Phaeton :: Temp Gauge Going Hot Then Back To Normal
Feb 1, 2011
So my understanding is the water temp gauge at 200 degrees is pretty much spot on. The last three days I notice the temp gauge go to 200 then up to 240 which is like just one line away from the red zone. I turned on my heat full blast and was on the tollway and the temps went back to 200. The moment I got back into stop and go traffic the temp goes up again 220-240 range. Again, one line away from the red zone. No other alarms or dash messages come up. No smell of anti-freeze.
As well, the oil temp which was always at 200 has done the same thing. Running over 200 in the 220 plus range. Could this just be low anti-freeze? If so, would I not get a dash warning light?
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My 1994 honda accord station wagons cooling fan is working but the temp gauge still goes all the way up then back to normal numerous times while driving.. I park on the side of the road while the car is on, pop the hood to check and see any signs of over heating but the motor seems to be normal.. What could be happening??
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For reasons I can't figure, the Temp gauge on the wife's Explorer is shooting from normal to high in just seconds. Then, it drops back to normal. When I looked at it this afternoon, I noted 2 things.
1) There was no sign of a coolant leak or overheating.
2) There wasn't ANY coolant in the tank!!!!!!!
The truck has evidently been running fine while this is going on.
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I have a 2004 Grand Prix and it is displaying the symptoms of overheating but the temp gauge is not going above normal operating temp. I replaced the thermostat twice, and after driving for about 10-20 mins coolant comes out of the overflow. I'm at a loss, I'm thinking temp sensor(?) But I don't want to keep throwing unnecessary money into it. The fans work fine, the heater blows as it should.
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Fluctuating temperature gauge? In the past few weeks I have noticed that my temp gauge goes over the normal temp line but the car never actually overheats. This doesn't happen all the time and only every once in a while. Today however, the gauge went very high and I immediately put the heat on high and it slowly dropped to normal again.
I had a water pump replaced several years ago and last year had the thermostat replaced as well. The only thing I have had done recently was an oil change at one of those convenience stations. During the check-point, I was asked if I wanted the filter changed that filters the air coming into the car. I said no, but now wondering if they actually disconnected something when checking for this. The reason I'm bringing this up is because sometimes I don't get hot air when the heat is on or cold air when the a/c is on.
After reading online more about this, I read that a faulty Temperature Sensor can give a false reading. Just added some water to the radiator but not much...so no leaks that I can see.
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At idle temperature is above middle. Upper radiator hose, which is connected to the thermostat is hot. Lower radiator hose that feeds back to the engine is cold. Radiator fan will not stop running if the temp guage is at middle to needle above middle. When running the temperature reading is normal at 30 mi/hr (middle to just below middle). Temperature will also go down if at high rpm idle, about 2,500 RPM.
New thermostat replaced last week. Water pump replaced less than one year ago. Upper radiator and lower radiator hoses are pressurized when running and off.
I suspect the thermostat was installed incorrectly. Pressurized hoses mean excess air in the cooling circuit/system. If so, does it mean I have to bleed out the air? How do you bleed out the air on a cooling circuit of a car, I thought the reservoir tank already does that naturally? I think the normal range for the temp guage should be 1/3 of the whole range of the guage, right?
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I was sitting in my car on lunch break. I noticed the temp gauge was higher than normal. Then I noticed a little steam coming out from under the hood. When I checked, there was antifreeze leaking out from where the tube connects to the overflow tank. It didn't look like there was a hole in the tube, it was squirting out right where the tube connects to the tank. I turned it off, and had to go back to work. I'm not mechanically inclined. When I got off work, I put a bottle or Bars stop leak in and filled it back up with antifreeze. Started it up, didn't seem to be leaking. Drove it home. Any time I am idling or cruising, the temp gauge will go up to the 3/4 mark , when accelerating it will drop to between 1/4 and 1/2, which is where it normally was.
