Phaeton :: Stalled Transmission Indicator - Engine Not Turn Off By Hitting Keyless Push Button


Jul 1, 2007

I started the car with keyless push button and almost immediately moved the gearshift selector from Park P to Drive D. I drove like this for several miles on traffic-congested surface streets. The Phaeton felt as if I was on 2nd gear. Upon stopping, and moving gearshift selector to P, Phaeton would not turn off engine by hitting the keyless push button Start/Stop. I had to plug in the key (had not done that in a long time!) and twist it counterclockwise to kill the engine. Upon rebooting the car (used to be called re-starting the engine, I guess), everything went back to normal.

Photo of screwed-up transmission indicator : [URL] ....

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I have a 2005 W12

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2002 jetta AC only works if I turn on and then start car

1- get in car, push in AC button

2- start car

3- feel cold air

4- will blow cold forever (if car is running)

If I am driving and turn on, it does not work. Seems that it trys to come on, kicks compressor for maybe a second then waits 5 seconds and trys to kick again. The pressures are high but in green (OK), when I first saw this I added a little Freon , it did not change characteristic.

When it does not work the rad-fan comes on and blows, When it works the rad fan blows as it should.

This is a 4-cyl 2.0 GL and does not have climate control...

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What are the facts? What is the real difference between an F350 SRW at 11,200 or 11,500 GVW and one with the 10,000 GVW. Is it just paperwork or do they change springs?

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Method 2) You get in the car, push the button till all the lights come on, wait for a few seconds, press the brake, and push the button to START

Which one is more recommended? Does either option have any affect on the mechanism and life of the Push Button function?

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So, where does this leave me? As I was listing too it running, I noticed a faint humming coming from this thing on top of the motor. Underneath the VW logo cover is a round black plastic piece with a large hose attached to the side, and a hose coming out the bottom. If I tilt this slightly, the humming stops. I realize this probably has nothing to do with the stalling, but I'm fishing.

Why the car stalled, and/or if this crankcase ventilation/emissions device should be humming.

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There they connected the car to a computer to check if there were any error codes logged. But they haven't find anything, after the second time I visited the station they replaced the battery in the key, told that maybe that was the problem.

I really don't know much about cars but it was a strange idea as I would expect the same behaviour when the battery is low than when the key is not present: Car not doing anything but displaying a message that the key is not present.

Anyway, it kinda worked, or I was lucky. For more than a month everything was fine, not a single issue. And today morning it started again. I brought my car to a hand washing, and after they cleaned the outside with steam they wanted to park the car inside the building to clean the interior, and the same issue occurred. And after that it happened with me as well several times this day.

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I reached work without incident, but then when I came to restart the car later in the morning, I had the engine fault come up again with a very insistent chime. I phoned my dealer and took it in...the DPF indicator coming up again while in traffic on the way there. The fault has been diagnosed as a faulty diesel particulate sensor, which is now being changed on Monday when the part arrives.

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Also at least one time the car actually begins to crank but it falls short, like it doesn't makes it through the full cranking sequence hence requiring a second shot.

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