Phaeton :: Stutter Or Brief Jerk While Driving / Coolant Level Warning
Aug 7, 2015
While driving my 04 w12 a few months ago i noticed a "stutter" or brief jerk while driving. the next morning i had a "coolant level" warning. i took the car to a mechanic i use who diagnosed the problem as a broken coolant line involving the transmission cooler, with the result that coolant migrated to the atf. indication was that the tranny was toast, along with the atf cooler. I authorized a repair (not inexpensive), keeping costs down by installing a used tranny. since the car was "fixed" i still got a "jerk" usually in fourth gear, sometimes in third. i took the car back and was told that the tranny was flushed numerous times and the transmission was reflashed. i picked the car up yesterday, but i still get the "jerks", now usually in third gear.
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I just bought a 2001 elantra. The car frequently will jerk or stutter while driving like the gas is bad or it is starved for something. When the stutter problem happens while driving the check engine light flashes but does not stay on. It usually only stutter 1 time but has as much as 3. The other day when I was in a drive thru waiting to order the car kinda sputtered during an idle then shut off the check engine light did not flash at this time. It restarted fine after that.
I pulled the codes and read them and I have 2. I am not sure if they are related to this problem. They were U0D00 and P0705. For the P0705 I cleaned the terminal but did not pull the negative on the battery the reset the computer. I reset the codes and the problem still is happening but no new codes are present. The code P0705 has not returned since.
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My '04 with 47K on the clock just announced 'Level Workshop'. The warning does not come on right away and takes several minutes to re appear after the car has been turned off and restarted. The car is level, the ride height adjustment functions perfectly, the damping selection functions as before and the jacking control is working the way it is supposed to.
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At the end of last winter, I got the warning flash that my coolant level was low. So I topped up (about a pint or more)About 3 weeks later I had to go through the same scenario !! but then it started to get hot outside and my air conditioner mode took over and lo and behold - no more coolant loss.!!?? Now that winter and cold weather is back - so is my leak!!
So I run off to the local dealer and they get the car up. And drop the belly pan with the engine running and the heat cranked up. the mechanic said he found a dripping hose coming from UNDER the intake manifold.
The engine is a 2002 2.8 v6....
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My friend bartered for a '99 F250, 2wd/auto, 4 door, 7.3, 258k miles.
It had reportedly sat for one year, though the expired registration sticker and other things point to it sitting for two.
It ran low on oil, sputtered and died. Oil in the degas tank. Filled to oil to mid way on the hatch marks on the dip stick.
I drove it 25 miles to my house, and the oil level is not reading on the dip stick.
The sludgy fluid level in the degas tank is unchanged. Where is the fluid going?
I will refill the oil to see just how much it lost in the 25 miles if it important to someone, but I prefer to not waste the oil.
My first plan is to remove, inspect and replace the oil cooler o-rings. Even though the dealership charged him for this, I don't trust that they did it right. I think it is the easiest and mostly likely place for oil getting into the coolant.
It does have a really long crank before there is enough low pressure oil for it to start. At the moment I think this is a separate issue.
The dealership also charged him for a replacement injector. No idea if they replaced the cup or not.
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About a month ago I noticed the coolant level looked a little low. I attributed it to the fact that the engine was warm after driving. Tonight the coolant light illuminated and the mfd states the level is low. Sure enough it's quite low.Is this normal for the R? I know my MK5 GTI burned oil like crazy. Should I be concerned?
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When I start up the car in the morning, the infamous "STOP!! CHECK COOLANT LEVEL" warning will come on, and then shortly thereafter it will go away. I topped off the coolant level (with the pink stuff of course) and yet this light will come on occasionally. It mostly comes on first thing in the morning when the car is started up and cold, and *sometimes* come on when the car is warm. Fluid level is all topped off. What gives?
I was reading that there is a fluid level sensor that sometimes goes bad? could this be it? I changed the coolant temp sensor back in the summer of this year. (not sure if that has anything to do with it?) Not sure if I have a leak, cause I look under the car in the morning and I have no spots of coolant anywhere.
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I have a 2011 Chevy Impala. When accelerating from a stop it will frequently stutter then jerk forward. The first time this happened I thought someone had rear-ended me.
I've been to the dealer several times about this however they say they cannot isolate the cause. More importantly I can't seem to get the vehicle to repeat this problem when I've brought it to the dealership.
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Last year I was driving and my low oil level warning came on for some odd reason. I say odd because I had just done an oil change a couple months prior. I filled it up to the correct level and everything was fine. A couple months later after doing my oil change the same thing happened again. I get the same warning and now feel there is an issue with my car. I called the dealership and they said they can do an oil consumption test. My car is a 07 GS350 AWD.
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Coolant overheat warning. Luckily, was moments from home so pulled in and stopped for about 6 hours. Checked coolant on level surface...looks ok. Started it up and drove around neighborhood. Car steadily climbs to 200 degrees F and then will sit there for around 5 minutes. As oil temperature breaks the halfway point, the coolant temp begins to steadily rise again until it hits just below to overheat mark for a couple minutes, then finally pushes through into the red.
Parked car overnight.
