Ive had my new Phaeton just over three weeks and have ha to take it back to the dealer with a slight wheel wobble at high speed, I gather the geometry on these is quite complex and the alignment is usually done on all four wheels. Interestingly however the dealer diagnosis is for four new tyres, obviously this is under warranty, but it seems strange to have to fit four new tyres on a brand new car!
View 6 RepliesSo I have been running squared 12.5mm spacers with correct length lugs. I recently traded with a friend in the front from my current 10mm's, up to the 12.5mm's and back down to my 10mm. I noticed at speed that I was getting a pretty steady vibration at 80mph. I think it has something to do with me not tightening my lugs all of the way down, buddy thinks they're backing themselves out.
I pulled them today in the rain to just stock lug bolts and everything feels 100% better. I want to return to my spacers that I have never had issue with before but I'm worried about losing a wheel and dying at high speed. Problem with loose lugs causing vibration even though the first and second time I check that they felt pretty tight?? Or should I just snug em really good to see when I put them back on...
Note they are ecs tuning 10mm hubcentric with good matching lugs.
Driving back from Florida yesterday i noticed a slight grating sound when turning right at highway speeds ( 75 -85 mph). I noticed it particularly when driving through the mountains in West Virginia .
What it might be ? The car is very quiet (no radio on) and I am sensitive to road noises etc.
When I apply the brakes moderately at speeds between 60 mph and 80 mph, the brakes pulses and the car shakes. If I press harder, the intensity gets worse shortly and then disappears the harder I press. The front steering wheel does not shake so I believe it is the rear brake or wheels. This problem started after I changed the rear VW brakes rotors and rear VW pads and changed all four wheels with remanufactured VW Phaeton wheels. The issue must be with the wheels,brakes, or lug nuts. The tires have not been changed but they are fairly new from what I can tell. The front rotor and pads was changed by the prior owner and I've never had issue with them, they are fairly new and look to be OEM.
Prior to reinstalling the new wheels, I cleaned the rust off of the front rotor surface that makes contact with the wheel and applied high temperature paint. One of the wheels I had a run in the paint (and there is no way I can make the paint 100% the same thickness) so perhaps this has slightly misaligned the front wheels to the rotors.
When I did the brake job, I cleaned the driver side rear hub of surface rust prior to installation of the rotor. I did not clean the hub on the rear passenger side because the hub and wheel bearing was changed a few months prior. I did snap the plastic for the speed sensor for the abs on the rear passenger side. I epoxied the plastic back together and have no ABS errors when the car is scanned. Everything was torqued per VW recommendations. I also checked the calibers sliding mechanism (for left to right movement if rotor slightly warped or out of true) and they moved freely and was not locked up. The only part of the job that was not 100% by the book is I used a hand made tool to push the pistons in on the calipers so I could install the pads (I had to push and turn the piston roughly at the same time but was not 100% at the same time because the tool was hand made).
I've had the wheels professionally rebalanced balanced at a tire shop with a fairly modern balancing machine (digital computer flat screen readout). Originally the wheels was balanced with an older balancing machine and when they rebalanced it it was noted the wheels was way out of balance. I had a bad steering wheel shake and the car vibrated significantly prior to the new balance. The shaking improved greatly with the rebalancing but I could still feel a subdued shake in the seat of my pants (steering wheel shake is gone). Yesterday, I retorqued all of the lug nuts and found the driver side rear and passenger side front had one loose lug nut. Also it appeared that the lug nuts may have been installed with an impact driver and probably not torqued because some were very tight. I used a dial gauge to check both the rear tires and I have about 15-20 thousands of movement in each wheel when rocked side to side and top to bottom. Prior to tightening the lug nut on the driver rear, I had 100 thousands of side to side movement. Car now runs much smoother (maybe not as good with the original wheels and brakes but pretty good) after retorquing all the lug nuts, but the same 60-80 mph pulsing / shaking happens when apply the brakes at speed, perhaps even worse.
I've also checked the rear rotor and wheel runout with the dial gauge and I didn't have anything over 4 thousands on the rotor or wheel when rotated. My jig for the dial gauge was not the best since it was hand made and was attached to the ground instead of the car, so any dial gauge measurements could be off, but I would think they tolerances would be even better if I had a proper jig mounted to the car (not floor). The only thing that I haven't replaced is the lug nuts. Tightening them did seam to change the brake pulse behavior for the worse but did make the car run smoother. Could it be possible that the lug nuts are stretched and this is producing the behavior I'm seeing? I've head the ABS can cause a shake if the speed sensor is damaged.
I'm the loving owner of an amazing '02 RSX. She is just about to hit 100K, and has been completely trouble free. This past sunday, I started it up in the morning and immediately noticed a semi-harsh vibration, with high idle speed (1500ish, normal is 500). If I give it gas, the vibration and rumble noise goes away, but if it put it in reverse, it seems to get worse. After a few miles of driving, the idle speed returns to normal and seems to feel/sound fine. Also of note, if i hit a dip in the road, i get a vibration and engine sound that resembles that of a flat tire. I know this sounds random, but it's the best I can do at describing it. There are no check engine lights, temp is fine, and otherwise seems to be driving great. I initially thought bad spark plug or air filter, but have since thought of vacuum pressure or O2 sensor, maybe even an engine bolt break (from the sound it makes driving into a dip). Could this be as simple as getting a bad batch of gas?
View 3 RepliesI have a 05 Touareg V6. When coming to a stop (when speed reaches 5 mph or less) there is a slight vibration felt in the steering wheel. What causes this? What can I do to correct this? (I had new rotors and brakes put on about 2K miles ago.
