Phaeton :: Thermostat Heating Control Circuit Open, Message Came On
Feb 22, 2014
My Phaeton has been running perfect since I got it. Yesterday I took it to the dealership to get fluids topped off and a wash. We have had a break in the weather the last couple of days, so I took my w12 on 465 and got it up to 120 before I chickened out. It continued to ride perfectly. This morning when I went out to start my honey do list the service engine soon light was on, it is still running perfect, but when I stopped by local auto store and had them pull the code it says "thermostat heating control circuit open". My middle temp stays at 200, when sitting still the left temp gauge goes almost to 200 however when driving it falls to under 160.
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I bought a 2002 Excursion 2wd V10 at an auction with 105,000 miles. I've been working through the little problems and I'm down to one last small item.
The cruise control will not work. I found a thread to diagnose the problem. My diagnosis is:
After doing the self test I received: 3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
What does this represent and what shall I do to correct it?
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Where to decipher engine codes? I pulled a P0001 Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit Open code .
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My scanner reads P0001 Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit Open. My truck shuts down without warning, runs great otherwise. I've changed 2 grey CPS units and now have the Black IH one installed. What the Fuel Volume Reg.is? Is it the IPR on the HPOP?F250SD 7.3 225,000 miles.
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I have an emissions test coming up. I have 3 P codes that I'd like to eliminate before then. I don't want to "fix" the issues they are telling me about. Just make the codes go away. I know why they're there I just need to get rid of them.
What I have coming up is:
P0475 Exhaust Pressure Circuit Valve (result of EBPV delete)
P0541 Intake air heater A circuit low (result of aih delete)
P0640 Intake air heater control circuit (also result of aih delete)
What resistors I'll need and where to put them in?
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The check engine light came on yesterday. 2004 with 115K. Auto Zone read the codes and they are as follows:
Definition:
Idle Air Control Valve control circuit.
Probable Cause:
Open or short circuit condition.
Poor Electrical Connection
Failed IAC motor
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My check engine light has came on and I received these error codes
PO441 : Evaporative emissions control system incorrect purge flow.
PO 455 : Evaporative emissions control system pressure leak-large leak.
PO 446 : Evaporative emissions control system vent control circuit fault.
Also only my driver side fan is working, may be separate issue?
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Today we have 25F in MN and after turning on the car I noticed some weird sounds from the AC/Heating fan inside the car, like turning on and off, then I looked at the temperature in the dashboard (small display behind the steering wheel) and it was 136F. Tried to manually force the heating system, no way, 100% dead, no warm air. As a last resort I connected the VAD tool and got the following errors:
08 AC/Heating Electronics
Climatronic D1 1132
DTCs: 18
P/N: 3D0 907 040 G
Coding: 0000002. WSC: 0000
01273 110
Fresh Air Blower - V2: faulty [static]
[Code].......
Clearly seems to be something big related to the heating system, maybe the controller died ?
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cylinder and the thermostat seems to be stuck partial open. Gauge does not reach what was normal operating level before. Has not thrown P 0128 code yet. I was thinking changing the thermostat. When checking on replacement it shows 2 gaskets, one paper or rubber gasket with holes and an one o ring. Is this correct and if so where does each go when installed. Looking at the housing it does not look to be to hard a job.
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It's pretty cold these day where I live (about 2 weeks of -20C and lower). I know that winter can affect gas mileage but right now, I'm averaging about 13l/km (18mpg). I believe this is not normal.
I just bought the car and I noticed that the engine temp looks low to me (see pic attached). Is it supposed to run this cool? I also went to the garage and he checked with a obd2 scanner and nothing was wrong. Could a stuck thermostat be the cause of my poor gas mileage?
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I was driving for work in the Coachella Valley (Palm Springs) today - it was 109 degrees. I hop in the car after a work visit, the vent covers open, but nothing comes out. The fan is blowing full blast - but no air was coming out of any vents. I tried manual mode, foot, defrost, off, etc. to no effect. I reset the climate system, reset all, no dice. Soon, the fan turned off, paused a couple seconds, then turned back on again and tried again to the safe effect. I turned off the ignition and turned it back on. Nothing. Drove to my next stop and parked. I came out, started up again - this time air comes out of the vents, but it's hot.
I took the car to the nearest VW dealer, and the foreman came out with his diagnostic tool (the big one - not the VAG-COM) and told me their were 23 faults with the air conditioning system.
One other interesting thing - my thermometer was going nuts at the same time. It was 109, but the thermometer quickly went up to 126 degrees within a few minutes - the engine temperature went up or got hot.
The good (?) news is I don't think this would have been covered under warranty, because their aren't any broken parts - just needs a recharge...at least that's what it looks like now.
The early diagnosis is that I need an A/C recharge, and if the refrigerant gets even a little low, the entire system shuts off.
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If I don't replace it, will it cause any trouble?
