I have a question, regarding the 5.0 v10. When i accelerate from stop, it has a delay, and a slow start, something like it would start in 2nd gear, but it doesn't (it's in 1st). Is the torque somehow limited whet accelerating from a complete stop? Because while driving, the acceleration is instant, and drives normally.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2006 Saab 9-3. Whenever I come to a stop and press the accelerator it is slow to accelerate. The check engine light is on, too. The rpm's do not rev up and the car slowly creeps by then eventually will start to get going. I took it in to the mechanic and they told me I need a new throttle body which they just put in. The car worked when I drove it home. Then after a couple of days it is doing the same thing.
View 6 RepliesOver the past week, my engine has stalled numerous times while sitting at a stop light. I simply turn the key and restart the engine and go on my way... until it happens again. FYI - engine is idling between 500 and 600 rpm. I don't know if it's significant or just normal, but when the engine stalls, the red "battery" icon comes on, but goes away as soon as I restart.
In the past few days, I've also noticed my windshield wipers have been very slow, regardless of what position I put the stalk in. Today, there were no engine stalling incidents. However, this morning the wipers were extremely slow when I tested them. Then, this afternoon, everything worked fine! The engine continued to run fine all day and my wipers seem to be back to normal speed!
Does this sound like typical "low left side battery" gremlins, or perhaps the right side "starter" battery? Is it just coincidence that these two symptoms showed up at the same time and are not related? By the way, I believe the left side battery was replaced by the previous owner a year or two ago.
I have an automatic 2004 f150 fx4 with a 5.4 engine. I just bought the truck and noticed the other day that when I shift into reverse, there is a 1-2 second delay. Sometimes it will shift quicker than other times. Drive seems to be a little more swift I think. Everything seems to run smooth and the shifting is very smoot other than the delay. Is this normal or what could be some of the causes. The previous owner has the ATF changed this pst summer and it looks and smells fine other than maybe having to much fluid.
View 2 RepliesMy isf for couple months now and love the car. I have an 08 which only 7k miles on it. Lets say at a stop I start to accelerate, I notice a slight hesitation before it picks up around 1-1.5 rpms. Under hard acceleration I don't notice it, but with nice and easy acceleration that slight hesitation is kinda annoying. Not sure since car has such low miles on it if I need to run fuel injection cleaner or something, of if something else could be wrong. I kinda mention it to the lexus service manager and he said something that next time I bring the car in that he'll let the mechanic do a tranny ecu update of some sort? I didn't know that there was such a thing.
View 14 RepliesYesterday while i was driving home out of the blue, I was in the city making a stop and suddenly everything in my odometer start blinking including gas level (gas was halfway), also big red triangle turns on and some other lights that I couldn't see cuz the car stop accelerate so i just make to pull over and set the Parking then I turn off the car to try turn it on again and see if everything clear out but didn't turn on anymore couldn't even get it in neutral to move it...
I press START button ones and screen turns on and even able to get into info system to check that my aux12v battery was ok. BUT when press the START button twice with or without stop pedal all energy shut off, screen dies and odometer just try to blink quickly before die not even able to see if any other light turns on like the engine one or big triangle.
AND WORSE part is that i can pull anything out of my Scanner because it needs to be in 2 STARTBUTTON pressed mode in order for my scanner to connect with my Prius.
My family has had this car for a long time. It worked fine for years but in the past year it has had some problems when starting. Sometimes the car starts fine, sometimes it won't start until you re-try a few times, sometimes it won't start and you can try over and over and it never does. When it doesn't start, it doesn't do anything at all, no sound or anything. The battery is not dead, the car has more than half a tank of gas. Recently, the car started fine, but after driving it for a while, we stopped at a stop light.
When we tried to accelerate after the stop, the car died, during the acceleration and a left turn. We got the car going again after trying a few times, but later that same trip, the car died again when accelerating, but this time it was from a slow speed, not a stop and it was while we were driving straight. The car is well taken care of (oil changes, check the oil, do not let it get to under a quarter of a tank, change transmission filter & oil, air filter, brakes, etc.) The timing chain is permanent, stainless steel. We do not drive very much but we are afraid to now that we don't know if it will die while we are driving.
This has happened 3 times.
1st) pulled quickly over to side of road, shut off truck. It would not start then. Towed it to service station and it started the next morning (with no repair made). I wonder if tow ride dislodged the the blockage in fuel line(?). Always sounds like it's going to turn over, but like not getting fuel.