View 1 RepliesCar now unexpectedly jumps to high fan speed when first started. Doenst matter what the temp is set to or if it was previsouly on Auto or Manual when last shut off. Did I change some custom setting? or has a gremlin appeared after so many years and care free miles? (05, 78K)
Its not a big deal but rather is annoying to get in and hear that immediate rush before I can turn the dial down.
Need to replace at least one rear wheel bearing, but still not positive which side. Getting a whump whump whump and slight howl at speed that seems to be worse going around right turns, so will change the drivers side first.
View 3 RepliesI drove our 2007 Prius (79K miles) the other day and noticed a whirring or slight grating noise whenever I loaded up the left front wheel (by steering right) at speed. It's far from a hum or a howl at this point.
View 14 RepliesMy 2004-V8 has developed some creaking sound that seems to come from both front wheel wells when going at low speeds. Going over bumps does not produce them but hard braking and corners tend to produce them. My suspicions are either brakes or steering. Had all the suspension bushings done about a year ago and the dealer did not tell me about worn steering parts. Steering tracks well and suspension is taught. Vagcom shows nothing as this most likely is completely mechanical or even structural.
View 2 RepliesMy brakes were terrible and finally got roders and pads for front yesterday ... well the pad on passenger side was like not there anymore almost metal on metal and driver side was not close to being that bad but like driving down road there was a slight hi pitch tick that only occured when steering wheel was slightly tilted left (counter clockwise).
We redid front pads and roders (did bad not to long ago) and now there a terrible rubbing sound and it only occurs when again wheel tilted left or making a left hand turn cant figure it out thought it was the wire clip to hold caliper in place but that's clearing rim .... it sounds like metal on metal and driving me nut was driving last night and after awhile it did go away but i have feeling it going to happen again when i drive it today ...
I have a 95 Toyota Celica GT which started making a noise today. It does not seem to increase when the engine is revved. The crankshaft pulley seems to have a slight wobble, belt feels tight, does not appear worn. Does not matter if AC is on or off. No performance issues. I'm thinking harmonic balancer replacement.
View 1 RepliesWhat is the procedure for replacing the fan clutch on the water pump? Mine has a slight wobble when running and I started to pull everything apart but got stuck when I couldn't see how the fan and clutch disconnects from the water pump. It's a '94 4 liter XL extd body...
View 14 RepliesI have a 2010 Corolla with 32K miles and I hear this humming or low groaning rotational noise that seems to get louder with faster speeds over 40 mph. If I turn to the right above 40MPH around a curve in the road, I hear it a lot louder and it oscillates in and out. What it is? I had it checked at the Toyota dealer and they said there was no issue with the wheel bearing but since the noise is still there today, I think I have to take it back. Is this something I could troubleshoot with the car parked?
View 14 RepliesI have an 05 Camry LE & when ever I'm on the highway going around 50-80mph & need to break my steering wheel starts to shake until I either stop or put my foot back on the gas. Last year my power steering rack & one of my motor mounts got replaced, & for awhile it stopped & figured because that was going out that's what was causing it.
Well about a month later it started back up & still does it, I've taken it to the dealership & have told them & they test drove it, felt the same thing I felt but didn't find anything. Is there anything else that could be causing it ? Earlier last year my bearings were lose in the front, and I managed to get my brakes stuck & had that all fixed & since then that's when it started shaking . I took it back to that shop & mention every time I go in for oil changes at my dealership, is there something else I'm not aware about that I should ask them to look at ?
I purchased the truck from a used car lot about 3 months ago and after driving for a few thousand miles I am feeling a slight wobble after hitting a bump in the road. Here is my truck set up:
- 2011 Ford Lariat F250 4X4 FX4 6.7 ltr
- 67400 miles
- Tires stock and great tread
- Rancho steering stabilizer kit
- Rancho Shocks
- Rear air bags
It does appear one of the rancho stabilizer dampers is leaking slightly. Why would the previous owner install a rancho stabilizer kit? Is it because of the rear air bags?
My wife drives a 2010 Honda Civic LX sedan with about 18k miles. She mentioned that its steering wheel started shaking a couple of weeks ago when driving at about 60 miles/hour at the same streth of the road during her daily commute. She did experience the problem during rest of her drive at lower speed. I drive the car about once a week at lower than 45 miles/hour and had no problem. I have checked the tires and noticed nothing obvious.
View 1 RepliesIf the front rotors are warped would I not feel it when braking anytime and not just braking hard at high speed?
View 2 RepliesLately my 2007 GX470's steering wheel has a shaking/vibrating problem whenever I apply the brake at speed above 50 mph or so. Without braking or with braking at slower speed, there is no problem at all -- everything is glass smooth.
1. I assume the front brake rotor is warped?
2. Will I need to change the rotor or is there a way to fix the warp (it that's the problem) without changing the rotor?
3. Approximate part & labor cost?
I plan to bring to dealer for a check up but would like to know ahead of time what to expect.
I purchased a set of new LTX MS2 tires back in October and a week ago a got a nail on the right front tire, specifically the side wall so they couldn't fix it so they replaced the tire with a new one. Now when I step on the brakes at 60 mph, the steering wheel vibrates. Can the new tire be causing that? I looked at the weights and one set of weights is taped kind of crooked, can the balancing cause it too?
View 14 RepliesI got an 04 GLI ... When I'm driving at about 60 mph, and I apply the brakes lightly, i get a vibration in the steering wheel. it doesn't happen under heavy breaking, just when i press the pedal down lightly to slow down, and there is NO pulsation in the pedal at all during any time.
Some history of the car:
Just did pads and rotors 2 weeks ago,
car has spacers, hub centring.. the problem occurs with out the spacers also.
had an alignment a month ago.
had tires balanced 2 months ago
tires are 2 months old.