Phaeton :: Solid Engine Symbol Showed Up Inside Tachometer
Jan 19, 2013
Today the solid engine symbol showed up inside my tachometer (no workshop message in the instrument panel display). The owners manual says this is an exhaust system problem. What do you make of the following scan:
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.5
Data version: 20121222
Saturday,19,January,2013,12:32:00:22007
Chassis Type: 3D - VW Phaeton
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There is a little yellow symbol just to the left of the tachometer needle that looks like a guy sleeping in a bed. I don't have the owners manual handy to check it. What this is?
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I have a 99 Passat; 5-speed V6. My tachometer would go out intermittently and at the same time the oil and brake light would start flashing and the ABS light would come on solid. There would be no noticeable difference in performance. When the tachometer would come back on line the lights would go go. Now the tachometer appears to be down permanently and the dash lights above are in the same state as above. Still no noticable difference in performance. What may be wrong?
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2 days ago, with no warning, my 2011 Elantra Touring wouldn't start. Just wouldn't turn over.
I noticed a dash light with the symbol of a key inside a car was on. It would stay lit up at all times except during the start up attempt - even with the key out of the ignition.
I looked it up and have been reading about the immobilizer. Apparently this might be my trouble. Problem is, how to troubleshoot.
Here is what I have tried so far (turn-key ignition)
- verified car was in park.
- tried to start in neutral.
- jump started the battery, even though it didn't seem to be a battery issue.
- left key turned to start position for 15 minutes, then tried to start it. This was recommended in a thread on a different forum for a similar sounding problem.
Will try to post a video of the dash during a start attempt in a few minutes.
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I have entered too many symbol on my sat nav map display, e.g., petrol station, car park, train station, etc. The map display looked very congested and would like to delete some of the symbol. There is no instruction in the handbook for removing the symbol.
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I noticed a couple of days ago that when I lock my Phaeton the flashing red light on the inside of the door turns solid red for a few seconds. The usual pattern is that it flashes a few times (a couple of seconds worth) when you press the lock button on the remote and then turns solid red for twenty or thirty seconds before going on to it's usual flashing to indicate that the doors are locked/alarm is set.
Is this normal or does it indicate a fault with the alarm or immobilizer? I can't recall it doing this until Friday (two days ago) but perhaps I've just missed it.
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I was driving home tonight and stopped to get dog food. Resuming my drive home I had gone about 3 miles and my ABS light came on, the tachometer began fluctuation and the speed odometer went to zero. And the engine was losing power. Pulled over turned the lights off and turned the car off. Waited about 30 seconds and turned the car back on and everything was fine and car ran absolutely normal with no warning lights. I was about 26 degrees out.
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Going down a steep hill tonight. Been running for 30 mins - all 100% fine. Was in 2nd gear - had selected it for engine braking. Suddenly got Engine Fault Workshop message - ABS warning light and flashing glow plug symbol.
Continued to drive fine. Definitely not limping! Came home and scanned it. First scan had ABS intermittent fault. Cleared all faults. Engine Fault warning in MFD has now go. Still drives fine only with annoying flashing light!
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.3
Data version: 20120401
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Chassis Type: 3D - VW Phaeton D1
Scan: 01 02 03 05 06 07 08 09 11 13 15 16 17 18 19 23 27 28 29 2E
34 36 37 38 39 46 47 55 56 57 65 66 68 69 71 75 76 77
VIN: WVWZZZ3DZ58004546 Mileage: 76780km/47708miles
[Code] ......
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I've had problems with my w12 2003 in that it doesn't fire on all cylinders. Eventually the "exhaust"-symbol lights up and I had to take it to a vw-center. They did change 1 "ignition coil" (if that is the right term for it) and it worked fine for some months. But last week it happened again, it is rather awkward since you get heavy vibrations from the normally unperceptible engine. I had to tow it to the same vw-center and now they change the remaining 11 "ignition coils". However it doesn't run true...! The "exhaust" symbol didn't light but the motor didn't fire on all cylinders, it was quit noticeable. Is this a known problem? What else than the "ignition coils" can be the cause of the problem?
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I replaced my seven year old original battery on my 2008 Camry V6 SE. The car started ok, but the check engine came on and showed the P300 misc engine misfire. The car ran fine. The original battery failed the load test at the local auto parts store. I replaced the battery and the check engine light went out. I have noticed better engine performance and better transmission shifting too.