2nd) Went to leave work, truck wouldn't start. Towed to my mechanic and he replaced fuel pump. Thought it was fixed because it ran fine until just the other day.
3rd) Slowed down to complete stop in heavy traffic and it stalled. Would not restart. Again sounded like it was going to start but didn't seem to be getting fuel. Good samaratins pushed me off road. Had it towed to mechanic. Started the next morning without any repair or service. It's like the tow ride and bumps getting it off the tow truck dislodges what ever is blocking the fuel line.
My mechanic replaced the fuel pump, but I don't think her replaced the fuel filter.
Lately I've been getting the Stop! Car too low! message when I start the car if it has been sitting more than 6 hours or so. the front appears to be too low. After 20-30 seconds, the front end raises up high enough and the message goes away. It didn't do this when I first got the car. I'm going in for my 80,000 mile service soon.
View 17 RepliesMy wife's car is a 2006 2.0T Passat. It has been very slow to blow cool air on starting. Once you are moving at highway speeds it cools fine, but then blows hot air when you slow or come to a stop.
I have taken the car to a mechanic who purged and refilled the coolant. This did not fix the problem. Upon checking with the mechanic, we noticed that both the primary and aux. cooling fans start and stop at the same time, and only would come on when I would rev the engine up some (around 2000 rpm).
I have talked with this mechanic and one more. Both are certified master mechanics, but neither specializes in VW. They believe it may be the high pressure side switch or the compressor itself.
I did the installation of the start/stop button and it works. However, I have some unresolved issues. I have done a search in the FAQ thread but could not find anything referring to the following:
1- When I lock the car, either with the fob or with the door buttons, the alarm will sound when I enter the car if I unlock it using the door handle sensors. I can disarm the alarm with the fob, but it is not disarming with the door handles. How can I solve this issue so that the alarm is disarmed with the door handles? Can this be solved using a VAG-COM?
2- When I turn on the alarm, either with the fob or the door handle, the alarm indicating light blinks for a few seconds, then goes steady, and then blinks normally. I had not noticed this steady light state before. My alarm, I think, always went straight to blinking and stayed blinking
.
3- When they gave me the car back the adviser said that the seat would not move and the trunk would not open. However, I think they ran down the battery because the interior light was on. The dash displayed the "start the car now" message.
a) I had an almost two hour drive back home, do you think that the battery recharged in that time?
b) Was there any lasting damage done to the battery?
c) Is it safe to charge the battery with a trickle charger or do I need a special and specific charger?
The trunk now operates OK and the start/stop button also works. I wish the alarm also did.
My Phaeton is experiencing issues with the temp sensor. After running the car for a while, then a brief stop (10 minutes or less) it refuses to start. (It cranks but does not start) After a while, it starts fine. No check engine light comes up.
A quick Vagcom read (not the dealer's Vagcom) does show the temperature sensor is reading really low temperatures where it shouldn't. We think this temp sensor gone awry is messing with the fuel mix.
So in the parts book, we see only one temp sensor coming off the radiator, is this a 'easy' fix or do I need the dealer involved?
I can not start the car by pressing the Start / Stop button. The display shows the message "Key Non found". Remote control key with normally opens and closes the car but the car itself does not open the approach to it. I have two keys and the two are the same.
View 7 RepliesI recently purchased a 2012 Golf Sportline 2.5 auto. I also currently own a 2006 Jetta and 2008 Rabbit both 2.5 automatics. Both older cars run and drive great with this engine and tranny combination for me. However with the 2012 I really notice a throttle delay when accelerating from a stop and a very early shift into 6th gear when in the gear selector is in drive mode causing engine lugging. Shifts into 6'th at 60 kph doing 1100 RPM.
This I find is very annoying compared to my other two VW's which have better throttle response and shift a little later into 6'th allowing the engine to turn at 1400 RPM allowing for better acceleration without having to kick it down a gear.
I have taken it back to the dealer hoping for a ECM flash update but nothing is available from VW and my vehicle ECM has all other current settings and updates. I ve looked into aftermarket solutions such as the Sprint Booster which allows for a more responsive pedal but based on my other VW's my 2012 should not preform like this.
Every time I come to a stop or accelerate from a stop theres this weird squeaking sound coming from I am guess in the suspension?? Whats causing this.