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I have always had a occasionally burning smell in the cabin when I am using the heating system. Has never happened in summer. Only happens randomly in winter when I am using the heat. I don't think I have seen steam and stuff and definitely no water puddle in footwell area. This strongly makes me think that I have a leak in the heater core area, maybe not the core itself, just o-rings and things like that. Vw has checked many times and replaced the valve gaskets. But the smell is still there. This morning when the smell came, I opened up the hood immediately and I think the smell was around the passenger side plenum chamber area.
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I was plowing and when I put it in reverse it felt like it slipped, but then the dash message trans malfunction came up. I checked the codes and I got P0722 output shaft speed sensor.
Code P0720 (oss) sensor circuit fault
Then the truck went into safe mods. Is it just the sensor or is my reverse going out...
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My 5.8L XL Windsor van is overheating when idling or in traffic but cooling just fine when moving on highways.
The 5 blade-fan comes on as soon as I turn the engine on and the radiator appears to be working just fine, cooling fluid moving and no leaks.
I am a landscaper in NYC and often haul heavy loads through slow moving traffic in the city and would love to drive relaxed and not with my eyes fixed on the temperature gauge awaiting impending disaster.
What is the best course of action?
a) change the clutch and see how it goes...
b) change the clutch, the fan and the water pump
c) install an electric fan
d) drive the van into the east river
Another issue, which has me and my friends puzzled, is that I changed the termostat a while back in an attempt to locate the problem; I replaced the old 195 degrees with a 180. Since the change 8 times out of 10 when I start the van as it is warming up I have to rave the engine for the termostat to open otherwise it does not and I end up with overheating bang. Once it is open no problem beside the overheating while idling.
And one final issue after driving for a while the motor surges when idling at a stop light or in heavy traffic. I have been thinking a bad air sensor but my mechanic or I have not been able to fix this issue for years.
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The temperature control doesn't change the air temperature on my 94 SL2. If I slide the control all the way to the red, the air blowing out doesn't get any hotter. If I slide it all the way to the blue with the AC button and the recirculating air buttons depressed, it doesn't get any cooler. The blower fan works fine, the AC is charged with refrigerant, the compressor looks like it is working, and all the related relays and fuses seem to be okay. I've taken the radio out and loosened the heat/air control. The cables for the vents and the temperature are both attached. Maybe the temp control cable is broken down the line somewhere.
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I have a 2008 Toyota sienna XLE and just recently I have been unable to change the heating/cooling zones. For instance I can't change it to defrost even if I press the defrost button. Right now it is stuck on vents. It's all electronic controls on my model and even if the display is showing feet or defrost it is still coming from the vents. I live in New Hampshire and on cold snowy days I've got to be able to change which zone I want heat.
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I have a 2002 F350 7.3 Powerstroke with approximately 200,000 miles. Recently I have been having an issue with what I am told is my airbag control module heating up to the point it is too warm to touch when I am pulling a heavier load. It is located just under the dash on the center hump. I removed the black plastic cover revealing the module itself in order to determine that indeed is where the heat and smell of hot electrical equipment is originating from. It gets too hot to touch when pulling a heavy load and making the motor work...once I lighten up on it or am not pulling it immediately cools back down. If it is an option I would just disconnect it but I havent yet for fear of creating more of a problem.
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Over the past weekend I had to replace all of the egr gaskets and seals, due to it failing smog. I removed all of the harnesses over the motor, intake manifold, turbo, and oil filter housing. I also replaced the oil/oil filter and also the fuel filters. The truck ran great before I decided to replace all of the seals. When I went to start the truck, it would just crank and not fire. One thing I noticed was that my wait to start light only stays on for a few seconds, where before it would stay on for a while. After cranking on it for a while I got a code P2623 for the ICP circuit open. I have tried unplugging the ICP sensor to see if it would start, but it just cranks over. The truck sounds like it wants to fire, but wont. Should I pull the ipr and ICP sensor?
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The engine sometimes has misfiring, and the VCDS reports "Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 7, sporadically". I changed the spark plug, the injector and the ignition coil. So the problem remained and after about 600-800kms the fault came back. Now I moved a little bit the cables of the injector plug and I noticed that the problem is solved, until a few hundred kms were driven. The cyl. 7 is near front side and I could move the cables to the injector plug under the intake manifold.
Now I know, that the problem is the plug of injector (see pics)....
My question.... I bought the plug but it is not the complete like on the pics, it's only the middle part where the cables go in. It has not this sponge-like thing which is in the whole in which goes in the cable. The grey thing which locks the plug is also not in the new plug. Maybe if I have to exchange this small parts on the new plug? I can't imagine how to change the plug, do I have to cut the cables and put them in the new plug. What kind of attachement do the cables have in this plastic plug?
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I'm having a problem trying to troubleshoot the warning buzzer circuit. Normally,the warning buzzer beeps twice when the trunk begins to open. It will also beep twice when you press the button to close the trunk. Yesterday I noticed that the warning no longer sounds when i open the trunk, but still beeps when i close the trunk. I examined he trunk closer, but couldn't find the buzzer or an activator for the beep generator. The service manual was worthless.
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