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Today I got back to to the Phaeton in a multistory car park and the red lights on the front doors were on solid rather than the normal flashing and what appeared brighter than normal. There was no evidence of anybody touching the car. It went away when the car was started and locked again.
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I have had this 2004 Phaeton since 2006. No problems and only 72k miles. Over the last month I have had three occasions where upon start the gear display [PRNDS] in the center display of the dash board lights up solid orange (unlike the orange boarder with clear inside). The car shifts into reverse and into drive but seems to stay stuck in 2nd gear.
This is now happening about 50% of the time I start the car. When the display is normal the car and transmission appear fine.
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BMW 325xi... When I turn on the car the symbol is not there, it only appears after I put the car into gear. Whether that is reverse or drive. I went to an auto parts store and the codes that came up were a lot, I'm not sure they are all referring to the symbol. Any tips on what could be wrong with it?
-P1345-P0300-P0313-P1353-P1347-P1351-P1349-P1083-P0313-P1085-P1343-P0171-P0174
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Car started acting up the other week. I had my AGM battery replaced and that solved 99% of my problems.
Gas Cap - The switch inside of my car does not open the gas cap, I have to go in through the trunk. Do you think this is switch related or do you think this is actuator related?
Trunk Switch - The button on the bottom edge inside of my trunk does not work. Does this switch need to be replaced?
Driver Side Door Tumbler - When I go to manually unlock my car, I do not feel any force back on my key.
Do I need a new manual tumbler to unlock my car? Could a circuit just be unplugged?Right Side Wiper Blade - It just isn't working, but the left one is. Do I need a new motor or relay?
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My headlights, especially the right front one, seems to have a haze inside it (them). I was wondering if VW replaced them because of this problem. I have a current CPO policy.
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My 2004 Camry will not start; I have never had any starting issues before and the car was running perfectly hours before the problem started.
The battery is fully charged
The fuel pump is operating
The ignition and fuel pump fuses and relays are good
When I attempt to start the car everything sounds normal, but engine never starts and the tachometer does not move.
Additionally a soft buzzing noise starts coming from somewhere near the air filter box. The sound can be stopped by removing the "EFI" fuse. Disconnecting the injectors does not stop the sound.
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My speedometer shows 15 mph at idle stop in Drive gear. Sometimes it fluctuates simultaneously with the engine. Then tachometer also fluctuates. I took it to the dealer, and they wanted to replace an instrument cluster (under the dashboard), but I declined. If it is a cluster, why does it fluctuate with the engine and tachometer? I took it to the shop, but it did not do it then.
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Took the Prius on a little journey the last couple of days. Drove over 700 miles, mostly highway, and the weirdest thing happened to me during that drive.
History: This Prius has a bad HV Battery, in that about 3 modules are weaker than the rest, and the car likes to throw 3006, and corresponding codes for the modules themselves as it sees fit. When this happens, the "BRAKE" indicator along with the "ENGINE SYMBOL" pop up, and the engine revs up above 2000rpm, yet less than 3000rpm, and the drivetrain shuts down output to the wheels. Best I can explain it anyhow.
Other than having to pull over to the side of the roadway, reset the codes and start the car again, all operates fine, until the codes pop up again.
But in this long drive, I was able to repeat 5 times, what has happened once in a great while, but these times, I was able to realize something during the events.
The car, when traveling down an incline, at the very moment the codes were thrown, would start surging in speed, and would not disengage or stop, even if I took my foot off of the accelerator and pressed the brake. I could press the brake long enough that the drivetrain would finally disengage, yet the engine would rev up well over 3000rpm, so much, I felt it best to turn off the keyswitch, and coast to the side of the roadway.
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I went to push that bastard in yesterday (gently) and I felt something pop behind it - the button depressed, went crooked inside the cup holder housing and now won't "un-depress" and the cup holder won't "rise" back up. I've tried messing with it, but to no avail. Car's in for the 30K service, asked VW to take a look at it - I know its "only" a cup holder, so I'm not bent out of shape over this.
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I have noticed water inside headlights after driving in the rain. In the left one is much more then in the right one. My model is 3.0 TDI from 9/2008.
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My car smells like some plastic part is burning inside. The heat works just fine but for some reason i am getting this horrible smell. How to get to air filter of the fan.
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