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Every now and then when I slow down the temp gauge drops about 1 notch below its normal 200 reading. It's nerver done this before. Car runs great and heat is strong. Is this a sign of a failing thermostat? If so, where is the thermostat located, is it hard to replace, and should I get OEM or is OTC ok? Car has 89K on it.
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My temp gauge (which very seldom deviated form its position) is showing above normal temps. Yeah its over 90 here but this is unusual for my car to run hotter. I put in a new thermostat about 3 years ago. I've also been adding water/anti-freeze because there was a small leak (that I finally found in the hose) that I corrected. Could it be that my mixture isn't a 50/50 mix or is it my thermostat again? They say they don't last long anymore???
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My friend has an 08 4.6. He has replaced the thermostat with 3 different ones all with different temps, still nothing. Temp gauge reads normal but after driving it for a bit he can take off the radiator cap while it's running and not get sprayed in the face with coolant, almost like there is no pressure in the system.
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I finally got my 20th to run right. But now and ever since I bought it the gas needle keeps going down and back to normal every time i make a sudden move or go through a bump. What could be causing it?
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Temp control is stuck, but when it reaches over 55 degrees or so, it goes back to normal. Have a very slight clicking sound/feel when it is normal. Toyota wants 10 hours labor up front.
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I have a 2007 6.0 that this has happened to twice now. It's fine around town but I never hear the can come on. Friday when on the interstate my my temp gauge started to rise past normal operating temperature before fan came on. Is this normal? After the fan came on it stayed at normal temp for the rest of trip....
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Ok so here here goes I have a 1999 f250 super duty with 5.4 triton it seems to be over heating but the gage stays in the normal operating temperature range. I just changed the water pump. Could it be the thermostat and Would it hurt to remove the thermostat until I can get one...
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I have a 98 f150(4.6 V8) that has 'seemingly' overheated for about 5 seconds twice in the last month. I noticed the temperature gauge went all the way up after about 1 mile of travel, then it immediately fell back down to normal. The truck has 198k miles.
I flushed out the system using a Peak Flushing Tee, replaced the thermostat with spring facing the engine block, and refilled the system.
I haven't had another overheating instance but I am having problems with my heater....the truck seems to warm up fine and the heat starts off working well. The temperature gauge reads normal for a few minutes then drops and I lose the heat. The truck blows cool air for a while, then will start blocking hot air again.
I believe the water pump has been replaced fairly recently...the pulley has no slack and I don't see any leaks or wetness around the pump or its weep-hole.
I read it could be a blend door or blend door actuator. I don't hear any funny clicking and obviously get some heat.
Should I try another new thermostat? Intermittent water pump problems?
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1997 Nissan pickup 2.4 liter auto.gas gauge drop to all most empty when driving.then i can hit a bump in the road and it will go back to normal.
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I have a 1993 Celica and replace the radiator about 2 years ago. Tonight I notice my temperature gauge going from the center up to the red, but then it would slowly come back down to the center. And this continue for about 30 minutes until I reach home. What this could be?
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I have a 2.0 auto city golf. The wife claims when she's sitting at a light the temp gauge drops to nothing, it sounds like it stalled and starts to roll back and then comes back to life when she pumps the gas. Every time I drive it it's fine.
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02 6.8 4x4 excursion. When I start the truck cold, the trans temp gauge immediately moves to "running" temp. Not really sure how this happens, I'd figure that if the xducer was trash it would ride all the way high or all the way low. What's happening here? I'd sure like a functional gauge...
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I have a 2012 Crew cab Silverado 5.3 V8 with the towing package. When I pull my travel trailer (approx. 5000 lbs), the water temp stays 1/2 guage and the tranny temp is 170-190, however, on steep hills the water temp guage goes 2/3 to 3/4 guage for a short time and the tranny temp reaches 200-210 degrees. Is the elevated water and tranny temps okay or should I try to reduce them back to the normal range. What is the max temp I should keep the tranny at?
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I don't have my manual handy, wondering what the normal operating temp of the coolant is for a 1.8T B5? I believe it is 190, but want confirmation.
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