View 2 RepliesThe malfunction indicator lamp has been on in my '03 Honda Civic LX for some time now. The car shakes and has trouble accelerating, but not all the time. This usually occurs when the car is stopped, perhaps at a stoplight, in drive. The malfunction indicator lamp blinks when this happens. I brought it to have the codes read, and these came up; P0303 (this happened twice in one reading), P0420, and P0135.
View 3 RepliesI have a Mazda 6i Touring 2009 (2.5L, 4Cyl.) with an engine failure. I don’t have any power. When I press on the gas, the revs go up but the car is slow to accelerate, hesitates and I get a CEL. So, I connected the car to an OBDII reader and got these two codes; P0403 and P2188.
I then went to my mechanic and had the vehicle tuned-up. I did an oil change, spark plugs change (The 2 in the middle were black, burned. The other 2 were OK) and a radiator flush. The car was still having the same problem so we decided to clean the MAF sensor, the throttle body and the EGR valve. Also, the air filter is OK.
After putting everything back in place, he also checked for a vacuum leak but didn’t find any.
We went for a ride and at first, it seemed a little bit better but after the car got warmer, same problem… I connected the car again and we got 3 more codes; P061B, P0300 and P2187. He deleted the EGR valve and we went for a ride to see if it was the problem but it felt the same.
He then decided to go for the injectors. After listening to the injectors, he found that the two in the middle are pulsating a lot faster than the other two on each side. So, this is probably why the system is too rich...
My mechanic connected a system to clean the injectors, took the rail out and tested them and said they were working fine, they are not clogged and have no leaks. He then switched the injectors to make sure. He put the 2 in the middle at the extremities and vice-versa. Same thing, the two in the middle were pulsating a lot faster than the other two even after being changed. So, this proved that the problem is not the injectors.
He took the new spark plugs out to check and the two in the middle were black burned while the other two were perfect. He also switched the coils just to see and the problem remains.
He doesn’t know what else to try… Even bought another PCM and programmed it to see if that was the problem but no, it does the same with the other PCM connected.
And same codes come out. Here with a freeze frame:
Confirmed Trouble Codes
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected (Powertrain, Generic)
P0403: Exhaust Gas Recirculation "A" Control Circuit (Powertrain, Generic)
P2188: System Too Rich at Idle (Bank 1) (Powertrain, Generic)
[Code] ....
And just found out that the oil smells like gas .... Why are only those 2 middle injectors receiving a signal to squirt more gas than the other two? What is going on? What could be the problem???
I have a 2002 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport with ~140,000 miles on it. Recently, it's started having a problem, where when I make a right hand turn, it fails to accelerate until the wheel is straight...as if it's revving but not catching/accelerating until I've straightened the wheel and am headed straight onto whatever road I've just turned onto...does that make sense?
It tends to happen more at 1st start up in the morning...and then, once its warmed up it's not as bad, but still present. Left hand turns I don't notice it...maybe because they aren't as sharp? Also, fyi, the check engine light has been on for a while, but I know this is due to the catalytic converter..and am saving up to get that replaced.
2004 Mazda M3 . My auto is making grinding sounds at first-slow speed until it accelerates. It has 70,000+ miles.What could this be? What should-could be done for this concern.
View 3 RepliesMy '02 Elantra would have a hard time starting up in the winter right after I filled the gas to full. Usually I would have to give it some gas to startup. After that, it didn't have problems starting up until I filled it again. This was only in the winter.
About a month and a half ago, it became really slow to accelerate. Since the O2 sensor light had been on constantly for a long time I never bothered to check it. Soon the car became really slow to accelerate and would lunge forward in spurts. The error codes I got were P0133 and the O2 sensor. I replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug wires, and this seemed to do the trick. The check engine light went away, the car sped up nice and quick. Also at that time, I put in some fuel injector cleaner.
The a couple weeks ago, P0133 and P0420 came back. It seems like the car is using up more gas than it should. There is a very minimal sluggish response when I push the gas. I have a spare ignition coil, but trying to find what it could be more specifically before I swap out more parts willy nilly.
Whenever I slow down for a car to turn or accelerate after a stop sign the ice cold air goes away and is replaced by warmer air but then it never turns back cold. Only when I kill the engine and start back up does it return. I just had the Freon refilled and there are no leaks.
View 3 Replies