wheel, and then brake.
I've been testing it more but it won't always click or pop when i turn the wheel, but when I push the pedal down to stop it clicks and pops a lot. And then as I turn the wheel back without being on the brake pedal it'll click a little bit more.
Normally this would sound like a suspension problem but the fact that I have to push the pedal down to "activate" the sound has me baffled. And the weird thing is, is sometimes when I'm turning into a parking spot at low speeds it will click just a little bit..
It almost feels like the brake lines are getting tangled up and making sounds. I know that's not the case but I'm trying to describe the sound. It's not the normal pop you would get when a tie rod is going out. It doesn't really sound like its metal on metal. And it doesn't constantly click while reversing or turning like it would if it were the CV axle.
The car stops just fine though.. I'd even say the brakes are pretty touchy. The other issue I have with brake sounds is coming from the back. When I'm slowing down ... at around 15 mph it will click in the back every rotation. It has to be coming from the drum brakes. That doesn't concern me so much as it probably is time for new pads or something in the hardware needs tweaking.
I have an 08 F-150 5.4. When sitting still or moving, and turning the steering wheel to the right and only the right past center, there is a popping type noise somewhat like a screw driver down a washboard (for those who'll know what that is). I replaced the ball joints because I saw a slight amount of play, but the noise is still there.
View 12 RepliesMore times than not now, when making a sharp left turn and sometimes a left turn in general, a loud popping/clanking/knocking noise comes from the rear of my truck. I can feel it in the steering when it's about to do it. The steering wheel will become stiff when turning left and when I straighten up it will pull to the right (just got the truck aligned so I don't think that's a problem). Rear left tire will spin like its struggling to spin. After all that I can make a hard turn right and "pop" everything will seem to go back to normal. 1999 Silverado Z71 5.3l ....
View 5 RepliesWhile in the locked position, the steering wheel was purposely jerked hard to disable the mechanism on a 1996 Ranger. Now the truck will not steer easily or smoothly and a popping noise is evident when turning. I'm not concerned about having the wheel lock, but would like to be able to return driveability to normal.
The same guy who caused this damage also damaged the ignition. No key is needed to turn the switch now.
I'm lost as to how the steering locking mechanism works and wondering if I need to tear apart the column or if maybe there is a locking pin accessible that needs to be removed to regain driveability.
For a couple of weeks now, my boot keeps re-opening when I close it while the car is locked.
My usual workaround is to unlock the car, close the boot and only then, lock the car. However, yesterday evening, this did not work, i.e. I closed the boot then locked the car, but as the car locked, the boot decided to open on its own...
Tried it several times, and ended up leaving the car open (we were invited for dinner at friends of ours, so leaving the car unlocked was not problematic) as I preferred this to leaving the boot open...
Having intermittent power boot problem .. and now i cant get the boot open at all!!!! nothing happens with internal switch, key fob, external switch and i cant even open it manually with the key..
View 3 RepliesJust noticed something strange. Haven't opened the boot for a few days and We have had some really heavy rain but today, when I did open the boot water, poured out between the carpet on the inside of the boot and the metal. Has water in the actual boot or is there some drain holes I need to check.
View 7 RepliesJust picked up my car from the VW Centre, I had the Wiring Harness for Trunk Lid replaced. Now the lights within the the boot and the light in the Trunk Close button are not working.
Could this be a fuse? if so which one, left my manual in UK and I am abroad at the moment. Or could this mean a mistake has been made whilst installing the new wiring?
Twice this past fortnight I've come down in the morning to find my boot open while the car is on the drive, and as I normally store around 600 worth of golf kit in there this obviously isn't ideal !
Either someone else's transmissions are opening it or, more likely, I'm accidently pushing the button as I fumble around trying to get two small kids and associated baggage through the front door.
Is there any way of disabling the key fob boot release without disabling the switch function of the VW sign on the boot ? I'm considering opening up the remote and removing the switch unless can think of a better solution ?