Drove to VW repair shop. Exact same results driving there. Temp increases from ignition to 200 degrees over a couple minutes then stops for 5+ minutes. Oil gets hot, coolant gets hot, I get very hot.Only 10 Months ago, I replaced the timing belt, water pump, and thermostat with genuine parts. I know what a pain in the arse it is to change these items so I did them all at once. I am sick thinking about having to do it yet again with these apes poking around my car.
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On a few occasion, usually during cool weather, the engine temperature rises up to 130 C, the coolant overheating warning comes on for a few about a minute or two and then the temperature goes back to normal (90 C.)
The car has 106,000 km. I purchased it last summer from an independent use car dealer. I inquired about the car calling the previous owner. He did mentioned that the only problem he ever experience was that the car overheated on a few occasion during the winter months (cooler weather).
Could it be that the thermostat needs to be replaced?
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So my 2007 Accent/Hatchback started having this weird issue the other day.
My Parking Brake/Low Brake fluid Level Warning Light will coming on while driving and then all the gauges drop down. The light goes off and the gauges come right back up. All this happens within 2-4 seconds maybe. And usual happens maybe once every 6-7 times I drive it so not all the time.
I am driving, not braking so even more confused.
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On starting today I had an alarm to check coolant. Never had this before - and the expansion tank was dry. No visible signs of loss - Oil seems fine and free from contaminant.. so I guess not the head gasket!
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I have a V8 engine, and I have been getting the coolant overheating warning come on once in a while.
The engine fans go crazy, and the temperature needle on the small round gauge climbs all the way to red then the coolant overheating warning comes on in dash screen.
This can happen right after I turn the car on, or on occasion, it can happen as I am driving around the city.
I stop, switch the car off, and I turn it back on after a minute, and the car is just fine. So, basically, it doesn't seem like the engine coolant is actually overheating, but the fans and warning systems seem to think that they are. The fans are pretty loud, and its noticeable when they go on, and when this happens, I know that the needle will go all the way up and the warning will go off. I also know that if I turn the car off for a minute, and it will be just fine.
The conditions are random for when this happens. So its not when its particularly hot or cold or anything predictable. Could this just be a sticky thermostat? Is it a bad water pump? Bad battery?
The trouble is that now I am afraid I cant take a real drive. Around the city I can just pull over, but I am afraid to take the car two hours out or something.
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A few days ago I got an Airbag Fault Warning while driving, since then the orange airbag light has remained on and at start up it gives me a "Airbag Fault" warning. Any remedies? The manual states to just take it in to the dealer.
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Had my low coolant warning light and message come on while driving home from work. My car is 1 year old with 30k on it, motor is hot right now and coolant is a good bit below the minimum line (will post a pic soon). I do my service intervals at 7500 miles at most and regularly keep an eye on my oil and coolant levels.
I just checked the coolant last week after an oil change and noticed it was at the bottom minimum line, it's fairly below that now. Does this call for a ride to the dealership? I've seen where people have had pumps/hoses replaced already due to leaks. Nothing on the ground from what I can tell and nothing seems to be leaking under the hood.
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Background: 2004 Phaeton, 38k miles, no major/minor mechanical issues -- until now. Issue is this. The drain lines in the trunk area of the car became clogged one dark and dreary night. Water overflowed -- somehow -- onto the starter circuits.
Whilst driving to the office the "IGNITION LOCK WARNING" indicator came on. When I arrived at the office and shut off the engine, the car became completely immobilized (imagine several hisses and four distinct thunks) and the key became stuck in the ignition.
The ignition circuit was replaced and drains cleaned out with 'nipples' removed to ensure no more blockages. HOWEVER, I have now been told the starter is bad.
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On Sunday I'm driving to the store my LOW COOLANT light goes on. So I buy some coolant. I get home let the car cool off and check my radiator, it is full. My coolant recovery tank is also at the proper level.
Been three days already checked levels again and I'm not losing any coolant.
What the car is NOT doing:
1. Not losing fluid
2. Not running hot
I'm thinking coolant level sensor?
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I have a 2003 Toyota Prius with ~250,000 miles. Yesterday I was driving and the vehicle started to "stutter" and the warning lights came on. My ScanGauge indicated code P3125. I drove normally for 2-3 miles and parked for a bit. When I returned, I was able to start up and drive home with no problems (about 20 miles of highway and stop & go traffic), and drove most of this morning, but around noon it happened again and this time the vehicle would hardly move at all. It had no reverse and I had to push it out of the parking spot. I managed to limp home and park it.
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About three weeks ago while driving my Prius and accelerating the car jerked suddenly and warning lights came on. I was able to read the above codes with tech stream. The car still drives but has limited horsepower. The engine also does not seem to rev down like a normal hybrid. I have not had good experiences with the local Toyota dealer.
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Ok, when I'm driving and go up a hill or have to give it light pedal it stutters, almost like a cyl drop. I'm pretty sure its not a cylinder drop. It will continue to do it until I release throttle and mash it down again.
Also, when i turn the key at start up, I get nothing. I have to put it in N then it starts right up. Neutral saftey switch? And would that be related to the above issue? Guy at a shop said he thinks its IAC and said its connected to N switch?
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